Introduction

Use this guide to replace the cracked or broken screen on your iPhone 5s by swapping out the front panel.

The front panel does not include the home button, front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, or the LCD shield plate. If the part you purchased includes those parts, follow this guide to replace the display assembly instead.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Video Overview

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Reply

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Reply

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.
  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/3: Regardless of the tool you use, '''you need to be sure you pull up the entire display'''.
  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

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Image 1/3: Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.
  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Reply

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

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Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Reply

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Reply

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Reply

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Reply

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Reply

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Reply

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Reply

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Reply

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Reply

Image 1/1: Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.
  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Reply

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Reply

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Reply

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Reply

Image 1/2: Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. '''Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.'''
  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

  • During reassembly, be sure to orient the bracket so that the single-prong side faces the bottom of the phone and the side with two slits faces the battery.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Reply

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Reply

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

Image 1/2: Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.
  • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, and the front must latch down over the connector.

  • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

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Image 1/2: If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

  • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Reply

Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

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Image 1/1: One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

      • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Reply

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

so these are wrong?:

http://www.iphonebits.co.uk/wp-content/u...

https://blogetechparts.files.wordpress.c...

As they suggest the long screws go on the left...

holvoetsteve -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Reply

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Reply

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Reply

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Johnny Dopp - Reply

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Reply

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Reply

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Reply

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Reply

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Reply

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Reply

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Image 1/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

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Image 1/2:
  • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Reply

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Reply

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Reply

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Reply

Image 1/1: 4.0 mm Phillips #000
  • Remove the two screws securing the upper component bracket:

    • 4.0 mm Phillips #000

    • 2.3 mm Phillips #000

  • It is imperative that the right screws are inserted into their respective holes. Otherwise it may cause severe damage to the LCD during reassembly.

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Image 1/3: Gently dislodge the clip, near the bottom left corner of the earpiece speaker bracket, outwards from its recess on the front panel assembly.
  • Orient the phone as shown, with the home button on top and the earpiece speaker on bottom.

  • Gently dislodge the clip, near the bottom left corner of the earpiece speaker bracket, outwards from its recess on the front panel assembly.

  • Do not pry with excessive force, as the earpiece speaker bracket is fragile and malleable.

  • With a set of tweezers, shift the bracket to the left to unclip it.

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Matt Endress - Reply

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

jonl -

So the ear speaker in the new screen/digitizer is not real and I have to put the original camera, sensor, etc in?

raveencarter - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the bracket from the display.

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Image 1/2: If you use your fingers, be very careful not to touch the gold contacts on the front panel. Finger oil can prevent good contact.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker with a set of tweezers.

  • If you use your fingers, be very careful not to touch the gold contacts on the front panel. Finger oil can prevent good contact.

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Image 1/3: Place the earpiece speaker bracket over the speaker so that it fits snugly in its housing.
  • To replace the earpiece speaker, it is easiest to install the speaker and bracket together:

    • Place the earpiece speaker bracket over the speaker so that it fits snugly in its housing.

    • Slide the left hook of the bracket into the notch above the top left corner of the front facing camera.

    • Rotate the bracket so it lays flat on the rear case, aligning the two screw holes. Press the bracket into place, ensuring the hook on the right side of the metal bracket latches onto the display.

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Image 1/1: The front facing camera and sensor cable is adhered to the display assembly with mild adhesive.
  • This step requires removing the front facing camera and sensor cable from your front panel assembly.

  • The front facing camera and sensor cable is adhered to the display assembly with mild adhesive.

  • Using an iOpener to soften the adhesive will help safely remove it. Follow our iOpener instructions to use it.

If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

Dan Dascalescu - Reply

In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

Robert Colvin - Reply

Robert -You were able to lift the camera just by itself? I would think the cable doesn't have any extra slack to allow the camera to move without detaching the cable on one end.

Paul Astrachan -

Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

ndauphin583 - Reply

Image 1/2: '''Only pry directly under the earpiece speaker contacts'''—there are sensors and microchips that can be damaged by prying elsewhere.
  • Using the edge of a set of tweezers or a metal spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below.

  • Only pry directly under the earpiece speaker contacts—there are sensors and microchips that can be damaged by prying elsewhere.

People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

Hernan - Reply

Hernan,

I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

Thank you,

sachock - Reply

I got stuck on this step for a while. The cable itself is really thin and I thought it had a piece of plastic underneath it but this is actually part of the display assembly and not the cable.

warren5236 - Reply

Yeah, I kept applying more heat only to realize the same thing. The gold contacts are sitting on a very thin flexible plastic strip that you need to peel up.

jonl -

Image 1/2: There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor and proximity sensor out of their recess in the display assembly.

  • There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

  • If replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

This step doesn't give complete information.

The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

mikemckinnon - Reply

Hello! I dont know why but I cant make the proximity sensor work. My front camera is working... I don't know what i'm doing wrong, can you help me with that?

jesusbe -

Under the proximity sensor, there is an little white sticker.

You have to put this on to the new screen,

otherwise the proximity sensor will not work properly.

To get it off, try to heat the spot (for example with the iOpener).

FaKlein - Reply

Yep, brilliant piece of advice. I would have missed the white diffusing paper if not for this comment. Thanks!

jonl -

proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

osmanalpay - Reply

Image 1/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the front-facing camera portion of the cable away from the display assembly.

When reassembling, I found an unknown, small black plastic piece on my work surface. It wasn't anything that I'd removed in any step. It had a curved section and a small tab, the whole thing was less that 1/4". Nothing in any of the instructions mentions it.

I finally figured out it was supposed to go just to the right (while looking at the open back of the screen unit) of the hole where the camera fits. The semi circle hugs the side of the camera when you reinstall.

This had me going nuts for about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info can help you avoid that.

Mike Yagi - Reply

Image 1/3: Carefully peel the cable assembly off of the LCD shield plate to remove it from the display.
  • If you are reattaching the same shield plate to a new display, there is no need to peel the cable assembly off the LCD shield plate. Skip this step.

  • Carefully peel the cable assembly off of the LCD shield plate to remove it from the display.

  • Be careful not to grab the digitizer cable while peeling up the front facing camera and sensor assembly cable.

I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

kevindfrye - Reply

Indeed. I just did one today and realized it would have been fine to leave it. Better even.

Paul Jerome -

Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

pbpope -

Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

aaron - Reply

I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark - Reply

Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

eriwolde - Reply

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

Marshall - Reply

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kent - Reply

Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

leanit - Reply

Agreed - you don't need to do this step

kevinhay - Reply

Also skipped this step.

jonl - Reply

I tore mine also...wish I would have come here and read these helpful tips first.

Michael Huber - Reply

The copper sticker is some kind of ground connection, and is therefore probably very important given the frequencies present inside the phone, and that the phone is itself a radio transmitter and receiver. I too followed the instructions and removed it but I was super careful and didn't tear it, and was able to reattach it. I used the spudger to smooth it and ensure that it makes good contact with the shield. It didn't even occur to me to skip the removal step! But I agree with that advice.

Mark Cousins - Reply

Image 1/2: The captive screw is fastened to the home button cable by a spring contact backing. During reassembly, ensure the contact is in the correct orientation—on the side of the screw nearest the LCD.
  • Unscrew the single captive Phillips #000 screw securing the home button cable.

  • The captive screw is fastened to the home button cable by a spring contact backing. During reassembly, ensure the contact is in the correct orientation—on the side of the screw nearest the LCD.

  • If your replacement part does not have this captive screw and spring contact, you will need to transfer them to the new cable.

The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

Nathan - Reply

Hi,

The home button doesn't work ?

Help

Sultan - Reply

BE CAREFUL HERE.

This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

Ben - Reply

Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

easleyjs - Reply

Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

wilsonmichaelpatrick - Reply

Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

Chris91177 - Reply

Image 1/2:
  • Fold the home button cable down, out of the way of the home button bracket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the home button bracket.

Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

Sumit Bhatnagar - Reply

I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

mrnoxious -

Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

Bryan - Reply

I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

Andrew - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the home button bracket from the display assembly.

For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

larscmueller - Reply

Image 1/2: The home button cable is affixed by mild adhesive.
  • Wedge the the tip of a spudger underneath the home button cable assembly.

  • The home button cable is affixed by mild adhesive.

  • Gently work the spudger underneath the cable to separate the home button cable from the front panel assembly.

  • Do not remove the home button yet, as it is still attached to the front panel assembly.

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Image 1/2: Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.
  • If necessary, remove the tape over the home button on the front side of your cracked front panel assembly.

  • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free, so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.

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Image 1/2:
  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the back of the display assembly.

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Image 1/2: To avoid stripping the final screw, it may be helpful to first slightly loosen all four screws before removing any.
  • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

  • To avoid stripping the final screw, it may be helpful to first slightly loosen all four screws before removing any.

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Image 1/2: Front panel remains.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

  • Front panel remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

620 other people completed this guide.

46 Comments

FYI Vibrate motor

Just did one of these last night, worked perfectly except that the vibrate motor stopped working, took it back apart and realized that the little prong on the ear speaker cover sometimes gets bent a little with removal. I just pushed it back in and the vibrate motor then had enough room to work again. Make sure that you push it back in all the way first time unless you want to do more work than you have to! These phones have no space to spare!

Adrianne - Reply

For some reason after doing this the home button seems to have sunk and requires a much much harder press for it to work. I think it's the adhesive? Any ideas?

Andrew G - Reply

If the rubber gasket is not seated correctly, it may have wrinkle in it, thus hindering is action.

Fausto Lebron -

During reassembly be very, VERY careful when pressing the display assembly into the rear frame. Many displays are damaged because the phone was dropped and the rear frame hit a hard surface. The rear frame may be slightly bent or out of shape. When pressing the new display in place it might not fit easily and applying even light pressure can BREAK the new display assembly (I know from experience). Supper lame to get literally to the very last step and crack the new display. %&*#!!!

kevindfrye - Reply

just happened to me i also got reboot logo stuck

arley alaniz -

I just finished replacing a 5S screen and everything seems to be working great except the touch ID function. I was extremely careful and nothing was ripped or torn. All the above steps were followed exactly. The home button functions perfectly but the scanner isn't responding at all. It doesn't even an error fingerprint......you put your finger on and nothing happens at all. I'm not sure if this means I just didn't secure the connector correctly or if something else is wrong. Any ideas?! Thanks!

johnmclaughlin86 - Reply

John, I am a repair tech at a local phone fixing shop. You may have already fixed it, but after checking if its clipped in, do a hard reset at least 2-3 times. That's ALWAYS fixed it for me if the connector is securely fastened.

chubutta -

Touch ID was not working after screen replacement. When went into settings> touch ID & Passcode and turned iphone unlock on it would show failure. After doing a hard reset it worked perfectly.

MatthewPhipps -

I get a lot of flickering after replacement on the screens after doing 5s repairs. Is this do to defective LCDs or bad technique? I have been working with cell phones for a long time...but the amount of flickering screens I have been dealing with when doing 5s and 5c repairs is large. Any suggestions?

sachock - Reply

could be because of resetting the connectors a lot. it will eventually go away

Joe Hernandez -

Did this last night. Very smooth process. It's advice on being careful around the home button removal is true. I took my time with it as the membrane is super thin. I also transferred the clear front camera plastic riser piece it was easy but not referenced in the guide

boss302beav - Reply

Thanks for the warning y'all about the ambient light sensor and fitting the screen down without breaking it. I also used the camera riser and the other "riser" for whatever was right next to the light sensor? Either way I transferred them to the new screen and made sure each piece went in order from lowest to highest. EVERYTHING works! My screen was so cracked I actually had to pick out pieces because the suction cup wouldn't stick, that was fun. My advice.... GO SLOW! look around before you yanking things off. and finally put things back in order, it sounds elementary but if you do each of these things you should be fine. God Luck!

Nick H - Reply

after everything that i done, the serene has many lines on it. feels suck

yma14 - Reply

Check the LCD connection. Do a hard reset.

Josh Bacon -

I completed the screen replacement but now the iPhone is not charging at all. It shows the battery logo when plugged in at a thin red line and did not move witha whole night of being plugged in. Do I need to recheck something ?

Murali Varadarajan - Reply

hard reset by holding power and home until iphone reboots

Ethan Chow -

I followed this guide and it all worked perfectly. You really do need to be careful when lifting the screen, as the ribbon cable is fragile. Also, I did move the front camera raiser from the old screen to the replacement screen, which was not mentioned in the guide but was mentioned by boss302beav, so thanks for the tip.

Adam - Reply

Hi, work as a technician for a phone store and I have been fixing phones and computer for about 3 years now, last week I changed an LCD on an iPhone 5s and the screen just turns blue when it's coming on, the apple logo shows up but it doesn't come on just go blue and reboot anyone had this problem before please let me know thanks.

T3chboii - Reply

re: 'blue screen' -- not a guaranteed workaround, but sometimes works to remove the EFI shield altogether if the order/size of the screws is forgotten/lost... Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

What should I do if the screen is so horribly cracked that I can't good suction to lift the front?

Nate G - Reply

My screen was shattered spectacularly. I used two overlapping pieces of clear package tape to make a smooth surface, and I was able to open it easily using the iSclack. I believe the iSclack also comes with iPhone-sized adhesive tape strips for exactly this purpose.

davisjan -

Put clear packing tape on the screen.

ohara44 -

Put masking tape on the glass and it should allow you to use the suction cup as usual.

pokeefe -

As some others stated, I did not remove the cable assembly from the shield either. It looks like it would be difficult to do without tearing.

Since I don't have a microwave, I couldn't use an iOpener. Instead I put a hair dryer on high and aimed it at the front of the screen for about 10 minute and was able to pop everything off. If you do this, don't do it near where you've taken the phone apart since the hair dryer will happily blow the screws you need for re-assembly far away.

When Re-assembling the whole thing, there are tabs at the top of the screen that need to fit into the top of the metal case for the whole thing to close. I found this to be one of the trickier parts - if they don't engage properly, and the rest of the case seats, the screen doesn't lie flat and you need to go back to the suction cup to separate it again. Look at the inside top of the old screen under a bright light before doing this and it will be easier to understand how it engages.

storminmike - Reply

1. Make sure you have eye sight a surgeon would be jealous of, you will need it. It's difficult to believe how small those screws are till you get them out.

2. Buy the suction pliers. I tried the one suction cup and by God's grace didn't rip the cable right out. It was MUCH tighter than I imagined. I was being super careful and still it popped off with tremendous force. The clip flew off and amazingly the cable didn't snap.

3. Bright light, magnetic pad for the screws and lots of care you can do it.

RG Murray - Reply

I completed the repair successfully, I did have problems trying to lift the cracked screen with the suction cup, one trick I did do was using a small paperclip inserted into the pentalobe screw hole and rocking it upwards to help lift the screen, once I got it lifted slightly I was able to insert the spudger into the bottom left were there is a small indentation that looks like it is used specifically for prying up on. I was able to then lift the screen up without using the suction cup.

ray g - Reply

This guide worked very well! The hardest part was getting the front panel off using the suction cup. It was very hard to get a tight seal on a cracked screen. After that I got the rest! If you don't have an iOpener, a hair dryer works really well.

arustrugger - Reply

I was very careful but not prepared for the force required to open the phone. I tore the home button cable and now have no touch ID. The iSclack would have been worth it, really wish I had purchased it. I had not realized that it's huge advantage was to prevent you from opening the phone all the way and tearing the cable I tore... The right tool for the job is always the right tool. Get it. Phone works great now, after getting a new home button and opening it another 2 times to properly seat the connectors. I could have sworn they were in. Do miss touch ID though....

Cornforth - Reply

replaced Iphone 5s front panel. Cables attached easy, most everything was smooth disassembling and reassembling, but I could power up my cracked phone before, I cannot power it up now. Checked cables twice, not sure what the problem could be. Any suggestions?

docchameleon - Reply

I completed this installation using this guide which was very helpful. However, the touch screen only works for a few minutes after the first start up. Works very smoothly for awhile, then the touch gets very insensitive, then no response on the touch.

I've reassembled it again making sure the ribbons are firmly connected. Again, it only works for a few minutes.

Any tips?

pedo1337 - Reply

Good guide!:-)

Toni Palmer - Reply

Ok.. I managed to successfully replace the cracked screen of my phone but.... the new scream has a lighter/yellowish halo in the upper-right corner... just below the bluetooth icon.

At first I thought it was maybe a poor quality replacement screen.. then I realised that it happened only when the screen is fully pushed in the phone case. I tried a few times to detach again the screen from the main body, and push it back again.. when detached it looks good enough, when pushed it the halo appears again... any clue if I might have done anything wrong or it's just a bad screen?

thanks!

guidoz80 - Reply

Sounds like maybe something is pressing against the LCD? Make sure there's nothing pressing against that corner of the phone, check cable routing and adhesive, etc. If you're still having issues, you may want to check out our Answers forum! Good luck =)

Sam Lionheart -

I did that fix this weekend, For me the most difficult part was to remove the Upr speaker, front camera and looms assembly and to put it back in place prorperly on the new front panel. After re-installing everything, I recommmend to test on the screen to see if there is any trouble with the phone on (as mentioned in the guide I had some white lines, so I went back to plug again the connector. Finally the front speaker was propably damaged during the re-assembly as it is now working but with distorsion in the caller voice ! I guess headset and bluetooth devices will do from now on !

Benoit Manfreo - Reply

It was the first time I tried to repair such an electronic device. Only managed it with the information given in the forum. Great job, thank you all! The display stayed black after the first re-assembly and the hint to disconnect the battery did the trick! Thanks again!

Barbara Brandner - Reply

Does anyone encountered the issue that the touch screen is not working when placing iphone on an insulation surface?

ztong - Reply

Managed to replace the screen following the above guide no problems. Still have them vertical lines (tried reconnecting LCD cable, disconnecting battery and several hard starts) and only other problem is my battery is now draining. Any ideas? Used to last at least a day, now I'm lucky if it lasts 6 hours. You can almost see it draining away.

Diane Stevens - Reply

Just completed the replacement of my screen. The guide was very helpful as well as watching the video. To keep all the screws organized, I just drew a large picture of the inside of the phone on a piece of paper and made loops of clear packing tape and put them over the areas where I was going to remove parts. That way I could make sure each screw went back into the proper place. Took about an hour from start to finish. One tiny glitch, the screen isn't perfectly snugly down at the top of the phone, there is a little play. It is tight everywhere else. Oh well, no biggie. All good now.

Ed Colman - Reply

I have a problem with the battery swelled 5s and the display was put in coores stripes etc , and when opened, deconectarlo no longer start. there any way to recover the flex cable?

InfoMario - Reply

The part I worried about the most was removing the Home button but it turned out that was quite easy as long as you took your time removing the gasket from the panel assembly. I did not even use any kind of heat, I just SLOWLY pushed on the button from the opposite side to loosen one corner. The rest of the gasket came off pretty easily. The hardest part by far was getting the front-facing camera, ambient sensor, and proximity sensor back in place during re-assembly. Getting these small parts in the right places took about an hour and was the most frustrating part of the entire process. The 2nd hardest part was reconnecting the Home button cable to its socket. At this point the phone case is just partly open and there is very little space to work with. Once everything was back together, I discovered the screen wasn't responding to touch commands. I had to reopen the phone and reconnect the digitizer cable (it was loose). All appears to working fine. Total time was about 3.5 hours.

Tony Sambrano - Reply

I lost the white pad for the proximity sensor is it ok if I forget about it and move on?

Cody Lavin - Reply

I've made this repair three times so far, and it is only this last time that I realized that step 31 (peeling flex cable from shield) was/is not needed. If you are removing the whole shield anyway and relocating it to your new screen+digitizer, it naturally will come with it.

One word of advice. The magnatized phillips head screwdriver is your friend for removing and installing screws. Using it allows you to pick up and place screws with less chance of losing it. Using tweezers has caused those tiny screws to jump away from me like mexican jumping beans, and they can jump very, very far. There is only one screw that is not magnetic, it's near the compass, and is installed in the square sheild that covers the three flex cables. The screw is located at the north east corner of the shield.

If you have the tools and take your time, and read and watch the videos, this is a fairly easy and straight forward repair.

tonemontone - Reply

I replaced my screen and everything was right until I turned it on. There are white lines from the top to the bottom. The screen is dark but everything works.

Jorge Gamarra - Reply

I removed the front panel, but don't see the battery have a plate, the home button stays on the case. Model A1533, so iphone 5s. Really don't know what to do from here?

Jean Sebastien Chasle - Reply

After refitting everything, the apple logo appairs and then nothing happens, but only after fitting it to a charger. Any ideas of what casues this?

simplyblake - Reply

This guide doesn't mention anything about the extreme likeliness of having to restore the phone due to this procedure... didn't back up phone prior to the Front Panel replacement... lost all data. Had done this on an iPhone 4s without requiring a restore/hard reset. I'm interested if this is at all similar to others' experiences.

7evenseaz - Reply

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