1. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm-long Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

    When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

    Blair Tryba - Reply

    what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

    kristian686 -

    Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

    Howard Bales - Reply

    Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

    For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

    On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

    Maarten Vergauwen -

    Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.

    Linda Chandler -

    I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

    Bailey Wilson - Reply

    Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

    Sam Lionheart -

    See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

    Kenneth Hilstan -

    You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

    Tom Long - Reply

    If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

    Brian Mojica -

    what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

    Brandon Kato - Reply

    I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

    socratesmens - Reply

    The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

    1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

    2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

    I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

    Gary Long - Reply

    Please reconsider this repair!

    Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

    Bruce Coriell - Reply

    I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

    Matt D - Reply

    Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

    “We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

    What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

    Brice - Reply

    Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

    William Miller - Reply

    I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

    I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

    If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

    Megan Telliano - Reply

  2. The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
    • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

    Lisa Klitses - Reply

    Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

    Owen -

    I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

    fiftysomething - Reply

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

      • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

    The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

    Tim Dougherty - Reply

    It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

    marco bigoni - Reply

    Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

    Fratelli '85 - Reply

    Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

    Richard W - Reply

    • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

      • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

    This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

    Erik Madsen - Reply

    You can put clear tape over it. it works.

    Owen -

    Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

    Joanna - Reply

    John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

    TimD -

    Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.


    tombuy - Reply

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

      • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

    lauren carroll - Reply

    Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

    Tobias - Reply

    Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

    Dion Sosa - Reply

    That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

    Megan Telliano -

    Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

    youmingc - Reply

    Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

    Adam - Reply

    The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

    Chet Seidel - Reply

    Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

    Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

    Luke Man - Reply

    I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

    Alan Derrick - Reply

    Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

    scottrell - Reply

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Add Comment

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

      • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

      • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

    It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

    ethanlust - Reply

    Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

    Albert -

    Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

    Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

    SAS - Reply

    This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

    Bruce Fournier - Reply

    My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

    Tony Chicoine - Reply

    same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

    Andrea Andreoli - Reply

    Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

    Adam Carl - Reply

    Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

    The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

    Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

    Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

    Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

    Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

    nigel - Reply

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

    Ryan - Reply

    I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

    dcommins - Reply

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Reply

    I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

    bobcloninger - Reply

    If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

    Larry House - Reply

    Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

    Sherman Homan - Reply

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

    todd adelman - Reply

    I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

    brian - Reply

    Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

    smahar - Reply

    Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

      • One 2.2 mm screw

      • One 3.2 mm screw

    #000 needed here

    David Pobuda - Reply

    ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

    Cory Berends -

    Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

    kupies2011 - Reply

    With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

    Wilson Styres - Reply

    Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

    smcgreg - Reply

    My phone was missing this screw also!

    Gail Starr -

    Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

    smcgreg - Reply

    When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

    Juan Monge - Reply

    I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

    Cavell Blood -

    Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

    Dan Solovay - Reply

    None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

    Elaine Eason - Reply

    I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

    Jameison Martin - Reply

    I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

    Brian Adams - Reply

    Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

    Matthijs Rog - Reply

    Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

    Priscilla Cheng - Reply

    When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

    dhcohen67 - Reply

    why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

    i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

    Michael Amara - Reply

    I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

    Tung-wei Lin - Reply

    My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

    Alastair Lack - Reply

    So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

    My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

    What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

    John Palaganas - Reply

    The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

    Eric Craumer - Reply

    Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

    Jeff Suovanen - Reply

    I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

    Jimmy Doi - Reply

    The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

    Michael Pesenti - Reply

    So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

    Michael Pesenti - Reply

    @michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -


    Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

    Michael Pesenti - Reply

    I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

    Matt - Reply

    Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

    Trish - Reply

    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

    mjcoughlin70 - Reply

    Where to buy this bracket?

    syidan - Reply

    One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

    Bobby Slone - Reply

    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

    Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

    I wish I had done that.

    Gail Starr -

    Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

    Andy Milne -

    Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

    Tom Long -

    In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

    Perrin Haley -

    I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

    youmingc - Reply

    I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

    jaksbackpack - Reply

    Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

    mitch Toler - Reply

    You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

    Reza I. Permana -

    Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

    As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

    Russ Levey - Reply

    It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

    Udo Schuehle - Reply

    I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

    Garret Gray - Reply

    I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

    Garret Gray - Reply

    The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

    When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

    Chet Seidel - Reply

    Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

    Tom Rohrer -

    I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

    Kevin Harvey -

    I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

    thomasjmaclean - Reply

    I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

    Sare - Reply

    It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

    Alex Kosmider - Reply

    Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

    Alex Kosmider -

    For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

    lowestseries - Reply

    Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

    cambo.robertson - Reply

    Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

    What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

    Juan - Reply

    • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 1.7 mm screw

      • One 3.1 mm screw

    • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

    Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

    damianodessgillett - Reply

    I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

    griffn - Reply

    Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

    kev - Reply

    I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

    adlerpe - Reply

    i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

    girlsrock742 - Reply

    @girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

    # Be more specific about what your issue is.

    # Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

    Good luck!

    Nate Schley - Reply

    Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

    Carol N -

    Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

    Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

    Nate Schley - Reply

    It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

    cruz.giovanni - Reply

    I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

    Patric - Reply

    Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

    Sam Lionheart -

    Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

    Michael Aguilera - Reply

    It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

    Adam - Reply

    Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

    nzf - Reply

    Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

    Sare -

    I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

    I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

    Matt Whiteley - Reply

    There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

    arunhn - Reply

    100% agree. Step 13-19 are totally unnecessary and just adds the risk of breaking the display connector. “Don’t disassemble stuff that doesn’t need disassembling.” Just ensure there’s no strain on the display cable when removing the battery, i.e. by placing the phone on a non-slippery rubbery surface and fix the display to something sturdy with rubber bands.

    Dormouse -

    I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

    Joel Horie - Reply

    I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

    kevin hekman - Reply

    I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

    Billy Bob Baler - Reply

    Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

    Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

    You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

    June Beltran -

    Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

    smahar -

    I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

    Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

    June Beltran - Reply

    I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

    Walter White - Reply

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

    J Marr - Reply

    Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

    Mc Floyd -

    It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

    jacobdanderson -

    I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

    Ergolad - Reply

    How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

    predylindsay - Reply

    I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

    BW Lee - Reply

    Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

    MClare - Reply

    I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

    Heather Best - Reply

    Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

    Peter - Reply

    I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

    Patrick Reed - Reply

    You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

    When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

    Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

    You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

    ACMT - 4 years.

    jonbessom - Reply

    I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

    Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

    There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

    Naresh Annepu - Reply

    If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

    Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

    If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

    Eric Craumer - Reply

    Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

    L He - Reply

    Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

    Sherman Homan - Reply

    I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

    Sare - Reply

    @sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

    That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

    Sare - Reply

    well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

    philbjh - Reply

    For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

    lowestseries - Reply

    Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

    The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

    Indiana Jones - Reply

    Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

    d.rando90 - Reply

    i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

    Regan Murray - Reply

    I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

    AndyKao - Reply

    Bottom left 1.2 screw assembly broke off from the mother board and now my phone will not power up . Can there be another reason for the phone not switching on . How important to the function of the phone is the broken screw assembly ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Reply

    The phone will power on and work just fine without any of the screws in this particular step—the screws are for securing the bracket and keeping the connectors from popping out. I’m not sure what your issue could be, but a missing screw isn’t it! I’d probably start by reseating all the connections and giving it another try. Check the board carefully for damage. Try posting your question in our Answers forum with all the details and you may be able to get some troubleshooting help there. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for your reply

    even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

    Gary Brinkworth - Reply

    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    I can’t get the top left screw back in if the cable bracket. Any reason why. My phone has power and back light is coming on. But screen is blank

    Joan Fitzgerald - Reply

    • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

    douglas hughes - Reply

    Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

    mahoffman - Reply

    I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

    alyssaavaldezz - Reply

    Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

    Veronica del Rio -

    regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

    David Panak - Reply

    This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

    gybeho -

    Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

    lee moran - Reply

    my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

    andrew midgett - Reply

    Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

    gybeho - Reply

    "gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

    cruz.giovanni - Reply

    it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

    Dakota Navarrete - Reply

    I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

    Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

    PG McLaughlin - Reply

    Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

    PG McLaughlin - Reply

    Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

    William Breen - Reply

    +1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

    drpotter -

    For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

    Chet Seidel - Reply

    I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

    Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

    Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

    Pitt Monqui - Reply

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the home button cable connector.

    Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.


    Berta fernandez - Reply

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display data cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

    you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

    copykatt - Reply

    My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

    Gabriel Hirata - Reply

    Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

    William Mullan - Reply

    When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

    Christopher - Reply

    NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

    taylor sparks - Reply

    Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

    Dave - Reply

    If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

    grjos - Reply

    If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

    Andrew Hill - Reply

    what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

    Daniel Murcia - Reply

    what if the batery was not disconnected?

    Sergio Midence - Reply

    Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

    Trish - Reply

    Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

    Cyndi - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

    griffn - Reply

    i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

    awr - Reply

    How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

    falken1337 - Reply

    Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

    Bailey Duncan - Reply

    This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

    Keith Mullins - Reply

    So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

    After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

    Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

    Jonathan Rivera - Reply

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

    grjos - Reply

    I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

    Charlotte - Reply

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

    I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

    // Simon

    Simon Tengstrand -

    I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

    Simon Tengstrand -

    Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

    Ume Nishikino - Reply

    My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

    Sissy -

    I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

    Heywoz - Reply

    I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

    What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

    I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

    Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

    Will - Reply

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

    Joeri Boersen - Reply

    Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

    Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

    Neos Kosmos - Reply

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

    Perrin Haley - Reply

    If you don’t have something small enough to open it, you can use the lever when the screen is off.

    Lucas Rowlands -

    I actually removed the simcard as the first step because I didn’t want to risk fumbling with an open phone (as someone previously mentioned)

    twcheng93 - Reply

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    After reassembly phone would not detect SIM Card.

    During repair while components were out of phone I used that opportunity to straighten the back case that was bent. While straightening the back case I bent the thin edge of the back case by the SIM Card slot. SIM Card would click into place and seemed to make a good connection but the phone would not detect the SIM Card. After really straightening the back case by the SIM Card slot almost back to cherry the phone would now detect the SIM Card. The tray has to fit really flush with the case.

    johncrowley111 - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.

    How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

    Carter Christie - Reply

    Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

    paulflicker - Reply

    If the foam piece on top comes off (which it probably will), replace with a tiny piece of electrical tape to maintain electrical isolation.

    Colin Lacey - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

    Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

    ronjon40 - Reply

    ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

    Jordan Leong - Reply

    Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

    Lars Andersson - Reply

    Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

    Christa -

    I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

    Trent Warner - Reply

    Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

    Alexander Kvasov -

    (I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

    I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

    I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

    In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

    Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

    Tug - Reply

    I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

    Bill - Reply

    I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

    Bill - Reply

    Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

    Helge Fahrnberger - Reply

    What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

    kris - Reply

    If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

    jacobdanderson - Reply

    I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(

    It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…

    Julien-Pierre - Reply

    i broke this cable. Lol.

    until now “no service”. haha

    Aiman Jamali - Reply

    Ripped off the little black foam on top of it.

    On reassembly i simply put the foam on top of the connector. The process was working smoothly at first, but the day after tomorrow i have to open my iPhone 6 again because found it in “No Service” state and cannot find wifi :( !!!

    I tried to once again assemble signal connector, yet with a full step from assembly to reassembly while cleaned the dust inside.

    Thank goodness it worked after all the process. Whew

    Kicky Pelealu - Reply

    This morning I woke up with the same issues. No Service and couldn’t find any wifi signal.

    And the unwanted thing happened, when trying to pry that small gold cable …… It’s plugged out together with it’s coupling on hte logic board LOL

    Now that old iPhone 6 can’t come back to life. Sad

    Kicky Pelealu -

    • Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:

      • One 2.9 mm screw

      • One 2.2 mm screw

    I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

    Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

    Suhaib Khalid - Reply

    Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket.

    • Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    This is the most challenging piece in wrapping up the repair. any suggestions, anyone?

    Adrian V - Reply

    I found that when reconnecting the smaller connector, sliding it from the top of the phone towards the battery was the easiest way to get it aligned.

    Colin Lacey - Reply

    • Remove the following four Phillips screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:

      • One 1.5 mm screw

      • One 1.4 mm screw

      • Two 2.1 mm screws

    unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

    David Craig - Reply

    I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

    Renato Caicedo - Reply

    The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

    John Galvin - Reply

    I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

    Mareque Ireland - Reply

    Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.

    Chris Reimer - Reply

    The yellow and orange circles on the left must be inverted,

    Guilly A - Reply

    Couldn’t remove 1.5mm screw. Looks like there is a problem with it.

    Deimos - Reply

  3. Spread Fixmas Cheer
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    • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone.

    • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws from the grounding bracket.

    I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

    facebook - Reply

    These two little screws are in pretty tight.

    Matt Lobban - Reply

    I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

    Kayleigh Steele - Reply

    It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

    Dormouse - Reply

    I CANNOT get these screws out!

    Becky n - Reply

    • Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the angled logic board bracket.

      • One 2.6 mm screw

      • One 1.3 mm screw, located horizontally in the upper sidewall of the iPhone.

    Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

    sem schilder - Reply

    I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

    Daniel Villanis -

    I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

    Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

    Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

    Anand Parthasarathy -

    I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

    Gar Galen - Reply

    I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

    Kelsey Chesnut -

    Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

    Perrin Haley -

    Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

    And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

    Wusels -

    I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

    Joanna Kastelik - Reply

    Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

    Dormouse - Reply

    To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

    This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

    Dormouse -

    I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

    Joey Imperatori - Reply

    Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

    Tessa Baker - Reply

    • Remove the angled logic board bracket.

    The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

    Doug Whyte - Reply

    Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

    Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

    I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

    Neel Nani - Reply

    I discovered this bracket was broken in the middle when i removed it. I continued the tear down and replace the antena. It seens that it did not solve my GPS issue… could this angle bracket be the reason that GPS stopped working? Is this part available to sell?

    Tuoa lafay - Reply

    • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.

    Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

    Christian Abreu - Reply

    If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

    Jas - Reply

    This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

    Kyle Sullivan - Reply

    I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

    ttilberg - Reply

    The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

    Renan Sesti - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.

    Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

    Iain York - Reply

    This is part no. 00095-AF.

    brendon - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board.

    • Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

      • Two 1.9 mm Phillips screws

      • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

    Matthew Williams - Reply

    I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

    paulflicker - Reply

    Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

    Angelo Mastrella -

    Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

    Mathieu Paquette - Reply

    Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

    Kees Vermeulen - Reply

    I used the battery bracket to unscrew the standoff screw

    douira - Reply

    1,5 flat from the Pro Tech Toolkit made it…, thanks to Angelo

    Hans - Reply

    The tool to remove this part does not come in the ifixIt New part Toolkit for this tutorial. That was an issue.

    Thiago Santos Sobrinho - Reply

    Sorry, it actually does. But it comes inside the new part package, apart from the other tools. I only opened it in the last step.

    Thiago Santos Sobrinho - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers.

      • Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.

    Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

    Carter Christie - Reply

    Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

    Jeffrey Dennis - Reply

    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

      • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

    Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

    If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

    Lars Andersson - Reply

    good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

    Christa -

    5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

    swayanshu panda - Reply

    When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.


    When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.


    6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

    Christa - Reply

    Don’t forget the the antenna interconnect cable, also in the top right, should be above the board.

    Ira Jacobs -

    • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

    • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

    the title says power button cable assembly?!

    douira - Reply

    • Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

      • Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip.

    • Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

      • If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to Step 44.

    Add Comment

    • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.

    • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

    • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

    Add Comment

    • Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.

    • Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

    • Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.

    Add Comment

    • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

    • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.

    • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

      • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps and continue on Step 46.

      • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

    im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?

    Kaylie McClain - Reply

    The glue strips are a separate component and can be replaced independently of the battery. Yes, the battery will work without them. However, it’s a good idea to replace your battery anyway. In particular, if the battery is even slightly deformed during removal, it may not be safe to re-use.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    Add Comment

    • Insert a plastic card under the logic board edge of the battery.

    • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

    • Press the card in at several points if necessary to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

    Add Comment

    • After peeling or prying out all adhesive, remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • When reinstalling the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

    Add Comment

    • Remove any tape covering the upper left rear-facing camera screw.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the rear-facing camera bracket:

      • One 1.5 mm screw

      • One 2.1 mm screw

    Add Comment

    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Carefully remove the antenna interconnect cable from the rear case.

    Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?

    ben - Reply

    Just conjecturing but it has a capacitor on it and must connect a transmitter chip to an antenna. Your phone would work without it but I would expect its range would be reduced.

    Doug Whyte - Reply

    • Remove the rear-facing camera from the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the flash bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the flash bracket from the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Phillips #00 screws from the power button bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the point of a spudger to gently push the flash and microphone modules up out of their respective holes in the rear case.

    • If you encounter significant adhesive, use tweezers to peel the components up from the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Begin to peel the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end.

    • Continue to peel the cable up, being particularly careful of the narrow component ends of the cable.

    • Remove the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable from the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Grip the power button by the metal bar to pull it free from the rear case.

    • The power button is held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the volume control cable brackets:

      • Two 2.3 mm screws

      • One 1.8 mm screw

    Add Comment

    • Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers.

    Add Comment

    • Begin to peel the volume control button cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end.

      • Be gentle when peeling the thin portions of the cable up from the case.

    • Remove the volume control button cable from the rear case.

    J'ai remonté mes boutons et ils ne reviennent plus en place. Ils restent enfoncés. Aie-je oublié une étape?

    Julien Deroy - Reply

    • Pull the volume control buttons by the metal bar to remove them from the rear case.

      • The buttons are held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws securing the speaker:

      • Two 2.9 mm screws

      • Two 2.3 mm screws

    Add Comment

    • Use the point of a spudger to push the antenna interconnect cable clip off of the speaker housing.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the speaker up and out of the rear case.

    After reassembling the whole phone the speaker did not work anymore. I did reconnect the antenna properly (I think), but I might have screwed up the underlying flatcable. Does somebody have any idea what might be the cause of the speaker not working anymore?

    Bart Spiering - Reply

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning port retaining bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the Lightning port retaining bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the single 3.6 mm Phillips #00 shoulder screw from the microphone brace.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the microphone brace from the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the six remaining Phillips #00 screws from the Lightning connector cable assembly:

      • Two 3.1 mm shoulder screws

      • Two 1.7 mm screws

      • Two 1.5 mm screws

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to begin peeling the Lightning connector cable assembly up from the rear case.

    Seriously, you'll mess up your flex cable this way.

    I suggest starting on the top left where the circle is. Use an utility knife / cutter to get beneath the cable and start prying from there.

    Use a hair dryer to get the adhesive a bit looser ;)

    Didier Daniel - Reply

    Yeah, top left corner is better place to start peeling. I snapped my cable a little at first, just where the speaker connector wiring goes, and there goes my speaker functionality... I managed to keep the rest of the cable intact though proceeding from top left. And I used a lot of hairdryer.

    edriskus - Reply

    • Carefully pull the Lightning connector cable assembly up slightly to free the it from the vibrator and speaker screw posts.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift under the Lightning connector portion of the cable assembly to free more adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Use the point of a spudger to push the microphone portion of the Lightning cable assembly out of its recess in the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Gently run the point of a spudger under the cable assembly between the Lightning connector and the headphone jack to free it from the last of the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to help guide the headphone jack out of its recess in the rear case.

    • Remove the Lightning connector cable assembly from the iPhone.

    I removed the Lightning connector cable assembly, but it does not stay connected to new rear case that I added it to. Is there any recommended tape/adhesive to solve this issue?

    Angelo Mastrella - Reply

    • Remove the single 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the SIM eject lever.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the SIM eject lever from the rear case.

    It's probably not even worth mentioning since it's fairly obvious, but for me to complete my rear case replacement, I had to transfer three bumper-like brackets from the side edges of the old case. These brackets help hold the screen in place so they are pretty important. Six screws total. Two of the brackets were on the left and one on the right.

    Additionally, there are three mesh screens behind the holes for the two microphones and the bottom speaker that weren't on my replacement case. For optimal sound performance, it's probably prudent to move these to the new case as well.

    Vern Hart - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

195 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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My first time inside an iPhone. I slipped on some icy steps and bent my phone. Luckily it bent on the battery side and still worked except for the 'down' volume button. That wouldn't move because the housing was so deformed. Took my time and followed the guide carefully, it was absolutely fine. Took an hour and three quarters.

nbuchan - Reply

My issue is the glue on the battery! i destroyed my first battery saying to remove has anyone got any advice on this? thanks

laurenceleonard - Reply

I failed with both battery pull tabs, but I successfully used a microwaveable wheat bag in place of the iOpener, then carefully slid a store loyalty card under the battery. It took a bit of doing but I just took my time. The back of the battery was a bit bubbled but it still works fine.

nbuchan -

I successfully replaced my rear case but upon completion I've noticed my power and volume buttons are no longer clicky in fact they've lost all springiness. I feel like they are constantly touching the button contacts and have yet to turn the phone back on anyone have any ideas as to how to fix this?

csens92 - Reply

In the middle of the volume buttons itself, on the inside is a round plate glued, you have to replace this on the new volume buttons

clbr -

Yeah the buttons themselves have a tiny piece of circular metal that meets a tiny piece of black (carbon?) on the flex button. They are TINY but if there is no black speck OR if the speck is off-center, then you won't have any successful clicking. When it works, it works. There's not mistaking. it's a very simple but tiny mechanical issue with buttons. But it's what makes them so nice.

CircuitChip -

Check if the circular metal piece on the button is in place. Check if the circular black rubber is in place on the flex cable. Also check if you put the rubber gasket around the button back.

Didier Daniel -

i successfully replaced my case but after i finished my speaker doesnt work anymore, does anyone know how to fix this? the earpiece speaker works but the bottom one beside the charger doesnt

Moe - Reply

I was having th same issue. I took my phone apart and I pressed down harder on the connector at steps 22. This fixed my problem.

Vitaly Strelkov -

On the bottom of your speaker you have gold contacts. See if they are in place and that they touch the gold on the lightning flex cable.

Didier Daniel -

Awesome guide! Now if you're doing what I'm doing which was a full blown part drop into a fresh frame - you still need to get the bottom grills, headphone plastic, speaker dampers and all that fun stuff with tweezers. Also to note, if you got a fresh stock frame, you'll also need to transfer the side-frame LCD stabilizers. 6 screws and 3 pieces but you still need to consider if your frame has everything in them before you start dropping the charge flex back in. Otherwise this is a complete teardown!

To harp on stock frames - they're great but I had to file my sim slot in order for my sim tray to fit. Also the buttons that come with stock frames do NOT have the extra padding to connect with the actual button on the flex. So unless you have the original button, you'll need to make sure your buttons have a solid click. If they don't, they're missing the tiny mid-connector.

CircuitChip - Reply

Yep, correct. Tweezers and an utility knife / cutter are your best friend here.

Didier Daniel -

Simply amazing! Used this guide to replace the wifi antenna and flex cover and after about an hour voila', it works! As others may have found, I believe the real problem is the small piece of insulation on the wifi antenna itself. Mine was stuck to the upper glass side of the case whereas the new one had it affixed to the antenna itself. Take your time and label each size screw as you go along and you'll do fine (I simply labeled a piece of scotch tape and placed the screw on it).

bobwojcik - Reply

Okay tiny problem, I put it back together and didn't notice any problems at first. But when I made a call the other person could hear me, but I couldn't hear anything. Apon further inspection I noticed neither camera is functioning, the battery won't charge more than 15%, and no sound will play from my phone. Does anyone have any advice for fixing this?

Lauren May - Reply

Check the header plugs are in correctly. Some are harder to locate in than others.....

Malc -

Thanks so much for putting this up and making it available. A bit fiddly, even for an ex cell transmitter repairer, but got there. Found it good to have a sheet of paper at each important step, draw a sketch of item and lay screws in position they need to be when reassembling.


Malc - Reply

After finishing everything, whenever I want to plug in my phone it says that the cable is not safe and won't charge. What should I do?

hedgefundtradingbull - Reply

Does the new housing fit in a case just as well as the original housing? I replaced an iPhone 5 housing once and it didn't fit in the case; it was too tall. I didn't want to replace my iPhone 6 housing unless I know that it will fit in my case the same.

Bobby - Reply

Great guide. I completed it, seemingly without a hitch. but now the phone won't power up. Either that or the display isn't working now. I checked the battery cable and display cable and they're plugged into their sockets correctly. Curious what else I should check.

I did accidentally re-connect the battery to the logic board at one point before completing the assembly. I quickly disconnected it after realizing I had a few more steps before I was supposed to plug it in, but I wonder if I could have fried the logic board by jumping the gun.

Ryan Palmer - Reply

Not sure if you resolved your issue yet but try turning the phone on and looking closely at the screen with a light shining on it. Often times connecting/disconnecting the screen cables with the battery still plugged in can blow something on the backlight line (normally just a filter). If that's the case you should still be able to see things on the screen if you have the proper lighting.

Josef Kisor -

This guide works great. However, be very careful when removing the lighting cable/audio jack housing. The wiring coming off of it (the flat black piece running to the right of the case) is heavily glued. I went too fast, and ended up damaging it by pulling on it too hard. It might be a good idea to warm up the back panel to loosen the adhesive prior to removing this part.

Patrick McDaniel - Reply

Hi! Question...

To get to the Lightning port, I have to remove almost Everything, right?

As always, Great guides!!! Much love from Chile :)

Marcos Müller - Reply

Check out the Lightning Connector Replacement guide, you only need to open the phone and then remove the speaker and Taptic engine. Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

Despues de cambiar la placa de carga lightening, el celular funciona pero al realizar llamadas la señal de la voz disminuye, pero al grabar audio con whats app funciona corrrectamente, no creo que sea el microfono pero que puede ser?

Matias Carrasco - Reply

It would be useful if in teardown / repair guides like this you could indicate parts which can be transplanted straight into a new shell - for example the logic board obviously can’t come out of the old shell into a new one, but things like the power button/flash/microphone assembly can.

elf Speight - Reply

do you need to apply fresh adhesive when putting the flex cables back into place or are they in themselves adhesive?

grant pidler - Reply

YEEHAWW!!! Complete! Take your time. And pay close attention to any step that has many comments. Only issue I had was the standoff screw and its piggyback screw. Don’t mix up the 1.7 mm piggyback screw with the other 1.7 mm screws. They just wont thread in very well. :)

-Mike C.

Loraine Castro - Reply

I did everything as showed on the guide but the screen won’t light up now.

What might be some of problems. Also, pretty stupid from me, but didn’t back this up….how do I come about it now?

Gerald - Reply

Same with me, did you managed to fix it?

eveduardo98 -

My son smashed his screen and then because the phone lost its rigidity it bent in his pocket. I bought a broken phone with a good screen and case and swapped the innards (I left the buttons and cables as I assumed they’d be alright in the broken phone). And it worked! One good phone for a lot lot cheaper than any alternative. Brilliant guide. Thanks!

krisology - Reply