MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Microphone Replacement

Restore recording capability by replacing the microphone on your Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody.

Replacing the microphone requires removal of the logic board.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

  • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw.

  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Edit Step 7 Left Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7 Left Fan  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

Edit Step 10 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the upper case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right fan connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • Remove the right fan from the upper case.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Fold the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the iSight cable by pulling its connector toward the optical drive opening.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up from the logic board.

  • Fold the optical drive cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the subwoofer/right speaker cable up to lift its connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the two short Phillips screws securing the small EMI shield to the logic board.

  • Remove the EMI shield from the logic board.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to carefully flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket.

  • Do not pull the cable upward, as the socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the corner of the upper case.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws:

    • Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.

  • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are components on the underside of the logic board attached to the the upper case that must first be disconnected.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

  • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

  • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

  • To avoid ESD damage, be sure to lay your logic board on a soft, static free surface during service.

Edit Step 27 Left Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27 Left Speaker  ¶ 

  • Lift the microphone out of its recess in the left speaker housing.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the left speaker connector.

  • Carefully pull the left speaker wires upward to lift the left speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 30 Microphone  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30 Microphone  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the microphone cables upward to lift the microphone connector out of its socket on the logic board.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 9 In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will, · Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke,

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie, · Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds,

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato,

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe,

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore,

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric,

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger, · Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick, · Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl,

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero, · Reply

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK, · Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful, · Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos, · Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi, · Reply

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels, · Reply

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave, · Reply

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe, · Reply

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark,

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell, · Reply

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname, · Reply

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer,

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke, · Reply

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton,

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi,

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton, · Reply

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie, · Reply

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie, · Reply

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Y1-Tri...

Tao, · Reply

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao, · Reply

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller, · Reply

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy, · Reply

Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

Thats ALL !!!

olivierbartoli, · Reply

I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

khalid alodan, · Reply

There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

Has this happened to anyone else.

Vicki, · Reply

Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

rcoleskelton, · Reply

hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

Best regards Mathias

mathiastondering, · Reply

Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

Vicki, · Reply

How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

cemcatikkas, · Reply

Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

GrooveStomp, · Reply

I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

dave, · Reply

Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

dennishodge, · Reply

One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

Jon, · Reply

I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

jkamis, · Reply

On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

seandodd, · Reply

Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

maccentric,

After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

Laurent Daudelin, · Reply

This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

supersuade, · Reply

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