7.9 inch display / Model A1454 / Available in black or white / Announced October 23rd, 2012 / 16, 32, or 64 GB capacity

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Problem with the LCD after replacement

Hello, Guys.

Pleaseeee help me.

4 months ago my iPad mini (16gb, GSM, 1ST Gen) fell and broke the glass digitizer and completely smashed the back. So what did I do? I bought a new digitizer on ebay and a new back housing, because the original was badly damaged too. The most difficult situation was to remove the motherboard and the battery, because the two are stuck together by a super adhesive. So... after almost 24 hours straight removing piece by piece for the new housing I fully reassembled the iPad, but apparently I had done something wrong because the LCD was showing only half of the screen. One week later the entire screen faded. I thought "Oh maybe I pulled too hard and because of that the liquid crystal broke". So, I made another purchase: a new LCD Display. When the part arrived, it was very simple. I took the LCD flex and put the new one, but nothing happened! Not appear absolutely nothing on the screen. The iPad seems to work, because I can hear the sounds of charging. Here in Brazil, technical assistances are very poor, unreliable, and most do not know what to say. But I was desperate and took the ipad at a Technical assistance in my area. The technical used a lcd that he had there and also gave no sign of life. Then he said "I can not do anything. Maybe you damaged the motherboard when switched the parts" and only that. No other place around here wants to try to fix if maybe it involving welding (or soldering). But I know some friends who do micro soldering on iphones and other gadgets, but they do not know what to do to try to fix the iPad. Can someone give me a light? I'm completely lost. And I have no money to buy another ipad. Here, an iPad mini GSM 16gb costs more than USD 700.00. As you can see, my English is not good. So apologize me for the grotesque grammar errors above. PS: This is not a backlight error as I had seen here on the forum. The backlight problem displays some picture at least but super dark, in my case, nothing appears, none any kind of picture.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits

6 Answers

Check all of the connections and clean them if possible. there may be a connection issue check and make sure there are no breaks scratch or dents anywhere that seem out of the ordinary and see where the adhesive lies and make sure everything you took off was just adhesive.

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Thank you for trying help me. I checked and there is no scratch or dents. :( The 'technical' said he cleaned all the motherboard and nothing happened. He also said that "the motherboard is bent or warped. It is not completely straight" But now I looked again it is totally right.

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Is it possible for you to put up some pictures of the iPad board and LCD so I can take a look?

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Of course. Tonight or tomorrow morning I'll upload the pictures. Tnx again!!! =)

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We will figure this out together my friend :) I am always on here so I will do my best to help.

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As I said to Jessa below, Thanks for trying to help me. (I updated my question with the pictures requested)... I'm very confused with technical languages, I am a newbie who does not understand anything about it :D. About the backlight trouble, literally nothing appears on the screen. Today a curious thing happened: another technical told me he tested with various displays and nothing happened, but when he used an original LCD display from another ipad he says it worked. I have not seen the ipad yet, he called me just now. Now he is charging me a fortune for this new display: Something like USD 300. :O Have you ever heard of something like that? That only the original display works? =/

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You may want to check the LCD connector on the board and see if any of those pins are warped or damage.

To confirm this is not a backlight issue, have you attempted to check the LCD under an extremely bright light after pressing the power button? If no picture than this is likely not backlight issue, but there is no harm in confirming.

Sometime, cheap mini replacement digitizers manipulate the backlight or the power of the iPad. If you remove the digitizer, on the back of the home button flex cable there should be two components which control the smart cover on/off feature. They can wreck havoc if missing.

Also, have you attempted unplugging everything, then plugging everything back in, plugging the battery in last? Try that as well.

Let us know!

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As I said to Jessa below, Thanks for trying to help me. (I updated my question with the pictures requested)... I'm very confused with technical languages, I am a newbie who does not understand anything about it :D. About the backlight trouble, literally nothing appears on the screen. Today a curious thing happened: another technical told me he tested with various displays and nothing happened, but when he used an original LCD display from another ipad he says it worked. I have not seen the ipad yet, he called me just now. Now he is charging me a fortune for this new display: Something like USD 300. :O Have you ever heard of something like that? That only the original display works? =/

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It is going to be backlight.

You had an image produced after your install = install was successful. (The fact that it was a half screen is because LCD was cracked--this is very common).

You have no image after trying to replace an LCD----this is classic trigger for the incredibly common iPad mini backlight failure. I fix these by the dozen and sometimes it is hard/impossible to see the faint apple. Don't worry about that---this is a backlight problem for sure.

To confirm---find the backlight fuse from one of the many posted photos. Set your multimeter to continuity testing and place a probe on either side of the component---you may need to solder on some straight pins in order to get the probes to be able to not touch anything else. If the fuse is the problem there will be no continuity across the fuse.

You may also have damaged the backlight diode---set you multimeter to diode testing and measure across the backlight diode---it should show infinite resistance in only one direction, and something like 150-200 ohms in the other direction. If infinite resistance in both direction = need to replace.

jessa

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Thanks Jessa for trying to help me. To be honest, I'm very confused with your technical language, I am a newbie who does not understand anything about it :D. About the backlight trouble, literally nothing appears on the screen. Today a curious thing happened: another technical told me he tested with various displays and nothing happened, but when he used an original LCD display from another ipad he says it worked. I have not seen the ipad yet, he called me just now. Now he is charging me a fortune for this new display: Something like USD 300. :O Have you ever heard of something like that? That only the original display works? =/

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Tell the guy 'no' on the new display--that is ridiculous.

Your first step with any repair on any device is to turn the device off and on.

On the iPad mini, you have to do a special "hard reset" to make it turn off and on. Press and hold BOTH the top power button and center home button for 10 seconds---this will force it to reset.

If you don't see an image with a known working LCD, then it is backlight problem. "literally nothing appears on the screen" ==can be backlight.

If a guy is able to get your display to light with some LCD, then it will work with any LCD--there is no special 'original' LCD. That is crap.

Go find out what your international shipping flat rate is---it may make more sense just to send it up here to New York for a fix rather than pay $300USD--that is crazy talk.

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Jessa, you are totally right! It's the backlight problem! I went there to take back my iPad and all he said was bullshit. He didn't even tested the iPad with an "original" LCD, I asked him to show me my iPad working and he said "I saw on internet that only genuine display work but I don't have one to test, give me the money and I'll buy one" ridiculous!!! He thinks I am a fool! I took my iPad and tried to clean the motherboard, when I reassembled now I can see with very difficulty an image of my locked screen, but no light. Jessa, could you please help me with "easy" instructions to resurrect my iPad? Thank you so much and again sorry me for my poor English.

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Fixing a backlight problem in an iPad mini is only easy if you have the right tools and experience.

I see dozens of mini's where someone with normal soldering experience thought 'how hard can it be' and attempted to jump the backlight fuse---it sounds simple--just a teeny blob of solder to connect the two ends of the fuse and done.

The problem is that there is really tight clearance at the fuse with the other components. Conventional soldering iron tips are huge when soldering on this scale. It is incredibly difficult to avoid getting solder on the neighboring components---and this will cause a bigger problem.

My advice---if you can't find someone with a microscope and a 0.2mm soldering iron, then you're better off sending it out for repair--even if you have to send it Internationally.

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Jessa, Do you work with this? Do you have a kind of Technical assistence? If you do, please, tell me a price and I will send it to you. If you don't, please recommend me a trustable place. I will really appreciate!!!! :)

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Hi, also have had missing backlight on some laptop panels which are very similar.

Most computer shops just change the panel at this point because it is either bad LEDs, bad driver IC, bad fuse on the panel or a combination of all three.

I've fixed one or two but usually it pretty obvious that some of the diodes are weak or burned out.

Re. your ipad, I would try and get some 40 gauge (ultra thin) tin/lead solder and the thinnest bit you can find.

A thermally controlled iron that can handle at least 360C would be handy because the solder on these is RoHS and a pain to deal with especially on 0402 SMDs or smaller.

The thin copper strands from a piece of welding cable or for that matter headphone wire might be thin enough to get a good contact.

If you are really stuck I can try and send some, have a good stock here that gets used for repairs (once did a chip transplant on a broken pendrive!)

Also worth inspecting the board in case a fragment of glass or debris got into the connector or severed traces near it, the backlight trace is only one pin on these.

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can you send me some

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Sounds like you installed the wrong lcd. Make sure you bought the correct lcd for your ipad mini model. Ipad mini 1.0 LCD is NOT the same as ipad mini 2.0 LCD, however, it is rumored that you can use and ipad mini 2.0 lcd with and ipad mini 3.0

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I have an ipad mini 2 and installed an ipad mini 1 LCD and its not working. Could the "wrong" LCD be the issue as to why its not working?

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Can someone share with me instructions on how to change the lcd flex?

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