Introduction

Use this guide to strip and replace your cracked or broken iPhone 6 screen. It will show you how to remove the home button, front-facing camera and sensor assembly, LCD shield plate, and home button ribbon cable—all of which will need to be transferred to your replacement panel. To replace the entire assembly instead, follow this much shorter guide.

In either case, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

Can changing the earpiece disable the Touch ID?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

I read somewhere that if I change the earphone speaker. It will disable the Touch ID once I put the phone back together. Do I have to sacrifice one of these if I want my earphone speaker to work?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

The earpiece speaker itself has nothing to do with Touch ID; a correctly performed repair will leave Touch ID perfectly intact. Touch ID will only be disabled if you damage the home button hardware or the ribbon cable that connects it to the logic board. That cable runs from the home button, behind the display shield, and up to the top of the phone near the earpiece speaker. So yes, if you are unfortunate/careless enough to damage it in the process of replacing your earpiece speaker, that could disable Touch ID, although Touch ID is no different from any other component in that respect! ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel. Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel.

Be sure that the replacement part has a little black squared sponge facing the camera. I have purchased some replacement displays in the past (assembled with front camera) and some of them didn't had that sponge. The result is a front camera not pushed onto the display glass and this will cause backlight leaks into the front camera.

ferbarragan88 - Reply

Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel. Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel.
  • Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel.

its better to slightly heat the display from front in order to loseen the adhesive which is glued with the strip to display

vara prasad - Reply

Be sure to remove the plastic bracket (clear piece) that holds the camera in place from the old screen and add it to your new screen, or else your camera won't seat the right way against the screen and you'll have to take everything apart to place it in.

marcus derkson - Reply

Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, remove the earpiece speaker from the front panel. Be careful not to touch any of the contacts on the speaker or the cable, oils can damage them and interrupt the connection.
  • Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, remove the earpiece speaker from the front panel.

    • Be careful not to touch any of the contacts on the speaker or the cable, oils can damage them and interrupt the connection.

Like me, you may have accidentally touched the speaker, springs or 4 gold contacts on the cable. I used the tweezers to remove the speaker but it magnetically got stuck to the tweezers so I removed it with my fingers and accidentally touched the contacts. Use your own judgement, but I've had good results using a tiny amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and cleaning these 4 gold contacts and the springs on the speaker piece. Beats replacing the speaker for $25. Perhaps the #iFixitTeam can lend some advice on this step, in addition to the warning about not touching it. :-)

Brian Hernandez - Reply

Man, great guide getting to the speaker, but I have to replace the mesh as well. Not sure why we couldn't just include that in the guide since we already went this far! Doesn't seem to be anything too good on google results for this last step either... bah!

TheFranko NoneYa - Reply

I have had problems with two phones after replacing a screen. The sensor that turns off screen when talking does not turn off screen. May this be because i touched this contacts?

Ronny - Reply

That's a problem with your proximity sensor (tiny thing with 2 'eyes'), which is on the same flex cable as the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

Hi Ronny, im having the same problem. have you found a solution for it? if u have, please help me out

Fabius Pradeep -

Make sure the screen that protects the speaker is free of ear wax. It can be stopped up with ear wax and limit the output of the earpiece speaker. About 50% of the ones I have come across this was the cause of low earpiece volume. Use a small nylon hobby paint brush dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol to clean it.

scottingram - Reply

Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel. Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.
  • Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.

i have a question.

my homebutton cable was broken. so i bought front plate.

and i have original home button too.

so, if i change broken plate and new plate, can i using touch id??

kjh657 - Reply

You should actually be commenting in a home button step (such as 30), so you get the right visibility. But if by front plate you mean the display (digitizer, lcd, and front glass) then no, this will NOT fix touch id problems. If the problem is damage to the home button out it's attached cable you are out of luck, as those are unique to each iPhone. However if the ribbon cable (the one attached to the large shield) is damaged, then that is replaceable. A new lcd shield should come with the home button ribbon attached, or you can buy the ribbon separately and just replace that. The shield is much easier to replace and about the same cost.

Charlie Yarbrough -

When replacing, make sure the proximity sensor is replaced correctly and seated fully inside the plastic bracket. Not doing so can cause loss of functionality in the sensor preventing the lcd from turning off when it's supposed to during calls etc.

Charlie Yarbrough - Reply

Could you explain this any further? I recently replaced this because of a bad microphone and now the proximity sensor isn't working. I transferred the plastic/rubber gasket/bracket thingy over. I've disassembled and reassembled the thing 3 times to make sure the sensor is properly seated, no luck. The ambient light sensor for auto brightness works just fine, which I think is actually the one with the plastic part, unless I'm missing something?

Is it possible the new cable assembly just has a bad sensor?

Bennet Pullen -

I confirm what you say. Bought a phone with proximity sensor not working. Turns out it didn't have the plastic bracket where you put the sensor in.. :)

Didier Daniel -

When reassembling, ensure that the plastic bracket for the proximity sensor is removed from your old cable assembly and that you put it with the new cable. I found that if you put the plastic bracket in the recess in the front panel first to ensure that you get it in correctly.

Christopher - Reply

Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone. Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.
  • Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.

When I was replacing my cable, I had part of the old cable stay in the in the front panel and had to remove it before I could put my new cable in during this step.

Christopher - Reply

Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel. Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel.
  • Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel.

oddly enough my replacement screen didn't come with the earpiece rubber or front-facing camera clear "recess" pieces. Prying them off my old screen was tedious and in the end I didn't have new adhesive to apply. What would you guys recommend?

Brian Hernandez - Reply

I had to remove it completely and then apply some glue, very tiny just to keep it in place. However, my replacement part does come with an adhesive for the microphone.

azriaris1 -

Just pry gently with a small screwdriver in the upper right corner and the glue will drop

Kvalvik69 - Reply

My replacement part had a clear plastic that you need to remove so the microphone will stick. It is very thin so I pulled out the whole rubber part a few times before being able just to remove the clear plastic that shields the glue (part bought from ifixit.com)

Christian van der Leeden - Reply

Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable from the front panel.
  • Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable from the front panel.

Add Comment

Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

Remove the home button bracket from the front panel. Remove the home button bracket from the front panel.
  • Remove the home button bracket from the front panel.

It is possible to over-tighten these screws, causing the home button to malfunction.

doog - Reply

It is also possible for the tiny metal piece (not really a screw) that goes over the center of the home button to come out of the bracket & be lost, which will cause issues for making contact when the button is pressed. Now I can't seem to find any kits with a complete replacement...not sure if this is going to affect my fingerprint id capability because I'm having another issue of my phone being disabled due to the cracked lcd that caused the security code to be input several times which has locked me out completely. I'm still trying to find a way to not lose the pictures and videos that I haven't downloaded to my computer. Anyone have any ideas on either issue? Thanks in advance! ;-)

Dawn - Reply

Are the home buttons for a 6 plus and 6s plus interchangeable?

Sheila Smith - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button.

During this step, I couldn't separate the two connectors. I accidentally managed to tear the flex cable which passes under the LCD shield/plate and up to the other LCD connectors which attach to the motherboard. Can this cable be replaced to restore Touch ID functionality if everything else is intact?

I can't see any special chip on that part, just seems like an I/O connector?

James - Reply

Yep you can. Touch ID functionality won't be lost.

Didier Daniel -

I have found by gently heating the broken screen side with a heat gun or reworker, it makes removing the home button and the connector so much easier to remove with the tip of the spudger and a press on the home button from the front side

darren - Reply

Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel. Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it free with a spudger.
  • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply mild heat (with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer) and try again.

I used a hair dryer on this part. It made removing the home button extremely easy. Just take it slow

peterhubner - Reply

I too used a hair dryer and slow pressure as did Peter. I found that the adhesive would slowly release if I just held a little constant pressure with my finger and waited.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger. Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.
  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

Don't get in a hurry with the ribbon. Heat and a gradual constant pressure did the trick.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully separate the home button cable from the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • If the cable doesn't separate easily, apply heat using an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again. Be careful not to damage the cable.

Add Comment

Once all the adhesive has been separated, remove the home button from the front panel.
  • Once all the adhesive has been separated, remove the home button from the front panel.

    • If you are replacing a broken front panel, there may be glass shards stuck to the home button. Carefully remove any remaining glass before transferring your home button to a new display.

One thing to note for re-assembly. You have to make sure the home button is firmly in place. Otherwise, a lack of adhesive will cause the home button to sink into the iPhone after it's fully assembled when you try to press it.

rskrobe - Reply

Are you sure that you screwed the metal plate back in far enough? I don't have any issues and can't believe that Apple would rely on adhesive to hold the home button from sinking into the phone. Especially as it's the most pressed button on the iPhone.

Thomas Hallett -

Yeah, you have to buy new gaskets if you want you're home button to stick to the digitizer frame when pressing. Don't believe me? Just see what happens when you press the button without new adhesive :) And heck I bought 50 gaskets for only $5 from China.

Didier Daniel -

On the old screen,there were 2 little rubber covers that fit on the screw mounts (that hold the pentalobe screws from Step 1) that I transferred to the new part.

jefowler4th - Reply

I would add a few extra steps to this (i had to disassemble and reassemble 5 times).

First, adding the Ifixit forward facing camera replacement, and I would add the steps 12-16 fromt his guide on how to take off the heat shield (also has the fingerprint cable).

http://www.instructables.com/id/iPhone-6...

Thanks again.

Roland Bodenheim - Reply

after placing the home button again, it dose not read my finger prints anymore! any idea? Thanks.

Khal Sh - Reply

For all the iphone 6 series once the original home button ribbon is torn or damaged the touch ID will never work again. Even if you replace the home button/ribbon. This is a security feature implemented by Apple. Once the original cable for the phone has been damaged or replaced, the touch ID functionality is gone forever.

Tony - Reply

Dear After replacing the cracked screen successfully I turn it ON and the apple logo keeps coming and going as if it is like rebooting continuously any IDEA?

Cesar

cesarclaudio - Reply

I'm having the same issue. Did you ever get a response to your question?

Kevin Rivera -

This is missing a step ... most replacement screen assemblies also are missing a small metal plate that sits under the place where the home button connector and flex cable connector rest. Apparently without this metal the touch ID cannot be enabled. That said .. I'll not know on this phone since after following these directions and finding out I needed to pull apart the home button a second time to place this metal plate there the connector would not separate and it ripped the flex cable from the connectors completely. Now it's time to get a new home button and touch ID will never work on this phone again :(

cueball - Reply

My new screen comes with the home button cable, if I just swap the original home button to the new front panal will I retain touch ID? Or do I need the original cable too?

nathanation - Reply

if you want touch id to work the cable going from the home button to the logic board must be changed also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEWAQiu...

Eric Ocegueda - Reply

That isn't what my home button looks like? It didn't have the little sensor on it, just the button and it still worked but now doesn't... Anyone know why?

Emie Jayne - Reply

despues de serguir la guia fue exitosa solo que tengo un problema no reconoce la huella me dice error al configurar el touch id alguna solucion???

CHARLES - Reply

When I was transferring my home button, it was covered in tiny shards of glass as the instructions warned. I found I was able to remove many of the shards and to clean up the button by wrapping a piece of scotch tape around my finger sticky side out and then gently dabbing at the shards.

davechar - Reply

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD shield plate to the front panel: One 1.7 mm screw Six 1.6 mm screws (three on each side)
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD shield plate to the front panel:

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • Six 1.6 mm screws (three on each side)

I just cant get those screws out! im stuck.

kntinos10 - Reply

I to am stuck at this point on two screws any solution.

Janice Scott -

I, too, am having enormous problems removing all these screws. The first 1.7 mm came out without trouble, but the 6, 1.6mm screws are terrible. I've made it down to the last one and I'm afraid that the screw head is becoming stripped. I'm working with about a half-dozen tiny-headed Philips head screw drivers and am no longer getting any "bite" to turn the screw.

ellamama - Reply

You need to press pretty hard with the driver in order to get it to bite. If necessary, hold the flat of your spudger behind the screw so you can apply more pressure without bending or breaking anything. If you've completely stripped the screw, you might be able to get away with just snipping the metal tab off with a pair of wire cutters and letting the other five or six screws do the job alone. Otherwise, you'll probably need to replace the entire display assembly (one that comes with a new shield already installed).

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

Lift the front-facing camera end of the LCD shield plate up slightly. Do not attempt to remove the shield plate entirely, it is still attached to the front panel by the adhered-down home button cable.
  • Lift the front-facing camera end of the LCD shield plate up slightly.

    • Do not attempt to remove the shield plate entirely, it is still attached to the front panel by the adhered-down home button cable.

impossible to unscrew the last 3 screws. help!

suesamp - Reply

where you able to unscrew the last screws? i'm having the same problem but only with 2

Hector Torres -

When assembling back the shield plate, you have to ensure that the LCD cable (the one with the long metal) is put under the shield plate.

azriaris1 - Reply

Slide the point of a spudger behind the shield plate to gently peel the home button cable up off of the front panel. The home button cable is very thin, go slowly and be careful not to rip it. Remove the LCD shield plate.
  • Slide the point of a spudger behind the shield plate to gently peel the home button cable up off of the front panel.

  • The home button cable is very thin, go slowly and be careful not to rip it.

  • Remove the LCD shield plate.

I have found that using a fresh razor blade is a little easier than the spudger alone. First lift up the small tab on the left of the connector. Then very carefully slide a corner of the razor blade under the left corner of the connector, making sure you are under the metal backing. Slightly lift up with the razor blade to make room for the spudger. Slowly lift the connector with the spudger and viola, it should come loose!

Damon - Reply

Absolutely, I had to do this on my last iPhone 6 repair. I was worried that I'd ripped the ribbon cable slightly but I was fortunate and it hadn't torn.

Kronkk37 -

Golden advice ! From now on I'm doing it the same way. So much easier and safer ;) Thanks buddy !

Didier Daniel -

I spent 15 minutes trying to do this with just the spudger. I went and got a razor blade and had the cable off in 30 sec!!! this is definetly the easiest way to do it

Aria Farahani -

There is a metal part attached to the bottom of the ribbon. Be careful to pull that up and not attempt to separate the ribbon from the metal. I started doing this and it took a good deal of force and then finally got enough light to see that I could get under the metal. The metal comes up much easier.

holtkamp4 - Reply

Thank you sooooooo mutch ! I was doing exactly the same thing !

Drissouille -

Heat up the area first and use a metal spludger to lift up under the metal plate, when heated, it lifts very easy.

Glen - Reply

I've had one flex fail (even though not physically damaged), by lifting the heat shield up and removing the connector that way. The result is the phone does not register properly with button, and Touch ID doesn't work. I now use a fine point tweezer to get in under the metal plate on the rear of the connector with a bit of heat. This seems to be the least invasive way of doing it. You need to check Touch ID is registering after each screen change due to the possibility of Error 53.

Matthew Kerr - Reply

In my opinion, using a razor blade is extremely risky. In fact, I won't even use a spudger, because I find this cable to be very fragile. Here's what I do: Firstly, heat an iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds, remove it for 2 minutes, then return it to the microwave for a further 30 seconds so it's extra warm. Secondly, lay the iOpener flat directly on top of the connecter for 90 seconds to loosen the adhesive. Thirdly, move the iOpener out of the way, then with one hand, lift the metal plate from the top end (closest to the front facing camera) to a 45 degree angle, or just enough so with your other hand you can fit your thumb under the flex cable towards the bottom of the metal plate. Now you want to grip the flex cable with your thumb underneath and your index finger on top as close as possible to the connector itself, then slowly and carefully lift both the plate and flex cable simultaneously towards the bottom of the phone. I found this video to be helpful: http://youtu.be/mh-cbErzGNo

Jayden Monkley - Reply

You can see a pull-tab on the left side from a chip (which is glued to the surface under it). This pull-tab is free to take - no glue under it. Just grab it and gently move to the right - to the chip. It's the easiest way to unglue this home button cable. No blade or other stuff needed!

dv1977 - Reply

I agree with dv1977, the black pull-tab on the left side of the chip is a great starting point. Heat will also help, so use an iOpener or something similar to heat the glue.

Tobias -

Seconded! This should be the only way to do it. It's really difficult to get the spudger under the metal underside of the ribbon cable otherwise!

Thomas Hallett -

Yes I agree to you. This should be the original orientation and not use the spudger for that.

Jupiter -

I just did my first swap ever on a 6, and I had the phone powered back on and all components tested within about 3 minutes. I've changed hundreds of 4, 5, 5c, and 5s though, so I'm sure that experience helped. I didn't have to disconnect the battery at all, just very careful with how I removed everything. If you can afford it, GET THE FIX KIT. I've got a whole container of leftover tools from other screens and I didn't even touch them. I used the new fix kit and it helped so much. Transplanting the old home button was a breeze, nothing torn at all. RTFM like I did, and anyone should be able to swap any of these components without an issue.

kylemmancuso - Reply

Removing this cable is rather tricky if you follow the instructions in the manual. I think i repaired about 20 iPhone 6's by now, all using a metal spudger or a boxcutter knife. How? Gently lift black ribbon as seen on the pictury, starting on the left side as seen on the picture. Once you see the small metal connector, which is attached with a mild adhesive, stop pulling. Gently wedge the metal spudger under the connector, starting at the bottom left. With a mild pressure the connector will simply "pop off". If it doenst work with the spudger, try using a boxcotter, just be careful you put it under the connector and not between the cable and the connector.

Kenneth Hordijk - Reply

Doesn't replacing this effect Touch ID

simon chieng - Reply

As long as it is done successfully, Touch ID will not be impacted.

TheJB -

I failed the last part and i broked the cabel is there anything what i can do?

samisaukkonen91 - Reply

If the cable is broken, you'll need to purchase a home button assembly and install it in your phone. You'll lose Touch ID functionality, but all other home button functions should act as normal.

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iPhone 6 and 6 Plus Home Button Assembly

TheJB -

During this step, I did mistakenly disconnect the cable from the metal connector underneath. However, I was able to remove the metal connector using a spudger and transfer it to the new screen along with the home button cable assembly. Fortunately, touch ID still worked, in addition to all standard home button functions.

--

I do think it would be great if iFixIt could add a note about this metal connector during this step as it plays a very important role.

TheJB - Reply

I did the same thing! How do you reconnect the metal plate???

Ian Hodgson - Reply

Watch out for the metal under the connector! I speant 15 min trying to get the connector unstuck and I didn't even realize you were supposed to remove the metal as well and leave it attached. Ripped my cable because of this (luckily it was an already-broken practice phone). Very important!

Landon McCoy - Reply

Don't try to use a spudger behind the metal plate. It is extremely difficult as you can't see if you really could reach the metal under the connector. I ripped the cable doing this way! You better try to reach under the metal from the bottom of connector (not from behind the metal plate!)

Yang - Reply

SUPER HELPFUL! Very much appreciated. Thank you!

JRKoop - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

817 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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101 Comments

Did this replacement and the finger scaner stop working. I didnt damge anything im a experienced technician the button still worked but the finger print doest work. I thought the firmware was corrupted and I updated the phone. It now shows an error and can not be restore to normal functionality, its stuck in restore mode . I had to reassemble the phone and set it to pay and paid a fee for a new one.

matthewlevy300 - Reply

Wow man, i'm sorry to hear that.. Hate that kinda things.

Niels Aasted -

I have same issue , i tried many time to restore the phone after Touch ID failed , but restore cant be completed because of error #53 ,

basilaldossari -

Same problem! Same backround! Need help :/

mmummler -

Is there any more reason to disconnect the battery on the 6 than any previous iPhone? I've repaired countless 5,5c and 5S without disconnecting the battery. Never a problem.

DNATECH LONDON -

I had this issue once, with an apparently broken TouchID when the cable was perfectly preserved and everything.

I played around with some spare parts and it turned out that the culprit was that the display was not OEM- the TouchID has to pass info through the display to the motherboard and non-OEM displays disrupt this process.

The way to fix this is to purchase a new display again from a more reliable source that has a trustworthy OEM claim.

a059970 -

nice guide, but you forgot about really important point

disconnect battery before you will d something with lcd connectors

you don't won't to damage board by some short circuit

bers - Reply

Agreed. It's a serious omission.

Many times it won't matter, but occasionally something will touch in the wrong place and *plink* the phone is broken.

Paul L Daniels -

yes, it's a nice idea

xixili -

ok just swapped a lcd and home button flex cable that connects to the motherboard. Now the phone is not turning on at all... Plugged in does not show any charging and has no heat coming from the phone at all. Testing to see if lcd backlight is damaged does not show anything as the vibration button switched does nothing

Anything else helpful might help with this.

JasonW - Reply

I have the same problem. Have you fixed this?

amyleighox -

On step 34, every attempt I have to pry that sensor cable off the front housing I keep breaking the cable. Any idea on how to effectively remove it so I don't have to keep re-purchasing this part?

jta0017 - Reply

Warm it up a bit with a heatgun, makes the bonding adhesive a bit softer and you can then lift it up safely with a spudger.

Paul L Daniels -

Same problem, same backround! Dont really know what to do! Did you find an answer?

mmummler - Reply

Shouldn't there be a disconnect-battery step, before attempting to remove the screen cable hold-down panel?

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Hi, I managed all the disassembly fine getting all the cables off safely and remembering to take the battery lead off, however now its together the screen works but the digitalizer is very sluggish and feels not as sensitive. You need to put a whole finger on it rather than just your tip. Has anybody had anything similar?

Andrew P - Reply

Hi Andrew, I have the same problem, how did you fix it?

lt33 -

I've read that aftermarket screens react slower. I'm not 100% sure tho, so you'll have to check if that information is correct.

Didier Daniel -

Hi

The last step in screen reassembly, when pressing the bottom Bart of the screen, I broke the lower part of the screen.

Seems like so thing is pushing it up.

Don't know what to do,,,, very !#^&@@ off....

Be careful

eliasgh - Reply

I have the same issue. Did you ever figure out what to do?

Jody -

Is there a guide to replace the glass only?

Marc Hershey - Reply

Don't do it! I strongly discourage! I am in the midst of it and its just not worth it.

Brenda -

You're not going to want to do this Marc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VRnOwyQ...

cazrnbsn -

I took the front screen off to fix some water damage. I put it back together and started charging the phone. I am getting white lines on the screen but the touch screen is not working. Help!

John G - Reply

Sounds like you might have damaged the digitiser where the cable exits. Very easy to do. Happened to me once and I didn't notice at all at the time

rpaschke -

I can't workout if the LCD Screen is glued to the Digitizer, on the phone the LCD is working it's just the front panel... will they separate ?

Wayne Taylor - Reply

LCD is fused to the digitizer. You need to scrape off and rebond the glass if you want to just replace the glass. You need a UV light and UV glue in order to fuse the new glass to the old digitizer. It's easier to just replace the whole thing but it's slightly more expensive to do so.

ryanatakahashi -

They are laminated together at the factory. But with some very expensive tools and the right equipment, it can be done. As you will see on this video, the edges of the glass & digitizer have to be heated and then separated with dental floss and then the adhesive has to be removed with a hot blade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VRnOwyQ...

cazrnbsn -

I didn't take the battery out. I disembaled and reassembled everything carefully without damaging anything but now my phone won't turn on! Is there anything I can do?

csi - Reply

basically IOS 9 made t so if you update your phone with a different fingerprint scanner than your phone came with you get an error 53 upon updating theirs really nothing you can do to help that, just a heads up don't replace Touch ID!

benjigarcia19 - Reply

Followed this guide to replace the broken glass panel on my iPhone 6. I took my time and worked slowly as this was the first iPhone I've ever disassembled. After reading some of the comments, I did disconnect the battery between steps 9 & 10 before doing any of the following procedures. I had some tense moments removing the camera and the home button. They were glued down pretty well, but I eventually got them off. Assembling was pretty easy, but one thing to take notice of is the order of the ribbons attached to the screen. I had to take the camera out twice because the ribbons were not in the correct order to connect back to the power board. Also my home button cord got disconnected when I was putting the case back together. On power-up the button did not work. I had to go back in and remove the plate surrounding those cables and found it was disconnected. I put everything back together and it is working perfectly. No issues with the screen, the cameras, the home button, or the finger print reader. Success!

robstewart - Reply

How did you replace the cables that were in the wrong order? Im having the same problem!

laurensmolic -

So did you use a different Home Button or a replacement? My understanding was that if a replacement is used, then the fingerprint reader will no longer work. The original home button is synced to that phone and no other fingerprint reader will work with it. Just interested. I'm getting ready to do this myself. Have a great day and thanks for posting.

cazrnbsn -

My first tip is if this is your first breakage, and your phone has never been opened, just take it to Apple, it's £79 in the UK, cheaper than buying the screen from most places, and you know it's legit. Onto my SUCCESS, it took a while after numerous minor errors putting it all back together, but after going over the images again, I succeeded. Don't get me wrong, this wasn't a walk in the park, but steady hands and perseverance and you'll get there. For a while I was getting two errors when trying to get it back up and running, and it was stuck in restore mode. I had both 9 and -18 error codes. However, after going back into the iPhone, and popping all the cables off at step 12-15 and then reseating them again. It finally got going again ready for me to test it all. The only other problem was the touch button, but after reseating it a couple of times, I realised I was screwing it up too tight and so finally got it to work. So relieved & happy, but my next iPhone I'm just going straight to Apple.

DanO - Reply

Followed the guide step by step, not a single issue! Thank you!

SMcC21985 - Reply

My first time ever taking apart any phone. Did the fix in about an hour. Be careful with the adhesive on the home button. Mine got a bit mangled and although the button still works like it should, gone is the 'click' sound that it used to have (which I'm actually happy about). Otherwise, great instructions!

david - Reply

I removed my OEM screen then refitted it, and bam! - no more Touch ID :-( Also when the iPhone's screen's gone black (after timeout), it no longer wakes up with the home button!? I have to press the power button now to wake it up, then enter the passcode. Boring!

I then bought a new display online, did the same repair again and replace the screen (with my original home button/camera/mic/speaker etc) and it's still the same: I now have a nice new screen (no longer cracked), but no touch id and no wakeup with home button.

Interestingly, when I try to set up the touch id, it goes to the touch id setup screen, and then immediately gives this error message: "Unable to complete Touch ID setup. Please go back and try again."

Also, when I try updating to OS 9.2.1 (already downloaded), it 'verifies update', then gives this error message: "Unable to Install Update An error occurred installind IOS 9.2.1."

The options are 'Retry' (same result) or 'Remind Me Later'.

Now what!?

naughtyG - Reply

Did you ever remedy this? Had the EXACT same issue and stumped as to why it's occuring - very strange...

Topper -

same for me, moved the original home button to the new screen. all but this is well: my touch id is gone, and no wake up with home button. need to tap power button to wake it up, if the phone has been resting for a while.

omniraal -

Found my error for the same problem: my home button cable had been slightly damaged, i had to look extremely thoroughly on the connector. I bought a new cable and followed the guide here on ifixit.com, and boom: perfect result! Phone is now as good as new!

omniraal -

I changed my screen and now my earpeice does not work, cant here people talking, only can hear on speaker phone. Front camara works and so does the proxy sensor. I might have touched the flex cable connector for those components so i was thinking maybe oil from my finger might be the problem with not hearing people talking. What would be the best way to clean it and see if thats the problem. Or any other ideas would be great .

Greg - Reply

Did you get a resolution to your problem? I am having the same issue. I am thinking maybe I should just buy a new ear piece but wanted to see if there was another option first.

Jennifer Reese -

Thanks!

Worked like a charm with iFixit replacement screen (and a small pack of snacks found in ifixit box). Touch ID came out pretty easy after heating up the glass just a bit and works without issues after replacement.

Pavlo Sulimenko - Reply

Did you replace the Home Button as well? And if you did, did your fingerprint ID work? Or were you able to salvage the original Home Button? I hear that's where all the fingerprint ID issues are coming from. Thanks, Darrell

cazrnbsn -

Question about the battery removal.

I followed the instructions,(which did not include removing the battery). Disassemble went great. Reassemble didn't work so good as my patience is fried and I want to take to a repair store to let them do it. They refused it saying b/c I did not remove the battery, I created an electrical arc and they wouldn't touch it. Before I do it myself, is this true? I see above people also did not remove the battery and it worked fine. Pros? Cons? Advice?

Brenda - Reply

The list of needed tools and parts for this repair could be more clear. The repair kit should be listed at top (it's not listed at all). Also, the repair kit page lists the "iOpener" tool as required but that tool is not used for this repair.

dtype1 - Reply

Followed the guide step by step, not a single issue! I've never replaced or repaired anything on an iPhone before so this was my first try at anything like this. Instructions were great and everything went perfect! Thank you!

troyhowatt - Reply

I replaced the rear lens on my phone. followed the steps to disassemble and reassembled. My phone now won't turn on. But when I plug into PC the PC recognises the phone. No vibrations etc coming from the phone. Tried charging and the camera felt a bit warm. Any ideas?

amyleighox - Reply

I am having a lot of trouble reattaching the cable connectors . They seem to be in the wrong order. Any suggestions??

laurensmolic - Reply

I finished. The first time I assembled everything all was working perfectly except for the earpiece - I couldn't hear anything. I saw on another posted question that someone responded that the gold prongs on the the earpiece had to be aligned "just right", or it wouldn't work. Additionally, the metal cover shouldn't be screwed in too tightly. I realigned and was a little less restrictive with my screw tightening - and now I am up and running. I am so happy! I totally ruined my screen and really was shocked that it still worked. Thank you to everyone who takes the time to give advice and assitance!

Alison - Reply

Yeah, did it and it works!!!! soooooooo happy!!!!!!!

Nina Potenza - Reply

Touch ID stopped working after the replacement. What could be wrong?

lvb - Reply

I dropped my phone several days ago and now the screen won't display anything. My wife has the same phone as I do. I swapped displays with hers and I still didn't get anything. Any idea what else I could check?

Cliff Roebuck - Reply

Hey Cliff. Usually, (if you didn't break your screen) all that has happened is that one of your ribbon cable connections on the inside of the phone has come loose or partially unplugged. There are a lot of other things that could have happened but this is an easy DIY check before you take it to someone who will most assuredly ask for a substantial amout of your hard-earned cash. Now, you will have to order an iPhone repair kit unless you have Pentalobe screwdrivers. But this little tool kit can come in handy for more than just your phone. Here's a video that might help you out if you can tolerate his loud voice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny8mHGHX... .

There are many kits out there but here's something on Amazon for you to gauge by. https://www.amazon.com/Warmstor-Complete...

Good luck to you and let me know if this works for you.

cazrnbsn -

i have a question.

my homebutton cable was broken. so i bought front plate.

and i have original home button too.

so, if i change broken plate and new plate, can i using touch id??

kjh657 - Reply

Yes. If you change the cable on the plate, your Touch ID will still work if it's the original button. It's only when you change the button itself that Touch ID functionality is lost.

Didier Daniel -

Hello all,

Just did this without breaking any cables, or so I thought...

Reassembled everything and phone turned on (success) but I have lost the touch ID capability, the home button still works so I can use the phone but is this a security measure from apple? I used the existing home button.

Thanks

Tom - Reply

First time ever replacing a iPhone 6 lcd and screen, love the pics, you make it very easy to follow!! :-)

apriltanner1975 - Reply

I'm doing a screen replacement with a new screen that doesn't already have the home button cable attached to the digitizer. How do I get the cable from the old screen to the new one so I can connect the home button?

juliamcrae - Reply

Exactly what was expected for an experienced tech.

Excellent guide!!

Thanks Monte

monte - Reply

Completed the guide but my screen is not flush with the body any more. But it was no problem putting it in. TouchID etc. are working fine, it is more in the middle part where the screen has a noticable height (bump). I have the impression it is higher than the original part (the eustore.ifixit.com front cover). But happy that the display works!

Christian van der Leeden - Reply

If the display doesn't properly clip in, be sure all the cables are properly arranged, and make sure your battery hasn't swollen up. If you have issues, don't hesitate to contact EU customer support!

Sam Lionheart -

Is it necessary to buy all parts listed at the top right? I thought only a screen would be needed of that is what has been damaged.

William Mullan - Reply

The parts listed at the top are the parts that can be replaced using this guide. If you're just replacing the screen, you only need to buy the screen =)

Sam Lionheart -

On the *very last step* of disassembly the home button cable would *not* come up. It finally tore. Post mortem analysis showed that it took a *lot* of pressure to remove it -- I don't know how one would get this off without tearing. I am going to go cry now. Bye.

Wayne Cochran - Reply

For the home button, it helps to lift a corner of the gasket from it's adhesive to the phone, then work it up from there. So sorry it tore :(

bwojciehowski -

Hi guys, did this today, all works well except:

- i have some irregular white vertical lines. They come and go

- sometimes I have green dots on the left of the screen. They also come and go (but come more seldom)

- the display looks odd. Just as if the resolution was not the correct one

I tried re-opening and checking the display data connector, it looks like it's in place.

Any idea? All went well except: during re-assembly, the display data and the front camera ribbons got mixed up so for a couple of minutes I was trying to insert the front camera ribbon into the display connector ... Hope I didn't damage it :(

Any help is welcome.

Guillaume Klein - Reply

When re-assembling I accidently switched the front facing connector and the digitizer, which broke the digitizer socket on the main board. Now the phone is bricked. Please notice that you need to guide the digitizer cable under the other cables after mounting the back plate, otherwise it is easy to switch the two long connectors, and then you breake the socket and your phone is dead.

Tom - Reply

Hello, my Iphone 6's screen was broken. I bought a new one.

I read these differents steps but at the end my new screen doesn't work.

I used a torch and i could see the apple, the message very slightly I thought i have a problem with my backlight but i don't know what i can do!!!

I bought another screen but i had the same problem!

Please help me!! thanks

KLEBER - Reply

Good guide for pretty much every step except for removing the home button ribbon cable during the LCD shield plate (step 37) look at dv1997's comment! This is a much easier and safer way of doing things! There is a metal plate which is part of the underside of the ribbon cable which is very difficult to get the spudger under by going under the shield plate. It's much easier to get it from the front using the ribbon cable pull tab on the side.

Thomas Hallett - Reply

A cutter / utility blade can do wonders too :)

Didier Daniel -

Just successfully finished replacing a screen using this guide, for my very first time. In total, it took me three hours, taking breaks in-between and reading through all comments that have been posted.

---

My best advice is to be patient and take your time with each step. The most tedious steps were #22-26 (front camera assembly), #31 (home button) and #37 (home button cable). Be patient and read all comments regarding these steps.

---

During step #37, I did mistakenly disconnect the cable from the metal connector underneath. However, I was able to remove the metal connector and transfer it to the new screen along with the home button cable assembly. Fortunately, touch ID still works, in addition to all standard home button functions. I do think it would be great if iFixIt could add a note about this metal connector during this step; it plays a very important role.

---

I used only tools from the iFixIt "Classic Pro Tech Toolkit", in addition to an iSesamo. I purchased the replacement screen from iFixIt.

TheJB - Reply

Good guide! Everything worked perfectly fine and I had no problems along the way :)

Kamiel Cherlet - Reply

Step 37 was the worst, as there is intact a small metal plate, that comes off with the adhesive, which cannot be seen on the instructions/pictures

but its all working, thanks a lot!

Rich - Reply

Success! Great guides here on Ifixit! With lots of kids I have replaced about 5 screens on various devices. Finally getting the hang of it. I had an issue with the "order" of the ribbon cable when reassembling, but they were easy to "reorder" them without any further disassembly... Just do it carefully and they will be corrected!

Thanks!

Karl - Reply

Front Facing and Rear Facing Camera aren't working.

Everything appears to be working well except when I pull up the camera, all I get is a back-lit black screen, for both the front facing and rear facing camera. Any ideas? I had a hard time getting the front facing camera onto the display properly, but I don't understand how that would effect the rear facing camera.

takjackson - Reply

some of my google searches says something about a jumper might be missing off the logic board, but I can't tell from what I am looking at.

Image: https://imgur.com/a/hJgV1

Other comments suggest putting the original screen back on and testing it, unfortunately that is not an option as my LCD was busted.

takjackson -

I placed the screen flats above the shield, while they have to go under it.. this is the only way the screen stopped flashing.. what is the impact ?

Abdallah Samy - Reply

Thank you amaizing easy to understand. cheers really apreciate it!!!

thecanvasman - Reply

Do you think about it? https://goo.gl/photo...aN8XCYD2D3kwZh7 Very strange.

WAPIK - Reply

Broken link? Strange indeed.

Stephen Missah -

It is always necessary to disconnect the battery. If you don't disconnect the battery, you can blow a filter that is responsible for the back light on the screen.

brittany.nicole111 - Reply

I have next the same problem. All sensor is clean, good position. I dont know what is problem.

WAPIK -

I have a broken screen. I have a non-working phone that is an exact replica.

1. Can I exchange the entire fronts, without removing the glass? Just swap the entire unit?

2. How does this effect Touch ID? In expect the old fingerprint ID's would die, but can I add them again so they work?

Thank you.

SlotcarBob - Reply

If you want to retain touch-id functionality, you'll have to transfer the original Touch-ID hardware to your new display assembly.

Lance J -

I've successfully changed my screen but I still have those white horizontal lines as mentioned in step 17. I've tried reconnecting the display data cable but it didn't change anything :(

The lines are located right at the bottom of the screen.

Thanks for your help!

Adrien Simon - Reply

Everything went smooth, but I have light leak on top, only when screen is attached to rest of phone. Problem doesn't exists when testing screen outside backcase, phone is not bended, original screen was fine. Any ideas?

https://goo.gl/rA7gCo

maclaw - Reply

CARE WITH ATTACHMENT FOR HOME BUTTON! My home button cable connector was fused to the gold connector bars beneath at step 30 (gold bars attached to the LCD shield plate) so my home button doesn't work now. I tried to separate gently with the spudger but it just damaged. If you are in this situation, I suggest removing all the 7 screws at step 35 and lifting the home button, home button cable connector and the LCD shield plate as one unit. This worked but I had already damaged the connector cable from its attachment.

IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR HOME BUTTON FUNCTION, in settings, general, accessibility, AssistiveTouch allows a moveable "home" button on the touch screen.

Hope that helps someone.

ebeck_ - Reply

I just replaced a front assembly with the home button connector so stiffly attached that the tab to the left of it broke off while trying to lift it. This happened while resting the display on a very hot iOpener. Some phones simply have a much stronger adhesive. My only advice is to gently prod at the connector from the left with the sharp pointy end of a spudger until it eventually comes lose. In this situation, I was eventually able to lift the connector off undamaged, but I feel like it could've been easier the way you've mentioned, by keeping the two parts of the connector together!

drpotter -

If I remove the home button from the old front panel and just put it on the new front panel will it save the fingerprint function.

Antonio the Tinker - Reply

In a word: yes.

Jeff Suovanen -

I've tried everything imaginable to get Touch ID to work. I've been informed by Apple that Touch ID needs to be reset by an Apple technician for the cost of a screen repair ($129) or "other damage" ($299). Can anyone confirm, or is there a magic potion for this?

jaskegreen - Reply

If your Touch ID (home button) hardware is damaged, only Apple can replace it and restore fingerprint functions—the sensor is keyed to your phone at the factory, and no other sensor will work without help from Apple. This is by design, and prevents people from compromising the security of the system by simply replacing the sensor. So yes, if that's your situation, Apple is your only option. (You can replace a damaged home button, but it will only ever work as a home button—no Touch ID.)

Jeff Suovanen -

Great instructions. A bit worried at times, when putting the screen back together but all works great. Thanks

Ashley Green - Reply

I have a question! before I decided to change my LCD screen myself, I took it to a place that told me they could fix my "no response touch screen" problem, they didn´t then offered to replace it for like a million dollars so I decided to do it myself since I have replaced the battery myself on an old iphone many years ago, the thing is when I opened it following all the instructions, I found that the EMI shield (front panel assembly cable bracket) with all the five screws, the one that covers the flex cables, all missing!! so I went ahead and changed it anyway and closed the iphone back up, still no response on the touch screen, the phone turned on and everything, is it possible that the reason my phone is not working is that is missing the EMI shield? on other forums I read that it should work anyway, help please

Dr. Drea - Reply

I'm a noob but, wow! This is a good guide. However, i have a missing screw, idk what it is, went back and checked, had everything, but, oh well. Also left pink protector on back of lcd but everything fit, so, cool?

Aiden Jacob - Reply

Beautiful step by step! Take your time though… it felt i was preforming surgery

mikeyb540 - Reply

the whole repair was quite straightforward. these alternative instructions were helpful at points: http://www.instructables.com/id/iPhone-6... as was this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh-cbErz...

before finishing the last step of pushing the screen back into the body of the phone, I turned it on and checked all of the functions - the camera, the light sensor and the touch pad. The touch pad wasn’t working, so I turned it off again, and re-seated the home button cable. when i started it up again, it worked properly. Thank you IFIXIT.COM! and many thanks to all of the other folks who commented here.

banderson - Reply

so I’m about to purchase this iFixit replacement display to repair my wifes iPhone 6 that she’s just dropped and smashed the screen. Am I going to have problems with touch ID not working with the new display? The current home button is still working fine, but I’m concerned if when repairing the phone the new screen causes the touch ID to stop working. Any comments

Matt - Reply

It works fine! :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef7HnSjJ... - I’d advice following this too when putting the phone together because the above missed out a few steps

Stephen Missah -

NOTE/WARNING:

These instructions don’t mention the lens and proximity sensor holder/supports. Don’t forget to take them off your old front panel! I would recommend following this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef7HnSjJ... when putting your device back together. Simply doing the above in reverse is not enough!!!

Stephen Missah - Reply

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