Introduction

To replace the battery, carefully follow these steps and use the correct tools.

There is adhesive holding the back plate in place. Be careful removing this as there is wiring on the other side.
  • There is adhesive holding the back plate in place. Be careful removing this as there is wiring on the other side.

  • Insert the SIM card removal tool or the point of a spudger into the tiny notch in the frame near the SIM card tray, and pry up.

    • This will allow you to open a slight gap behind the back panel.

  • Insert an opening pick or other plastic tool into the gap and slide it around the entire perimeter of the phone to release the adhesive and remove the back plate.

    • If the adhesive is too tough, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the back of the phone and soften the adhesive, and try again.

Anyone have experience with different backplates? Mine has a wood back and I'm wondering if it's too fragile to remove.

Frank - Reply

We had a flexible one and it peeled up slowly. Scraped off old adhesive and reattached with spray adhesive on backplate.

Jeff H - Reply

Thank you for the 'warning' and reminder to be careful removing the back plate as to not damage the wiring. This is confusing because it looks as if the only spot you need to really be careful is on the left-hand side where the volume and power buttons are.

jsolan81 - Reply

Was unable to accomplish this step. All I got was a bent SIM card removal tool and a (leather) back panel that hadn't budged.

Avram Grumer - Reply

+1 for failure to launch. Broken several tips, plastic and metal, without budging the back at the hole 1 mm, even after heating with a heat gun and iOpener.

David - Reply

+1 for failure to launch at this stage. IOpener, heat gun and several broken plastic and metal tips later didn’t move the back cover one mm.

David - Reply

My smartphone also has a wooden back. I replaced it quite well with the help of a hairdryer and 3 credit cards. You can see on the photos where you have to be more careful. In all other places, I carefully pushed the plastic cards further and further inside. In between the backside was reheated 2-3 times. Then it was done.

Jörg R. - Reply

I used guitar picks and wedged them in, and spread them around and slowly peeled it up. It was a very long process. Eventually was able to peel the back off with my fingers, but again took a long time.

Also, be careful where the cords for the volume and power buttons are so you don’t damage that cable.

Benjamin - Reply

Using the sim card removal tool remove the sim card tray.
  • Using the sim card removal tool remove the sim card tray.

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  • Disconnect the two battery connections.

  • Remove the two parallel black tabs by pulling on them.

That little wavy orange strip on the left connects the volume and on buttons. Make sure to detach it from the battery before following the next steps, because it’s very easy to damage.

Rodrigo Vidales - Reply

the black tabs are internal between the back plate and battery. they cannot be removed without removing the back plate. they are used to anchor the nfc antenna and require great care in handling. they should be used to remove the nfc antenna after back plate removal.

pic gla - Reply

  • All screw lengths are 2.5mm

  • Using the T3 screw driver, remove all 20 T3 screws.

  • Do NOT remove the silver screw circled in orange.

    • This holds in the Power/Volume buttons and is not necessary to remove. There are 2 very tiny springs behind the volume buttons that are easy to lose if you remove this screw.

  • Using the nylon spudger, remove the two clips holding the panel in place.

There are two screws by the upper battery connector, (included in the 20) that are not circled in the image.

gripworks - Reply

According to the designations on the tool set, the torx screws in my MXP are T3, not T4.

hopetocover - Reply

They are T4. My T4 fit fine, but boy are they in snug. I had to apply a good deal of downward pressure while twisting to break them free and I still stripped out one that I had to drill the head off of.

Jeff H - Reply

A T2 and a T4 driver will both fit a T3 screw, but not as well. These are definitely T3 screws. They are not snug and no downward pressure should be needed if you use a driver that actually fits.

Here's an image with Screw #20 also circled:

https://imgur.com/a/gxpSD

Paul K - Reply

Thanks for your comments everyone. I've never worked on this phone, but I added some additional screw markups and incorporated your comments for the benefit of the next person who reads this. Hopefully I got it right, but let me know if you see anything amiss!

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

The middle screw at the top is located further left (quite right in the middle).

Jörg R. - Reply

Evil T3 screws! Don’t force down, just apply torsion force. Increase it slowly. With luck, the screw will start to rotate. I was able to open with a not so good driver with a relative large body.

Also, the point where the flat cable coming from the button meets the rest os the cable is glued to the battery. You have to detache it now, before trying to remove the battery or you may risk ripping the cable.

Thank you all for the tips!

Mr. Cage - Reply

Screws are definitely T4. Like others said. Either that or the manufacturer had variance for which they used on the production line. T3 head did NOT work and was stripping the screws. T4 head worked perfectly.

I’ve never had problems with this torx set in fitting, so it’s either variance in what the manufacturer uses in these phones, or the guide is wrong about what size screws they are.

T4 screws in mine. If you try to use a T3, you’ll strip them. Don’t do that. I had to torque one of the corner screws out, along with its socket, because I started with the T3 head before moving to the T4 head. Mucked the !&&* out of that corner of the phone, but it still works.

Otherwise, very good guide.

Benjamin - Reply

and then magic happens. the author omitted carefully prying off the display from the back plate that holds the battery. this is a delicate task with risks. the photo shown in step 5 is the battery back, only.

pic gla - Reply

  • Remove the orange cable that connects the battery of the phone to the NFC.

When re-assembling, I wasn’t sure how to properly place this connector. I could see where it supposed to connect on the other panel, so I just tried to measure from the nearest screw hole. But how does one know if this part was placed properly?

Nicholas Price - Reply

  • There will still be some adhesive on the battery so moderate force may be needed.

  • After removing the orange cable, simply lift up the battery to remove it.

The adhesive strips can be removed from the old battery and stuck to the new battery.

Jörg R. - Reply

The thin, orange ribbon cable from the three buttons disconnected from its connector when the battery was removed. I don’t know if anything could have been done to prevent this, especially since the adhesive pull tabs never come out completely. So it was touch and go there for a few minutes until I figured out how that cable reconnects to its connector. (small white tab on connector needs to be lifted up and then the cable reinserted.

boblienhart - Reply

the nfc adhesive antenna is attached to the battery, between the battery and the back plate. there are two black tab pulls at the bottom of the battery that protect the nfc antenna. any break to the protective strips for the antenna (while pulling the battery off the back plate) will destroy your nfc. pry from the back plate very slowly and carefully, from bottom, up. to reattach, place the antenna in its cutout well in the back plate, then place the battery on top. NB: you will need to carefully bend the edges of the new battery to match the curvature of the back plate. compare with your original battery.

pic gla - Reply

when reinstalling the nfc antenna, use the two pinholes on the back plate, and their matching pin holes in the nfc antenna backing to properly allign the nfc antenna. next, place the battery on top of the antenna and carefully match the placement of the antenna contacts on the battery to ensure they connect with their contacts on the motherboard when the back plate is placed back on the display board.

pic gla - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

26 other people completed this guide.

Rayan Kassab

Member since: 03/06/2016

592 Reputation

1 Guide authored

Team

19 Comments

Rayan thank you, although I am not yet ready to replace the battery (about a year to go) yet, I would like to know if there are better batteries than those that came with the unit from the manufacturer? An upgrade that holds a better charge on a daily basis? Marty

marty damskov - Reply

Do you have a link to buy a battery? I've been looking but I'm still not confident with me results. Preferably one that includes the necessary tools, but so long as it's definitely the correct battery. I need to replace my battery, NOW!

Chris DiMisa - Reply

Battery now available. Please see link on this page or here:Motorola Moto X Pure Edition Replacement Battery

Jason Clark -

Has anyone bought a 3rd party battery for this phone? I got one from Germany brand name "vhbw", however it is not curved and so will not fit. It is quite soft and so am wondering if it is safe to bend such batteries? Not sure if I should risk it, though.

Alex Damien - Reply

Alex, I bent my new battery to make it fit. It seems to be working just fine.

Nicholas Price -

I found a Motorola brand FX30 battery labeled as "new" on ebay for $30 from a seller with good reputation. Reading the amazon reviews for 3rd party batteries I saw a lot of comments complaining the battery isn't curved like the original and only sort of fits. The FX30 battery I bought is exactly like the one I took out and so is a perfect fit.

New Lithium Ion cells require 5 or 6 charge cycles to properly condition so I won't know if this truly is a good battery for a few days. But at least it fit like a glove!

Paul K - Reply

I replaced the screen+digitizer and they both seems to work allright. But after that, I'm facing a battery problem: It can't charge to 100% and is continously discharging the battery. I changed the battery, but the problem continued. I think that the battery and charging connector are both ok. Any ideas???

dal - Reply

I have same problem as dal, something “infected” my battery information partition and I suspect it is the same manufacturer malware pushed by apple to sell more phones. In their mindset they think that what they are doing is justified by some forced legal agreement and on the money side of things they think that purposefully obsoleting equipment will force you to purchase newer models.

Something is storing my battery information and I can’t seem to fix it. Also the charging icon is forever stuck on and NO QUICKCHARGE device works with it. It only happens on Nougat!!! And the quick-charge icon is permanently on.

I force downgraded to Marshmallow and problem gone! So it could be a developer oversight or it could be Apples agenda set in software now.

Apple pushes battery degrading malware right before a new release like clockwork, so it is how they got caught, but because of legal agreements that you are forced to accept no one can do anything about it.

I suspect Motorola is doing the same thing here.

QuadrampleEquation - Reply

I have the same problem as dal and I suspect malware, manufacturer sponsored malware to be the culprit.

I know asking for information on here is like going to a church and praying for help but I would like to know WHERE the battery information is stored, in what partition on the emmc? It is NOT store on the data partition that is for sure. There is a special partition designed just for charging and it is a heavily striped down version of android, it also is the PRIMARY target for malware and CENTRAL OPS targeting.

For MTD and EMMC devices, the partition layout and the partition names can be retrieved by reading the /proc/mtd and /proc/emmc files .

So can anyone tell me where the actuall battery informatio is store on motorola devices? I would really like to know as I suspect something needs to be checked here.

QuadrampleEquation - Reply

I oredered a battery from Bigupgadegts on this page.

https://bigupgadgets.com/battery-fx30-sn...

Rick Menzel - Reply

If you are taking the back off, which you need to do to replace the battery, or replace the screen. Then you will need a new adhesive for the back. I have found one: https://amzn.to/2F6nFY5

Clayton Hofrock -

Are you sure the reassembly is simply these steps in reverse order? Will the adhesive from the back plate reattach, or must you really have to buy new a new adhesive sheet for the Moto X?

Alex Cummins - Reply

Hi Alex, I just went through this procedure. As for the adhesive, I used mineral spirits to completely remove the old adhesive off the phone’s plastic backing. Clean w/alcohol after. Then used new adhesive from Amazon—around $5-6 for 2-3 sets of adhesive. The old adhesive sort of splits between the plastic backing and the inside of the phone leaving behind a velvety kind of texture that isn’t very sticky. It may work w/o new adhesive. BTW I found a Motorola branded battery for $35 on Amazon via a Marketplace seller, too, for anyone shopping around. Sort of difficult to find one (Ebay is all China stuff)

Aporia Yixara - Reply

Just completed this replacement. Screws in ours were a great fit for a T4 bit , and came out with just gentle rotational force. A potential issue: There was some adhesive on the back of the battery that adhered to the thin ribbon cable that runs from the Power and Volume buttons to the black connector in the center of the photo for Step 4. When I had the frame flipped over and lifted out the battery, it tugged that cable out of the black connector. The cable fell back on top of the connector so it was not apparent that it was disconnected. When plugged into a charger, the screen worked and the battery indicated it was charging, but the buttons would not power up the phone. It was only after close inspection of the buttons cable that I could see that the end of that cable had been disconnected and had to be reinserted into that black connector in the center of the phone body. I then put the small piece of orange tape back over the connection to secure it. All was great after those uh-oh moments!

John Fink - Reply

The guide was perfect, except, it failed to mention that the connection junctions, shown in the first image of step 3, is glued to the battery. It should have been circled also. It will be pulled when the battery becomes unseated. The risk of damage is high.

Patrick Williams - Reply

In regards to the adhesive, if you use a heat gun prior to removing the backing it doesn't destroy the adhesive too much. Also prior to reassembly if you heat the backing and the remaining adhesive material on the phone itself it all goes back together pretty well. At least in my experience

Jason Nonya - Reply

I would not have known where to even begin the change out this battery without these instructions. My replacement was successful but it was touch and go for a few minutes since the small ribbon cable from the 3 buttons was disconnected when the old battery was removed. The new battery was a perfect fit and it seems to be well secured even without any extra adhesive.

boblienhart - Reply

This is what motorola chat told me this morning

Rosanna: Please be informed that the battery for Moto X Pure edition is not removable.

.

Ha, I’ve seen a few youtube videos and this website that shows it can be replaced.

Very sad that the people working for the company that made the phone aren’t trained enough to realize this battery can be changed.

Now I need a screen replacement that is already connected to the frame, if any knows where I can get a real OEM one, please let me know.

tz78620 - Reply

You’re in luck! Our screen replacement kit includes all the tools you need, plus an OEM part! We don’t yet have a complete guide, but we’ll let you know when it’s available!

Sam Lionheart -

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