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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the upper case. This procedure involves using adhesive remover to remove the battery. Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Some replacement upper case assemblies may include the trackpad and battery as well. In this case, skip steps 18 through 44.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Reply

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Reply

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Reply

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Reply

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Reply

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Reply

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Reply

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Reply

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Reply

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Reply

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Reply

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Reply

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Reply

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Reply

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Reply

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Reply

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Reply

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Reply

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Reply

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Reply

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Reply

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Reply

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien Izzet -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Reply

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Reply

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Reply

  6. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Reply

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  8. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

  9. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Reply

  10. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.
    • Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Reply

  11. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

  12. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.
    • Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Reply

  13. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Reply

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Reply

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Reply

  14. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

  15. Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

  16. If your replacement part comes with trackpad, battery, or other components, don't remove them from your old device, simply skip those steps in this guide.
    • If your replacement part comes with trackpad, battery, or other components, don't remove them from your old device, simply skip those steps in this guide.

    • Be sure to read through the rest of the guide so you can be sure to transfer all of the necessary components.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - Reply

  18. Lift the trackpad cable up off the battery to separate it from the adhesive securing it. Be careful not to damage the cable. If it doesn't peel up easily, apply a little heat from an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again.
    • Lift the trackpad cable up off the battery to separate it from the adhesive securing it.

    • Be careful not to damage the cable. If it doesn't peel up easily, apply a little heat from an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again.

  19. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector. Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

    • Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - Reply

  20. Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board. Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board.
    • Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - Reply

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - Reply

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - Reply

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - Reply

  21. Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery board to the upper case.

  22. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Reply

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Reply

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Reply

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Reply

  23. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Reply

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Reply

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Reply

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Reply

  24. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

  25. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - Reply

  26. If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped. Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.
    • If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped.

    • Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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  28. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - Reply

  29. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  30. If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point. Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the right-most battery cells.
    • If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

    • Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the right-most battery cells.

    • After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

  31. Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two. Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools. When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.
    • Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

    • Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

    • When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - Reply

  32. Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell: Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.
    • Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

    • Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

    • Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

  33. Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case. If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells. Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.
    • Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

    • Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

  34. Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case. Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.
    • Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    • Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

  35. Continue to repeat the prying procedure. Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case. Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.
    • Continue to repeat the prying procedure.

    • Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.

  36. Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells. If using an iOpener, reheat it and apply it to the central battery cells. As before, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the center cells.
    • Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and apply it to the central battery cells.

    • As before, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the center cells.

    • In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

  37. If using liquid adhesive remover, apply a few more drops under each of the final two, middle cells. It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work. Allow 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
    • If using liquid adhesive remover, apply a few more drops under each of the final two, middle cells.

    • It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

    • Allow 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    • Gently folding the right-most battery cells out of the way, insert a plastic card under the right center cell.

    • Push the card in about half of its length to cut the adhesive holding the battery cell to the case.

    • Be sure to avoid the trackpad control board. Aim the card up toward the logic board, where the adhesive is.

    • Leave the card in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - Reply

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

  38. Repeat the same procedure for the last remaining battery cell. Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board. Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board.
    • Repeat the same procedure for the last remaining battery cell.

    • Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board.

  39. Return to the card beneath the right-center cell, and twist it to separate the entire battery from the upper case. By now you should have cut all of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and it should come out freely.
    • Return to the card beneath the right-center cell, and twist it to separate the entire battery from the upper case.

    • By now you should have cut all of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and it should come out freely.

    • If it does not come out easily, you may need to reheat the iOpener and apply it to the stuck areas, and then continue gently cutting the adhesive with the plastic cards.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - Reply

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - Reply

  40. Remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - Reply

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - Reply

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - Reply

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - Reply

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - Reply

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - Reply

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - Reply

  41. Remove the ten 2.8 mm T3 screws securing the trackpad cover plate to the upper case.
    • Remove the ten 2.8 mm T3 screws securing the trackpad cover plate to the upper case.

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

  42. Remove the trackpad cover plate.
    • Remove the trackpad cover plate.

  43. Remove the twelve 2.4 mm T5 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.
    • Remove the twelve 2.4 mm T5 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - Reply

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Reply

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Reply

  44. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case.
    • Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case.

  45. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.

    I managed to just move the cable without having to disconnect whilst replacing my MagSafe connector

    lewismacqueen - Reply

    Pull straight OUT not up.

    Mmm ttt - Reply

  46. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  47. Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
    • Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.

  48. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.
    • Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.

    Before tightening the screws on the DC board, it helps to push it slightly outwards so that it seats against the case.

    Russell Hodin - Reply

  49. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

  50. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

  51. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • In the Early 2015 model, this is a silver 2.7 mm T5 screw.

  52. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. Use the thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste before reassembly.
  53. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  54. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

    If you're re-assembling, and following in reverse order, I found it easier to complete step 54 and THEN step 55. The iSight camera cable connector was easier to put back into the socket BEFORE sticking the cable back onto the fan housing.

    Austinscherer - Reply

  55. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector. Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.

  56. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  57. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.
    • Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.

  58. Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board. The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    • When reconnecting the antenna cables, run them over the camera cable, not underneath.

  59. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  60. Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.5 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

    • One 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

  61. Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case. Remove the I/O board. When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.
    • Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

    • When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  62. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and move it out of the way. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and move it out of the way.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and move it out of the way.

  63. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  64. Pull the microphone cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the microphone cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  65. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

  66. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

    If you get an aftermarket keyboard , don't peel the blue backing on the ribbon cable. I mistakenly thought it was a temporary factory protective cover, but it's in fact part of the cable.

    Mmm ttt - Reply

  67. Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

  68. Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case and remove the logic board. When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board. Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case and remove the logic board.

    • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

    • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  69. Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges. Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

  70. Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case. Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.
    • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

  71. Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges. Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  72. Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case. Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.
    • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    I had to use a T9 driver to remove these. Almost stripped the screws using the T8 but T9 with some pressure worked great.

    Dave Burke - Reply

  73. Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end, as shown. While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
    • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end, as shown.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    When re-attaching, the bracket holding the antenna cables to the bottom hinge should go on before the bottom T8 screw (so, hinge, then antenna cable bracket, then T8 screw). Additionally, I recommend you don't tighten that bottom T8 screw too much at this step. Instead, wait for step 73 to tighten - so the second T8 screw (that also goes into the antenna cable bracket) can be aligned first.

    Austinscherer - Reply

  74. Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand. Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly. Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.
    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

  75. Place the MacBook on a heated iOpener for about a minute to soften the adhesive securing the dual microphone cable.
    • Place the MacBook on a heated iOpener for about a minute to soften the adhesive securing the dual microphone cable.

  76. Insert the tip of a spudger under the rubber microphone cable cover to free it form the upper case. Remove the rubber microphone cable cover. Remove the rubber microphone cable cover.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the rubber microphone cable cover to free it form the upper case.

    • Remove the rubber microphone cable cover.

  77. Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case.

  78. Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

  79. Remove the microphone cable from the upper case.
    • Remove the microphone cable from the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

32 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 10/17/2009

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6 Comments

Hey I need to replace my track pad for sure, but would anyone know if the circuit board on the backside of the track pad controls the keyboard? or where the hardware is that controls the keyboard? My mouse and keyboard arent working due to water damage and apple wants 750 for a part thats less then 100 dollars. Any insight would be much appreciated!

Mike Hillenbrand - Reply

@andrew how do you re-assemble the iOpener-removed battery? Just lay it in-place and re-heat it all with the iOpener? Can the adhesive be re-used?

Joey Mink - Reply

I ended up reassembling with the remaining glue on the battery and trackpad cover panel. I used a hairdryer to attempt to reactivate the glue since my iRemover sprung a leak. The outside-most cells are loose - oh well :). Maybe I'll open it up and tape them down.

Joey Mink -

Well done Andrew!!! I followed this guide and surprisingly everything is good. The tech at the Apple store tried to convince my daughter that she fried the logic board + keyboard by getting water into it. (It was a month past the warranty so we didn't argue.) But she swears she never got any liquid near it. I didn't see any obvious signs of moisture when I opened it up. Based on other comments on other sites, it seems more like Apple has shipped some defective keyboards for at least some MacBook models.

campbell.brad - Reply

that’s exactly what is happening with me now!!! apple is trying to convince me that there is a liquid damage exactly on the I/o board in my mackbook pro early 2015. At first the battery isn’t charging and they said that they will change the top case including keyboard and battery, five days later which is today the call me saying they discovered a liquid damage on the I/o board and the price will be changed from 200 hundred pounds to 325 pounds. I definitely refused and suspected them. now I took my MacBook back again and looking for another solution. it works fine with the power cable. so any idea would be highly appreciated.

many thanks

sofian

Sofian -

Thank you so much! What an awesome guide!

The only suggestion I can make is during reassembly, on steps 55-57 (fan), insert the fan cable into the ZIF socket while placing the fan back into its cavity. Much easier than trying to bend it into place after the fan is screwed into place.

Jason Muzzy - Reply

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