iPhone 5s Front Panel Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the cracked or broken screen on your iPhone 5s.

Use this guide to replace the cracked or broken screen on your iPhone 5s by swapping out the front panel.

The front panel does not include the home button, front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, or the LCD shield plate.

Relevant Parts

Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on step 8.

Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • During the next few steps, until you remove the front panel assembly, keep it supported at a 90º angle in relation to the rear case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.3 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Finally, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 17 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

  • Remove the two screws securing the upper component bracket:

    • 4.0 mm Phillips #000

    • 2.3 mm Phillips #000

  • It is imperative that the right screws are inserted into their respective holes. Otherwise it may cause severe damage to the LCD during reassembly.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Orientate the phone as shown, with the home button on top and the earpiece speaker on bottom.

  • Gently dislodge the clip, near the bottom left corner of the earpiece speaker bracket, outwards from its recess on the front panel assembly.

  • Do not pry with excessive force, as the earpiece speaker bracket is fragile and malleable.

  • With a set of tweezers, shift the bracket to the left to unclip it.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the bracket from the display.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the earpiece speaker with a set of tweezers.

  • If you use your fingers, be very careful not to touch the gold contacts on the front panel. Finger oil can prevent good contact.

Edit Step 21 Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21 Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable  ¶ 

  • This step requires removing the front facing camera and sensor cable from your front panel assembly.

  • The front facing camera and sensor cable is adhered to the display assembly with mild adhesive.

  • Using an iOpener to soften the adhesive will help safely remove it. Follow our iOpener instructions to use it.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Using the edge of a set of tweezers or a metal spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below.

  • Only pry directly under the earpiece speaker contacts—there are sensors and microchips that can be damaged by prying elsewhere.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor and proximity sensor out of their recess in the display assembly.

  • There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

  • If replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the front-facing camera portion of the cable away from the display assembly.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the cable assembly off of the LCD shield plate to remove it from the display.

  • Be careful not to grab the digitizer cable while peeling up the front facing camera and sensor assembly cable.

Edit Step 26 Home Button Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26 Home Button Assembly  ¶ 

  • Unscrew the single captive Phillips #000 screw securing the home button cable.

  • The captive screw is fastened to the home button cable by a spring contact backing. During reassembly, ensure the contact is in the correct orientation—on the side of the screw nearest the LCD.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Fold the home button cable down, out of the way of the home button bracket.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the home button bracket.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the home button bracket from the display assembly.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Wedge the the tip of a spudger underneath the home button cable assembly.

  • The home button cable is affixed by mild adhesive.

  • Gently work the spudger underneath the cable to separate the home button cable from the front panel assembly.

  • Do not remove the home button yet, as it is still attached to the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the tape over the home button on the front side of your cracked front panel assembly.

  • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free, so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.

Edit Step 34 Front Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the back of the display assembly.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

  • To avoid stripping the final screw, it may be helpful to first slightly loosen all four screws before removing any.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

  • Front panel remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5s device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

FYI Vibrate motor

Just did one of these last night, worked perfectly except that the vibrate motor stopped working, took it back apart and realized that the little prong on the ear speaker cover sometimes gets bent a little with removal. I just pushed it back in and the vibrate motor then had enough room to work again. Make sure that you push it back in all the way first time unless you want to do more work than you have to! These phones have no space to spare!

Adrianne, · Reply

For some reason after doing this the home button seems to have sunk and requires a much much harder press for it to work. I think it's the adhesive? Any ideas?

Andrew G, · Reply

If the rubber gasket is not seated correctly, it may have wrinkle in it, thus hindering is action.

Fausto Lebron,

During reassembly be very, VERY careful when pressing the display assembly into the rear frame. Many displays are damaged because the phone was dropped and the rear frame hit a hard surface. The rear frame may be slightly bent or out of shape. When pressing the new display in place it might not fit easily and applying even light pressure can BREAK the new display assembly (I know from experience). Supper lame to get literally to the very last step and crack the new display. %&*#!!!

kevindfrye, · Reply

I just finished replacing a 5S screen and everything seems to be working great except the touch ID function. I was extremely careful and nothing was ripped or torn. All the above steps were followed exactly. The home button functions perfectly but the scanner isn't responding at all. It doesn't even an error fingerprint......you put your finger on and nothing happens at all. I'm not sure if this means I just didn't secure the connector correctly or if something else is wrong. Any ideas?! Thanks!

johnmclaughlin86, · Reply

John, I am a repair tech at a local phone fixing shop. You may have already fixed it, but after checking if its clipped in, do a hard reset at least 2-3 times. That's ALWAYS fixed it for me if the connector is securely fastened.

chubutta,

Touch ID was not working after screen replacement. When went into settings> touch ID & Passcode and turned iphone unlock on it would show failure. After doing a hard reset it worked perfectly.

MatthewPhipps,

I get a lot of flickering after replacement on the screens after doing 5s repairs. Is this do to defective LCDs or bad technique? I have been working with cell phones for a long time...but the amount of flickering screens I have been dealing with when doing 5s and 5c repairs is large. Any suggestions?

sachock, · Reply

Did this last night. Very smooth process. It's advice on being careful around the home button removal is true. I took my time with it as the membrane is super thin. I also transferred the clear front camera plastic riser piece it was easy but not referenced in the guide

boss302beav, · Reply

Thanks for the warning y'all about the ambient light sensor and fitting the screen down without breaking it. I also used the camera riser and the other "riser" for whatever was right next to the light sensor? Either way I transferred them to the new screen and made sure each piece went in order from lowest to highest. EVERYTHING works! My screen was so cracked I actually had to pick out pieces because the suction cup wouldn't stick, that was fun. My advice.... GO SLOW! look around before you yanking things off. and finally put things back in order, it sounds elementary but if you do each of these things you should be fine. God Luck!

Nick H, · Reply

after everything that i done, the serene has many lines on it. feels suck

yma14, · Reply

I completed the screen replacement but now the iPhone is not charging at all. It shows the battery logo when plugged in at a thin red line and did not move witha whole night of being plugged in. Do I need to recheck something ?

Murali Varadarajan, · Reply

I followed this guide and it all worked perfectly. You really do need to be careful when lifting the screen, as the ribbon cable is fragile. Also, I did move the front camera raiser from the old screen to the replacement screen, which was not mentioned in the guide but was mentioned by boss302beav, so thanks for the tip.

Adam, · Reply

Hi, work as a technician for a phone store and I have been fixing phones and computer for about 3 years now, last week I changed an LCD on an iPhone 5s and the screen just turns blue when it's coming on, the apple logo shows up but it doesn't come on just go blue and reboot anyone had this problem before please let me know thanks.

T3chboii, · Reply

What should I do if the screen is so horribly cracked that I can't good suction to lift the front?

Nate G, · Reply

My screen was shattered spectacularly. I used two overlapping pieces of clear package tape to make a smooth surface, and I was able to open it easily using the iSclack. I believe the iSclack also comes with iPhone-sized adhesive tape strips for exactly this purpose.

davisjan,

Put clear packing tape on the screen.

ohara44,

Put masking tape on the glass and it should allow you to use the suction cup as usual.

pokeefe,

If you want the same quality parts but cheaper prices? Go to saintphoneshop.com! They have the same Retina Display. No discoloration, No dead pixels, and no scratches whatsoever. Hurry and get 10% off with the coupon "take10" (without the quotes)

Nick, · Reply

As some others stated, I did not remove the cable assembly from the shield either. It looks like it would be difficult to do without tearing.

Since I don't have a microwave, I couldn't use an iOpener. Instead I put a hair dryer on high and aimed it at the front of the screen for about 10 minute and was able to pop everything off. If you do this, don't do it near where you've taken the phone apart since the hair dryer will happily blow the screws you need for re-assembly far away.

When Re-assembling the whole thing, there are tabs at the top of the screen that need to fit into the top of the metal case for the whole thing to close. I found this to be one of the trickier parts - if they don't engage properly, and the rest of the case seats, the screen doesn't lie flat and you need to go back to the suction cup to separate it again. Look at the inside top of the old screen under a bright light before doing this and it will be easier to understand how it engages.

storminmike, · Reply

1. Make sure you have eye sight a surgeon would be jealous of, you will need it. It's difficult to believe how small those screws are till you get them out.

2. Buy the suction pliers. I tried the one suction cup and by God's grace didn't rip the cable right out. It was MUCH tighter than I imagined. I was being super careful and still it popped off with tremendous force. The clip flew off and amazingly the cable didn't snap.

3. Bright light, magnetic pad for the screws and lots of care you can do it.

RG Murray, · Reply

I completed the repair successfully, I did have problems trying to lift the cracked screen with the suction cup, one trick I did do was using a small paperclip inserted into the pentalobe screw hole and rocking it upwards to help lift the screen, once I got it lifted slightly I was able to insert the spudger into the bottom left were there is a small indentation that looks like it is used specifically for prying up on. I was able to then lift the screen up without using the suction cup.

ray g, · Reply

This guide worked very well! The hardest part was getting the front panel off using the suction cup. It was very hard to get a tight seal on a cracked screen. After that I got the rest! If you don't have an iOpener, a hair dryer works really well.

arustrugger, · Reply

I was very careful but not prepared for the force required to open the phone. I tore the home button cable and now have no touch ID. The iSclack would have been worth it, really wish I had purchased it. I had not realized that it's huge advantage was to prevent you from opening the phone all the way and tearing the cable I tore... The right tool for the job is always the right tool. Get it. Phone works great now, after getting a new home button and opening it another 2 times to properly seat the connectors. I could have sworn they were in. Do miss touch ID though....

Cornforth, · Reply

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg, · Reply

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews,

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm, · Reply

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul,

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414, · Reply

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys,

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan, · Reply

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari, · Reply

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin, · Reply

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr, · Reply

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor, · Reply

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE, · Reply

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat,

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat, · Reply

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob, · Reply

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs, · Reply

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Johnny Dopp, · Reply

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii, · Reply

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

boxav8r, · Reply

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera, · Reply

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Matt Endress, · Reply

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

jonl,

If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

Dan Dascalescu, · Reply

In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

Robert Colvin, · Reply

Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

ndauphin583, · Reply

People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

Hernan, · Reply

Hernan,

I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

Thank you,

sachock, · Reply

I got stuck on this step for a while. The cable itself is really thin and I thought it had a piece of plastic underneath it but this is actually part of the display assembly and not the cable.

warren5236, · Reply

Yeah, I kept applying more heat only to realize the same thing. The gold contacts are sitting on a very thin flexible plastic strip that you need to peel up.

jonl,

This step doesn't give complete information.

The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

mikemckinnon, · Reply

Hello! I dont know why but I cant make the proximity sensor work. My front camera is working... I don't know what i'm doing wrong, can you help me with that?

jesusbe,

Under the proximity sensor, there is an little white sticker.

You have to put this on to the new screen,

otherwise the proximity sensor will not work properly.

To get it off, try to heat the spot (for example with the iOpener).

FaKlein, · Reply

Yep, brilliant piece of advice. I would have missed the white diffusing paper if not for this comment. Thanks!

jonl,

proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

osmanalpay, · Reply

I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

kevindfrye, · Reply

Indeed. I just did one today and realized it would have been fine to leave it. Better even.

Paul Jerome,

Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

pbpope,

Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

aaron, · Reply

I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark, · Reply

Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

eriwolde, · Reply

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

Marshall, · Reply

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kent, · Reply

Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

leanit, · Reply

Agreed - you don't need to do this step

kevinhay, · Reply

Also skipped this step.

jonl, · Reply

The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

Nathan, · Reply

Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

Sumit Bhatnagar, · Reply

I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

mrnoxious,

Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

Bryan, · Reply

I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

Andrew, · Reply

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