iPhone 5 Rear-Facing Camera Replacement

Remove the rear-facing 8 MP iSight camera from your iPhone 5

Use this guide to remove the rear-facing camera from your iPhone 5.

7 Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

7 Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

1 Edit Step 4 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

1 Edit Step 4 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

5 Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

5 Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

8 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

8 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

Image 1/1: While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

2 Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

2 Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

Image 1/3: Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.
  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

1 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1: One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

1 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and '''not''' the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

22 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

22 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

      • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

7 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/2: During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

7 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

13 Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Front-facing camera and sensor cable

13 Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • LCD cable

    • Digitizer cable

      • When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

2 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

2 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

1 Edit Step 17 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/1: If you have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.

1 Edit Step 17 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

    • If you have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.

    • The plastic tab is fragile and may break. If your tab breaks before the battery is freed, refer to the following steps.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1: This will soften the adhesive holding the battery, making it easier and safer to pry out of the case.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • If the tab breaks off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    • This will soften the adhesive holding the battery, making it easier and safer to pry out of the case.

21 Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/2: If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.

21 Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board.

  • If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.

  • Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.

  • Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.

20 Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/1: During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

20 Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the battery.

  • During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

4 Edit Step 21 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

4 Edit Step 21 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

3 Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.

3 Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.

  • Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.

  • On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Upper interconnect cable

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:

    • Upper interconnect cable

    • Button assembly cable

    • Lower interconnect cable

10 Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

10 Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.

1 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

1 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.

1 Edit Step 27  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

1 Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Depress the SIM card release on the right side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.

  • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

5 Edit Step 30  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

5 Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 2.7 mm standoff screws.

      • These screws have a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.

    • One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw

      • Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.

      • Reassembly hint: when putting the standoffs back in, use the tip of a spudger like a screwdriver to get them started.

5 Edit Step 31  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.

5 Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.

  • Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.

  • The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.

  • Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

1 Edit Step 32  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

1 Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the underside of the logic board.

4 Edit Step 33  ¶ 

Image 1/1: While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded [http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Anti-Static-Mat/IF145-036|anti-static mat] to prevent any damage to the circuitry.

4 Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.

  • While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.

5 Edit Step 34 Rear-Facing Camera  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

5 Edit Step 34 Rear-Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove two 1.1 mm Phillips screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the logic board.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Your replacement part may not come with the flash surround—if not, remove it from the old camera and transfer it to your replacement.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear-facing camera from the logic board.

  • Your replacement part may not come with the flash surround—if not, remove it from the old camera and transfer it to your replacement.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

Write a story

220 Comments

after i replace the rear camera, my iPhone doesn't reboot without itunes... It always in restore mod! Anyone can help me? Plz!!

Shawn Ely - Reply

Be meticulous and patient and this is a very easy repair. The hardest part was getting the flash set in the case after installing the new camera. The new flash unit does not have any glue on it so the flash lens would not stay seated. A dab of super glue did the trick. It's as good as new! Here's a couple helpful ideas: silicone baking pads make a great anti-static mat, ice cube trays are great to put tiny screws and plates as they are removed from the phone. Number them by step so you can easily reverse the instructions!

stewball00 - Reply

The tiny cover/bracket seems to hold this in place securely, so no glue should be necessary. Did you forget to replace the cover in step 16?

Doug -

Has anyone else had an issue of the flash not working after this repair? Any ideas of why?

mark - Reply

I don’t know why, but my flash is also not working after replacing the camera module. I have no idea where to search for a solution.

Wolfgang Neikes -

There doesn't seem to really be a need to remove the battery. I successfully replaced the camera without removing the battery after not being able to remove it - the glue was simply too tough to lift the battery using the tab or a variety of tools.

Jens Hembach - Reply

I also completed the repair without removing the battery. I used tape to hold back the power connector and frosted plastic tab while doing the delicate work.

Fantastic guide. My best advice is to take your time. By far the hardest part is seating the LED flash....keep the "old" camera assembly close for reference, especially being sure to fold the ribbon cable to the flash under the retaining plate.

bfopie - Reply

stewball suggests using super glue to seat the flash. That would make me really nervous (if you mess up with super glue, your mistake is permanent!), and I don't think it's necessary. When the bracket goes in in step 16, it will hold the flash in place.

eflath - Reply

Many thanks for this guide. Just replaced my camera and all is good : )

Jamie Brightmore - Reply

Thanks for the guide. Feels great to put the phone back together and everything works. Just take your time and don't drop any tiny screws! I use a magnetic tray and label the screws with the Step number as I disassemble.

Feature wise, the iPhone 5 is the best camera I've ever had, but I've had it less than 2 years, and have had to replace the battery, rear camera, and this audio control ribbon cable. Fortunately, all of these parts are very affordable.

Not sure what happened to my camera, but a few months back, my photos started showing feint smudges and a purple dot, consistently in the same place. This cheap replacement camera fixed it!

During disassembly, take note of how the old camera and flash ribbon cable folds, as the new ribbon cable will be laying flat.

Dean M - Reply

Great guide. I was able to replace the camera with no problems and didn't take out the battery (wasn't able to remove it).

Neil - Reply

I just replaced the back camera in m iPhone 5. This instruction made it happen without a glitch. Now I think I'm ready to be a watch repairman <gin>. You need to be patient, you need to be methodical, you need to be accurate.

John Carter - Reply

Well I just finished, I may need a stiff drink now. Read the other comments here before you proceed as most of them say just take it slowly. I guess i will figure out over the next few days if i missed something less obvious while putting it back together. A few parts were a bit more finicky than I was expecting.

Sean - Reply

that sucks i want to clean the sapphire glass of the camera from dust.

i see i need to remove to whole %#*@ logic board thats really annoying

ruidwaun - Reply

Not true, you can just open the phone and flip back the camera to reach the glass. No taking out of logic board requires if you don't want to replace the camera itself.

konradsa -

After doing this steps my iPhone 5 doesn't turn on againg. I double checked that battery it's well connected and still nothing. Please can anybody help me?

Emi Cortorreal - Reply

L'unica cosa da tenere conto è ricordarsi che per ogni micro vite c'è il proprio posto per il resto è un bel rompicapo non adatto a chi non ha pazienza e sangue freddo

matteochiarulli - Reply

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost. My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

matt - Reply

The majority of product manufacturers are not required to provide parts, and apple will fix items under the various warranties it offers. Car manufacturers on the other hand are required to make parts available by law. It is part of the regulation of their industry. They get a lot of protection for their business model, but have some obligations too. It's why the EV1 was pulled, they didn't want to have to make the parts, and why there are so many Delorian parts.

William Leeper -

This is a great guide. However, I'm having a hard time popping the screen back into place. Everything works but I'm afraid of putting too much pressure least I crack it again. Any advice?

amciotola - Reply

To avoid broken screens during reassembling:

Put the hooks of the screen in the right place in the housing, then close it loose, don't press it. Turn your phone upside down with the screen on a very flat surface (e.g. table). Now press the housing on the screen -> no more risk for braking the screen because of inhomogeneous force applied on the glass!

mondbewohner -

I hope folks read this comment before proceeding to attempt a Sleep/Wake button repair on the iPhone 5! Apple has an iPhone 5 Sleep/Wake button replacement program, free, for iPhone 5 devices manufactured through March 2013. See program details at https://www.apple.com/support/iphone5-sl.... Don't do this yourself if you don't need to. It's a difficult repair.

Mark Luscher - Reply

I was willing to add the following important remark on top of this guide but, strangely, it has been refused! Here it is:

---

*Check if your Iphone 5 is eligible to the Apple special program for a free battery replacement (devices sold between September 2012 and January 2013, within a limited serial number range).

* If not, watch the video and use this guide [video|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ogE8USs...]

---

And thus, as my Iphone 5 was eligible, I went to the Apple store of Le Louvre in Paris and the battery has been changed for free instead of 65 euros. Thanks to Mark!

revher -

Hi every one i drop my iphone5s 16gb

I replace 10!new screen but cant back to live i see on the "logic board" where u conect the screen i se damage HOW CANT FIX THAT WHITOUT LOST MA DATA ??? Thaks for anny hellp!!!!!

aliroberto01 - Reply

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher - Reply

To avoid misplacing screws or other elements, printout the instructions, apply transparent tape onto the print wherever you have colored circles marking different screws. Then, as you start removing screws, tape each one on top of its image on the instructions. At the end, to reinstall everything, proceed from the end of the instructions, removing each taped screw from its image, to return it to its original position. I have done this with many iFixit repair instructions, never losing or misplacing any screw!

bduault -

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood - Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver - Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle -

I've managed to replace the battery successfully in my iPhone5, but something went wrong with a friend's (battery status is stuck, sometimes the phone reboots for no reason).

So, i decided to open it up again and reseat the ribbon cables in case they came loose.

I can't open it now. The Pentalobe screwdriver is worn out! I can't open these screws no matter what. I don't know what to do now as I can't be sure I haven't worn out the actual screws themselves, too. Any ideas?

Saltank - Reply

I seem to be having a similar situation. Attempting to open the phone again and either the pentalobe screws or the screwdriver itself is stripped. Any suggestion is welcome for removing the screws.

Battery replacement went well and works great. But I must have a loose (hopefully not damaged) display ribbon.

pwarkolla -

Saltank, thanks to your comment I didn't overtighten those little screws! I would try to get a better quality driver from a local hardware store to see that helps, the one ifixit sent are not very good quality. If that doesn't work, you may have stripped the screws.

SMSHAHKHAN -

Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Daniel Hatton - Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Steve Freed - Reply

Hi Steve! I'm experiencing the same issue. Were you able to fix it? Please let me know

Brittany Hutchinson -

Steve. Please contact me asap re: the issue on your phone. Thank you.

Brittany Hutchinson -

Now here's an issue that would seem to apply to many users doing this repair: if the screen is nonfunctional, how do you power-off the device? When I dropped my iPhone, the screen went almost completely dark, midnight blue, actually. I can use the power button at the top of the phone to turn the display on and off, but I can't get the phone to power off. Seems the only way to do it is to wait until the battery is exhausted.

dwhyink - Reply

The iSclack is a marvel. I've had it in my toolkit for a while but this was its first use. I recommend this tool.

jlwilliams03 - Reply

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

Guido Dampf - Reply

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

I had to position the suction cup _over_ the home button in order to get the screen far enough away from the frame to slide my trim tool in there. Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all...

tparkinson - Reply

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Reply

without this suction cup clamp thing, removing (and replacing) the screen was the hardest part of this job. Especially when the screen is cracked badly as the suction cup loses suction due to air leaking through the cracks. In this case, use tape over the screen to create a smooth surface. ***Also, the screens have rubber running along the side, so use a heat gun or hair dryer to make the rubber softer for removal of cracked screen and installation of replacement screen

fakik0240 - Reply

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc - Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny - Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz - Reply

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

I'd recommend to use packaging tape to attach the upper edge of the display to the back of the phone so you won't rip off the ribbon cables if the display suddenly comes loose.

Cupper Chopper - Reply

I took the suction cup off of an old navigation Tom Tom and it worked great!

fijisomeday - Reply

My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic.

Wade Whitaker - Reply

I initially had trouble, but focusing on the area of the faceplate right above the headphone jack worked for me. There's a slight divot that allows you to slip in the prying tool earlier than in other places around the faceplate. Once I got the prying tool in there, I was able to pop out the bottom, and then continue up the sides.

Stuart Nelson - Reply

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm - Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng - Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo - Reply

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass - Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S - Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien - Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Mitch - Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis - Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin -

This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. Thanks!

dave -

Thank you so much! This should DEFINITELY be added to the main guide.

After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

Thanks so much!

diegoholt -

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins - Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew - Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst - Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool - Reply

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

Kenichi Haramoto - Reply

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

Leonid - Reply

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

Nolan - Reply

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

edis - Reply

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Ardi Purwalaksana - Reply

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

Julie To - Reply

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

earthhasassri - Reply

Use needle its a best way

imran - Reply

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

dpetronis - Reply

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

prattdesign1 - Reply

BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!!

-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

peterthemick - Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Reply

1. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords. Mine did not rip, thankfully.

2. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

3. When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around. I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back.

kkwang18 - Reply

We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device.

Matt Gordon - Reply

My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly. Not good.

robin - Reply

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

yakbu - Reply

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

luc - Reply

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff - Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11 -

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

zhunterzz - Reply

I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force (at a 45 degree angle as suggested) on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly.

Jen Robinson - Reply

That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing.

Ed Chapman -

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

drummerMarkku - Reply

BE VERY CAREFUL!! While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables. Screen didn't turn on, and it cost 100$ to repair. BE VERY CAREFUL.

Marc - Reply

Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! Thank you!.

When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen (you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight) if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame, at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

I hope it helps!

Cesar Valenzuela - Reply

Was it just me or did anyone else discover a ribbon cable (or something like it) on the bottom end of the phone (under the home button)? It kept me from opening the front panel more than 30 degrees or so, making the replacement impossible. Thoughts?

Curt Jones - Reply

It looks like you might actually have an iPhone 5s, that is probably the Touch ID cable, check out the iPhone 5s Display Assembly replacement here!

Sam Lionheart -

Thank you, Sam!

Curt Jones -

Hi, first post, so fingers crossed! I managed to remove the screen with the suction up no problem. But what i found underneath looked nothing like the photograph or video. There is no battery obviously seen, there is just a large flat plate or a dark brown or black colour covering the whole inside of the phone from above the home button. I definitely have an iphone 5 (i checked the model number A1429) so i am at a complete loss as to what to do next. I dont think this forum allows posting of photos. Any advice greatly appreciated!

Thomas Daniels - Reply

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz - Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai -

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic

Matt -

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel - Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david -

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia - Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy - Reply

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Frank - Reply

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

pkrosa - Reply

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

stevesontheroad - Reply

Be warned, the 1.6mm screw is exceptionally easy to strip. I haven't been able to get it out yet (already tried rubber band trick and a few others) and am on the verge of giving up. The #00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching.

joseparra947 - Reply

Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that.

randypalmerjr -

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded:

Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place.

Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.

alsmith1928 - Reply

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

stefanoclearmounth - Reply

When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying. I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. It was. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again.

I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone.

My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly.

grosstua - Reply

The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work..

Liam Carson -

Step 9-12 are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open. The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back.

rich1812 - Reply

Is the 1.2mm a #000 or #0000? I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1.2mm, the tools list shows #000, but my set says #000 = 1.5mm.

Kevin - Reply

1.2 mm refers to the length of the screw (from head to end), the screw head size is compatible with a Phillips #000 driver. So as long as you have a #000 you should be set! Good luck =)

Sam Lionheart -

Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens... I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. to match the colors of the circles in this guide. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size.

Pete H - Reply

What an idea, lol.

bigfnevil -

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell - Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin - Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk - Reply

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don - Reply

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

julian - Reply

Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen. After putting everything back together, you see a small yellow smear just to the left of the battery % indicator, you have not put that plate on correctly. Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly!

AGS - Reply

Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils.

There is also a new brighter spot on the screen. Any ideas anyone?

Ian Campbell -

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson - Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido - Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia - Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst - Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter - Reply

BE CAREFUL HERE.

Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

info - Reply

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

eric51redding - Reply

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

Aaron Martina - Reply

I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly (including FaceTime camera and Home button) iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro.

Nathan Jones - Reply

This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors.

nicholaskan - Reply

if my lcd metal plate is scratched can i replace it to remove the lines or do i need a new lcd

brittany stapleton - Reply

When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently. It turns out there were two separate problems. (1) We had over-handled the cables and a quick swab of alcohol helped remove the oil from the connections. (2) The first connection is really tricky to get right and comes undone easily during the final reassembly.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

I had this problem too (not the oil though). When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. The only way to shut down the phone was to hold the home key & power key for 8 seconds until the display went black. Reseating the LCD & Digitiser connectors, and power cycling by reconnecting the battery fixed the problem. Hope this info helps others.

Tom Hannen -

My display was not turning on and my home button was not working (I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work). When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them. Thanks! By the way, SUPER grateful the rest of the display works. I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. Woohoo!

jhagerman - Reply

I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know.

Ana Van Meter - Reply

The Guide misses the Point, where the Battery is disconnected, between steps 12 and 13 (German version).

Max Next - Reply

Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab (says Authorized Service Provider Only on it) is the way to go. The plastic for this tab goes under the battery and around and through the adhesive, if you pull it at a 45° angle the battery comes off without the need to pry on it at all. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

Scott Denowh - Reply

Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case).

oz - Reply

Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

Canis Lupis - Reply

I use credit card and put wider side to pry battery this make batter not deform easily

christmas - Reply

do not pry on the logic board side pry for the volume keys side this

con - Reply

I can confirm with con (mar 4). The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore...

mknight - Reply

*My plastic tag ripped while trying to pull the battery out.

*I then used a spudger type tool to GENTLY pry the battery out from the LEFT side of the case in the middle of the battery.

*Turns out all the adhesive is on the plastic tab side underneath the battery, so it is MUCH easier to leverage the battery out that way without causing damage. There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

kjfolgner - Reply

I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes. I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem.

sleepycali07 - Reply

Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer (what I used) and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top.

jeru - Reply

The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little.

Prying from the volume side will also reduce the chance that you dislodge the GPS connector.

bill - Reply

Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery. I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.

Anders Fagerstedt - Reply

I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive. I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab (an inch below the volume buttons). There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool. Pry gently there against the case (once the phone is warmed up on the plate) and the battery comes out very easily. It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason.

flyingsherpa - Reply

Wish I'd read your comment before I did this step! :-)

Nicholas Bestevaar -

The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. hairdryer really helped with softening and loosening the glue.

gdomnick - Reply

Just an advice:

I think it is needless to remove the battery at this stepp. I have remove the battery at last.

Hunt3rDe - Reply

It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 (prying out the battery) had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery! I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see.

Titus - Reply

This step is the toughest one. My old battery glued on the board stubbornly and refuses to come out. It took me half hour or so to pry it out. It has deformed and way beyond usable state. The key here is to pry from all allowed angles (refer to the pictures and video), and pry patiently. Mine starts to come out after prying from the top.

wengkeeteh - Reply

When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture (the gap between battery socket the battery itself), a small rounded metal spudger (like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit) is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool (like happens to me) during this step. Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component.

I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step.

dcode - Reply

I just wanted to mention that the battery can be VERY DIFFICULT to pull out. I used the plastic tab, but it broke off. I was forced to pry it out, but like I said, it didn't come out easily and the battery was all mangled by the time I pulled it free from the adhesive. This guide tells you where to pull and where to be careful, but it still made me very nervous! Just keep working at it if yours is also stubborn.

jhagerman - Reply

I would suggest using both the clear tab and the plastic opening tool simultaneously to be able to remove the battery.

darcyearle - Reply

Easy does it on this step. The adhesive is very strong. I though my battery wasn't going to come out. But even prying from all three indicated locations does it eventually.

jlwilliams03 - Reply

I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery.

dlash - Reply

Hello from Cyprus there ...i have a problem when i open my iphone white lines appear on the screen so i disconnected the battery and then connect it again and the screen got black i mean black 'light ' no image appear at anyway ... Anyway i listen the sound when the phone open or change ... Any help to get reed of it?

Stelios - Reply

Charge *. .

Stelios - Reply

I can't recommend changing the battery, I did everything as shown but my iPhone doesn't work anymore. If I connect it to itunes it wants it to restore and when I do that. It sets itself back in recovery mode. I did not break anything and used only plastic tools to remove the parts. Even after I put the old battery back in it still shows the "connect to iTunes"

Does anyone have an idea what to do?

Patrick - Reply

Have the same problem... Have you found any solutions?

Tadas Berlinskas -

Hi, I thought that when I prised the battery out, I'd knocked 2 chips off the logic board, chances are this is what's happened to you too... They need to change this tutorial to use the plastic tab to remove the battery as I've seen several people with this issue. The only way to fix this is to get 2 jumpers soldered onto the logic board. For now, I used tinyumbrella to get it out of recovery mode & I have enable to assistive touch options.

Lewis Spears -

Any luck finding a solution to this? I replaced my battery and the repair went relatively smoothly... but now it's stuck in an endless loop trying to restore the firmware. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

nathan domeij -

Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic.

tedgarey1 - Reply

My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem"

dconnelly15 - Reply

Well, I followed all the instructions...took some time/muscle to get both the cover off and the battery out. I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. shoulda paid the extra $50 for apple to do the battery replacement.

notlad1974 - Reply

TO ANYONE HAVING GPS ISSUES

After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot. WORKS LIKE A CHARM NOW!

Dan Hohlfeld - Reply

Be careful to make sure your replacement battery gets put in the case seated at the bottom, if not when you close up the front facing camera will be on the battery and if you force it (not realizing) you will damage the front camera

Mike Hebert - Reply

Hi Mike Hebert. Thanks for the suggestion. I went ahead and added a warning on step 16.

Walter Galan -

BLACK SCREEN AFTER INSTALL ISSUE:

The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing. I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket (probably not using proper terms here). I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it (I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness). Tried again still nothing.. thankfully I did not give up as it turns out that connector on the far right of the screen connection harness is tricky. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked. Success! Hope this helps someone.

clongjax - Reply

hi,

I have done everything correct, but I have 2 problems, the power button and the home button is not working anymore. Can somebody help. Thanks

Roberto - Reply

have u fixed maine also not working stuck in recovery mode and home power button not working

blero -

I have the same problem. I need help

Juan Fernando Escamilla -

The recovery mode problem as ive found so far is unfixable apple geeks said its toast as well as att. Ive tryed redsn0w and tinyumbrella to kick it out of recovery mode and it does but restarts right back into it. Itunes fails to update or restore. This is a significant risk to be sure, i had no problems changing the battery no clips broken no unnecessary prying and its well powered brick now.on the plus side im gonna leave it plugged in cause im hoping the added power drain will end the zombie apoc sooner.

knave3b -

I thought I'd done something wrong because my phone would not turn on.... even after a few hours. I finally charged it overnight and then did a hard restart (holding the power button and home button at the same time) and it worked! I have no experience doing this sort of thing and it was a little intimidating, but the video really helped, and it was manageable... not easy, but if you have the motivation and steady hands you should be able to pull it off.

Carol White - Reply

I thought I did everything correctly but my phone didn't power on as I thought it should. I went back and double checked that everything was connected correctly (which I hope it is and I didn't damage anything in the process) I figure maybe the battery has to charge but usually once it plugs in after a few minutes it shows that its charging and in this case it is not charging. Also, I received a liberation kit with a small piece on it. Can you tell what this is for?

Rina Andrade - Reply

REMOVING THE LOGIC BOARD ASSEMBLY IS COMPLETELY UNNECCESSARY FOR THIS REPAIR!!!! The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it. I just did it myself without a problem.

Stages 16-27 need to be removed from this guide!!!

DNATECH LONDON - Reply

That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.

ozarkana - Reply

Agreed - steps 15-27 can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions.

tsc70 - Reply

Actually, you can skip 16-19 and 23-27 -- I found the others to be necessary.

I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary. That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with (or seemed to, at least).

chrismartinphd - Reply

Retirar esta platina, es un trabajo fácil, pero la platina queda adherida a la rear cam, se debe retirar con cuidado de la camara, pues tiene un patica que se acopla de forma mecánica a la camara.

Se debe retirar con cuidado , para luego utilizar la misma platina en la nueva camara de reemplazo.

De toda la guía en nuestro caso , este fue el paso mas engorroso.

Superado esto todo fué normal.

Nota: Perdimos 2 tornillos de esta guía:

Un tornillo de la platina en el paso 17

Otro tornillo en el paso 10, el tornillo central que asegura las 2 platinas .

Gracias,

Gonzalo

Gonzalo Gabriel Gonzalez Cano - Reply

Je fajn, ze tu pises vo svojej reci, tak isto ako ja. Rozumiet ti bude presne tolko ludi co mne, tak nabuduce tu pis v anglictine a neotravuj ostatnych svojou domorodou skomoleninou.

Lukas Franko -

My phone had the bracket attached to the camera and snapped off. When I put everything back together my bottom mic stopped working. Could this top logic board bracket not being attached anymore cause this?

scotty7676 - Reply

I had to remove the battery to get the correct angle for these screws.

Richard Adleta - Reply

What exactly do wedisconnect?This is not adishnetwork?And whatif oneconnectordivorced?Will thenetwork?I have a problem.iPhone5looking for a networkand can not find.

Alexey - Reply

What is this used for ? I broke the one at the left (because the screw was impossible to remove...) but my phone seems to work fine after reassembled :o

Arnold - Reply

I was unable to remove the screw on the left. Consequently, I ended up tearing the cable right where it is attached to the left screw, but as far as I can tell, everything on my iPhone is working properly.

dtmcquade - Reply

Turns out this is the GPS antenna.

dtmcquade -

Whey did we take these screws out? Removal doesn't seem a pre-requisite for any other steps. In trying to put the phone back together, I can't get these screws back in - they don't seem to grab. But I also have this miscellaneous part that I don't know where it came from - it has one hole in the center and looks a bit like a wing. Anyone know what this is and whether it has anything to do with these two screws?

mbrooks - Reply

I just watched the video and this step wasn't included. So why is it here?

mbrooks -

OK, I got the screws back in, but it still looks like an unnecessary step. And I still have that little wing thing. But the phone is working and charging!

mbrooks -

Hi mbrooks! These screws secure some thin cables with contacts on the end of the logic board. If you don't remove the screws, you'll end up tearing the cables (Sorry Arnold and dtmcquade =C).

Sam Lionheart -

What are these two cords are for? I broke one on the right because, I couldnt open the screw.

Sriram Bobba - Reply

When putting this back together, you may find this bracket gets in the way of clipping the battery connection back on. If you do, losses the screw and swivel the bracket out of the way.

carllangton - Reply

When I did this the ribbon cable beneath the plate stuck to the plate, and this guide makes no mention of this cable at all. Be aware that it has to be re routed and re attached to its positions on the logic board or your phone will not work, as i looks like some kind of RF cable.

stevesontheroad - Reply

Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step !! you should peel carefully the ribbon flex cable of the dock and then remove the snap-on connector, then bend them down as already shown in step 24 - otherwise you can damage the main board !!!

rrryyy1 - Reply

Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily (I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw).

Nikolai Shkurkin - Reply

The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.

If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.

Rany - Reply

The "2.7" mm screws are not phillips screws. The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. While the instructions talk about a flat-head bit, I suspect there is a special bit for these, a "+" shaped bit, possibly with a recessed center (hard to tell without more magnification than I had.) Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

jsharris - Reply

- pentalob - did not work for me

- metal splunger flat side - did not work

- flat head that came with the ifixit kit, no size worked

- what did work was another set of nice miro-screwdrivers. The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!!

mamerten - Reply

When reassembling the logic board in the case make sure the logic board connector for the Power/Volume cable is not under the logic board.

John Mihalko - Reply

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable (from step 18) is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. Argh.

kmschlutow - Reply

I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error.

joshuatobiasz - Reply

Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Ohh yes. I made that mistake too. None of your buttons will work if it's tucked under.

cptrene - Reply

See the yellow/orange circles? I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. Be careful!

Hlung - Reply

I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack.

matt - Reply

I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point.

Chris Dotson - Reply

A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board.

anonymous 8623 - Reply

what happens when the new logic board replaced?

phelunk - Reply

Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all. Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Boom.

Josh Bacon - Reply

Arround the LED flash, is a chrome box mounted, which was not delivered with the spare rear camera.

I had to remove this tiny box/frame from the old camera and had to mount it to the new LED flash !

Tom - Reply

During disassembly, take note of how the old camera and flash ribbon cable folds, as the new ribbon cable will be laying flat, and you'll have to figure out how to refold during reassembly.

Dean M - Reply

Can i fix the logic board from iphone 5s to iphone 4s housing?

JohnGues - Reply

My phone now says no service after this repair, what went wrong?

nathan oki - Reply

did you figure out the problem? I have the same issue

Marguerite Welter -