Apple's line of MacBook Pro laptops was intended for the professional and power users. The MacBook Pro line includes the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody, MacBook Pro 15", MacBook Pro 15" Unibody, MacBook Pro 17", and the MacBook Pro 17" Unibody.

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What are these components named or be identified when shopping for?

So to make a long story short, I have here a MacBook Pro A1286 K91F 15" and it will not power on at all. I've tried the power pads after checking all connections and troubleshooted the DC in jack. Charging light shows. So after closer inspection I noticed two small components are missing from the board that I cannot identify properly because I lack the technical understanding of the cryptic naming system involved with these components. Being brave(as usual), I obtain the schematic and .brdview file and decide to look up the two components. Here is what I have so far. Any suggestions as to where and what I am looking for when going to digikey.com to order these?

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+ You are correct Old Turkey, in my original answer I forgot to add a zero on the inductor ratings. I've been out of the mix for a while - rehabbing houses and playing the piano. I haven't repaired anything for a few years that doesn't involve wood, plumbing, older HVAC, or house electrical. All of which have been very therapeutic. I was bunt out working on electronics and laptops, I needed to walk away for a while to get my head on straight. I am in the process of putting together an electronics workbench again. It is something I can do well. I just need to remember to put some fun into my life, not just work. Thank you for locating this persons parts. Have a wonderful day!

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Both parts are available at Mouser.com. The capacitor can be found here, and the inductor that can be used, is right here. Total cost for the parts around $ 0.50USD Shipping will be far more than the parts, but cheaper than a board.

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You've always been awesome Oldturkey03. Thank you so much. That and now I have a new website to search for parts on. :) :) Thumbs up!!

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Hey Justin Taco--just stopping by to say well done on grabbing your schematic and boardview. That is great to see in the DIY community!

I'll also add that these parts aren't really likely to be the cause of your failure. If you think about it, most tiny capacitors act in the function of signal filter of some sort, their loss will hardly bring a laptop to it's knees. And the other--an inductor coil---well, there's a reason that I had T-shirts made up that say "It's never the coil"

Keep going though! Look for visible damage to be your first guide, if you see none, then start measuring your major power rails from your schematic, and then when you find missing ones, test for shorts to ground. Come back and update this question when you need more help!

Congratulations on getting this far!

Jessa

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Update: I'll definitely be looking at the power rails today as I do have a bit of spare time. There's definitely no signs of visible damage. Which is one of the reasons I haven't thrown out in all this New England snow yet. I'll post as soon as soon as I can today.

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C2670 is a 18 PF (picofarad) Capacitor rated at 50V (volts) with 5% tolerance in the 402 SMD package. That is very small, few people could solder that back on without a stereo microscope. You will find it here at Digikey.

L2451 is a 10 uH (microhenry) Inductor (aka coil or choke), 10uH inductance rating, a current rating of 0.12A (120mA) and 0.36 OHM (360mOHM) in a 603 SMD package. If Digikey has it you will find it among these here.

This should be enough information for a brave soul, such as yourself, to find what you are looking for. If you have any more questions on this matter. Please feel free to ask thru comment option. One of us will do our best to answer or guide you. Good Luck!

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Thanks ABCellars, that was so incredibly helpful. Would you also happen to know of where I can get a guide on components knowledge of this sort. Reading these schematics are almost mind boggling. I know how to make the repairs as long as I know what usually needs to be replaced and gaining insight to actual troubleshooting is something I look forward to.

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Could you maybe rephrase what you are wanting? I am not exactly sure what you are wanting. I am guessing you would like information on how to interpret the component values on the schematic?

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Exactly the question I had. Sorry for the confusion.

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Unfortunate Digikey did not have the replacements I was looking for and will need to wait until I have a bit of dough for a donor board to get this working. Both components weren't found online.

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Also, I aopologize. the description on this board is incorrect. It's actually the K91F 820-2915-B.

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Bet fifty bucks neither of those components are causing the problem!

Which power rails are missing?

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You'd win that fifty bucks too. Because right after I replaced them, I do get signs of life only when I do the SMC bypass. Just the fans spin up on full power and nothing. Checking those power rails tomorrow though.

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Somthing's F'd it up

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p.s. That 18PF capacitor was "!&&*" (The worst) to put on carefully. luckily I'm nearsighted and the solder paste gave it some adhesive when getting it placed on the board. But never again.......

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After replacing those two components and some awesome help at Advancedreworks Forum. The Glorious Boot and Chime. What a wonderful sign that is. I'm just going to get used to the weirdness of these macbook pros and ect....So here's what happened. After cleaning it down with 95 % alcohol (the one you buy online for component cleaning), I plugged everything back, because something's alive because when I do the SMC bypass all the power rails are on. Maybe there's something I missed. Who knows? So first I press the power button and nothing. Then I do the SMC bypass with my external HD copy of the mac attached (Needed because there was no original HD in this one). It boots waddya know? But 10% into my installation of Yosemite it powers down completely. Why? because it's running off battery and had shut the charger down after the original SMC bypass.

So I disconnect the charger and connect the charger just to be sure. Sure enough the Charger goes green then amber which is all good. So I say &&^& it and let the charger charge the battery. While working for about 30 mins on another computer. I hear in the background the Glorious boot and chime again. Only this time the Amber light is on meaning it's charging the battery and booting up. I'm an idiot a retarded idiot for not doing this after I had replaced both that inductor and capacitor. Now I have a working macbook pro and it's been charging for the hour and still on the Yosemeti desktop. Thank goodness.

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Also as a short note. This model requires a fully or semi charged battery to start up properly. It draws power from both the battery and the charger to get started. Something I was unaware of the whole time.

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Justin Aka Taco will be eternally grateful.
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