Introduction

Use this guide to replace a malfunctioning power and volume button cable—this includes the switches responsible for volume up and down, the ring/silent control and the power switch, as well as a microphone and the dual-LED flash. Follow this guide if you are looking to replace the exterior power button cover and this guide for the exterior volume control button cover.

Opening the iPhone 7 will damage the waterproof seals on the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals, your phone will function normally, but will no longer be water-resistant.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will damage its waterproof seals. If you do not replace the seals, your phone will no longer be water resistant.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Cooper Chase - Reply

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/1: Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.
  • Lay the warm iOpener over the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.

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Image 1/2: Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass. Image 2/2: Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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Image 1/3: Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. Image 2/3: The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside. Image 3/3: The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

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Image 1/3: Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Image 2/3: Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Image 3/3: Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
  • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

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Image 1/3: Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Image 2/3: Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Image 3/3: Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
  • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

  • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

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Image 1/3: Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Image 2/3: Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place. Image 3/3: Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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Image 1/2: '''Do not raise the display more than 10º''' as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board. Image 2/2: '''Do not raise the display more than 10º''' as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

  • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone. Image 2/2: Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
  • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Image 2/3: Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Image 3/3: Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

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Image 1/1: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the following tri-point Y000 screws from the lower connector bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

Steve - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the lower connector bracket.

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Image 1/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Image 2/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Image 3/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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Image 1/3: To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. '''Do not''' press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage. Image 2/3: To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. '''Do not''' press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage. Image 3/3: To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. '''Do not''' press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

One of these connectors is for display and one is for home button/touch ID. I was disassembling one that was having touch id issues and found this smaller flat cable was torn but longer one was not....display and touch worked perfectly on the device.

Stephen Elliott - Reply

Image 1/3: Remove the bracket. Image 2/3: Remove the bracket. Image 3/3: Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

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Image 1/2: This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending. Image 2/2: This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Press to eject the tray. Image 2/3: This may require a significant amount of force. Image 3/3: Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

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Image 1/2: One 1.3 mm screw Image 2/2: One 2.5 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the camera flash cable connector.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the upper cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

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Image 1/2: Three 1.2 mm screws Image 2/2: One 1.7 mm screw
  • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the top left antenna.

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Image 1/1: One 1.3 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • You can remove these using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit, but a small slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch.

    • During reassembly, you can use the tip of a spudger to get the standoff screw started.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

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  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Thee 2.2 mm standoff screws

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

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Image 1/2: Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board. Image 2/2: Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

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Image 1/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Image 2/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Image 3/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
  • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the vent.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

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Image 1/3: Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Image 2/3: Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less. Image 3/3: The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

  • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

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Image 1/1: Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.
  • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

  • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

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Image 1/2: [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|Prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer. Image 2/2: After about a minute, remove the iOpener, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.
  • If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, remove the iOpener, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Avoid bending the battery. Damage to the battery may release dangerous chemicals, and could start a fire.

    • Do not pry under the top third of the battery, you may damage the volume button ribbon cable.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the battery.

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Image 1/2: Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button. Image 2/2: Three 2.3 mm screws securing the volume buttons.
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.

    • Three 2.3 mm screws securing the volume buttons.

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Image 1/2: One screw beside the rear-facing camera Image 2/2: One screw on the rear case
  • Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws:

    • One screw beside the rear-facing camera

    • One screw on the rear case

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Image 1/2: This action  will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case. Image 2/2: This action  will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.
  • From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger.

  • This action will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the ambient light sensor cable to the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the ambient light sensor cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

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Image 1/2: Remove the ambient sensor cable. Image 2/2: Remove the ambient sensor cable.
  • Use tweezers to move the ambient light sensor cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case.

  • Remove the ambient sensor cable.

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Image 1/1: You can remove these using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit, but a small slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch.
  • Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.

    • You can remove these using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit, but a small slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the flash bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone. Image 2/3: Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone. Image 3/3: Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.
  • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case.

  • Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal. Image 2/3: Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal. Image 3/3: Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.
  • Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable.

  • Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.

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Image 1/3: Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Image 2/3: Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Image 3/3: Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.
  • Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable.

  • Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the power and volume control cable.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Scott Havard

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