Introduction

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 6s Plus LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also reference this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - Reply

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - Reply

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen -

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - Reply

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - Reply

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen -

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

Martin Speedy - Reply

When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - Reply

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - Reply

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - Reply

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - Reply

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - Reply

  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - Reply

  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - Reply

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

  • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - Reply

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - Reply

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - Reply

  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - Reply

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

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  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - Reply

To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

Christa - Reply

Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

Tom -

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Shiva Sharma - Reply

I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

Tom - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - Reply

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - Reply

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - Reply

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

Jason Engelsman - Reply

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

Jason Engelsman - Reply

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - Reply

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - Reply

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

Maybe this should be totally obvious, but it took me a minute or two to realize that this step is performed on the DISPLAY ASSEMBLY that was just removed, rather than the main body of the phone, which is the part on which all the previous steps were performed.

Tom - Reply

The new display came with a 1.9mm screw installed (the top left one above). This must be removed before putting back the home button bracket. It took me way too long to realize why I couldn’t thread the old screw back into the hole.

Brandon Mathew - Reply

  • Remove the home button bracket.

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  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable from its connector on the display assembly.

Gently: this piece is attached to the plastic cabling, not the surface of the phone

Christa - Reply

  • Using your fingertip, gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

    • The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate.

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  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the lightly-adhered home button flex cable off the display assembly.

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  • Remove the home button assembly.

Make sure you remove any broken glass from around the button edges. Took me a few times to realize it had some glass on it.

johnarchitzel - Reply

  • Remove the following three Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.7 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

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  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the FaceTime camera out of its housing.

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  • Pull the FaceTime camera back and remove the earpiece speaker.

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  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor from its housing in the front panel.

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  • Insert the pointed tip of a spudger between the microphone flex cable and the front panel to break the adhesive holding it in place.

I’m pretty sure I made a mistake at this point by applying a heat gun to soften the tacky adhesive. I suspect that the molded plastic lens on the camera became hot and the antireflective coating on it cracked all over. Under a microscope it looks messed up. The result is that the camera is now blurry. So be careful with applying heat.

tcnewell - Reply

  • Use the flat tip of a spudger to lift up the microphone and earpiece gasket.

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  • Remove the FaceTime camera and sensor assembly.

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  • Remove the seven 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the display EMI shield in place.

    • The screw on the far right in the first photo is recessed about 1.8 cm from the edge of the display.

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  • Remove the EMI shield from the front panel.

So, this guide is garbage right here. There is no mentioning the home button connector, wich holds the bottom of the EMI shield in place. You can not remove the shield if this is not loosened. You also need to heat it or the cable will break. I now have to buy a new heat shield since my cable broke thanks to this guide

Albert - Reply

  • Front panel remains.

  • The Touch ID function will ONLY work with your phone's original home button assembly, so you'll need to transfer the home button assembly from your old display assembly to your new display assembly to retain Touch ID.

  • After reassembly, clean the touchscreen surface with an alcohol wipe prior to turning the iPhone back on. The alcohol helps dissipate any lingering static electricity, which can cause problems with the display.

  • After reassembly, connect the iPhone to an AC power source before turning it on for the first time. Once the iPhone has booted up successfully, you can disconnect the AC power.

Step 39 shows front panel display with connector for Touch-ID female receiver for Home-button attached to the metal plate. How do you remove and transfer that component to new donor screen?

Robert Rutty - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

89 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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8 Comments

with the new update, how do I avoid bricking my phone. i read an article that said if a non authorized apple person attempts to fix my phone the phone will be bricked. iphone 6 plus firmware 4.52.00 update 9.2.1.

Josuee Lara - Reply

I believe you are referring to the Error 53 bug which has since been fixed. Initially, it was caused by people attempting to update their iPhones with a Home Button other than the original factory-installed unit—the update would pause halfway through and the iPhone would be bricked.

This guide involves transferring your original Home Button to the new display, so that's not an issue in this situation, but if you were to use a new Home Button, you would still be safe since Apple's issued a fix for Error 53.

Evan Noronha -

Whats the reasoning behind letting the AC charger turn the phone on and not the power button?

Rob Blank - Reply

My iphone 6s plus was water damaged and I've been told that I only need to replace the screen as the parts are still in good condition. My question is in this case do I have to replace only the front panel or the full display assembly?

Mariam - Reply

You left out the part about loosening the home button connection wich are attached to the large heat shield. If it is not carefully heated and removed it will break and you will not have a home button to use. Should be step 37

Albert - Reply

I've performed this without using the ‘iOpener’ by carefully peeling with a spudger (step 26) as directed. It worked fine.

In response to comment Sept 17 from Albert, I did not have an issue during steps 36-37. Not sure what that comment is about. Unless it was confused with steps 26-27 having to do with the removal of the touch ID/home button. Again, I did not use heat to loosen the adheshive. I did have a warm rice bag (poor man’s iOpener, just a cloth bag with dry rice in it, warmed in the microwave at half power…) on hand in case it felt like not releasing easily. From what I found disassembling an iPhone6S Plus that’s over a year old is all the cable adhesives (top and bottom of phone) were ready to release with very little effort.

Side/screen adhesive lifting from the case proved to be the most challenging. This is due to the original damage, left side bracket that connects to EMI shields was broken on the phone. Be careful when separating if damage is extensive!

Sean Finney - Reply

Thank you for another thorough repair guide! With each repair, I am gaining confidence and competency that makes each repair that much faster. I just finished a bare display replacement in just over an hour on an i-Phone 6S Plus!

Peter Bovey - Reply

Hi Evan and thanks for your guide!

I’ve broken only the glass but if I’ve understood correctly, the glass is not separable from the retina screen right? So I’ve to buy a new glass/screen and follow this guide to replace every pieces except the retina screen cause is already installed in the glass (like this).

Many thanks

Giuseppe

ballone.giuseppe - Reply

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