Apple's line of MacBook Pro laptops was intended for the professional and power users. The MacBook Pro line includes the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody, MacBook Pro 15", MacBook Pro 15" Unibody, MacBook Pro 17", and the MacBook Pro 17" Unibody.

11225 Questions View all

Pink lines in white space, green lines in black space?

So starting today I have pink vertical lines appearing in white spaces, and green vertical lines appearing in black spaces on my macbook pro. An example of this can be seen here

Block Image

now at first I assumed that it was the video card however when I tested it with an external display I got the following results

Block Image

Since the output is fine I have determined that the problem is not with the videocard.

Something else I have noticed is that if I press on the bottom of the case in certain spots the problem goes away.

So what are some suggestions to fix this? Is my best bet to just go to the local apple store and get them to fix it?

Answer this question I have this problem too

Is this a good question?

Score 10

Comments:

Hey,

I just got the exactly same problem. Could you get it fixed? Did you exchange the cable or the display?

Benedikt

by

Benedikk - Nope no other solution here it's time for a new display. If you go to Apple for the repair they will put in a new display. But, the bad news here is many of this series is no longer being serviced by Apple. Without knowing what your model is I can't tell you for sure. Your best option is either replacing the panel unit your self or if you don't want to go that far find a parts system that has a good display and just swap the lid assembly (you can often find a complete lid for sale on eBay as well). Good luck

by

I had this problem and had a store replace my display. That worked for about 3 months. Then it happened all over. They said it was likely in the motherboard.

by

The same thing happend to me so a about a week ago I got a MacBook Pro 15inch off trade me and it was fine then about three days ago that happend then this morning I had it on charge and it was back to normal then I used it for a while and it went pink again is there any way I can get this fixed without going to an Apple Store and paying a fortune for it to get fixed

by

Add a comment

20 Answers

Most Helpful Answer

Quick fix for this issue that at least means you can work on your machine

  • install "flux" it changes the colour temperature of your screen and makes the white slightly orange with no pink lines (green is still there)
  • To get rid of the green in videos - In VLC go to Window > Video Effects.. and turn the contrast down, yes you lose the reason why you bought a mac with a nice screen but at least everything isn't green. (remember to set VLC as your default player for video files)
  • BE WARNED - I left this for a long time and eventually the cable started dropping the image completely (i.e screen was going black)

Was this answer helpful?

Score 5

Comments:

Thank you Sim Davis,

I installed the app in seconds and it works great so far.

Good that you warned for the screen dropping completely, how long did it take before that happened? I was already getting used to the pink screen :s

by

No worries, sorry this is happening to other people too, but at least this makes it workable in the short term.

by

Add a comment

I had the same problem with a 2008 17" unibody MBP. I was NOT about to give it to a Genius for a $500 fix. Not in my nature.

I knew if I pushed on the indentation just south of the space bar or below the Option / Control / Command keys it went away. That told me something was loose or coming disconnected. Logically thinking, right? Wrong.

This makes no sense, but I took the bottom off with an electronics screwdriver and touched around a bit. There is a component that is a black square just to the left of the right side fan when looking at the bottom. It's about the size of an American Quarter and has a screw at the top left and bottom right. Not much identification as far as letters or numbers. When I touched that, the lines went away. I screwed it tighter and they didn't go away after a reboot. But GET THIS... I LOOSENED them about 1/16th of a turn -- Just those two little Phillips Head screws.

Fixed. I have no idea what that component is, but it's been working perfectly for a few hours now with the bottom replaced so I don't think it was a heat problem / fan problem / graphics card problem / logic board problem.

Worth a try, I would suggest. :)

Was this answer helpful?

Score 4

Comments:

Gary Lewis, any chance you could identify that component on an image and post if with your question. Would be interesting to find out and could help others....

by

Thank you, thank you, Gary! Probably saved me a lot of money.

by

well, I have that same issue. I have been testing and poking around, cleaning connectors, twisting the whole lower case (and it disappears momentarily)... So far it is working after having pressed gently but firmly (with a plastic pen end) on the LFXP2-5E little black silicon piece... !

I will post again if it appears again or if I find a more definitive solution !

hope it helps

thomas

by

Add a comment

This issue is almost, 99% of the time, never the cable. The idea that the video cable causes this is a myth that has been perpretrated for years by wishful thinking types because they want a ten dollar fix to their problem. One person says the cable fixed their problem so 100 other people buy an LVDS cable only to realize that wasn't their issue, but since they never come back to the thread to say it was not the issue, no one ever knows... they just assume the $20 fix will work.

Reballing is also BS because the GPU is DEAD!!!! Putting new solder balls on a DEAD GPU does nothing, you are just heating up the dead chip to make it work again, similar to how poking a recently killed bug causes it to move a little until it stops.

Try this if you have a machine with integrated graphics + discrete GPU. boot up, do nothing. Then open photo booth. photo booth turns the integrated GPU off, and discrete GPU on. If you see lines only with photobooth on, discrete GPU is bad. If you see lines only with photobooth off, intel integrated graphics is bad.

Most of the time this issue is screen or GPU related.

If you have an X1600 based iMac or Macbook Pro from 2006-2007, the GPU is probably already dead, or died 3 times already. These are just trash.

If you have a Macbook Pro with GeForce 8600M graphics, it is probably dead already. While not worth fixing, it is at least fixable.

If you have a Macbook Pro with an AMD GPU - it is about to die or has died already. You can replace the chip but it'll die again in a few years, these quad core sandy bridges married to the same heatsink as a junky AMD GPU are trash.

Whether the issue is in the screen, the GPU, the Intel CPU's integrated graphics, the LCD cable, how the LCD cable is plugged in, or the LVDS MUX; this will be specific to YOUR machine. There is no "oh this worked for him so it'll work for me, too", there is no shortcut around thinking, analyzing, and diagnosing on your own. Do not buy a cable because it worked for someone else, do not replace a GPU because it worked for someone else. Figure out your own issue based on your own symptoms, none of that wishful thinking crap!

Was this answer helpful?

Score 4

Comments:

Hm, ok. thanks for your reminder. In my case, I noticed that if I flex the notebook keyboard over my knee a little, the issue disappears for a while. So it seems to be hardware related, like a soldering or came issue.

How can I distinguish whether it's a cable or a dying GPU?

by

You said you had a 2011 15" model. Download GPUtest and run furmark. Does it last for a full half hour or freeze up?

by

So what's your solution to the problem with a 8600M? I get what you're saying, this site's basically built upon collective trial and error and shared symptoms so we might as well make the most of it!

by

WIth 8600M it goes in the bin. The bin is my universal synomyn for ewaste, trash, garbage, etc.

With that it can equally be the LCD or the GPU. The GPU is awful pre-2009 NVIDIA and the LCD is first generation LED backlit. PCs didn't start using those until around 2010, but Apple was into it in 2007, and boy did those B154PW04/LP154WP2/LTN154BT02 have terrible failure rates!

8600M based machines are bad for the following reasons.

1) Very difficult to find a new GPU.

2) Virtually impossible to find properly refurbished boards.

3) Almost impossible to find replacement VRAM that often dies while replacing the GPU.

4) Screens stopped being available new in 2009! All refurbished junk available from 2011 onwards.

5) LCD frame loves to fall apart at the bottom.

The only parts you will find to fix 8600M based machines are used and refurbished, so it's kind of like putting a dirty band aid on an open wound. You never really know what the problem is and when you do it is very difficult to reliably fix it. :(

by

So, if I've got a 2009 macbook pro (5,3) with NVIDIA 9400M built in and 9600M GT discrete and it does the pink line thing on its built-in LCD, but not an external monitor, whether I have the machine set to "battery life" or "high performance" (as well as whether photobooth is open or closed) than it's either both GPUs, the screen or, however very unlikely, the cable and no matter what, this machine, that runs beautifully, otherwise, isn't worth fixing.

by

Show 4 more comments

Add a comment

So i kept poking around for a fix. I may of found it. There are the little round cushions on the logic board going around the fans. The cushions on the left side as you are looking at the logic board from the back of the laptop. Press on them and see if the green pixels disappear. If so use something to keep pressure on them. I used pennies and paper tape. So far so good. Will keep you posted.

Update

Sadly I bought my MBP used and shortly after it started doing this nonsense. I took it to the mac store who sent it out for a so called fix for $325, but it soon started doing the same crap again right after the 3 month warranty. I like most of you can get it to go away by pressing on the right side at the very front of the laptop. Perhaps we all need to start a class action lawsuit. I know for a fact that we all can't be misusing our laptops. There must be a solution. Perhaps with all our heads working on this issue we will come up with one.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 2

Comments:

That sounds like a bad solder joint issue. Make sure the pennies don't short the logic bd. If you can find a person with SMT soldering skills and the proper equipment they maybe able to fix this.

by

I taped the pennies down with paper tape. They are tapped to the bottom cover. I will take pics after I see the solution working for a bit.

by

Interesting - sounds like a good start for a fix as I noticed that the lines disappear when I bow the laptop a bit. Could you post a Photo of the position you put the penny so I can try it out as well?

by

So this solution only worked for a few days. I just ordered a new LVDS cable from ebay to replace the cable. It only cost $19.95. See Lauren's comment below.

by

Add a comment

I was experiencing the same problem with my mid-2010 15.4-inch Macbook Pro with Nvidia GT330M. I could also toggle the effect on and off by pressing on the palmrest just to the left of the trackpad. I found and fixed the problem 100% and I hope this can help others.

It turns out that the Macbook had had its motherboard removed previously and had been reassembled incorrectly. When the motherboard is removed, the microphone typically stays glued to the case just to the left of the trackpad. When the motherboard is re-inserted, the cylindrical microphone housing does not go back into its hole in the speaker correctly. This can be verified by the fact that the motherboard does not lay flat and is elevated by a few milimeters right where the motherboard screw beside the keyboard ribbon cable is. Typically, users will just tighten this screw thereby forcing the motherboard back down into place. What this does, however, is that it slightly deforms the motherboard since the improperly inserted microphone acts as a fulcrum. It seems that this is enough to stress some solder joint or trace somewhere thereby causing the pink/green screen effect.

The solution? Unglue the microphone from the palmrest area and properly insert it into its nook in the speaker. Either that or don't tighten the motherboard screw beside the keyboard ribbon cable. That is what I did and now the pink (on white) and green (on black) screen artifacts no longer occur.

I'm not saying that this will work in all cases but it did in mine and maybe it will also work for you.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 2

Comments:

Hi Lxixboss, thanks for your detailed repair idea.I indeed had the MBP in service before the error started occurring and the symptoms look perfectly the same.

I disassembled the MBP but I'm not sure about what to do now. what I dont get is:

* what do you mean with "the cylindrical microphone housing does not go back into its hole in the speaker correctly"? This cylindrical microphone housing is now elevated for ca. 1mm over the rest of the speaker housing. Is that normal or the error you described? What would mean that the cylindrical microphone housing fits in correctly? Just 1mm or completely out? The cylindrical thing in Step 27 here MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Microphone Replacement is elevated by ±1mm.

* What should I unglue exactly? The cylindrical microphone housing from the speaker housing? Again, I'm talking about MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Microphone Replacement - What is glued or unglued there?

by

Add a comment

dan's right about the reballing. I heard it is labor intensive, requiring skills and tools that aren't easily accessible. I did go to the Apple store and told them that I thought it was the display (when I really figured it was the logic board). They took the laptop from me and I paid a flat fee of $310 (+tax), the invoice said they replaced everything but the harddrive and the fans-point is, I believe you can get your mobo replaced/fixed for the flat fee.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

Comments:

I don't think it's a gpu problem becouse if i connect the mac at the external monitor the pink lines not appair...

by

Add a comment

A simple fix I've settled for is using this app: https://itunes.apple.com/ca/app/gamma-co...

It allows you to modify the gamma values so that the screen never displays a total black or white, hence preventing the green or pink lines. Only catch is you can't use it alongside Flux or similar. I've changed the Black values by 0.04 and the difference colour reproduction is barely noticeable, but the lines are gone.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

Comments:

Thanks! I am interested. However: since f.lux is free, and this program is roughly $17, could you explain the advantages it has over f.lux?

by

No advantages exactly, they do different things.

Flux changes the colour temperature, which might get rid of the pink lines on white but won't fix the green lines on black. Gamma Control changes the black and white points by user defined values, essentially allowing you to prevent the display of the pure white/black colours that cause this issue.

You can get a trial version of Gamma Control from the developer's website: https://michelf.ca/projects/gamma-contro...

by

Add a comment

I had the pink vertical lines suddenly appear on my early 2011 MacBook Pro 15" a couple days after I replaced the touch pad. By accident, I also found that the screen went completely white if I opened the lid all the way - maybe 180 degrees but the screen images (still with the pink lines) restored immediately when I returned the lid to 90-120 degrees.

So the big clue, of course, is that I had disassembled the innards almost completely, it was my first time to do so, and I already had to reopen the case once before to properly reconnect the keyboard ribbon cable. So, thinking it was some connection near the hinge, I reopened the case and looked for a loose connection near the hinge, and voila! the display data cable (top right corner with fans at top, see photo) was loose! I just used my fingernails to push the little "ears" to put the cable connector all the way in.

It worked! Yay!

Block Image

Block Image

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1
Add a comment

add little packing on heatsink end and problem is solve

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1
Add a comment

hi i have the solution! i have disassembly the motherboard of mac and i have put a "thickness" in the midle of the heatsink!!!

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

Comments:

Can you post pics of how you did this. They would be quite helpful.

by

Hey Marco!

How is your solution working? Is it still working well? I was wondering if you could post pictures of your fix? It would be very helpful. Happy New Year!

by

Add a comment

Ok, so after dealing with this exact issue for almost a month now (pink lines on white, green on black), with the only short fix being to press behind the left shift key, I have come up with a simple solution that may help a lot of people with this.

After taking off the under/back cover and keeping the computer on (as to see the pink lines) I touched different spots to confirm where to pressure needed to be to get rid of the issue. I also notice that if I plug my computer into my TV via HDMI, the screen issue doesn't transfer to my TV, so I knew it couldn't be some hardware issue, but instead had to be some connection issue to my computer screen. Why, then does the pressure "work" to solve it? Well, turns out that behind the motherboard there is some loose connection going on here, and pressing on that point completes the connection that is either loose, or has lost it effectiveness somehow.

So then, there are some ways to approach this:

1. send it to Apple

2. take off the motherboard, and fix the connection yourself

or...

3. just tape a few folded up pieces of electrical tape under that exact spot, and then put your cover back on so that the pressure is kept on this spot (completing the loose connection) thus solving the issue.

This seems to be the best way to fix this without spending money and time. My MacBook is a 2010 model, so I don't see the point in spending a lot of money on repair, or risk going under the motherboard and start soldering this since I am not an electronics pro. Just use something nonconductive like electrical tape so that you don't short circuit your board. Also, I've seen some people suggest taping something like a penny on the outside (under the computer) case but that wasn't as effective as putting tape inside, and seems to only work for an hour or so. It's less direct pressure and isn't as good at applying the needed pressure.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

Comments:

How did you safely poke around inside the computer without risking damaging or shorting anything? DId you ground yourself or wear a rubber glove or something? Did you have the computer propped up somehow so you could see the screen but still be poking around underneath?

by

Any chance you can add pics of the spot you placed the electrical tape?

by

Add a comment

I am encountering this problem as well now on my 2009 17 inch Macbook Pro.

First day it was sufficient to hit it a few times till it went away, but it got more persistent and persistent during the weekend.

Now it seems 'fixed' by making a custom laptop stand which applies pressure to the bottom right under the eject-button and at the battery indicator lights. Tomorrow I will let a few geeks at my faculty look at it and hopefully solve it.

Gary, Nick and Mark, can you give me (or the geeks) tips? What worked?

PS: the screw in the bottom plate nearest to the power-inlet has been gone for a year or so, but it seems unrelated.

UPDATE:

I took a look at the connector of the dipslay data cable to the logic board, which looked perfect, reattached it and screwed it back together, no result. It's still the same. Any ideas anybody? I can't really cough up the dough to replace this laptop and it feels like it is really easy to fix if you know how to do it.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

Hi Wessel,

thanks for sharing your experience.

Here's the Link to the f.lux app:

http://justgetflux.com/

Did anyone here manage to fix it hardware-wise? I suspect it is a broken cable or connector, so maybe there is a fix possible, isnt it?

by

Add a comment

I have the same issue with an MBP Early-2011. The LocigBoard had been changed some months ago, and since some weeks I have that flickering as well, it gets worse and worse.

@gary lewis & oldturkey03:

I found some picture of the possibly related Philips head screw mentioned in gary's post. Have a look here:

https://discussions.apple.com/message/19...

is that the mentioned screw?

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

The screw you have pointed to is one of the heat sink screws. Having the screw tight pulls the heat sink against the GPU chip. The four chips lined up as an L are the video memory. It's possible you need to clean and re-apply the thermal paste on the heat sink and CPU, north bridge & GPU chips as the paste may have dried out causing excessive pressure. The other possibility would be a warping of the logic board due to high heat so some of the solder joints are being pulled causing them to act as a semi-conductor.

by

This sounds like the most likely problem. I recently purchased a Macbook Pro that has this problem occasionally and if I can apply pressure to make it stop it has to be a problem with one of the components, not the LCD screen like the Apple Store said. I have a RAM upgrade on the way and will attempt to remove the heat sinks and reapply thermal paste as well and make sure the solder joints aren't overlapping. I'll report my progress afterwards so that a solution can finally be found.

by

Add a comment

Same problem with a mid-2009 core 2 duo unibody. Output to external monitor is unaffected. Applying pressure to the laptop right between the two fans temporarily fixes the problem. I have it under control right now with some packed electrical tape inside the enclosure to apply pressure, but I am only considering this solution as very short-term.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0
Add a comment

I've had this problem for a couple of days and I haven't found a concise solution online. So, I found that it was the connector for the display on the mobo itself. When I wiggle it, the screen gets worse and can go black/white also. I have ordered another cable on newegg. I hope that helps someone!

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

Did the new cable fix your problem?

by

yep! So far it has.

I used the following walkthrough to replace the cable:

http://youtu.be/aZh0QU_K_0U

by

Did you already own a heat gun or did you purchase one for this fix? I'm wondering if a hair dryer would work? I just ordered my cable today.

by

Is it necessary to remove the glass to replace the screen cable? Or can the hinge guard be removed without the glass?

I've also got the same issue (green lines on black colour) on a Mid-2009 15". I've fixed it for now with some pressure on the logic board, but I'm worried that'll just make matters worse in the long term.

by

oh yeah, oh yeah, so I wasn't able to fix the issue with the cable. To answer your question, I took the unibody apart and then removed the glass like I was going to switch out the display, but just got the cable out. Uhm, ya I really think it's something with the logic board because i've got a pen under mine as i type.

by

Show 13 more comments

Add a comment

I've got the same problem... mostly. I get the pink lines on white, but not the green on black. My temporary solution is to use a small clamp to apply pressure to the casing just below the right speaker. Its a total kludge, but it solves the problem completely.

Block Image

This is on a 2010, 17" Macbook Pro.

Can anyone explain where the heat sink is that I can look at to try to address this and exactly what you do? Remove/reapply thermal paste to reduce pressure? Add something (a penny?) to apply pressure?

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

Did you ever get your problem resolved?

by

Add a comment

Had needed to take screen off to check hinge. Got this problem on boot up.

Fortunately for me - SMC reset sorted so far.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0
Add a comment

for temporary fix u can go in system preference display colors and create a new profile and select target white point and calibrate it on 6710 point if u have green lines on white portion of ur mac or u can try it ... it works

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0
Add a comment

I had the exact same problem and I just fixed it completely and for free.

I simply tightened all the screws on the underside of the macbook holding the unibody together and it went away instantly. If you can make it go away by pressing down on the back then perhaps the same fix would work with you?

Something must be loose though for just slight lack of pressure to cause this problem I imagine...

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

Keep us posted on how it goes.

by

Add a comment

This pink line problem is remove by following procedure

1 . Remove left side cooling fan

2. Insert wooden pencil (first cut in approx 1 inch in size) in the gap between motherboard and keyboard black paper (purposes is to lift the board)

3 fix fan again

Note Please shut down the computer before removing fan

This is hit and trial method

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0
Add a comment

Add your answer

Mark will be eternally grateful.
View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 13

Past 7 Days: 88

Past 30 Days: 393

All Time: 34,508