Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen on your iPhone 6. This guide will show you how to remove the old display and the home button. If you do not transfer your phone's original home button to the new display, you will lose Touch ID functionality.

If your replacement part does not have a speaker or front-facing camera sensor cable you should follow the complete transfer guide.

You can also use this guide to replace the front panel assembly cable bracket.

Video Overview

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

Remove the home button bracket from the front panel. Remove the home button bracket from the front panel.
  • Remove the home button bracket from the front panel.

It is possible to over-tighten these screws, causing the home button to malfunction.

doog - Reply

It is also possible for the tiny metal piece (not really a screw) that goes over the center of the home button to come out of the bracket & be lost, which will cause issues for making contact when the button is pressed. Now I can't seem to find any kits with a complete replacement...not sure if this is going to affect my fingerprint id capability because I'm having another issue of my phone being disabled due to the cracked lcd that caused the security code to be input several times which has locked me out completely. I'm still trying to find a way to not lose the pictures and videos that I haven't downloaded to my computer. Anyone have any ideas on either issue? Thanks in advance! ;-)

Dawn - Reply

Are the home buttons for a 6 plus and 6s plus interchangeable?

Sheila Smith - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector by pushing it up and away from the home button.

During this step, I couldn't separate the two connectors. I accidentally managed to tear the flex cable which passes under the LCD shield/plate and up to the other LCD connectors which attach to the motherboard. Can this cable be replaced to restore Touch ID functionality if everything else is intact?

I can't see any special chip on that part, just seems like an I/O connector?

James - Reply

Yep you can. Touch ID functionality won't be lost.

Didier Daniel -

I have found by gently heating the broken screen side with a heat gun or reworker, it makes removing the home button and the connector so much easier to remove with the tip of the spudger and a press on the home button from the front side

darren - Reply

Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel. Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it free with a spudger.
  • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply mild heat (with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer) and try again.

I used a hair dryer on this part. It made removing the home button extremely easy. Just take it slow

peterhubner - Reply

I too used a hair dryer and slow pressure as did Peter. I found that the adhesive would slowly release if I just held a little constant pressure with my finger and waited.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger. Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.
  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

Don't get in a hurry with the ribbon. Heat and a gradual constant pressure did the trick.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully separate the home button cable from the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • If the cable doesn't separate easily, apply heat using an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again. Be careful not to damage the cable.

Add Comment

Once all the adhesive has been separated, remove the home button from the front panel.
  • Once all the adhesive has been separated, remove the home button from the front panel.

    • If you are replacing a broken front panel, there may be glass shards stuck to the home button. Carefully remove any remaining glass before transferring your home button to a new display.

One thing to note for re-assembly. You have to make sure the home button is firmly in place. Otherwise, a lack of adhesive will cause the home button to sink into the iPhone after it's fully assembled when you try to press it.

rskrobe - Reply

Are you sure that you screwed the metal plate back in far enough? I don't have any issues and can't believe that Apple would rely on adhesive to hold the home button from sinking into the phone. Especially as it's the most pressed button on the iPhone.

Thomas Hallett -

Yeah, you have to buy new gaskets if you want you're home button to stick to the digitizer frame when pressing. Don't believe me? Just see what happens when you press the button without new adhesive :) And heck I bought 50 gaskets for only $5 from China.

Didier Daniel -

On the old screen,there were 2 little rubber covers that fit on the screw mounts (that hold the pentalobe screws from Step 1) that I transferred to the new part.

jefowler4th - Reply

I would add a few extra steps to this (i had to disassemble and reassemble 5 times).

First, adding the Ifixit forward facing camera replacement, and I would add the steps 12-16 fromt his guide on how to take off the heat shield (also has the fingerprint cable).

http://www.instructables.com/id/iPhone-6...

Thanks again.

Roland Bodenheim - Reply

after placing the home button again, it dose not read my finger prints anymore! any idea? Thanks.

Khal Sh - Reply

For all the iphone 6 series once the original home button ribbon is torn or damaged the touch ID will never work again. Even if you replace the home button/ribbon. This is a security feature implemented by Apple. Once the original cable for the phone has been damaged or replaced, the touch ID functionality is gone forever.

Tony - Reply

Dear After replacing the cracked screen successfully I turn it ON and the apple logo keeps coming and going as if it is like rebooting continuously any IDEA?

Cesar

cesarclaudio - Reply

I'm having the same issue. Did you ever get a response to your question?

Kevin Rivera -

This is missing a step ... most replacement screen assemblies also are missing a small metal plate that sits under the place where the home button connector and flex cable connector rest. Apparently without this metal the touch ID cannot be enabled. That said .. I'll not know on this phone since after following these directions and finding out I needed to pull apart the home button a second time to place this metal plate there the connector would not separate and it ripped the flex cable from the connectors completely. Now it's time to get a new home button and touch ID will never work on this phone again :(

cueball - Reply

My new screen comes with the home button cable, if I just swap the original home button to the new front panal will I retain touch ID? Or do I need the original cable too?

nathanation - Reply

if you want touch id to work the cable going from the home button to the logic board must be changed also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEWAQiu...

Eric Ocegueda - Reply

That isn't what my home button looks like? It didn't have the little sensor on it, just the button and it still worked but now doesn't... Anyone know why?

Emie Jayne - Reply

despues de serguir la guia fue exitosa solo que tengo un problema no reconoce la huella me dice error al configurar el touch id alguna solucion???

CHARLES - Reply

When I was transferring my home button, it was covered in tiny shards of glass as the instructions warned. I found I was able to remove many of the shards and to clean up the button by wrapping a piece of scotch tape around my finger sticky side out and then gently dabbing at the shards.

davechar - Reply

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205628

Does this iOS update mean that it is no longer necessary to replace the cable going from the home button to the logic board as well?

Peter Barnett - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

1237 other people completed this guide.

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

127 Members

6,639 Guides authored

103 Comments

Its a good advice to remove the battery power before mounting the flex-cables.

There is power on the second logic-board (even if the phone is turned off) connector from top, misplacing it while assembly can cause short circuit.

peter - Reply

Will the short circuit damage the logic board or the camera / earpiece assembly? I'm worried just encountered this very issue even though the phone was off. FF camera and earpiece not functioning.

Eagle Micro -

Good advice two: When removing the LCD back shield plate have in mind that the home button connector attached to the shield plate is Very fragile. Its adhered to the screen. Use very little force and do not heat the adhesive too much because then it become even More fragile.

I use ifixits metal spudger without heat but one small mistake and it can be teared.

peter - Reply

I have now changed two of these on my phone from different suppliers and both haven't worked!

Could it be that both have been defective products or am I doing something wrong!?!?

Kieran -

What seems to be the issue you face from the possibly defective parts?

Corun MCCarthy - Reply

There's so many non-Apple manufacturer's out there that it could be any set of issues. Low quality adhesive or misalignment of the bezzle has been my issue but most Non-Apple LCDs will work fine. And I'm surprised how fast the i6 and i6+ LCDs have came down in price without sacrificing quality. I think Apple's low $100 repair price point has something to do with it.

Eric Thomas -

i try to repair 2 iphone 6 screen and now i have 2 iphone 6 with only lines in the screens and those 2 screen where working just fine

what iam doing wrong ??

djcornelissen - Reply

i had this problem when i was checking out if my lcd was working when i pulled the glas of.

The problem was i didn't plug the 2 lcd kabels good in.

Taron -

Make sure all the cables are down correctly. You also may have purchased bad screens.

Steve -

I was informed by Apple today that the Home Button from original Iphone 6 damaged screen, must be installed on the new replacement screen, otherwise the phone will not operate.

metropcseverettmall - Reply

how can i remove the home button in order to replace it on the new front panel?

nicolasmangoldmoro -

I tried one on amazon and repair my iphone6 easily.It works perfectly ,the replacement part does sit slightly higher than the oem Apple assembly.I think they have products QA strictly.

here is the product

http://www.amazon.com/Quality-iPhone-Dig...

569330811 - Reply

i tried one on amazon,repair it myself and it works perfectly.The replacement part does sit slightly higher than the oem Apple assembly.I think it very good!

569330811 - Reply

If you reassembling the iphone 6 display do you have to put a glue for it?

Amar Dwarka - Reply

Can this be used to replace a cracked iPhone 6s glass?

dg1 - Reply

Wrong order of cords? Steps 14 &15.

I am trying to reinstall the cords and for some reason, the cords seem to be in the wrong order. Can someone help??!!!

laurensmolic - Reply

Yes very simple fix. This likely happens quite often. You have to lift on the top cord and allow for the middle cord to be repositioned in its proper place. You'll see what I'm talking about upon further investigation! Good success mates. My issue is these darn Chinese screens being defective. Serious issues with pixels and "lines" down middle of screen.

Nikola Tes -

Do the cables on an iphone 6 display fit on the board of a 6 plus? Simply want to test this board and dont have a 6 plus screen assembly at the moment

Josh Layall - Reply

My replacement screen isn't still flushed near the mute button. You can see the light bleed at night. How do I fix it?

Michael C - Reply

My 6 plus screen is cracked, and only about half an inch all the way down on the side shows my screen (sometimes it doesn't, the rest is black with colored lines running down it though it also changes colors sometimes). If I drag my screen down for the notification center I can kind of see it bounce down alittle for a moment.

How do I know if I just need a new panel (about $26) or an entire screen/LCD replacement ($100+)?

palidinodh - Reply

Unfortunately, it's not possible to replace the front glass separately without a lot of expensive equipment (and a lot of practice). You will need to replace the entire glass and display assembly as a unit. Be sure to follow the correct guide; the iPhone 6 Plus guide is here.

Jeff Suovanen -

My fingerprint isn't working. It'ss not even recognizing a fingerprint is being used. What could be the issue? Everything else works.

Austin Prince - Reply

I had the same problem and last week I upgraded to iOS 10 and VOILÁ, fingerprint WORKING!

I think it is because the fingerprint is configured to work and match its unique iPhone motherboard, So when I changed the screen it lost the connection. Hope it works 4 u!

One thing: I upgraded to iOS 10 doing a FULL RESTORE because I wanted to start from ZERO!

Gabriela -

Why go this route when going through apple is cheaper?

jonathanzollinger - Reply

Firstly, some people don't have access to a local Apple Store. For example, some more rural states like Alaska, Iowa, or Idaho only have one Apple store, and Montana doesn't have any. Besides that, if you're skilled and confident enough at this procedure it is more convenient to do the work yourself rather than having to go out and get the job done on someone else's schedule.

Evan Noronha -

Because you're wrong and it's not cheaper. Buying the parts here is expensive. Elsewhere it's like $20-30 so.. duh.

roundo32 -

wow this was tricky. i recommend you do this in the beginning of the day with full daylight and patience!

my hand started shanking and my eyes went blurry after one hour. that didn't help!

i replaced the wifi/gps/bluetooth flex ribbon cable just last month so was feeling confident going in.. its not for the light hearted. you can do it but allow several hours

i though the part i'd received was wrong as i couldn't get the digitiser connector and the three other connectors reconnected.. on the right of the front facing camera.. then i realised i had them in the wrong order, after i'd stuffed around with them for ages.

good luck everyone!

sarah - Reply

its a tricky job. do it in the morning with full energy and daylight!

my hand got shaky and my eyes got blurry one hour in.

sarah - Reply

My daughter broke her iPhone on Sunday.

I ordered the LCD panel and Digitizer repair kit the same day.

It got to Oslo, Norway Wednesday.

The replacement was smooth and easy using the guid, fixed the Phone and made dinner at the same time.

Spent 50min in total.

Very good experience :)

trulshaugen79 - Reply

Can I ask where you bought from? I’m in Oslo too and need a fast screen. Tusen takk

Stefan O -

Helpful guide, I had to go ahead and remove the LCD shield and front facing camera as well. The camera was the only difficult thing.

One question- does anyone know why one of the pentalobe screws is refusing to go back in all the way?

Lauren May - Reply

Sometimes the screw holes/threads in the display don't align perfectly with the ones in the case. Try pressing down gently on the lower edge of the display and see if the screws go in any further. When the display is aligned correctly, the screws should go in very easily. Just experiment a little, and you'll get it. The only exception I've found is with cheap replacement displays, where the alignment can be a lot more difficult to get right because the part itself isn't really within spec.

Jeff Suovanen -

Just replaced my screen assembly - pretty straightforward. Now, touch ID doesn't work...yay. Any suggestions?

jlapic - Reply

Hey bro I have had difficulty trying to bring back life to the fingerprint scanner aswell , Anyways it will successfully function properly if you update your phone via iTunes not through the the iPhone settings !, For a better success rate I suggest you fully erase your iPhone through iTunes and start again through its 10 for example ✊ Good luck !

Jimmy Hira -

Hi bro hope this guide can help solve your problem:

http://www.hcqs.us/blog/fix-iphone-6-tou...

Jennychan -

Once my replacement screen is all plugged in the very bottom of the touch screen doesn't work....like when in calls I can't select favorites, recent calls or voicemail. What did i eff up

caseys211 - Reply

I also have this issue! Can anyone help with this?

Gabriel -

I have the same problem. Could you please let me know how you have solved it? The very bottom of my screen is not reacting at all.

Gaby Luong -

I replaced my screen several times. However this time the very bottom of the touch screen doesn’t work/isn’t reacting anymore. (Not able to text or swipe up my control center). Does anybody know a solution for my problem? I would be very grateful.

Gaby Luong -

Read the instructions and comments on this step. You most likely have a digitizer with an incomplete connection to the logic board. Disconnect it and reconnect it, making sure the socket is clean and the connector gets fully seated, and try again. If that doesn’t work, you may have a damaged connector, a damaged cable, or a faulty replacement part. If your old display still works, swapping it back in for a quick test may help you narrow it down. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi all,

I did this and worked great, although for some reason the on/off button wont work. What do I do now? It was working before hand but isn't now :o

Thanks for the great website!

David Gibbons - Reply

If your replacement screen looks bluish, try turning on "Night Shift" in "Display & Brightness" setting at all times (e.g. 10AM to 9:59AM), and then adjust the "Color Temperature" until it looks natural. At first I was upset that my replacement screen looked different, but now it looked as good as the old screen!

ace1905 - Reply

Great tutorial. Very simple

Lakeram Edmond - Reply

I have done numerous iphone 6 front assembly replacements but the last two i ordered from ifixit have been defective which means one thing.. I just lost a client. If you order an iphone 6 full assembly, I would go ahead and order the most expensive one. The less expensive ones ( had this problem with the last two I ordered) do not close near the volume buttons.. you can see into the phone and there is a ripple right above the home button anytime the slightest pressure is put on the phone .. either on the screen or home button. Thats two assemblys being returned for being defective. I have been fixing phones for quite a while and this is the first time this has happened to me with any of the parts I ordered from ifixit. Pretty disappointing. Now I have to take this phone to a repair shop and pay them to do it and pay full price just so I can get the phone back to the client. What a bummer.

gocaps25 - Reply

Hi there, gocaps25! I'm sorry to hear about the trouble with those displays! We'd like to take care of these problems for you. Please contact our iFixit Pro team as they know best how to help. The quickest, easiest way would be through this page: http://pro.ifixit.com/contact

Thanks!

Kadan Sharpe -

I did this, all good but touch ID dont work anymore, i changed back to the original home button, erased my phone and restored, still not working, any advice ?

Jarkko Kononen - Reply

Just completed this replacement now.

I'm in China, so i ordered a replacement screen on Taobao for about 300 RMB ($40) and followed these instructions.

Very clear guide, excellent photos and it really pointed out the mistakes not to make.

It took me about 30 minutes on my lunch break at my desk. And now my fully functioning phone is back - home button works, front-facing camera works, earpiece works. All good.

If you take your time, get the correct tools and follow these instructions to the letter, I think pretty much anyone could do this replacement.

Thanks to the author and other commenters for providing input.

Mike Ward - Reply

Easy peasy. Only fiddly part was trying not to tear the membrane on the Home button. The accompanying video did not mention disconnecting the battery but was helpful for orientation. Magnifying glasses helpful for old farts.

Lawrence Ebisuzaki - Reply

Issue: iPhone 6 "y" spot when texting (with the phone being held upright) isn't reponsing when pressed. The screen isn't cracked, looks great.

Of course, it's been turned on and off. Would replacing the screen fix the dead spot or am I wasting my money.

tgodwin06 - Reply

This is a good guide, but it is literally a miracle that reattaching the ribbon cables fixed my iPhone touch unresponsiveness. Seriously, a direct answer to prayer.

Joshua Boak - Reply

i think i've screwed up in the way, after replacing my screen both my cameras and flash stopped working, it must have got short circuited. can someone please guide me through fixing it, i'm sure the screen and the cable are genuine as they are from another iphone.

Santosh Karnati - Reply

The only way you could have short circuited the parts is if you did not disconnect the battery. It's more likely you did not connect the cables correctly and inadvertently disconnected the rear camera cable during reassembly. Have you tested the flash using the flashlight feature or only the camera? It's possible the flash isn't firing solely because there's no camera detected.

Evan Noronha -

I'm disappointed in my replacement assembly. Looking at the comments, it seems that I'm not the only person who's assembly leaks light above the mute rocker and seems less "touchy" than the original screen. Clicking an "a" from the onscreen keyboard, for instance, rarely results in an "a" showing up. You've got to punch at it a few times, which becomes really annoying after only a few sentences.

I've ordered other replacement screens from iFixIt and have been very happy with them in the past. The iPhone 6 replacement assembly isn't quality and I would not recommend purchasing it.

shon - Reply

Hi there, Shon! Thanks for your feedback! Sorry to hear about the light bleeding trouble. We'd like to make sure you're satisfied with your purchase with us, so I've contacted you via email so we can try and resolve this issue and get you taken care of. I look forward to your email response. Thanks!

Kadan Sharpe -

Shon, did they get you a satisfactory replacement?

Blake Fosdick -

Awesome! I used this to learn and did my 1st screen replacement! NOW I'm confident starting my business!!!!

rondellrandall - Reply

I purchased the front panel assembly to repair a cracked screen. After completing the repair, the iPhone would not turn on - it went into a reboot loop, intermittently showing a flashing red screen. I did a hard restart, (unsuccessfully) attempted a DFU restore, all with the same results. Eventually, I checked all the connections on the front assembly to the phone one by one (with the phone disassembled, I plugged in each connector and CAREFULLY booted up the phone). Eventually I narrowed it down to the home button connector on the new front assembly. With this cable attached the phone would not boot, without it connected the phone booted immediately (obviously without a functional home button).

I swapped the aluminum plate from the original front assembly with the new front assembly (the aluminum plate has the home connector cable attached). This immediately fixed the problem and the phone immediately booted and has worked perfectly since then.

Toby Leftly - Reply

Hi Toby, thanks for your feedback! Sorry to hear about the trouble. We'd like to make sure you're satisfied with your purchase with us, so I've contacted you via email so we can try and resolve this issue and get you taken care of. I look forward to your email response. Thanks!

Matt Fuss -

Thanks for the great and accerssible guide. Having repaired a few iPhone 5's, this was really easy to get into. However I do have one perssisting problem.

I bought an iPhone 6 replacement screen assembly from the eustore. When assembling everything, I found that the home button connector cable on the bottom of the display unit (step 25) is too long in my replacement part. Thus, it overlaps with the little circuit board part of the home button cable, so the metal bracket does not fit too well when reassembled. This causes the home button to bea little loose, so it can't be fastened in a flush position with the display glass. This bothers me so much that I disassembled everything again, to try and change the position of the wires, without finding a satisfying solution. Is this a known problem with the display assembly?

Christoph Ley - Reply

Followed this guide to fix my broken front panel assembly (got a little mad and my phone paid the price unfortunately). Fortunately though I was able to purchase this kit, and while nerve-wracking, it all worked out great.

irosstheboss15 - Reply

I have a replacement lcd panel for my iphone 6plus. my screen is black and unresponsive. how do i make sure my phone is powered down before beginning repair? how do i power it down if the screen is black and unresponsive?

Kelly Pinette - Reply

First make sure it is on, you should be able to toggle the silent/ring switch, and it should vibrate if the phone is on, if not, it's probably off (unless you've disables vibration settings). If the phone is on, you might opt to leave it for a day or so to run the battery down to be safe. Otherwise you'll want to be very careful opening the phone and disconnect the battery, carefully, as soon as you can.

Sam Lionheart -

If I buy the screen assembly with digitizer, can I use the old, working home button with the new screen? How would I go about removing the home button assembly for both screens? (old and new). Would it just be the same as step 26 and attaching the touch ID one instead?

Hasitha Fernando - Reply

Follow steps 20-26 to remove your original home button from the broken screen. If your new screen comes with a home button, remove it as well. Put your original home button on the new screen and then install the screen.

Jeff Suovanen -

The screen I replaced was completely smashed, the islack and suction couldn't hold it so I taped up the screen and used the islack again.

So easy to replace, but just be careful with the home button, it is stuck on real good so prize it out slowly and carefully.

Peter Chan - Reply

So step 17 with the display cable. I have reconnected it and power cycled 5 times. Still the same result with the white lines. Does the connector come loose that easily? All of them are snapping into place. Any suggestions or have I ruined the screen?

volvoboy29 - Reply

It doesn't come loose that easily. My guess is, it's not getting fully reconnected to begin with. Disconnect the battery, disconnect the display, reconnect the display and then the battery, and do a hard reset. If that doesn't work, you may have a bent pin, a damaged display cable, a defective display, or some other issue.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks for the reply Jeff. I rechecked everything....even the pins. The display is actually defective. I charged it up and powered it on to see the full display. On the left side there is a crack under the screen....Like inside the digitizer itself. It bubbles out like the screen is busted and seems the white lines are like a domino effect from that. Must have happened at the warehouse. The shipping box had no damage and neither did the screen itself. Was the first defective product I've gotten from Ifixit....So it was a surprise. Hopefully they will swap them out so I can finish this iPhone. Thanks again for the reply.

volvoboy29 -

Great guide! If you're attempting to replace a broken screen and save a few bucks, then you probably bought the LCD + Digitizer, without the button, earpiece, and camera. I would direct you to the Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Replacement guide, with one quick note about the home button: In order to have a functioning home button with touch ID it will need to be connected to the device. I almost missed removing the LCD back-plate from my old display. On the back plate is the cable to connect your Home button to the device. It's important so I would recommend removing the back plate immediately after step 26. It can be removed by unscrewing 3 of the 00 Phillips head screws from each side of the bracket. You should end up with 3 from each side and 1 more from the top right of the screw button, making 7 in total. Re-installation of the back plate can be a bit awkward as you have to either turn the display on its side or replace the screws from a horizontal angle. I hope that helps anyone who had trouble like me

Dalton Chaney - Reply

This is all true, and we have a complete guide specifically for this scenario. It is linked in the introduction above. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

I purchased the front panel assembly to repair a cracked screen. After completing the repair, the iPhone would not turn on - it went into a reboot loop, intermittently showing a flashing red screen. I did a hard restart, (unsuccessfully) attempted a DFU restore, all with the same results. Eventually, I checked all the connections on the front assembly to the phone one by one to be sure they are connected well. Still the same problem. I saw someone else posted a comment with the same problem and found the problem to be with the home button connection. So I unplugged the home button first from the front assembly with no improvement, then I unplugged the home button from the phone side with no results. I put the original screen assembly back on the phone and it works great. Does anyone have any ideas or solutions I would greatly appreciate it?

David - Reply

I found that the the front camera ribbon cable assembly which was pre-assembled with the screen was faulty causing the red screen of death bootloop and the phone worked after I unplugged it. So I took the original off of my original screen assembly and put it on the new one. Now it works great. It is disappointing that after paying for the complete assembly I still had to change and move things around. I hope nothing else goes out on this screen in a few days.

David -

I replaced the display on an iPhone 6. Transferred the home button and front camera components to the new display. Put it all back together. Worked perfect for about 20 minutes then all of a sudden the display disappeared only the backlighting is working with no image. I opened the phone back up to check the connections. All were fine. Decided to plug in the old display and boom backlighting with an image. I'm guessing the new display is no good or has anyone had a similar problem and was able to rectify it??

adahm87 - Reply

Left out the last half of disassembly

Aerial L - Reply

Sounds like you needed the Front Panel guide, not the Assembly guide. This guide is a simpler version for a more complete part. The intro warns "If your replacement part does not have a speaker or front-facing camera sensor cable you should follow the complete transfer guide." Check that guide out instead!

Sam Lionheart -

Das ist alles schön und gut ! Ihr solltet aber erwähnen das alle Teile so klein und filigran sind das man das mit bloßen Auge kaum sieht !! Ich bin nicht gerade ungeschickt und habe es nicht wieder zusammen bekommen!!

mariodiluciano - Reply

Worked great! Just be systematic in the way you store your parts (screws, mainly) during dissassembly. I used the plastic grid on the back of the iFixit bit case.

Ryan Lenz - Reply

This really helped me understand in detail how to replace my ihpone scree:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc7tWrkY...

Matt M - Reply

Can anyone help me here? I've followed all the steps to replace the front panel assembly and my phone still won't turn on. the front panel assembly works on my other (Newer) I Phone 6. Battery and Lightning connector work fine. the screen will not turn on an the phone just beeps. it connects to iTunes but askes to enter my password.

kreigmartinez - Reply

If you want to avoid a potential "error 53" in the future when updating your iPhone, you will need to get the screen metal shield from the cracked screen and replace it on the new screen. The screen metal shield has the cable that connect the home button to the motherboard.

If you just replace the cracked screen with a new assembly one ( which has its own metal shield and home button cable glued to it ) the iPhone motherboard could potentially not recognize your home button sensor and go into "brick mode" .

There is a video from the guys at ifixit.com explaining this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEWAQiu...

I cracked the screen of my iPhone 6 and will replace it myself following my suggestions

Patrick Putignano - Reply

Error 53 was resolved with iOS 9.3, so there's not really much danger of bricking your phone anymore.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced the cracked screen and ported over the metal shield from the cracked screen in order to avoid any potential issues with the home button.

The hardest part was to unstick the lower connector of the home button flat cable: that glue was quite strong and the possibility of damaging the flat cable was quite realistic!

Thanks to the guide all went well!

Patrick Putignano - Reply

Ho ricomposto l'iphone dopo la riparazione, tutto ok, dopo 10 minuti si è spento il display e ora non rimane nero, ho ricollegato il vetro vecchio e anche quello non funziona, come posso risolvere per favore?

andrea spirito - Reply

I replaced the iPhone 6 screen. Turned it on. It came off, then before fully booting, went off, then went on, then went off ,,,,

What could be causing this? Can I fix it?

korr - Reply

Ihr seid unschlagbar - SUPER

Herwig Pohl - Reply

der TocuID funktioniert nach dem EInbau nicht mehr, egal wie vorsichtig man ist. Oder gibt es einen Trick?

TracksettaZ -

Eine super Anleitung! Der wechsel des Display hat mit der Anleitung super funktioniert! Der Homebutton konnte sogar mit viel ruhe ohne erwärmung gelöst werden. Ebenfalls konnte das Jabel am Homebutton ohne Erwärmung gelöst werden!

Florian Hüppeler - Reply

Every step was perfect, thank you very much for this manual. Saved my phone.

diegotrujillor - Reply

I replaced the front panel and have no issue with display however Touch ID is not functional at all. Ive checked connection. Its got the plate screeer

Down on top of the connector. Am I missing something?

nickpalumboculver - Reply

I am having the same issue, did you figure it out?

P Cho -

Even with having to pull the camera and home button replacing the screen really isn't too hard of a repair. Just follow the instructions and mark your parts (including screws) as you remove them.

Nate - Reply

Great informational guide. Highlighting the concerns in red helps you to identify the possible failure/focus points. Replacing the digitizer and the Touch ID button were made easy because of it. Thank you for the detailed illustrations. The excitement I feel completing this project is so satisfying!

Carlton Walker - Reply

I just replaced my front panel assembly for my cracked screen. Even though it took me forever ( I am slow!) everything went well. The only trouble I had was when I was screwing in the last screw! I tried and tried and finally reopened the face and took a look. One of the screw holes in the tab of the new screen replacement cover had not been drilled through! I worked on it a little, bent it and then it broke off. I now only have one screw in place of the original 2. The cover of course snaps into place nicely and it is holding with one screw. What would you do?

KELLY OCONNOR DEMKO - Reply

hello to all guys, after replacing the front panel, my friend to whom i replaced the panel says they have occasionally the freezers of the touch screen when unlocking the phone or answering the calls .. quite random! we have to replace the spare part but the problem seems to remain .. do you have an idea of ​​how to proceed?

thanks to all

andrea

AndreaBaglione - Reply

A Apple Engineer told me once, that you can avoid losing Touch ID functionality or Error 53, if you consequently disable Touch ID beforehand.

Anyone can support this statement?

Andy Moser - Reply

I replaced a cracked screen on an iPhone 6. Changed the home button from the old screen to the new. Double checked all my connections with a dual lens magnifier for proper connection. Reassembled everything……… BUT now when I turn it back on to reboot all I get on the screen is the apple icon with a white background………. HELP???? It will flash on and off every few seconds with the same apple icon in the middle of the screen with a white background and won’t fully reboot. What am I missing? is the new screen kit bad? Should I swap the back metal shield with touch ID cable? I’ve fixed more i5’s then I can count but this is my first i6 fix…….………..

schumade - Reply

Update, I put the old screen back on and it works fine. Is the new screen I bought from ifixit bad?

schumade - Reply

EASY! Just don’t drop a screw, or two in my case! Good thing my 5 y/o daughter has god eyes because it was dropped in heavy pile carpet. Works great.

omnicarelabs - Reply

what is the panel that you have to take off the old screen and to put on a new screen?

Bobby Sands - Reply

Great guide, thanks a lot. A comment about why it is useful to disconnect the battery might be helpful in Step 10-12.

Daniel Koester - Reply

Easy to do.combonation of the steps and video. I didn’t disconnect screen but supported it like the picture. Hardest part was removing adhesive and then putting new adhesive back on. The Ifixit tool kit was essential. Back to full power in 20 minutes.

John Gans - Reply

It won’t let me buy $@$* ,’:(

Steven Herculano - Reply

one of he screw in the home button refuse to come out.. :( I use the 000 screwdriver that I bought in the ifixit kit, and only one of them is not coming out. i’m stuck.

Kerenvaisman1 - Reply

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