Kindle Fire Teardown



Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

Amazon proposes to offer users a full media experience with their $199 tablet. It didn't take long until we decided to see what they crammed inside this value package.

Did this teardown kindle a fiery passion for gadget disassembly in you? Follow @ifixit on Twitter to stay up to date with the latest teardown antics.

Edit Step 1 Kindle Fire Teardown  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Kindle Fire Teardown  ¶ 

  • We have only one burning desire; let us tear into this Fire.

    • 7" Multi-Touch Display with IPS Technology

    • Dual-Core Processor

    • 512 MB RAM

    • 8 GB Internal Storage

    • 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Connectivity

    • Custom Operating System (Based on Android 2.3 Gingerbread)

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • In case you couldn't identify the Kindle Fire by its sleek looks, the back panel has been stylishly embossed with "kindle." The smooth, rubberized texture of the panel complements the small size quite well to provide a nice feel when holding the Fire in one hand.

  • The Kindle Fire is officially identified as model number D01400.

  • According to the power specifications listed on the back side of the Kindle Fire, an input power of 5 V DC at 1.8 Amps is suggested. Why is this important? A computer USB port typically puts out no more than .9 Amps (USB 3.0), which means it'll take a looong time to fully charge the tablet through USB.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • The Fire has a very simplified design that includes a mere two ports and one button—all found on the bottom of the device.

  • The first port is a standard 3.5mm headphone jack, but the volume must be controlled from inside each app, as there are no external volume buttons.

  • The port in the middle is a Micro-USB port for connecting the Fire to your computer. The Fire can also charge its battery when plugged into a computer, though it will take longer than charging directly from the AC outlet.

  • The only button on this tablet is a power button, located on the bottom of the Fire right next to the ports.

  • The Kindle Fire has a similar port configuration as the iPad 2, utilizing only a single port for data transfer and charging.

  • The Fire's dimensions are 7.5" x 4.7" x 0.45". Compared to the iPad 2 whose dimensions are 9.5" x 7.3" x 0.34", the Fire looks a little like a chew-toy for the much larger iPad 2.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Our old friend, plastic opening tool, comes to our aid as well as our musical friend, the guitar pick.

  • A little prying and plucking and the case's halves yield to our efforts.

    • Thankfully the Kindle's case separates with a lot less effort than a certain product line we know.

  • Removing the back case reveals the motherboard and a behemoth of a battery. Note the shiny metal plates on the back case that help provide protection for the internal components, as well as heat sinking and EMI shielding. Unfortunately, this mirror-like shielding inevitably results in a narcissistic battery.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Only one connector and some glue keep this monstrous battery in its place—no match for our trusty spudger and plastic opening tool.

  • With the battery freed, we take a closer look at the Fire's 4.6" tall x 4.3" wide Li-Ion battery.

  • This battery sure puts out... 16.28 Watt-hours, to be exact. However, due to the size of the Fire, its battery's 3.7 V potential and 4400 mAh capacity don't quite stack up to the specs of the iPad 2 Wi-Fi's battery.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • The touchscreen controller is easily detached from the motherboard after removing a few screws.

  • To gain access to the motherboard, we must first disconnect a couple of connectors from their respective sockets.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • A few more twists with our Phillips #0 from our 54 Piece Bit Driver Kit releases the motherboard from the Kindle's grasp.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • We put on our classy monocle magnifying glass to help us identify the ICs:

    • Samsung KLM8G2FEJA 8 GB Flash Memory

    • Hynix H9TKNNN4K 512 MB of Mobile DDR2 RAM

    • Texas Instruments 603B107 Fully Integrated Power Management IC with Switch Mode Charger

    • Texas Instruments LVDS83B FlatLink 10-135 MHz Transmitter

    • Jorjin WG7310 WLAN/BT/FM Combo Module

    • Texas Instruments AIC3110 Low-Power Audio Codec With 1.3W Stereo Class-D Speaker Amplifier

    • Texas Instruments WS245 4-Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • It's desoldering time. After busting out the heat gun, we quickly get to work searching for what secrets lie beneath the Hynix RAM chip.

  • Eureka! Lifting off the RAM chip, we find the 1 GHz processor— a Texas Instruments OMAP 4430.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Continuing our IC exploration, we decided to sneak a peak under the Jorjin cover. We uncovered a Texas Instruments WL1270B 802.11 b/g/n Wi-Fi solution.

  • According to Chipworks, the WL1270 is an older chip that was designed to work with the TI OMAP 3530. It's interesting that the Fire has it, given that it's coupled with the newer OMAP 4430.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • One more screw holds the power button board in place.

  • The Kindle Fire's sole button is used to turn the device on/off or tell it to sleep/wake.

    • Be careful telling your device what to do; we hear it has a fiery temper.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • A couple more Phillips #0 screws are removed from the Fire and off comes the speaker assembly.

  • The speaker assembly seems about on par with the speaker assemblies of some other tablets.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • What do the Kindle Fire and a fruit fly have in common?

  • Thanks to the help of our Phillips #0 screwdriver, now neither have a backbone.

    • For those of you that thought it had to do with short lifespan, you were mistaken. We actually have high hopes for this little tablet.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Separating the display from the glass was a breeze, which was a nice departure from the usual fused glass ordeals.

  • Don't be fooled by the display's current state of black lifelessness. When powered on, the LG-manufactured 7" (diagonal) display gives users an eye-pleasing array of 16 million colors at a resolution of 1024 x 600 pixels.

  • Sharing the screen with friends and family is made easy thanks to the application of In-Plane Switching (IPS) which allows for a wider viewing angle.

    • We may be comparing apples and oranges here, but the original Kindle contained roughly 15,999,996 fewer colors. They were as follows: gray-ish, gray, grayer, and grayest.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Here we have the front panel assembly in all its glory.

  • The touchscreen controller is designed by ILITEK and is marked as 2107QS001K A95B8F416 A2130B002

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Kindle Fire Repairability Score: 8 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).

  • The rear case is very easy to open, granting trouble-free access to the internals.

  • All the fasteners found inside are Phillips #0 screws—one non-proprietary screwdriver is all you need.

  • The LCD is not fused to the display, making replacement an easy task, if necessary.

  • Simplistic design and limited functionality means fewer components and less headache for disassembly.

  • A decent amount of adhesive is used on the battery and motherboard, meaning some prying and gentle working is required for disassembly.

  • The glass panel is fused to the front plastic frame, meaning a heat gun is required for replacing cracked glass (or you have to replace both components together).

Required Tools


$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

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Heat Gun

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Plastic Opening Tools

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iFixit Opening Picks set of 6

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

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Pro Magnetic Project Mat

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Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

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Anti-Static Project Tray

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Just stumbled on this from the front page of google news, nice work guys!

Andrew Bookholt, · Reply

You know how we do it brah lol =)

Walter Galan,

Is the power button a solid cylinder, or is it a capped tube? I ask because I'd like to file down the protruding portion of the button. (I keep hitting it inadvertently, and shutting the KF down.) Is it possible to grind away a fraction of the protrusion without wrecking it? Thanks!

John, · Reply

You'd be safe - it is just a sprung plastic pusher that contacts a micro switch located 0.7 cm further inside (on the 'mother board').


Dear iFixit,

What is in the upper left hand corner under the bezel. Is it a sensor of some sort ? I tried putting my finger on it, but the display brightness did not change. (the object in question is nearly invisible, but can be seen if you shine a light on it.) Could this even be a camera lens ?

Mandeepak Pujji, · Reply

summary review Kindle fire vs ipad2@

and Pls visit KindleStore by @

thank you for visit :)

Toni DeathToni, · Reply

It's 8GB on paper, but when you hook it up to your PC via USB it only lets you load 5GB of content. I think this is a hard partition to protect the OS and perhaps other loaded content. Whatever it is, it's a little tight for me.

wsy3986, · Reply

My micro USB connector got yanked sideways - resulting in needing perfect positioning to get it charged and connected to a PC via USB. I followed the procedure here, and found solder joints broken - a bit of really fine scale re-soldering, and good as new. Here's some additional info: 1) Pry the bottom OUTWARDS away from the body to disengage the plastic snap-in joints. 2) There are THREE ribbon cable connectors that have a latch that flips up to disengage. 3) Lift the edge of the "mother board" that is closest to the battery (after screw removal) to disengage 'mother board'

bruceebennett, · Reply

Step 4,5,6:

Be careful of the wi-fi antenna connector and the routing of the cable. Carefully remove the cable from its socket, and remember how it went in when it comes time to replace it. I had a heckuva time getting that tiny connector back into its port. Without it, your wi-fi signal strength will not be sufficient to make a constant connectioin into your network

ifixit staff: If possible, show a photo of the connector and the cable in its proper position and when it has been removed. Perhaps a close up photo of the cable connector and the port.

Thanks for a GREAT resource, I used the ifixit tear down guide to replace the battery on my wife's Kindle Fire, then discovered a better helpful photo and comment in the Kindle Fire Power Button ifixit guide.

Jeff Jones, · Reply

Yes, I was reading under a bright sunny sky the very next morning I received it. It's not as "eye friendly" as a black/white Kindle but tolerable. Ironically, bright colors such as magazines are a bit washed but that's to be expected. Just like a real magazine gets a sun glare the same thing happens with the Fire. Again, it's still readable. Just saw this on:

suthapklomrod, · Reply


I am writing a dissertation on the carbon footprint of a kindle fire, the only problem is I cannot find out the weight of some of its components! I know this is a long shot but would you know how much the screen, motherboard and plastic back weigh?

Would so appreciate any info you could give me!

Thanks so much,


christina, · Reply

Hi Christina. I too am doing a project (LCA) on the kindle and would love to learn more about the weights and impacts that you have found. How does someone best get in touch with another this through this type of forum? I would appreciate it if you could share your findings through a dropbox link or the like and post it here as a reply to this message. Kind Regards - Nicc


Hello my headphone port on my kindle fire hasn't been working.... am I able to fix it by tAking the kindle apart

Jacob Purcell, · Reply

So what if it is really messed up like cracked screen red green & yellow lines running through it. Is it worth fixing? I myself wouldn't do try to fix it. So is there a place that might repair it and not charge half my body?

myra, · Reply

Anyone know the value of this resistor?

Katai, · Reply

the place where i plug in my usb cable to charge the battery seems to have a missing piece of the terminal that it connects would i get it to work so i can charge it again?

readyornot6809, · Reply

My kindle fire switches on and off ok and charges ok but I cannot unlock it as the touchscreen controller is no longer working. Can this be repaired?

Allan, · Reply

my kindle is doing the same any insight you might have gained? jim

jim toms ,

I cracked open my Kindle Fire 1st gen to replace the speakers, and found that the parts don't match! The WLAN cover is COMPLETELY different from the images above, and the RAM module isn't of the same manufacturer. Their RAM module is from Hynix and my RAM module is from Elpida! Unnoticed hardware changes between batches of Kindle Fires!

Kiraisuki, · Reply

I'm replacing the screen on my wifes kindle fire and there is a black film that is stuck to the busted screen and it don't want to come off of the old screen. The new screen I have don't have this. What is it and do I need to buy one and where can I find it?

Jake whiddon, · Reply

looking for the replacement usb port. any reccomendations on where to acquire this item?

joe, · Reply

Hi Joe, find the piece you mention ?, I'm looking for it


My Kindle Fire took a joy ride on the front of my fiance's car. It slid off during a stop and was later picked up, which appeared to be unharmed, since it was in a case. Well, it just sits at the load screen and never loads. What component should I look at in detail. I has a small scratch at the speaker end. I took off the cover and I don't see anything obvious.

Stephanie, · Reply

Does the presence of the Jorjin WG7310 WLAN/BT/FM Combo Module indicate that the Fire is capable of Bluetooth in its hardware? If so, it'll be exciting to see if CyanogenMod can enable it -- as it did with the Nook Color.

Karen Nakamura, · Reply

Yes, it does - and there's been a lot of folks seeking this Holy Grail. No joy yet, though.


I hear that there is an internal micro SD card slot on the motherboard.

Can you please outline which connector that it is?

James Wrightsman, · Reply

Mine is open - and I do not see any such thing.


I would like sysboot mappings. Can you remove the processor and map to the resistors on the top right? This would allow UnBrickable mod on this device a lot easier. I would like to get one for teardown. It would make developing on this device easier. But please, map out this resistors to their pads.

AdamOutler, · Reply

Do any of you know if removing the whole Jorjin WG7310 WLAN/BT/FM Combo Module from the circuit board would cause any problems for the rest of the device?


The reason I ask is I heat gunned it off but I may have taken something extra off.


The Fire still "works" as in it turns on and I can run apps. What doesn't work is the Setting>Device menu. When I try to access it, the Fire locks up and I have hard reset it. I also can't get it to mount as a removable drive to my laptop. When I connect the USB cable the Fire looks like it mounts and the "eject hardware" shows a drive letter but under explorer there is no drive letter. When connected via USB the Fire has an orange spinning circle where the disconnect button use to be.


So do you think removing the Jorjin Module did all this or do you think I might have removed something extra in the process?


PS. I have my reasons for wanting to remove the wireless feature..

JLH, · Reply

How many watts in speakers .

Achraf52, · Reply

What is blue Ribbon cable? Is that a Flaxible Flat Cable?

What type of that cable?

Alex Shin, · Reply

The long L-folded flat cable connects to a small PCB in the lower right of the first photo of step 13. What is this small PCB used for?

g2sb, · Reply

Looks to me like its an ambient light sensor. You can see an opaque dot in the top left corner of front view photos.


That small PCB pokes through a hole at the top of the display bezel, which tells us that it is likely the ambient light sensor.

David Hodson,

Would be nice to know what it is in the upper left corner. Even the guys at Amazon are clueless. Responses are "It is PROBABLY a light sensor". Could someone find out for sure? I am surprised there was no mention of it in the teardown at all.

Harry, · Reply

The audio plug evidently includes audio in. Standard 4 conductor (2 ch stereo out, 1 in like iPhone headset plug). Some audio apps apparently work okay with this.

Tom Semple, · Reply

The last two strings of the touchscreen controller identification seem to be batch-specific. Over at the TechRepublic is a nice picture of this piece as well and the last two strings are A95B9F695 A2135B010-20


masterjo, · Reply

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