Introduction

Is your SIM card getting stuck in your phone? Use this guide to replace, or reseat a faulty SIM eject lever in your iPhone SE.

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Reply

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Reply

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Reply

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Reply

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/3: Regardless of the tool you use, '''you need to be sure you pull up the entire display'''. Image 2/3: If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case. Image 3/3: If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.
  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Reply

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Reply

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Reply

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Reply

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Reply

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Reply

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Reply

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Reply

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Reply

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Reply

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Reply

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Reply

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Reply

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Reply

Image 1/1: Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.
  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Reply

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Reply

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Reply

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Reply

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Reply

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Reply

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Reply

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Reply

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Reply

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Reply

Image 1/2: Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Image 2/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Reply

Image 1/3: Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. '''Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.''' Image 2/3: Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. '''If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.''' Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.
  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

  • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Reply

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Reply

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Reply

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Reply

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Reply

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Reply

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Reply

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Reply

Image 1/2: Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right. Image 2/2: Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.
  • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, and the front must latch down over the connector.

  • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Reply

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Reply

That was fun without tweezers :)

olichtarski - Reply

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Reply

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Reply

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Reply

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Reply

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Reply

Image 1/2: If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit. Image 2/2: If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

  • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful. Image 2/2: Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Reply

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Reply

Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables. Image 3/3: In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Reply

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Reply

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Reply

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Image 2/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Reply

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Reply

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Reply

Image 1/1: One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

      • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Reply

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

so these are wrong?:

http://www.iphonebits.co.uk/wp-content/u...

https://blogetechparts.files.wordpress.c...

As they suggest the long screws go on the left...

holvoetsteve -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Reply

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Reply

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Reply

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Reply

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Reply

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Reply

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Reply

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Reply

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Reply

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Reply

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Reply

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Reply

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Reply

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Reply

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Reply

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Reply

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Reply

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Reply

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Reply

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Reply

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Reply

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Reply

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Reply

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Reply

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

Image 1/2: Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force. Image 2/2: Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.

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Image 1/1: When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #00 securing the SIM eject lever.

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Image 1/2: Note the orientation for reassembly; the wider end should line up with the SIM eject hole. Image 2/2: Note the orientation for reassembly; the wider end should line up with the SIM eject hole.
  • Remove the SIM eject lever from the iPhone.

  • Note the orientation for reassembly; the wider end should line up with the SIM eject hole.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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