Introduction

Use this guide to replace the rear-facing main camera on an iPad 5 Wi-Fi.

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

jfmartin67 - Reply

If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

aaroncope - Reply

The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

Mike Martin -

If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

Blair Miller - Reply

Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

notalawyer - Reply

I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

Vince Asbridge - Reply

Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/2: Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass. Image 2/2: Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
  • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

jfmartin67 - Reply

The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

kinchma - Reply

“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

Blair Miller - Reply

I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

Joel Tyson - Reply

Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/3: As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Image 2/3: Front-facing camera Image 3/3: Antennas
  • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

  • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Front-facing camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/3: Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. Image 2/3: While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case. Image 3/3: While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

jfmartin67 - Reply

Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

kinchma - Reply

It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

Scott S - Reply

Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

Simone Gabbriellini -

Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

Jeff Suovanen -

The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

Blair Miller - Reply

After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

Taiji Saotome - Reply

Image 1/3: Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Image 2/3: Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly. Image 3/3: Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Image 1/1: Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
  • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

Scott - Reply

Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

Scott S - Reply

How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

chrisweiler - Reply

Image 1/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. Image 2/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. Image 3/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

Scott S - Reply

Image 1/3: If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. Image 2/3: If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. Image 3/3: If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

What's the best way to clean 'em off?

What's the safest way?

Mike McIntosh - Reply

Image 1/1: Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Image 2/3: Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera. Image 3/3: Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Image 1/3: Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge. Image 2/3: Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge. Image 3/3: Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Image 1/1: Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Image 1/2: Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step. Image 2/2: Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Image 1/3: [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPad+5+Wi-Fi+LCD+Replacement/88071#s62527|The display cables|new_window=true] are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad. Image 2/3: [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPad+5+Wi-Fi+LCD+Replacement/88071#s62527|The display cables|new_window=true] are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad. Image 3/3: [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPad+5+Wi-Fi+LCD+Replacement/88071#s62527|The display cables|new_window=true] are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

Blair Miller - Reply

Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

Sam Lionheart -

My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

Dylan Bouterse - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. Image 2/3: The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad. Image 3/3: The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Image 1/3: With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Image 2/3: Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna. Image 3/3: If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Image 1/3: Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using '''only the very tip''' to remove the adhesive. Image 2/3: Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using '''only the very tip''' to remove the adhesive. Image 3/3: Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using '''only the very tip''' to remove the adhesive.
  • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

  • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna. Image 2/3: Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna. Image 3/3: Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.
  • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner.

    • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

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Image 1/1:
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

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Image 1/2: On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge. Image 2/2: If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

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Image 1/3: Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables. Image 2/3: Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables. Image 3/3: Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.
  • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

  • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

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Image 1/2: During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/iPad/iPad-Air-Adhesive-Strips/IF128-005|pre-cut adhesive strips|new_window=true]. Image 2/2: It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

  • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.

  • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

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Image 1/1: Three 4.0 mm screws
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD.

    • Three 4.0 mm screws

    • One 4.8 mm screw

Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. Image 2/3: Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case. Image 3/3: Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
  • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

  • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

  • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

    • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

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Image 1/3: To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery. Image 2/3: Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work. Image 3/3: Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
  • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

  • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

Matt - Reply

Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

goodcyning - Reply

I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

Peter Gray - Reply

A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

dougintexas - Reply

Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector. Image 2/2: The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

  • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

originalpaintballpanda2 - Reply

I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: How to Remove a Stripped Screw

goodcyning -

Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

gwarren - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the LCD.

Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

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Image 1/3: Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Image 2/3: Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Image 3/3: Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.

  • Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

Moses Roman - Reply

Moses Roman

Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

Bilal Kinali - Reply

I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

daviddesignbristol - Reply

I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

Please give us some feedback.

Elektromic - Reply

Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

RayM - Reply

To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

Have fun!

Josh - Reply

Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

Luis Tamborrell -

Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

Neil Davis -

Image 1/3: To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, '''not''' on the socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, '''not''' on the socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, '''not''' on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

  • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

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  • Remove the front panel assembly.

  • During reassembly, to prevent "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your iPad, check to make sure there is a layer of foam or tape covering the metal frame on the back of the glass.

    • These areas, which are part of the digitizer, are covered by foam adhesive on your iPad's original front panel. Some replacement panels leave this area exposed, which can cause it to ground out against other components. You can protect it by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape.

In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

Joe Kazura - Reply

What "two metallic pads of tape" are being referred to? Perhaps an image with these pads circled would be a good idea. All I can see near the home button in the guide images is a metal mesh covered foam pad, used for ground continuity. But there aren't two.

jamesqb2001 - Reply

the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

TJ Hellmuth - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.

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Image 1/1: If you have the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, your iPad will look slightly different and will require the removal of two additional screws to access components covered by this bracket.
  • Remove the upper component cable bracket.

  • If you have the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, your iPad will look slightly different and will require the removal of two additional screws to access components covered by this bracket.

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Image 1/3: Only pry up on the connector—'''not''' on the socket itself. Image 2/3: Push the rear-facing camera cable to the left to clear it out of the way. Image 3/3: Push the rear-facing camera cable to the left to clear it out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.

  • Only pry up on the connector—not on the socket itself.

  • Push the rear-facing camera cable to the left to clear it out of the way.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide a plastic opening tool under the rear facing camera and pry upward to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the rear-facing camera.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Evan Noronha

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