Introduction
Use this guide to replace the rear camera in your iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen.
This guide was written using a WiFi + Cellular version (Model A2014). If you have a different model, there might be some slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the procedure.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
What you need
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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The first magnet begins about 3 cm from the top of the iPad.
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The second magnet begins about 3 cm from the bottom of the iPad.
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Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.
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Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
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Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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The middle cutout begins 12 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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The bottom cutout is 4 cm from the bottom of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.
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Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.
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Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
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There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here.
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The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.
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Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.
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Leave your pick inserted before continuing.
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Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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One 1.8 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the display cable bracket:
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Four 1.1 mm-long screws
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.0 mm-long screws securing the rear camera bracket to the frame.
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Use tweezers to rotate the bracket toward the right edge of the iPad and release the side metal clip.
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Pull the bracket toward the bottom of the iPad to release the top metal clip.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera cable press connector.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear camera and the frame.
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Pry up to separate the adhesive securing the rear camera.
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Remove the rear camera.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.
