For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone’s LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - Reply

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - Reply

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

lionno1 - Reply

  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Reply

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Reply

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - Reply

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - Reply

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

Michael Magor - Reply

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!



Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - Reply

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - Reply

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - Reply

Me too! Be gentle!

Matthew Simoenau -

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - Reply

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - Reply

  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - Reply

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

Kevin - Reply

  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Add Comment

  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Add Comment

  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - Reply

  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Add Comment

  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

lionno1 - Reply

  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Add Comment

  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - Reply

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - Reply

  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Reply

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - Reply

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - Reply

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - Reply

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - Reply

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - Reply

I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

Alex Mufatti - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

Add Comment

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Reply

  • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - Reply

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Reply

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - Reply

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Reply

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - Reply

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - Reply

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - Reply

  • Remove the three 1.7 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

  • Do not over-tighten these screws as these can damage the front of the display.

When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

amadscientist - Reply

When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

John Livingston - Reply


Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

Mario Di Stefano - Reply

When i assembled my new homebutton, I couldn’t mange to make it work properly. The screws, as described earlier, had to be adjusted but even this wasn’t enough. Once I put the iPhone case together and tightened up the screws it would push the metal cover all the way so the button wouldn’t click. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Now it wouldn`t press the button anymore and the paper keeps everything in place until fully reassembled.

max - Reply

  • Lift the lower edge of the home button bracket until it clears the small peg on the right side.

  • Slide the bracket out from under the EMI shield to remove it.

You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the home button connector by popping it out of its socket on the back of the display panel.

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

Sam Decrock - Reply

You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

Bryan Solo - Reply

Thanks, Bryan this helped a lot.

Antonio Gomez -

When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything.

Anyway, phone won’t even power up now (I put it back together hoping that I could navigate around the interface somehow without home button).

New home button assembly on order from iFixit.

John Matz - Reply

  • Gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

    • The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate.

What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best.

Todd Strack - Reply

I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. Short-term probably nothing bad will happen; long-term, I’d guess you might have higher risk of contamination or corrosion on internal components.

Jeff Suovanen -

The video shows the the tech heating the bottom at this so it releases easier. I heated mine with a hair dryer. Came off fine.

Patrick Egan - Reply

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to pry the home button flex cable off the back of the display panel.

Add Comment

  • Remove the home button assembly.

If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

John Livingston - Reply

  • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

    • Two 2.3 mm screws

    • One 1.3 mm screw

are you sure it's long, short, long. From what it looks like, it's long, long, short.

garegin - Reply

Yup, you're right! We've updated the guide accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.

Evan Noronha -

  • Lift up and remove the earpiece speaker bracket, peeling up the bracket gasket as you go.

  • Peel up the gasket carefully, as it is thin and can tear easily.

I temoved the gasket while changing screen. What does the gasket actually do? Is it necessary?

Atte Veijola - Reply

Also removed gasket while replacing screen. The phone is now in a startup loop. It won't turn on while unplugged- when plugged to wall outlet, it starts to point of displaying Apple logo then restarts. Could this be a cause?

foibuls - Reply

Gasket thing literally does nothing. Couldn't get it back on properly so I peeled the flimsy thing off. No issues with my phone at all.

Jaspal Goshal - Reply

Gasket does not seem to have any connection or logic. I just let it be when I could not fit it. Worked fine.

Niklas Magnusson - Reply

Isn't the gasket some sort of water resistant seal?

Nick Stine - Reply

Gasket always breaks during reinstalling but so far no negative effects.

Steve - Reply

I couldn’t fit the gasket back around the metallic piece it surrounds. It run short and I couldn’t reach the bracket screw hole with the gasket screw hole so I left it loose. Everything seems to work fine. But I guess it is there for some reason so I am a bit uneasy….

Homero - Reply

I’ve never gotten this rubber piece on without it ripping . I’ve never had a problem with the operation of the phone upon reassembly. I wouldn’t worry about it.

mcr4u2 - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the front-facing camera from its housing.

It took me a while to realize this while reassembling, but my replacement screen didn’t have a “housing” for the front-facing camera. I finally spotted a clear plastic piece in the broken screen, which provided a circular collar that was the camera housing. I was able to take it out and snap it into the equivalent spot on the replacement screen.

Richard - Reply

  • Pull back the front-facing camera to access the earpiece speaker.

  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

Can I replace the iPhone 6s earpiece speaker with my phone iphone 6? The newer earpiece speaker seems more advanced.

Yaser 777 - Reply

I have the same question. They look like the same speaker. Are they compatible?

The Wizard - Reply

The problem might not be the earpiece speaker! I replaced mine and had no improvement in quality. After reviewing forums, I suspected the earpiece screen was dirty/plugged. I disassembled the phone again, removed the earpiece speaker, carefully scraped and poked at the earpiece screen until a flashlight revealed the holes were clear. After a quick reassembly, playback of a voicemail verified full volume has been restored. Since you’re in there anyway, whether the problem is the screen or the speaker, clean the screen and replace the speaker.

toddniehaus - Reply

  • Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.

Don’t forget the little white rectangular light diffusing (I assume) mat that goes between the ambient-light sensor and the screen if your replacement doesn’t have it!

Brian Seavey - Reply

  • Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.

Add Comment

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently break up the adhesive securing the microphone to the front panel.

Add Comment

  • Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

iPhone 6s microphone has a small rubber speaker gasket attached to it. not shown in this picture

Jeremy Hudson - Reply

  • Remove the following seven 1.3 mm Phillips screws:

    • Three screws each on the left and right edges of the display panel.

    • A single screw recessed 1.5 cm from the right edge of the screen.

What's the deal with these particular screws? I have found them much much harder to remove than the equivalent screws on any previous iPhone model. Am not sure if it's the head groove shape or if they are just secured very tightly. More than once I have ended up completely ruining the head grooves without getting them out. Any tips?

Lars - Reply

Lars, I have no idea why these are so stubborn, but I agree with you 100%. When removing these guys, I usually set the screen vertically on my work surface so the screws face straight up, then apply as much pressure as I possibly can to ensure the driver head doesn't slip even once. 90% of the time I bend the metal clips a little bit, but that usually doesn't matter to me since the new display has new clips.

Evan Noronha -

I had such a probem with one on each side closest to the home button.... Unfortunatley I used wire cutters to remove the screw completly. The assembly was not effected nor the functionality of the phone.

Jaredrett - Reply

When reassembling, I'd hold off on assembling the EMI shield until after the home button shield is reinstalled--just hold off on the one screw that installs both. This eliminates having to try to finesse the home button shield underneath the EMI shield, and also makes it easier to get the three connector tongues at the camera/earpiece/speaker end in the correct order for reassembly.

David Shaddock - Reply

As you apply pressure on the screw it bends the clips in slightly binding the screws, I found placing my thumb nail on the back of the screw to counter the pressure required to screw them in/out prevents the binding and they glide right out.

Dan Scheive - Reply

“1.5 cm” Needs to be changed to 1.5mm

Ben Meinhart - Reply

Mr. Meinhart. 1.5 cm is right as it refers to the distance from the edge of the screen to where the screw is. It does not refer to the size of it.

nelsongilm - Reply

These screws are 100% impossible to remove. I have applied as much pressure as I can without completely destroying the component but nothing has worked. I know I have the correct size driver too. This is beyond frustrating. The 4 screws that are left in are now stripped. Any ideas would be very appreciated.

Cody Fridley - Reply

On two of these I have stripped the head out because Apple over-torqued them at the factory. Now I have to either cut the whole clip off or else take it to the garage and use a tiny drill bit to try and drill the head off the screw. Surely nothing will go wrong when a 10-amp drill touches the screen, right??

maxarre - Reply

Note the the screw that is 1.5cm from the right is smaller in diameter than the other 6 (it is the same length)

Chris Hammerton - Reply

I used WD40 on these damned screws and it helped. Putting the screen vertically on the edge of the table while removing them also helped.

Supa tamraksa - Reply

  • Prepare an iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the phone to loosen the tape connecting the EMI shield to the front panel.

  • After a minute, insert an opening pick between the tape and display data cable.

  • Push the pick downwards until it is flush with the upper edge of the EMI shield.

The 6S I was working on didn't have any adhesive under it and the EMI shield came off easily.

David Shaddock - Reply

This explanation is terrible. The pictures are terrible. There seem to be two layers to the heat sheild. What needs to be removed? One or both??!!!

mamashannon4u - Reply

On my phone there was a second piece of tape like in step 38 below. Peel this up ,move onto step 38 and u r good to go..

Steve - Reply

  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the piece of tape from the EMI shield, near the front camera housing.

my iphone has a small connector immediately below this piece of tape. it seems to be attached with a little adhesive and I was able to carefully pry it up. peeling up the tape was unnecessary for me

jjinatlanta - Reply

  • Remove the EMI shield.

  • When installing the EMI shield, orient it so that the metal cutout (shown at bottom center) lays over the top of the display cable assembly, while the piece of tape slides behind it.

I was confused by this instruction, and didn't realize until much later that the EMI shield has to keep the display cable assembly down against the digitizer, so you don't see the gold fingers/pcb traces at all when it's installed. I had to remove my EMI shield again and reassemble it, but that ended up being easier because the camera/speaker/ambient light sensor/etc. was already installed and I could get the three connector tails to stick out in the correct order for reassembly.

David Shaddock - Reply

  • Only the front panel remains.

I had some difficulties putting a new screen gasket on. I found this video on youtube which is really helpful . Other than everything works like a charm. Thank you very much iFixit team.

Marc - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

306 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

Member since: 02/05/2015

138,966 Reputation

177 Guides authored


iFixit Member of iFixit


107 Members

6,507 Guides authored


Swapping out the home button/main board flex cable on the iPhone 6 disabled TouchID. I assume it was also digitally signed like the home button. Is this also true of the 3D Touch panel now that it supplies that cable? In short, Is the original 3D Touch panel necessary for TouchID to work or will the replacement 3D Touch panel built into the replacement work?

Joe - Reply

I've had touchID work after replacing the flex cable... I cant imagine there would be a problem with it this year...

Andrew spoelstra -

Does the 6S need the home button flex cable to be moved for touch ID to work like the 6?

John Pampalone - Reply

Nope! The home button flex cable is integrated into the display and cannot be transferred to the new one.

Evan Noronha -

And then on the Iphone 6s the original flex cable hasn't to be moved. Only the button itself because it is paired with the CPU.

revher -

I've been prying for an hour with the pro tech tool kit. I CANNOT get the display up nearly enough to get a spludger under there. is there something i'm doing wrong? yes i've completely removed both screws. Its really hard to pull up with this crappy suction cup whil pushing back on the metal casing...

keyannorth - Reply

Try using a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive holding the screen in place. Once you do that, you can try pulling up on the screen and letting it down 10-20 times in quick succession to incrementally weaken the glue instead of pulling it all up in one shot (although I assume you've inadvertently done this if you've been working at it for an hour).

Evan Noronha -

To anyone else having this issue, try inserting a thin putty knife first, then separate with guitar picks. Just be careful so you don't scrape the housing!

Kyle Gusek -

Work the fingerprint when i chang the lcd ?

Gilfor - Reply

The touch ID seems to be disable with replacement screens. As mentioned above the flex cable is built into the screens this time round so assume this is why.

Robert Hayman - Reply

You can safely swap out the screen without affecting TouchID as long as you are careful to follow instructions and transfer the original home button to your new screen. If your TouchID is disabled afterwards, it's likely because (1) you need to re-seat your cable connectors, (2) you accidentally damaged the home button hardware/cable, or (3) you have a defective replacement screen.

Jeff Suovanen -

This repair guide should be rated "EXTREMELY DIFFICULT"... Better yet, it should be deleted altogether because it's misleading . There's no possible way the authors can guarantee success by following this guide.

I challenge the authors to fix (3) iPhone 6s plus screens I will provide the phones and even pay you to do it. If you can do it, I shove my foot in my mouth. If any of them come back with the Touch ID not working, then you should delete this guide because it's misleading and I know several seasoned repair technicians who have followed this guide and failed.

applerepairshop -

@applerepairshop it is possible you are using low quality replacement parts. We've tested replacement screens in multiple scenarios, and myself and a number of my colleagues have done this repair for friends and family with a 100% success rate (and we've done far more than three). I suggest switching to a new supplier to see if your luck changes.

Evan Noronha -

I cant get the home button scanner to work on any screen but the original one. I've tried 2 screen replacements. All are unresponsive when I do anything requiring touch.

joltheadq - Reply

Hi, I would modify your instructions to emphasize in bold letters that disconnecting the battery is critical. It seems that if you don't you risk turning the phone into a paperweight by lowing the fuse on the mother board.

sbstooger - Reply

Is the EMI shield tape needed? I accidentally cut mine off without thinking I need it

SOBul - Reply

Is 3D-Touch working after replacing the Display?

Hugo Stiglitz - Reply

Keep the original home button

Nick Stine -

Always make sure that you disconnect the battery on the iphone 6s and 6s plus. I have seen many 6s with blown resisters on the either the backlight power rail or the display power. Both of which usually blow the pad off as well making the phone very difficult to repair. If you would like to avoid a data recovery situation make sure to unplug the battery right away. Don't be lazy guys!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Reply

Even using my original home button assembly, Touch ID fails after installing this new assembly. I believe that iFixit's display assembly is of poor quality. This is not my first time doing this sort of repair, and I have been successful in the past. The home button link cable (the one that runs from he home button out the top of the screen assembly) is built into this unit, so there is no way to use the original one for this design as iFixit suggests on other forums. Extremely disappointed - for $50 more I could have just taken my phone to Apple for a replacement, saved myself 5 hours of frustration, and had a working Touch ID!!!

mikerudolph22 - Reply

The quality of the Phillips #000 screwdriver that is supplied with the iFixit LCD Screen and Digitizer kit is not good enough - you are VERY likely to damage (strip) some screws. I am an electronic engineer that likes to tinker, yet I managed to damage 2 screws on the EMI shield. Only reason I damaged only 2 is that I stopped and bought better screwdriver, no more damaged screws after that...

Quality of screen - very good. Touch ID working 100%.

Albert van Urk - Reply

Have just replaced a screen on one of these and the touch ID has worked fine - it was a cheap screen too. thankyou

jason bullough - Reply

I just received a replacement screen. I've transferred the home button, the front camera, the earpiece and everything to the new screen, and now my phone is bricked. It won't even turn on or charge. What could be the issue?

wyuenho - Reply

Make sure your battery is properly connected. If so, see if iTunes recognizes your phone when plugged in to your computer.

Evan Noronha -

It was properly connected, iTunes says it can't access my phone because I had to type in the passcode, but I can't, the screen is dead, and I didn't even hear the startup chime.

wyuenho -

I followed these instructions very strict and was very carefully, but now my home button does not work at all (neither touch id or the button itself) what could be the reson?

Elias Feiner - Reply

My screen replacement came assembled wrong. I have model A1688 iPhone 6S and the box I got says compatible with A1633 AND A1688. However the home button ribbon cable is missing! And the plastic border that should have placements for screws are wrong! How am I supposed to screw it in properly and how am I supposed to use my home button!!

Andrew - Reply

Losing my mind here. I know my hookup is right, but the new replacement screen and digitizer just won't light up. I can see vague traces of the app buttons, and can manipulate them, but just can’t get the darn thing to light up! I have double checked all my micro connection, to no avail. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Will Carney - Reply

when i connect the new display the touch won’t work. And if i reconnect to old display the screen is completly black (but it works since it' reacts when i plug in the charger for example. Someone who knows what the problem might be?

ronja herrlin - Reply

Why can’t I find any Display EMI Shields for iphone 6s?? I can find it for the 6 and the 6 plus but no where is the one for 6s to be found. Please help

Pieter - Reply

@evan thank you for the instructions!

Eliane - Reply

Everithing ok except the 3D touch, it is extremly sensible ¿do you know why? i have had to deactivate it. thanks in advance

jmgonzalez - Reply

thanks! successfully replaced my screen with this guide ;)

Alexander Javier - Reply

A wire from the front panel has broken.

am i able to take it off from my old panel and replace it?

Hdh - Reply

I am so excited to say that this busy mom was able to complete a full tear down and reassemble of battery and display!!Difficult but doable as long as kids are sleeping! It took full concentration on this puppy!

Grace Albright - Reply

If the replace the screen and digitizer will it fix my problem with my screen have lines down it?

Evan Dupuis - Reply

Overall, a fairly easy replacement and decent parts. After having successfully replaced the screen, I noticed that the screen quality is quite different from the original Apple screen. Everything works perfectly fine but I noticed that the screen has a slight bluer hue than the original screen. It also is less bright that the original screen. I used to leave the screen at ~20% brightness throughout the day but now I have to push it to ~50% just to get the same amount of brightness. Another major thing I noticed was that if you are wearing polarized sunglasses, the screen looks like the back-light is not on even though it is. I thought this was very odd but I guess the cheaper parts don’t account for viewing with polarized sunglasses. Now I have to take my sunglasses off to see my screen while walking which is a little bit inconvenient.

Another thing to note is that the screen works fine but doesn’t have the same response time as the original Apple screen. Definitely a bit slower but it works.

ekk1288 - Reply

Thanks for a clear guide and it worked well for me. I found that I didn’t need to heat the adhesive around the EMI shield to separate it - came apart with a little patience. Secondly, be careful how you organise the three display connector cables. It’s easy to get two of them jumbled when reconstructing the camera/earpiece and it’s easy to miss in the pictures.

Dominic Casciani - Reply

What is the purpose of the tape connecting to the emi shield? Same with the tape gasket bracket on the ear piece shield? Do they just hold things in place?

matt.halliday08 - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 166

Past 7 Days: 1,380

Past 30 Days: 5,921

All Time: 222,585