Video Overview

Introduction

Around here it's all about gadget guts. With VR becoming all the rage, we couldn't wait for a little Vive-section. What does HTC have hiding right before your eyes? Strap a black box to your head, 'cause we're about to find out! It's time to tear down the Vive.

Looking for more virtual fun? Follow us on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook for all the latest repair news.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your HTC Vive, use our service manual.

It's been a long time coming, but 2016 seems to be the year when virtual reality finally becomes an actual reality. How does it work? Well, here are the specs: Two 1080p AMOLED displays with a combined resolution of 2160 x 1200 90 Hz refresh rate
  • It's been a long time coming, but 2016 seems to be the year when virtual reality finally becomes an actual reality. How does it work? Well, here are the specs:

    • Two 1080p AMOLED displays with a combined resolution of 2160 x 1200

    • 90 Hz refresh rate

    • Built-in front-facing camera and microphone

    • Accelerometer, gyroscope, and laser position sensor

    • 360-degree headset tracking via Lighthouse IR emitters

    • 110º horizontal field of view

  • This all compares pretty favorably—or in some cases, identically—with the Oculus Rift CV1 we tore down a few weeks ago.

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After unplugging ourselves from the Matrix the four headset cables, we spy the headset's model number: 0PJT100. We also spot a standard 3.5 mm audio jack, DC barrel jack, and a single HDMI port flanked by two USB 3.0 ports. Interestingly, HTC left the rightmost USB port open for third-party accessories.
  • After unplugging ourselves from the Matrix the four headset cables, we spy the headset's model number: 0PJT100.

  • We also spot a standard 3.5 mm audio jack, DC barrel jack, and a single HDMI port flanked by two USB 3.0 ports.

    • Interestingly, HTC left the rightmost USB port open for third-party accessories.

  • Bottoms up! We flip the Vive and go eye-to-eye with the front-facing camera. This unblinking cyclops also provides AR for the Vive. What's it running on? Let's get inside and find out.

I like how they just start with the cable entrance cover off with no explanation whatsoever of how that comes off at all. &&^&^$^ !&&*.

fischjeanpaul - Reply

That's because this a teardown/hardware analysis—not instructions. However, if memory serves, the cable cover removal is explained in the owner's manual. You simply push/slide it toward the front of the headset, and then you can easily lift it open.

Jeff Suovanen -

Also would like to know before I snap something off my $800 headset while installing the wireless upgrade kit.

David - Reply

my vive headset cable is not working when i play headset gets switched of instantly kindly help in resolving this

asad ali - Reply

First to go is the interchangeable foam insert, velcroed to the headset for our convenience. We peel back the velcro to reveal a hidden message. Who're you callin' wide face? Huh?
  • First to go is the interchangeable foam insert, velcroed to the headset for our convenience.

  • We peel back the velcro to reveal a hidden message.

  • Nestled in a nook between the eyepieces is a proximity sensor that detects when the Vive is actually on your face—presumably to shut off the displays, conserving power and processor resources.

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Cog-zooks! We've got our gears turning as we remove the eye relief adjustment on the Vive headset. Not to be confused with IPD, this adjustment actually controls the distance from the headset's optics to your eyes. The Rift CV1 doesn't have this feature, probably because its asymmetric lenses allow you to adjust focus by simply pushing the headset higher or lower on your face. Is this confirmation of a different approach to optics in the Vive? Only more teardown will tell.
  • Cog-zooks! We've got our gears turning as we remove the eye relief adjustment on the Vive headset.

    • Not to be confused with IPD, this adjustment actually controls the distance from the headset's optics to your eyes.

  • The Rift CV1 doesn't have this feature, probably because its asymmetric lenses allow you to adjust focus by simply pushing the headset higher or lower on your face. Is this confirmation of a different approach to optics in the Vive? Only more teardown will tell.

What size torx?

Jameswh - Reply

The Torx screw is a T6.

Nicholas Halderman - Reply

When you reassemble the eye relief mechanism, there’s an important protrusion on the gear wheel (center piece in the third photo). The center gear is raised on a smooth circle; there’s a small protrusion on this circle that acts as a stop. It’s barely visible at the 3 o’clock position in the third image here, and in about the 1 o’clock position on the second image. The socket it meshes with, visible in the second image, has a corresponding raised ridge that limits the wheel to only a half turn overall, just enough to get it from the minimum relief setting to the maximum. When you’re reassembling it, it’s best to slide the piece to the minimum eye relief setting (since gravity will keep it there) and align the protrusion with the bottom edge of the ridge in the socket. If you don't pay attention to this and just slap the thing together, you’ll have a reduced range of eye relief adjustments.

Nicholas Halderman - Reply

We can't help but experience a little déjà vu as we unmask our latest subject. Pulling back the outer shell on the Vive reveals a number of sensors—32 in total, according to HTC. These photodiodes take in IR light from the two Lighthouse base stations as they flash and sweep  light across the room. This enables a connected PC to calculate the headset's position and orientation in space as a function of the time between receiving the flash and the following IR laser sweep.
  • We can't help but experience a little déjà vu as we unmask our latest subject.

  • Pulling back the outer shell on the Vive reveals a number of sensors—32 in total, according to HTC.

  • These photodiodes take in IR light from the two Lighthouse base stations as they flash and sweep light across the room. This enables a connected PC to calculate the headset's position and orientation in space as a function of the time between receiving the flash and the following IR laser sweep.

    • This method is the exact opposite of the head-tracking technique found in the Oculus Rift. In the Rift, the desk-mounted camera tracked the IR emitters in the headset, whereas in the Vive, the headset sees light from the mounted IR emitters without actually "tracking" its location.

Pulling back the shell is considerably easier said than done. If you can stick a spudger under the front just above the midline, you can break the grip that some glue has on the shell, which makes it much easier to remove. I got pretty nervous pulling these sections off, given the array of delicate ribbon cables hiding under them.

Nicholas Halderman - Reply

A closer look at the outer shell reveals that each divot on the surface holds a small IR filter.
  • A closer look at the outer shell reveals that each divot on the surface holds a small IR filter.

    • These IR windows give the photodiodes beneath a clear view of the lights and lasers emitted from the Lighthouse base stations.

    • More on those later.

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With the outer sheath removed, we flip the switch on a few ZIF connectors to disconnect the IR photodiode webbing from the motherboard. For those of you keeping score, everything thus far has been super standard and easy to take apart. It seems that this apple fell especially far from the tape-and-glue tree. After deftly dispatching a hidden press connector behind the front-facing camera, the whole sensor array lifts off. Easy peasy.
  • With the outer sheath removed, we flip the switch on a few ZIF connectors to disconnect the IR photodiode webbing from the motherboard.

    • For those of you keeping score, everything thus far has been super standard and easy to take apart. It seems that this apple fell especially far from the tape-and-glue tree.

  • After deftly dispatching a hidden press connector behind the front-facing camera, the whole sensor array lifts off. Easy peasy.

  • Hiding in the back of the assembly, we find a couple spring contacts that deliver power to the whole setup—and behind that swath of copper tape, the camera.

The sensor array is held on by 13 phillips screws: 8 around the perimeter (see the brass inserts in the third photo), one dead center, and four sort of half way between the corners and the center. The ones around the perimeter are accessed from the lens side of the headset; the other five are accessed from the sensor shell side. There are also two plastic tabs to press down while removing it; these are at the bottom, near the microphone. You can barely see them at the bottom of the third picture. When you are looking for the perimeter screws on the lens side of things, there will be two phillips screws visible near these tabs--these should *not* be removed at this time. The perimeter screws on the bottom are further out. There are only two perimeter screws on the bottom to remove now.

You will not be able to remove the press-fit connector until the plate is partly removed, so be careful while you lift it off. It should come gently; if it doesn't, you've missed a screw or tab.

Nicholas Halderman - Reply

You also should not yet remove the two screws on the top of the lens side that are slightly further out than the ones connecting the shell. The ones you need to remove on the top side are quite far forward; the ones you do not are roughly on the same plane as the near side of where the cable covering clips on.

The screws you need to remove at the sides on the perimeter are quite recessed, behind the sensors that stretch back from the front shell. There are indentations in the plastic near these screws to accommodate your screwdriver, which should help you find them.

Nicholas Halderman - Reply

With tweezers in hand, we pluck the front-facing camera out of the Vive. Manufactured by Sunny Optical Technology, it reads: TG07B C1551 That name might sound familiar. We've also seen Sunny camera modules in the OnePlus One and Project Tango phones.
  • With tweezers in hand, we pluck the front-facing camera out of the Vive. Manufactured by Sunny Optical Technology, it reads: TG07B C1551

  • Working our way around the sensor net, we note that each of the sensors is individually numbered (photodiodes 18 and 19 in the photo).

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We have liftoff—of the motherboard, that is. Let's see what sort of silicon is lurking beneath those huge heat EMI shields. On the front side of the board: STMicroelectronics 32F072R8 ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller
  • We have liftoff—of the motherboard, that is. Let's see what sort of silicon is lurking beneath those huge heat EMI shields. On the front side of the board:

    • STMicroelectronics 32F072R8 ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller

    • Toshiba TC358870XBG 4K HDMI to MIPI Dual-DSI Converter (Also found in Oculus Rift CV1)

    • SMSC USB5537B 7-Port USB Hub Controller

    • Alpha Imaging Technology AIT8328 SoC With Image Signal Processor

    • Cmedia CM108B USB Audio SoC

    • Micron M25P40 4 Mb Serial Flash Memory

    • Micron N25Q032A13ESE40E 32 Mb Serial Flash Memory

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Even more chips on the front:
  • Even more chips on the front:

    • Texas Instruments TPS54341 Buck Converter

    • Texas Instruments TS3DV642 12-Channel Bi-Directional Multiplexer/Demultiplexer

    • Cirrus Logic WM5102 Audio Codec

    • Pericom Semiconductor PI3EQX7841 USB 3.0 Repeater

    • Lattice Semiconductor LP4K81 A3311RG2 Ultra-low Power FPGA

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Bringing up the rear, we have:
  • Bringing up the rear, we have:

    • Nordic Semiconductor nRF24LU1P 2.4 GHz SoC (x2)

    • NXP Semiconductors 11U35F ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller

    • Lattice Semiconductor ICE40HX8K-CB132 High-Performance FPGA

    • Invensense MPU-6500 6-axis Gyroscope and Accelerometer Combo

    • Micron N25Q032A13ESE40E 32 Mb Serial Flash Memory

    • National Semiconductor 61AE81U L00075B Linear Voltage Regulator

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Next out: the midframe that housed the motherboard. Clinging to its side we find a small ribbon cable that plays host to the headset button. A closer look at the midframe reveals a slot for the little black nub on the back of the left display panel. This slot allows the nub to peek through and slide along that white Teflon strip, activating a linear potentiometer, used to track IPD position as you adjust the displays.
  • Next out: the midframe that housed the motherboard. Clinging to its side we find a small ribbon cable that plays host to the headset button.

  • A closer look at the midframe reveals a slot for the little black nub on the back of the left display panel.

    • This slot allows the nub to peek through and slide along that white Teflon strip, activating a linear potentiometer, used to track IPD position as you adjust the displays.

  • Ready to go deeper, we remove the twin lens-and-display assemblies from their housing and peel off the rubber light-gasket from around the lenses.

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Open! Close! Open! Close! Speaking of interpupillary distance adjustment, here's the mechanism that makes that possible.
  • Open! Close! Open! Close!

    • Speaking of interpupillary distance adjustment, here's the mechanism that makes that possible.

    • It's a simple threaded rod with a slider at the top. It couldn't be simpler, really—just give it a twist.

    • We saw something similar on the Oculus Rift CV1—although the Rift packs a more sophisticated (and more complicated) dual rack-and-pinion system.

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After adios-ing four Phillips screws and doing a little investigative prying, we lift away the display cover for access to one of the twin Samsung-branded AMOLED panels. Each display measures ~91.8 mm diagonally, which translates to ~447 ppi. For comparison, the Rift CV1 has ~456 ppi due to a slightly smaller display (90 mm) that still packs the same resolution as the Vive. Each display measures ~91.8 mm diagonally, which translates to ~447 ppi. For comparison, the Rift CV1 has ~456 ppi due to a slightly smaller display (90 mm) that still packs the same resolution as the Vive.
  • After adios-ing four Phillips screws and doing a little investigative prying, we lift away the display cover for access to one of the twin Samsung-branded AMOLED panels.

  • Each display measures ~91.8 mm diagonally, which translates to ~447 ppi. For comparison, the Rift CV1 has ~456 ppi due to a slightly smaller display (90 mm) that still packs the same resolution as the Vive.

91.8mm diagonally but can we get exact measurements including the chamfered corners and the height and width of the active area too?

Aaron Shelham - Reply

A bit of adhesive secures each lens, but it doesn't take much to pop them out. We note a set of concentric rings in each lens—the familiar indicator of Fresnel lenses. Unlike the hybrid lenses we encountered in the Oculus Rift, the Vive's lenses appear to have a uniform contour. It seems that HTC opted to control focus through adjustment of the eye relief.
  • A bit of adhesive secures each lens, but it doesn't take much to pop them out.

  • We note a set of concentric rings in each lens—the familiar indicator of Fresnel lenses.

  • Unlike the hybrid lenses we encountered in the Oculus Rift, the Vive's lenses appear to have a uniform contour. It seems that HTC opted to control focus through adjustment of the eye relief.

  • Etched right into the side of the lens, we find the smallest QR code we've ever seen. Despite our best efforts, we can't get it to scan.

What is focal length of lens?

alexmartian - Reply

Are the lenses glass or plastic?

Anna Morales - Reply

With the headset completely disassembled, it's time to move on to the controller. A quick inspection reveals the model number: 2PR7100. The Vive is manufactured by HTC, but it's quite evident that Valve had plenty of input on the design process. The controller touchpad is very reminiscent of the ones we found on the Steam Controller. In addition to the touchpad and buttons, the controller comes packed with 24 sensors (including two inside the ring!) that allow it to accurately track the its position based on the two Lighthouse base stations.
  • With the headset completely disassembled, it's time to move on to the controller. A quick inspection reveals the model number: 2PR7100.

  • The Vive is manufactured by HTC, but it's quite evident that Valve had plenty of input on the design process. The controller touchpad is very reminiscent of the ones we found on the Steam Controller.

  • In addition to the touchpad and buttons, the controller comes packed with 24 sensors (including two inside the ring!) that allow it to accurately track the its position based on the two Lighthouse base stations.

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A few Torx screws and some tough plastic clips keep the outer case and IR filters shut tight, but it's nothing we can't handle. As we work our way down the controller, we find a ribbon cable booby trap, à la iPhone 5s and iPhone SE. Trap defused,  we pop open the handle and take a closer look.
  • A few Torx screws and some tough plastic clips keep the outer case and IR filters shut tight, but it's nothing we can't handle.

  • As we work our way down the controller, we find a ribbon cable booby trap, à la iPhone 5s and iPhone SE.

  • Trap defused, we pop open the handle and take a closer look.

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After removing the touchpad assembly from the controller, we immediately notice that the daughterboard is near-identical to the one found in the Steam Controller. Just like before, the touchpad is driven by a Cirque 1CA027 companion MCU. As with the Steam Controller, the PCB also features seven well-labeled test points that make it easy to directly interface with the board for testing.
  • After removing the touchpad assembly from the controller, we immediately notice that the daughterboard is near-identical to the one found in the Steam Controller.

    • Just like before, the touchpad is driven by a Cirque 1CA027 companion MCU.

  • As with the Steam Controller, the PCB also features seven well-labeled test points that make it easy to directly interface with the board for testing.

  • Up next is the 3.85 V, 3.69 Whr, and 960 mAh Li-poly battery. After giving it a good looksee, we spot the model number B0PLH100, and a large QR code.

Hello! I would like to know that spring brings the touch panel controller htc please lives , I think I have some broken !

I can not press as a whole, not if it leads dock or some other type of mechanism.

http://i68.tinypic.com/eai7fb.jpg%5B/IMG...

Sergio - Reply

Something I'd like to point out for other users.. you have broken the haptic feedback function of your controller. The tiny ribbon cable coming off of the silver box on the back of the touchpad powers it. It's very easy to do if you're not careful and is nearly impossible to repair, so a warning in here might be nice.

Evellyn Hoskins - Reply

There are a few common chips between the controller and the headset, as well as a few new ones: NXP Semiconductors 11U37F ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller
  • There are a few common chips between the controller and the headset, as well as a few new ones:

    • NXP Semiconductors 11U37F ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller

    • Lattice Semiconductor ICE40HX8K-CB132 Ultra-low Power FPGA

    • Invensense MPU-6500 6-axis Gyroscope and Accelerometer Combo

    • Micron M25P40 4 Mb Serial Flash Memory

    • National Semiconductor 61AKE6U L00075B Linear Voltage Regulator

    • TI BQ24158 Battery Charger IC

nRF24LU1P in the metal box?

Marc Pignat - Reply

What on-board is responsible for creating the power on/off beeps and can those be accessed?

Tim Lobes - Reply

Any information about

Tact switch?

I have to replace it but

dont know which size

or model I have to buy.

nucrifle - Reply

With the headset and controllers torn asunder, we move right along to one of the Lighthouse base stations. What secrets does it hold? Let's find out! Firing up our IR camera, we get a glimpse of the internals through the IR-transparent front panel—an array of bright IR LEDs, and a pair of motorized lasers make the Lighthouse shine bright. While the Rift works with an IR camera and some fancy machine vision software to follow the Constellation IR LED array, the Vive uses an entirely different system for position tracking.
  • With the headset and controllers torn asunder, we move right along to one of the Lighthouse base stations. What secrets does it hold? Let's find out!

  • Firing up our IR camera, we get a glimpse of the internals through the IR-transparent front panel—an array of bright IR LEDs, and a pair of motorized lasers make the Lighthouse shine bright.

  • While the Rift works with an IR camera and some fancy machine vision software to follow the Constellation IR LED array, the Vive uses an entirely different system for position tracking.

  • Each Lighthouse flashes its IR LED array, signaling the start of a cycle. Vertical and horizontal lasers then sweep across the room, and all of those fancy photosensors on the headset and controllers start looking for lasers.

  • The tracked headset or controller can then determine its position based on the order its sensors receive the laser sweeps.

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Time to crack the Lighthouse open and check how the system matches our science. The base station sports the model number 2PR8100 as well as a Class 1 Laser Product regulatory label. This rating means that the IR lasers contained inside the base station are within the maximum permissible exposure rating established by the CDRH. In other words, the lasers can be shined on the eye or skin with a negligible chance of damage.
  • Time to crack the Lighthouse open and check how the system matches our science.

  • The base station sports the model number 2PR8100 as well as a Class 1 Laser Product regulatory label.

    • This rating means that the IR lasers contained inside the base station are within the maximum permissible exposure rating established by the CDRH. In other words, the lasers can be shined on the eye or skin with a negligible chance of damage.

  • With a trusty iOpener and opening pick in hand, we quickly dispatch a few clips and some sticky gasketing that secure the base station's front panel.

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The front panel removed with relative ease, we prepare for the harrowing task of extracting the complex internals from this optical tech marvel. Aaaand we're done. Lucky for us, the whole unit is installed as a single assembly within the Lighthouse base station housing. Just remove the four Torx screws, and it falls right out.
  • The front panel removed with relative ease, we prepare for the harrowing task of extracting the complex internals from this optical tech marvel.

  • Aaaand we're done. Lucky for us, the whole unit is installed as a single assembly within the Lighthouse base station housing. Just remove the four Torx screws, and it falls right out.

  • With the cover off, we get a look at the array of IR LEDs and spinning motor-mounted laser emitters, as well as a single IR photodiode that allows the device to sync up with its counterpart.

I was wondering whether you know the wavelength of the IR-lasers?

simonpelle - Reply

Let's shed some light on what sort of chips are powering the Lighthouse: NXP Semiconductors 11U37F ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller
  • Let's shed some light on what sort of chips are powering the Lighthouse:

    • NXP Semiconductors 11U37F ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller

    • National Semiconductor 61AFCXU L00075B Linear Voltage Regulator

    • Broadcom BCM20736 Bluetooth Smart SoC

    • STMicroelectronics ST1480AC Transceiver

    • Texas Instruments TLC59284 16-Channel LED Driver

    • Texas Instruments SN74AHCT595DBR 8-Bit Shift Register With 3-State Output Register

Less than 24 hours into owning a VIVE and refining the setup, one of the base stations became unresponsive. Turns out while 'improving' the mounting position I had also pressed the channel button next to the power jack, and it had gotten stuck in the down position. A little prying with a pushpin got the button back up so the base station will power up, and all seems to work fine - but the needle marks on the button probably will offend any warranty.......

vbob - Reply

All of our repair wishes are coming true today! Each laser motor mounts to the Lighthouse emitter assembly via four T5 Torx screws, and connects to the motherboard with a single ZIF connector. Nidec may not be a household name, but we've seen their DC motors before powering fans in the Xbox One Kinect, as well as the Mac Pro Late 2013. These particular motors read: B2044N01.
  • All of our repair wishes are coming true today! Each laser motor mounts to the Lighthouse emitter assembly via four T5 Torx screws, and connects to the motherboard with a single ZIF connector.

  • Nidec may not be a household name, but we've seen their DC motors before powering fans in the Xbox One Kinect, as well as the Mac Pro Late 2013. These particular motors read: B2044N01.

  • With the Lighthouse parts laid out for inspection, this teardown is adjourned.

ndtec is a japanese Electric machinery manufacturer

vere - Reply

oh, about 20 minutes ago i was playing the Vive game called`Holoball, which warns you the straps sometimes break when playing this "racquetball" type game, and they did break as i let loose of the controller in a power swing...and flung rather hard against the wall in the room. now it doesnt recognize. still play some games requiring only one controller but would like to see if i can fix it. you think a hard impact on the wall would permanently damage something in there or with opening it up and looking for issue a big waste of time. found this site on the web..what a great resource for tons of things. never knew it existed.

Rocky Power - Reply

The HTC Vive Repairability Score: 8 out of 10 (10 is best): Although it's a complicated bit of kit, the headset breaks down readily and without damage. The head strap and face pads are removable and don't incorporate any sensors or electronics that might be prone to failure.
  • The HTC Vive Repairability Score: 8 out of 10 (10 is best):

    • Although it's a complicated bit of kit, the headset breaks down readily and without damage.

    • The head strap and face pads are removable and don't incorporate any sensors or electronics that might be prone to failure.

    • Standard Phillips and Torx screws are used throughout the headset, controllers, and base stations.

    • Reuse of the touchpad hardware from the Steam Controller means some replacement components are likely already available.

    • The large number of components, many of them quite delicate, means you'll want a service manual before attempting repairs.

    • Adhesive is used sparingly, but secures the lenses, Lighthouse base station covers, and sensor arrays.

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67 Comments

Please let us know if you will be tearing down the headset connector cable as well. Thanks.

nixyrus - Reply

It might be important to note that removing the face plates or even touching the motors breaks the factory calibration and will produce tracking errors in the future. Currently there is no way for the consumer to re-calibrate the sensors.

Jose - Reply

I'm hesitant to agree that merely exposing the sensors "breaks" tracking. I (very carefully) disassembled one of the controllers to re-seat a loose haptic motor and notice no difference in tracking accuracy or precision. The controller may be offset by some minute, imperceptible amount but it hasn't produced any problems. I think you would be fine attempting minor repairs with the appropriate amount of caution.

Michael Stinton -

@ Michael Stinton, That's a controller... he's talking about the HMD itself.

Jason Elmore -

This seems doubtful, as merely picking up the base stations causes the laser motors to visibly jiggle and rotate. At any rate, we reassembled our Vive after the teardown and it seems to be working fine. I can't swear there are no tracking errors as there were occasional glitches when we first unboxed it and there are occasional glitches now—but for whatever it's worth, I can't tell any difference.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu Alan Yates, the creator of the lighthouse tracking system: "About 50 micron, yes they are post-assembly calibrated. Dismantling invalidates the calibration, so you should not remove the front covers unless you really need to. There is a small chance you can get it back together close enough you won't notice for the HMD and controllers, but the base station is more sensitive. If you unscrew the motors from the frame or touch the lenses it will need cleaning and recalibration to track properly." Parent link: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4...

I may have exaggerated a little, but the multitude of Reddit tracking wobble threads and experience with my own Vive indicate the lighthouse system may be more fragile than it looks. The motors' own vibration produces tracking wobble, I wouldn't recommend touching the motors and possibly adding to it. In practice it's not very noticeable, but look at your screen vibrate when you put the headset down.

Jose -

What's in the link box?

AJ Henderson - Reply

I was hoping I'd learn more about whether eye relief could be reduced even more than what is possible stock. My friend, who wears glasses, was able to use the closest setting just fine (i.e. no need to create more clearance). I don't wear glasses. When I've removed the foam surround and placed the Vive to my face I've noticed the BEST image -- least blurriness / largest sweet spot and widest perceived FOV. It's not comfortable to do this with the straps on but someone modded a nightmask as an even smaller foam surround than the Wide Face (stock) one. It shows that getting those lenses even closer to naked eyes could have benefits.

Anyway, it seems A) there's room between the lenses and my eyeballs and B) getting the lenses closer would be beneficial. I was wondering if they erred on the side of caution (with regard to glasses wearers) with the eye relief adjuster but that the chassis could actually handle less distance. Maybe a plastic tab artificially governing how close you can get the lenses?

Thoughts?

Kevin White - Reply

The problem is your eyes not the hardware. Go to the dollar store and get a couple pair of cheep reading glasses is various strengths. Note that many people need different corrections right and left. Once you determine which lens works best for each eye order a set of glasses from an online prescription glasses place. Be sure to get the anti-reflective coating.

Modding your new toy to is a bad idea.

Dave Adams -

See this thread for a mod that replaces the foam gasket with some thin material from a sleep mask:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4...

Mechanically reducing eye relief doesn't appear to be possible without heavy physical warranty-ruining modification.

Michael Stinton -

Dave Adams, I have very good eyesight, but thank you. The Rift, for example, is quite clear. Why do you think the closest distance the lenses can currently go is the optimum? Why do you think that's the optimum for all faces?

Michael Sinton, yes... I mentioned that when I wrote "someone modded a nightmask as an even smaller foam surround than the Wide Face (stock) one." But I suppose you're right about the heavy / breaking mod. It's just a shame. The screens / optics can clearly do with being closer and there's clearly enough room to move them closer (as evidenced by my glasses-wearing friend having plenty of room even at the closest position).

Maybe something will get figured out at some point. I think there's some additional clarity and perceived FOV wideness waiting to be unlocked while using the stock comfy surround pad.

Kevin White -

See this video I had made with similar concern. It is not using stock , but there are options while you try to sort out more risky mods.

https://youtu.be/bY9eEG9efpw?list=PLBeUk...

GameMaker04 -

According to my experiments with paint.net, the QR code translates to "3YVA-60320-36130"

Rich Woods - Reply

QR Code on Lens: 3YVA-60320-36130

Edit: Rich beat me to the punch by 4min. So, consider this confirmation of his results.

Patrick Hall - Reply

Bugger, an hour late even!

I guess confirmation 3 for the QR code, with proof: http://imgur.com/jiRh3Iw

Ethan Palmer - Reply

What about the module you didn't open in the controller? What secrets does it hold?

Seems like something connected to an antenna :)

Body Double - Reply

Step 22 says that the lasers are spinning with the motors, but aren't they actually shining along the axis of the motor and hitting some sort of mirror?

Note in second photo of step 24 that there are what I'm guessing are laser diodes mounted co-axially opposite the motors, and that the top view of the motor barrel looks hollow. It would make sense to do it this way there is then no need to get power to a spinning component - the spinning part is entirely passive.

Steve Baines - Reply

I reconstructed the lens QR code. It decodes to the text string '3YVA-60320-36130'

Mathieu Morissette - Reply

Any chance of a mechanical drawing of the lenses?

adrianhcyuen - Reply

You didn't open the link box thing, the one with 3 cables coming out both sides. I'm interested to know what's inside. Also I think it would be valuable to comment on how easy/hard it is to obtain equivalent third-party replacements for the base station and link box power bricks. It appears at first glance that they all use the same power brick delivering the same output, which is very sensible.

dcipub - Reply

Glad it wasn't just me who decided to have a go on that QR code, 3YVA-60320-36130 it is.

jonathansmith2410 - Reply

Which is heavier and by how much Oculus of Vive

macman1519 - Reply

I also managed to get 3YVA-60320-36130 with my mad excel skills.

zeeZ - Reply

How can this have a better score than the Rift, when it has twice the internal parts and complexity? What about the dozens of ribbon cables and sensors on this thing??? You didn't take those off... <_<

nipponnights - Reply

How about some more science time digging into the differences in the panels? We know they're different sizes, can we get a good look at the sub-pixels with a magnified picture of each displaying a white background?

Andrew Bakke - Reply

"This rating means that the IR lasers contained inside the base station are within the maximum permissible exposure rating established by the FCC. In other words, the lasers can be shined on the eye or skin with a negligible chance of damage."

This is incorrect, MPE is set by the CDRH a division of the FDA, not the FCC

Frank Echanique - Reply

Whats the model SKU number on the screens. Curious if we can replace them on our own if we get dead pixels

GameMaker04 - Reply

This is great, one of my controllers trackpads came in defected on arrival. So I'm planning to take apart my controller to figure out what's wrong with it.

gnathen w - Reply

How did this turn out? Did you manage to repair your controller? The system button of mine does not respond anymore and i am thinking about opening it up... as soon as i get my hands on a T5 xD

Roland Hof -

My cat bit into the hdmi side of the 20 foot hdmi cable i replaced it with the short 3 foot one that goes to pc from breakout box and used a normal hdmi from pc to breakout box wow had a signal again now heres the problem its only 3 feet long Now i found a 15 footer hdmi cable from home depot thatwould fit into vive headset it would not work. My question is are the hdmi cables with the vive a special made propietory cable please help

Jeffery F Wright - Reply

You have to purchase what is called an Active HDMI cable. These are the ones that we use in our studio: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ultr...

harveydesu -

Hi! I have a question. I would like to use the sensors only, as a positioning system for a drone. To minimize weight, how much of the controller could actually be stripped off for it to still work? How much does it weigh when stripped down? Thanks for a great article!

georgio - Reply

Is the touchpad a single button? It seems to be based on the pictures. I ask because I can't get a button press when I press down on the right side of one of my controllers. It would be an easy fix if it is because it would just be a plastic piece.

Hugh Van Auken - Reply

Same issue here. Would love to know the part number for the button under the track pad

patholdenchicago -

I believe Himax Technologies supplies this: Two 1080p AMOLED displays with a combined resolution of 2160 x 1200

Can anyone verify this?

Richard Smatt - Reply

You expected they would use other than Samsung panels?

Young -

Curious. I have a nonworking HMD and a working one with a dead pixel. Does the sequence above represent the exact steps until you get to the screen portion? Or can you shortcut to just the screen? I ask as I would like to replace the screen from the non working HMD with the dead pixel screen of the working one but would rather want to avoid mucking around with all those ribbons and sensors in case I pooch something. I realize this may void the warranty thus me asking up front!

Apshai - Reply

I'll bet a few bucks they never got it back together or working again.

jack smith - Reply

Hey Jack! It's actually fully working..Job Simulator is a ton of fun on it:D

Geoff Wacker -

Turn down for what!

rogermorac -

I'll bet they never got it together again or working.

jack smith - Reply

We actually did! And the whole process didn't seem to throw off the calibration too terribly—Job Simulator and Valve’s The Lab still run perfectly.

Evan Noronha -

Yep, we've actually taken it completely apart three separate times. Still works great!

Jeff Suovanen -

I, too, thought I'd be terribly clever and unique and solve the QR code without checking to see if it had already been done. 3YVA-60320-36130.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2dLMc...

Matthew Ewer - Reply

lightbase motors seem to be breaking a lot - mine already gave up twice, any idea where can I get replacment motors?

Leszek Grzyl - Reply

Salut, on peu changer les lentilles je pense non ?

mxvrinfo - Reply

Do You know the type and Wavelength of the lasers and leds ?

captainjeffo - Reply

Are you sure this is the LED? The LED in my base-station looks similar, but it’s not an exact match.

mcmayer -

and lasers also at 850 nm wavelength ....

captainjeffo - Reply

Laser diode replacement?? 850mn and ......mw??????? Thanck you

assobaio -

What is focal length of lens of headset?

alexmartian - Reply

Laser diode replacement?? 850mn and ......mw???????

assobaio - Reply

What no linkbox?

morphemes - Reply

Hi! The camera plastic cover of my Vive came broken. I already contacted HTC but I wanted to know if its possible to remove it somehow and replace it.

Thanks in advance!

Felipe Cabargas - Reply

Kudos for the DIY spirit, but if your brand new Vive arrived broken, you should probably just let HTC handle it.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have a hive bought second hand with no receipt. Unfortunately one of the oled screens has a pixel constantly stuck on (orange) in the bottom right which is then blured slightly due to the lens i think. Is it possible to purchase a replacement oled screen to repair?

Jason - Reply

where can I find a replacement Proximity sensor with ribbon. fell for the booby trap and torn mine. HTC aren't being very helpful.

Chris Thorley - Reply

Need help, guys!

Where can i find display (Samsung AMS361EP-01)?

My friend faceplanted on my HTC Vive T_T

kintush777 - Reply

Is there a ribbon cable in the headset that might come loose and cause no display in left eye... but right eye and tracking working fine?

Teresa Selling - Reply

Is there a trick to opening the two halves of the shell? Mine doesn't want to pull apart.

Teresa Selling - Reply

It’s a bit tricky. You definitely need a more substantial tool that the pick he used (imo). I have a cell phone repair tool kit and it has quite a stout, but thin/non sharp metal pry tool. I started at the bottom and torqued slightly, the clips will give away. In their video it shows each side sliding off. It will only do that when all the clips are released. It wasn’t terribly bad, you just need to work that seam and start on the side they started on in the video…I did. From there, the other side also releases from clips and lets go. I got the entire unit apart undamaged. Friend of mine has a nephew who spilled something all over it and it’s dead. I’m going to do a cleanup inside, then reassemble and hope for the best. I don’t see anything obvious, other than some connections that are fouled by the dried drink substance. Hoping to get lucky.

RC000E -

There is one important omission; you need to remove the bottom cover of the photodiode array in order to reach three additional torx screws. This finally allows you to remove the handle’s top cover.

hachidori106 - Reply

What are the size specs on the controller screws please. I need to replace them. sizes of both he long and short torx screws. or a link please? thanks?

michael christmas - Reply

hi,

Which plastic material is used for molding htc vive controller parts.

kondiparthy dheeraj - Reply

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