Introduction
Use this guide to replace the button control cable in your iPad 9 Wi-Fi.
Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.
The button control cable has the lock button and volume buttons integrated within it. You’ll need to replace the entire cable if any of those buttons are malfunctioning.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
What you need
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the iPad for two minutes.
-
-
-
While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
-
Front camera
-
Antennas
-
Display cables
-
Ambient light sensors
-
-
-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
-
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
-
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
-
-
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
-
Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
-
Skip the next step.
-
-
-
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
-
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
-
-
-
Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
-
Slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the iPad for two minutes.
-
-
-
Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.
-
-
-
Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes.
-
-
-
Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the corner before moving to the next step.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
-
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
-
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
-
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.
-
-
-
While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
-
Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
-
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
-
Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
-
-
-
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
-
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.
-
-
-
Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
-
Remove the buffer block.
-
-
-
Remove the front panel assembly.
-
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.
-
-
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the rear camera for thirty seconds.
-
-
-
Use a spudger to pry the rear camera out of the frame.
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the rear camera.
-
-
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the sensor.
-
-
-
Peel the right ambient light sensor towards the right edge of the device, enough to access the screw behind it.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.3 mm-long screws securing the lock button bracket.
-
-
-
Use your fingers to pull the power button bracket out of its recess.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the volume button bracket to the rear case.
-
-
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the volume button bracket away from the device's edge.
-
Remove the volume button bracket.
-
-
-
Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to push the volume buttons out of their slots in the rear case.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the button control cable for thirty seconds.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the upper volume button.
-
Insert an opening pick between the volume control cable and the upper volume button.
-
Peel the volume control cable off of the upper volume button.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the power button bracket.
-
Insert a halberd spudger or opening pick between the power button bracket and the button control cable.
-
Peel the button control cable up and off of the pegs on the power button bracket.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 9 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 9 Answers community for help.
