iPhone 5 Rear Case Replacement

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Remove the entire rear case from your iPhone 5.

Use this guide to remove every component from the rear case of your iPhone 5.

Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on step 7.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Lift the front panel assembly slowly up to about 90 degrees from the rear case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

      • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  • User note: To ensure correct installation, make sure you clip the small hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • LCD cable

    • Digitizer cable

      • When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 13 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • It may be possible to remove the battery simply by pulling on the plastic pull-tab. A slow continual pull seems to work best. If this is insufficient, proceed with the prying outlined in this step.

  • Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the three points shown. Prying anywhere else, especially near the clear plastic pull tab, may result in damage to the logic board.

  • Again, do not pry too hard, and only in the locations shown; well above and below the clear plastic pull tab. Otherwise, you may deform or puncture the battery or damage the logic board.

  • The top pry location has a nearby ribbon under the battery, do not pry further than 2mm under the battery.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • If necessary, use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the battery.

  • During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 18 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.

  • Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.

  • On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:

    • Upper interconnect cable

    • Button assembly cable

    • Lower interconnect cable

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Depress the SIM card release on the right side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.

  • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 2.7 mm standoff screws.

      • These screws have a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.

    • One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw

      • Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.

      • Reassembly hint: when putting the standoffs back in, use the tip of a spudger like a screwdriver to get them started.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.

  • Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.

  • The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.

  • Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the underside of the logic board.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.

  • While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.

Edit Step 31 Lightning Connector and Speaker Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31 Lightning Connector and Speaker Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly to the rear case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 3.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly cables up from the rear case.

  • Make sure you get the spudger under the large ribbon cable connected to the assembly. Prying the rest of the assembly away from the cable may result in a tear.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly from the rear case.

  • Take care not to lose the small metal washer on the speaker enclosure, or the four small metal washers beneath the Lightning connector screws.

Edit Step 34 Vibrator  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34 Vibrator  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the vibrator bracket and motor to the rear case:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw in the top of the rear case

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the vibrator bracket and motor from the rear case.

Edit Step 36 Front Panel Clips  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36 Front Panel Clips  ¶ 

  • Remove eight 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the front panel clips to the interior sides of the rear case.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the four front panel clips from the rear case.

Edit Step 38 Rear Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 38 Rear Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws from the metal power switch bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows:

    • Single 2.9 mm standoff screw

      • While these screws have a Phillips bit pattern, we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.

    • Single 1.6 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal power switch bracket.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the power button bracket to the inside top of the rear case.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to rotate the power button cover down on its hinge.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Remove the power button from behind its cover in the rear case.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to press the power button cover in and lift it off of its hinge in the rear case.

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the volume and silence buttons to the side of the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Pry the button cable away from the side of the rear case to expose the silence and volume buttons.

  • Remove the silence and volume buttons from the rear case.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the button cable up from the rear case.

  • Remove the button cable from the rear case.

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

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Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.0 mm Phillips screw securing the SIM card eject lever to the rear case.

  • Remove the SIM card eject lever.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • The bare rear case remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5 device page.

Required Tools

SIM Card Eject Tool

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Popular Device Products

Comments Comments are onturn off

This guide does not describe removal of the wifi-antenna which seems to have taken place between step 32 and 34. For people new to electronics repair, such as myself, I feel this should be included in order to have a complete guide. I did a swap of the back casing yesterday myself, including the antenna and all went well (just a bit more nerve-wrecking removing parts not stated in the guide).

arvegrinden, · Reply

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost. My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

matt, · Reply

If you want the same quality parts but cheaper prices. Go to saintphoneshop.com! They have the same Retina Display. No discoloration, No dead pixels, and no scratches whatsoever. Hurry and get 10% off with the coupon "take10" (without the quotes)

Nick, · Reply

Many users don't know how to fix grayed out Wifi on iPhone. Below are the ways:

http://www.transfer-iphone-recovery.com/...

Turn off the airplane mode by tapping Settings > Airplane Mode, then do the network resetting by tapping Setting > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings, and finally restart the iPhone 4S.

If you have tried the above solutions, but still face the iPhone 4S Wifi issue, you can check if your 4S is upgraded to the newest available software. You can restore the iPhone 4S after checking the software updates in Apple iTunes.

Besides, you can use iPhone Transfer to solve the Wifi problems.

http://www.transfer-iphone-recovery.com/...

helenuser, · Reply

This is a great guide. However, I'm having a hard time popping the screen back into place. Everything works but I'm afraid of putting too much pressure least I crack it again. Any advice?

amciotola, · Reply

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher, · Reply

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood, · Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver, · Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle,

I've managed to replace the battery successfully in my iPhone5, but something went wrong with a friend's (battery status is stuck, sometimes the phone reboots for no reason).

So, i decided to open it up again and reseat the ribbon cables in case they came loose.

I can't open it now. The Pentalobe screwdriver is worn out! I can't open these screws no matter what. I don't know what to do now as I can't be sure I haven't worn out the actual screws themselves, too. Any ideas?

Saltank, · Reply

I seem to be having a similar situation. Attempting to open the phone again and either the pentalobe screws or the screwdriver itself is stripped. Any suggestion is welcome for removing the screws.

Battery replacement went well and works great. But I must have a loose (hopefully not damaged) display ribbon.

pwarkolla,

Saltank, thanks to your comment I didn't overtighten those little screws! I would try to get a better quality driver from a local hardware store to see that helps, the one ifixit sent are not very good quality. If that doesn't work, you may have stripped the screws.

SMSHAHKHAN,

Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Daniel Hatton, · Reply

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

Guido Dampf, · Reply

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc, · Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny, · Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz, · Reply

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm, · Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng, · Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo, · Reply

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass, · Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S, · Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien, · Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Mitch, · Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin,

This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. Thanks!

dave,

Thank you so much! This should DEFINITELY be added to the main guide.

After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

Thanks so much!

diegoholt,

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins, · Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew, · Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst, · Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool, · Reply

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

Kenichi Haramoto, · Reply

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

Leonid, · Reply

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

Nolan, · Reply

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

edis, · Reply

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Ardi Purwalaksana, · Reply

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

Julie To, · Reply

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

earthhasassri, · Reply

Use needle its a best way

imran, · Reply

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

dpetronis, · Reply

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

prattdesign1, · Reply

BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!!

-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

peterthemick, · Reply

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

yakbu, · Reply

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

luc, · Reply

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff, · Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11,

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

zhunterzz, · Reply

I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force (at a 45 degree angle as suggested) on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly.

Jen Robinson, · Reply

That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing.

Ed Chapman,

I'm having trouble removing the screen and the silver protective cover. When doing the suction cup and prying, the screen came right off, but the protective cover remains. I've tried gingerly prying on the silver cover, as well as using the suction cup directly, but have had no luck. Any ideas? See the picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ats3l3c0jgula3...

Justin, · Reply

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

drummerMarkku, · Reply

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz, · Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai,

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic

Matt,

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel, · Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david,

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia, · Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy, · Reply

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Frank, · Reply

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

pkrosa, · Reply

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

Be warned, the 1.6mm screw is exceptionally easy to strip. I haven't been able to get it out yet (already tried rubber band trick and a few others) and am on the verge of giving up. The #00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching.

joseparra947, · Reply

Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that.

randypalmerjr,

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded:

Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place.

Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.

alsmith1928, · Reply

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

stefanoclearmounth, · Reply

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell, · Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin, · Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk, · Reply

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don, · Reply

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

julian, · Reply

Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen. After putting everything back together, you see a small yellow smear just to the left of the battery % indicator, you have not put that plate on correctly. Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly!

AGS, · Reply

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson, · Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido, · Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia, · Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst, · Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter, · Reply

BE CAREFUL HERE.

Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

info, · Reply

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

eric51redding, · Reply

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

Aaron Martina, · Reply

Actually I prefer to remove battery connector before taking step6

christmas, · Reply

My phone is "searching" for my wireless provider. Has anyone had a problem like this?

graceyang, · Reply

Someone else had a suggestion that helped me. The date and time were wrong on the phone after powering up with the new battery and once I fixed that and shut off the phone and powered it back on it was able to connect. I could not set the year manually but connecting to wifi automatically set it for me.

gdomnick,

try connecting it to a wireless network. after setting the right time and date automatically, it should connect to the network.

Riddim Riddkofski,

Manual date/time fixed it for me as well.

sebastianepedersen,

Quick tip: Once you connect the new battery, try to carefully peel off the very small rubber looking insulation on top of the battery connector of the old battery and stick it back on top of the battery connector of the new battery. Once done, only then do you screw back on the metal battery connector bracket.

I didn't do this the first time I replaced the battery and noticed that call quality was a bit choppy. I was trying to think what might be causing the issue and guessed that this insulation must be doing something to insulate the connector from the metal bracket. I opened it up again and put on the insulation and it appears that the usual good call quality has now returned!

vyuhico, · Reply

Had the same problem with the signal provider! the tip with seting the time & date worked perfect! Thank you! :)

Jimmy, · Reply

Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab (says Authorized Service Provider Only on it) is the way to go. The plastic for this tab goes under the battery and around and through the adhesive, if you pull it at a 45° angle the battery comes off without the need to pry on it at all. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

Scott Denowh, · Reply

Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case).

oz, · Reply

Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

I use credit card and put wider side to pry battery this make batter not deform easily

christmas, · Reply

do not pry on the logic board side pry for the volume keys side this

con, · Reply

I can confirm with con (mar 4). The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore...

mknight, · Reply

*My plastic tag ripped while trying to pull the battery out.

*I then used a spudger type tool to GENTLY pry the battery out from the LEFT side of the case in the middle of the battery.

*Turns out all the adhesive is on the plastic tab side underneath the battery, so it is MUCH easier to leverage the battery out that way without causing damage. There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

kjfolgner, · Reply

I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes. I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem.

sleepycali07, · Reply

Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer (what I used) and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top.

jeru, · Reply

The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little.

Prying from the volume side will also reduce the chance that you dislodge the GPS connector.

bill, · Reply

Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery. I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.

Anders Fagerstedt, · Reply

I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive. I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab (an inch below the volume buttons). There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool. Pry gently there against the case (once the phone is warmed up on the plate) and the battery comes out very easily. It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason.

flyingsherpa, · Reply

The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. hairdryer really helped with softening and loosening the glue.

gdomnick, · Reply

Just an advice:

I think it is needless to remove the battery at this stepp. I have remove the battery at last.

Hunt3rDe, · Reply

It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 (prying out the battery) had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery! I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see.

Titus, · Reply

I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery.

dlash, · Reply

Hello from Cyprus there ...i have a problem when i open my iphone white lines appear on the screen so i disconnected the battery and then connect it again and the screen got black i mean black 'light ' no image appear at anyway ... Anyway i listen the sound when the phone open or change ... Any help to get reed of it?

Stelios, · Reply

Charge *. .

Stelios, · Reply

I can't recommend changing the battery, I did everything as shown but my iPhone doesn't work anymore. If I connect it to itunes it wants it to restore and when I do that. It sets itself back in recovery mode. I did not break anything and used only plastic tools to remove the parts. Even after I put the old battery back in it still shows the "connect to iTunes"

Does anyone have an idea what to do?

Patrick, · Reply

Have the same problem... Have you found any solutions?

Tadas Berlinskas,

Hi, I thought that when I prised the battery out, I'd knocked 2 chips off the logic board, chances are this is what's happened to you too... They need to change this tutorial to use the plastic tab to remove the battery as I've seen several people with this issue. The only way to fix this is to get 2 jumpers soldered onto the logic board. For now, I used tinyumbrella to get it out of recovery mode & I have enable to assistive touch options.

Lewis Spears,

Any luck finding a solution to this? I replaced my battery and the repair went relatively smoothly... but now it's stuck in an endless loop trying to restore the firmware. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

nathan domeij,

Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic.

tedgarey1, · Reply

My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem"

dconnelly15, · Reply

Well, I followed all the instructions...took some time/muscle to get both the cover off and the battery out. I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. shoulda paid the extra $50 for apple to do the battery replacement.

notlad1974, · Reply

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok Everyone that is damaging their board by prying the battery out from the circuit board side, (Don't Pry from that side) You need to pry from the left hand side of the battery by the frame of the phone. This way you won't damage anything on your board. I was following the directions just like everyone else and I noticed that it was going to potentially damage the board if I went that route. Doing it this way the battery just popped right out with no problems.

IFIXIT: You need to change this part in your instructions so people will stop damaging their phones.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

John Buckley, · Reply

Everything appeared to go great but now im having GPS issues. Is the GPS connector on the logic board? Has anyone else had this problem?

JeffS,

TO ANYONE HAVING GPS ISSUES

After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot. WORKS LIKE A CHARM NOW!

Dan Hohlfeld,

TO ANYONE HAVING GPS ISSUES

After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot. WORKS LIKE A CHARM NOW!

Dan Hohlfeld, · Reply

Be careful to make sure your replacement battery gets put in the case seated at the bottom, if not when you close up the front facing camera will be on the battery and if you force it (not realizing) you will damage the front camera

Mike Hebert, · Reply

Hi Mike Hebert. Thanks for the suggestion. I went ahead and added a warning on step 16.

Walter Galan,

BLACK SCREEN AFTER INSTALL ISSUE:

The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing. I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket (probably not using proper terms here). I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it (I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness). Tried again still nothing.. thankfully I did not give up as it turns out that connector on the far right of the screen connection harness is tricky. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked. Success! Hope this helps someone.

clongjax, · Reply

hi,

I have done everything correct, but I have 2 problems, the power button and the home button is not working anymore. Can somebody help. Thanks

Roberto, · Reply

have u fixed maine also not working stuck in recovery mode and home power button not working

blero,

I have the same problem. I need help

Juan Fernando Escamilla,

The recovery mode problem as ive found so far is unfixable apple geeks said its toast as well as att. Ive tryed redsn0w and tinyumbrella to kick it out of recovery mode and it does but restarts right back into it. Itunes fails to update or restore. This is a significant risk to be sure, i had no problems changing the battery no clips broken no unnecessary prying and its well powered brick now.on the plus side im gonna leave it plugged in cause im hoping the added power drain will end the zombie apoc sooner.

knave3b,

I may have did something wrong, but anything can go wrong if you try and do this yourself. I was experiencing the same issues with my battery on my phone, basically couldn't leave the house because it died to quickly. So, I ordered a new battery online with a toolkit from Amazon. The reviews all were saying "It was great!" "Easy to fix!" So of course I wanted to fix my phone.

I did everything correct, with some technical issues of the battery sticking to the back of my phone. Also the screwdrivers I got from Amazon didn't work all the time when I tried getting the screws up. Once I finally thought I finished installing the new battery, after an hour and something of tinkering, I finally put it all together to only be rewarded with a black screen and a recurring vibrate whenever I plugged it in to be charged.

I advise whomever to not try installing it yourself but to go to an apple sore and have it professionally done. Instead of having to pay 500 something for a new phone.

kyla, · Reply

REMOVING THE LOGIC BOARD ASSEMBLY IS COMPLETELY UNNECCESSARY FOR THIS REPAIR!!!! The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it. I just did it myself without a problem.

Stages 16-27 need to be removed from this guide!!!

DNATECH London, · Reply

That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.

ozarkana, · Reply

Agreed - steps 15-27 can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions.

tsc70, · Reply

Actually, you can skip 16-19 and 23-27 -- I found the others to be necessary.

I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary. That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with (or seemed to, at least).

chrismartinphd, · Reply

Retirar esta platina, es un trabajo fácil, pero la platina queda adherida a la rear cam, se debe retirar con cuidado de la camara, pues tiene un patica que se acopla de forma mecánica a la camara.

Se debe retirar con cuidado , para luego utilizar la misma platina en la nueva camara de reemplazo.

De toda la guía en nuestro caso , este fue el paso mas engorroso.

Superado esto todo fué normal.

Nota: Perdimos 2 tornillos de esta guía:

Un tornillo de la platina en el paso 17

Otro tornillo en el paso 10, el tornillo central que asegura las 2 platinas .

Gracias,

Gonzalo

Gonzalo Gabriel Gonzalez Cano, · Reply

Je fajn, ze tu pises vo svojej reci, tak isto ako ja. Rozumiet ti bude presne tolko ludi co mne, tak nabuduce tu pis v anglictine a neotravuj ostatnych svojou domorodou skomoleninou.

Lukas Franko,

I had to remove the battery to get the correct angle for these screws.

Richard Adleta, · Reply

What exactly do wedisconnect?This is not adishnetwork?And whatif oneconnectordivorced?Will thenetwork?I have a problem.iPhone5looking for a networkand can not find.

Alexey, · Reply

What is this used for ? I broke the one at the left (because the screw was impossible to remove...) but my phone seems to work fine after reassembled :o

Arnold, · Reply

I was unable to remove the screw on the left. Consequently, I ended up tearing the cable right where it is attached to the left screw, but as far as I can tell, everything on my iPhone is working properly.

dtmcquade, · Reply

Turns out this is the GPS antenna.

dtmcquade,

When I did this the ribbon cable beneath the plate stuck to the plate, and this guide makes no mention of this cable at all. Be aware that it has to be re routed and re attached to its positions on the logic board or your phone will not work, as i looks like some kind of RF cable.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step !! you should peel carefully the ribbon flex cable of the dock and then remove the snap-on connector, then bend them down as already shown in step 24 - otherwise you can damage the main board !!!

rrryyy1, · Reply

Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily (I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw).

Nikolai Shkurkin, · Reply

The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.

If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.

Rany, · Reply

The "2.7" mm screws are not phillips screws. The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. While the instructions talk about a flat-head bit, I suspect there is a special bit for these, a "+" shaped bit, possibly with a recessed center (hard to tell without more magnification than I had.) Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

jsharris, · Reply

When reassembling the logic board in the case make sure the logic board connector for the Power/Volume cable is not under the logic board.

John Mihalko, · Reply

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable (from step 18) is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. Argh.

kmschlutow, · Reply

I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error.

joshuatobiasz, · Reply

Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Ohh yes. I made that mistake too. None of your buttons will work if it's tucked under.

cptrene, · Reply

See the yellow/orange circles? I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. Be careful!

Aztrel, · Reply

I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack.

matt, · Reply

I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point.

Chris Dotson, · Reply

A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board.

anonymous 8623, · Reply

this is NOT the right way to remove the speaker, anyone following this guide will do unnecessary damage to the phone.

Speaker is one of the "official" serviceable part of iPhone 5. Which means you don't have to remove the logic board and the battery. Skip straight to step 27, peel up the home button contact flex, remove the red, blue, yellow and the green screw, peel loose the grounding flex stuck around the headphone jack, then remove the flex and the speaker as one part. NEVER remove the lightning connector flex unless you really need to.

Tom Chai, · Reply

I agree, there is no need to remove the battery or the main board, simply remove the two screws on the right hand side of the buzzer (the larger one on the right and smaller one by dock) and remove the screw next to the home button contact, the buzzer simply slides out, 5 minute job.

g4tch, · Reply

At this point I ended up with four (4) washers. I put back 3 under the two 1.5mm and the one 2.9mm screw but have no idea where the 4th should go.

Dirk, · Reply

What are the metal washers for?

Whatever, · Reply

Make sure to clean any bits of golden glue left on the phone case

andrewcilia, · Reply

i noticed that i broke tip of the loudspeaker cover flex under washer, and now my iphone won't turn on :(

mate, · Reply

Do you know where I can get these washers? I lost one in the disassembly process.

Scott, · Reply

The metal washers appear to have come from the bottom side of the lightning connector. Underneath the four screws. Two of mine were stuck on the old part that I had removed. I noticed this after installing the parts.

Rene Jeddore, · Reply

Any idea what is the strip which is stuck on the speaker, which helps connect the two screws? does it have any specific functionality or is it just to keep the speaker in place?

I see that it just connects two end points to the iphone body.

madhucherla, · Reply

Don't accidentally remove the volume switch screws here. That comes later, and two of those screws are different from these and it's hard to tell them apart.

Chris Dotson, · Reply

How do you get the hinge out? the back housing i purchase does not have one. is it defected?

Henry T, · Reply

You forgot the rubber bumper removal step before step 41:

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+5+Po...

Erez Carmel, · Reply

I have the same problem. The new back housing doesn't have a hinge. How can you remove the hinge from the old unit-any ideas??

Damian, · Reply

Okay, I managed to get it out. Used a hammer claw to pry out the housing around the pin. That got me about half-way there. Then carefully chisled a bit more away with hammer & nail. Finally was able to yank out the pin with tweezers. It was ugly, but the pin was undamaged and I could drop it right into new housing.

Damian, · Reply

On reassembly, test the slider switch to make sure it works properly before putting the whole thing back together. If the external switch doesn't fit on top of the actual switch, it looks right but won't move.

Chris Dotson, · Reply

Phew that was long, but well done! Thanks!

Michael Payton, · Reply

Goodevening, I tried to turn on the iphone but would not turn on.

I tried to attach the charger and the iphone is turned on in recovery mode.

To start it I have to attach it to iTunes, and force the boot.

After the home button is the power button does not work.

What could have happened?

Emanuele Auriemma, · Reply

hello a lot of things could be your problem ( dead battery oxydation dock anything else ) try to take it out from recovery mode via tiny umbrella and come back

and dfu mode to restore your iphone

Sisyphe ,

Hi Sisyphe, but the dock works very well. In order to boot the phone I had to force the boot with a small software who I had downloaded.

I don't know, because after to enter in the Iphone, the power and home buttons don't work.

I try to bring it in a assistance shop but they have not been able to fix it.

They hypothesized some problem in the motherboard (???)

I haven't idea...

Emanuele Auriemma, · Reply

The small plastic clips that sit around the charger and phone jack and over the speakers are still attached though! They are tricky to remove, but for the sake of completeness - could you add another step? The bottom of my phone looks weird now as I didn't notice until I'd completed the job!

Excellent instructions as always though - I'm really happy with the result!

chrisjbower, · Reply

When disassembling my iPhone5 I found a lever under the SIM card slot which is not mentioned or shown in any of the repair guides. Without the lever installed the SIM card slot will not open. I found this out when taking the phone about the lever and screw fell out of the device. I did not realize where it went back. Once I reassembled the device and could not get the SIM card to open I understood the significance of the part. Be sure to replace on reassembly.

mserleth, · Reply

What about the power button pin?!?!?!?!

joshuabuffington, · Reply

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