Introduction

Use this guide to replace the front panel.

The front panel does not include the home button, front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, or the LCD shield plate—you'll need to transfer all of these components into your replacement part.

You can also use this guide to replace the front panel assembly cable bracket.

If you'd rather replace the entire display assembly as one component, we have that guide and replacement part available here.

Video Overview

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

V. Jones - Reply

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

cool i diden't now

Ben Lewis Murray Dyne - Reply

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

bromanmoon - Reply

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly. While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - Reply

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston -

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
  • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

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Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - Reply

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - Reply

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

Maria Raesch - Reply

Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

Maria Raesch - Reply

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Jona Wolff - Reply

Remove the following  Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

  • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them.

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

Siegbert Waldner - Reply

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

Alister Malcolm - Reply

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - Reply

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

Fredrick Apel - Reply

I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

K Jansen - Reply

When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

Chandler Perez - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

  • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector. The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display. When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - Reply

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince -

Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

terrymccallum -

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - Reply

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston -

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - Reply

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly. Start under the contact points on the right and work to the left.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly.

  • Start under the contact points on the right and work to the left.

    • Starting from the left and going right may rip your ribbon cable. The contacts are well adhered to the front panel and should be peeled up first.

    • If you have trouble sliding the plastic opening tool under the contact points, flip the tool over and gently push against the right side of the contact cable to loosen the adhesive, then try again.

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Remove the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.
  • Remove the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.

  • If you're installing a new home button ribbon cable, be sure to keep the metal bracket and transfer it to your new ribbon cable during reassembly.

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Gently push the top right corner of the home button up away from the front panel. Do not push the home button all the way through; you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it out with a spudger.
  • Gently push the top right corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

  • Do not push the home button all the way through; you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it out with a spudger.

  • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you are going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.

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Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.
  • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

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Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.
  • Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.

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Remove two Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component bracket to the display assembly.
  • Remove two Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component bracket to the display assembly.

    • One 4.2 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

When putting the 4.2mm screw back in don't screw until it gets to tight to screw any more otherwise you will strip the screw and put a hole in the screen probably cracking it screw it in just enough so that the microphone is held in

KAksjsjdjsjsjsjamammwm - Reply

Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the earpiece speaker bracket off the display assembly. Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the earpiece speaker bracket off the display assembly.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the earpiece speaker bracket off the display assembly.

Be gentle with the speaker bracket, there are 2 small parts at the top of it which bend rather easily.

Eddie - Reply

It's hooked at the top so slide the bracket straight to the right before lifting up.

Mark Brown - Reply

Remove the earpiece speaker from the iPhone.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker from the iPhone.

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  • The front-facing camera and sensor cable is adhered to the display assembly with mild adhesive.

  • Using an iOpener to soften the adhesive will help safely remove it. Follow our iOpener instructions to use it.

    • While this step is not required, it will decrease the chances of damaging the delicate cable assembly.

A few seconds with a heat gun on low or a blow dryer works well. Just be careful not to blow tiny parts off your workbench when warming up the adhesive.

markm - Reply

Using the pointed end of a spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below. There is a small, square, plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.
  • Using the pointed end of a spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below.

  • There is a small, square, plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

  • If replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

How do I fix proximity sensor problems? The screen I am replacing already has everything on it full assembly but the sensor doesn't work?

Chandler Perez - Reply

Double-check the connectors and make sure they are securely connected, and try again. If you think the new proximity sensor is faulty, you can try returning the display to where ever you bought it. If that's not an option, you could use this guide to remove the entire cable assembly (including the proximity sensor) from the old display and swap it over to the new one—assuming that the old cable assembly is still in good shape.

Jeff Suovanen -

I do not know what the proximity sensor actually looks like. I would find it helpful if there was a picture (or indication on the picture) of its location.

Bill Xn - Reply

Slide the point of a spudger under the microphone to lift it out of its recess in the display assembly. Slide the point of a spudger under the microphone to lift it out of its recess in the display assembly.
  • Slide the point of a spudger under the microphone to lift it out of its recess in the display assembly.

you do not need to remove the big square part of this cable from the shield for this repair

bobdownes - Reply

I feel that this guide is missing a step to show you what it looks like with the piece actually removed from the iPhone. I do not know what I'm actually to remove or not remove. @bobdownes says that I don't need to remove the big square, but, in the overview photo it shows that the square sticker is removed.

Shouldn't the overview picture be used in the guide? And a step to show how the cable is properly remounted? thx.

SkipR - Reply

Hey Skip—it sounds like you may have been looking at a prerequisite rather than the complete guide. Click here and see if that answers your question. You can also check out the product page for a photo of the part all by itself. The big square sticker must be removed if you're replacing the camera/sensor assembly. Folks who are transplanting both the camera/sensor assembly and the attached LCD shield plate to a new display can leave the square sticker in place. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total). Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).
  • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

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Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the LCD shield plate. One at bottom of the display assembly near the home button opening
  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the LCD shield plate.

    • One at bottom of the display assembly near the home button opening

    • One at the top of the display near the cables

Note that the 1.6mm screw near the home button has a larger diameter head compared to the 1.6mm screw near the top of the display.

markm - Reply

Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

Note: Transfer clear plastic camera locator ring to the new screen assembly

Matt Gally - Reply

Thanks, Matt, would have missed it otherwise.

Ahmad -

What is the best way to do this?

Jason Hammond -

The guide could definitely use more details about the proximity housing as well as the camera ring. I used a magnifying glass to pick at the corners and they each popped off. To keep them in place I used a very small piece of double sided tape. I figure they would stay in place once it's all reassembled.

As for completely pulling the camera off the LCD shield like in the picture, if you're going to transfer the shield to a new LCD screen I don't think it is necessary to remove.

Erik Karlin -

A fairly good account of how to carry out this procedure HOWEVER you seem to have forgotten one VERY IMPORTANT step!

You mention it is important to work in a static safe environement which is good but you have not mentioned the importance of disconnecting the battery so that work is not carried out with the device being live!

Not carrying out this seemingly minor task (two screws to remove a panel and disconnect the battery connector) could easily brick the phone or, worse, cause a fire or even an explosion that may result in serious injury as well as a costly visit to the phone shop.

So, I should ask that you please edit your video to incorporate this procedure.

I should add that I am a retired, extremely well qualified and experienced electro-optical design engineer with over 50 years of experience in engineering and college teaching.

AND, my daughter followed your instructions to the letter on my Static-safe workstation and destroyed her replacement screen.

Sincerely,

john_bartonwood@ntlworld.com

John Barton Wood - Reply

I'm not sure if you followed the step by step picture guide or not but thats what i use so i don't have to stop n start the video all the time. The point i'm getting at is that the step that you believe is missing is done straight after the screen is opened on the phone. Next step take the screws out of the battery connector bracket, remove the bracket, and disconnect the battery.

Hope this helps John.

Cheers Wayne

Wayne Lyell -

Note the picture with step 31 shows the shield plate with the cable assembly having been removed just like the linked YouTube shows. Yet these step-by-step instructions don't show that removal. You DO NOT want to remove the cable from the shield as you are going to be using the shield and cables when you transfer it to the new screen.

James - Reply

marry me .....

bromanmoon - Reply

Display Assembly remains.
  • Display Assembly remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

611 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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38 Comments

I found that I also needed some very fine pointed tweezers for handling those tiny screws.

slrbriggler - Reply

Yes,but be careful,if you squeeze too hard that tiny screw will launch itself god knows where and you may not find it.

John P -

Help! I followed this guide to replace a screen. When the lcd/digitizer cables are folded to close the phone again, the screen stops working. When I unfold it, it works again. How can I fix this?

philbar - Reply

I've repaired two 5C's and the screen pops off both of them. Never had this happen with any other model. Anyone know what's going on here and if there's a fix?

brandon - Reply

Possibly a twisted frame?

LukeR -

Success! Definitely recommend another person to help holding the screen up. Also, tweezers are very handy to have as well.

Anthony DeFallo - Reply

Surprised not to be advised to disconnect the battery, that's normally a given with these guides.

Tim Hughes - Reply

Step 11 Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

Max -

Top. Thank you.

emersonfn - Reply

I've replaced my cracked screen with the one I ordered but now am unable to slide to unlock or anything. I've checked what I did twice and followed the instructions step by step but still nothing. What did I do wrong? How can I fix it?

Winnie - Reply

Instructions easy to follow but on putting back together the home button and top button work fine but the screen isn't responding to touch. Any ideas?

LisaRockliffe - Reply

Instructions followed okay I think, all clicked in etc but whilst the home button and top button work I get no response from the touch screen. Any ideas?

LisaRockliffe - Reply

Use tape, doubled up on itself and put into the box, to keep track of the small screws.The green screwdriver seems to be the one to use.

georgeaheinrichs - Reply

The guide is very clear and I was able to complete the fix in less than 15 minutes, including reading the instruction guide first. I replaced the iPhone 5c Display Assembly with Home Button and Front Camera using the ProTech Toolkit. Thank you iFixit for making it so easy and affordable!

carl - Reply

I just performed the replacement of the digitizer and LCD display with a swap of the camera and home button. This went well following the directions. About 30 minutes of my time including a short break in the middle to rest my eyes and take a few deep breathes. :)

BTW, I did not disconnect the battery but made the sure the device was off. "Power button and slide to off across the top of the display" I then put the hold switch on so nothing was accidentally powered back on.

Those of you having digitizer issues after completing the replacement are more than likely not getting the digitizer connector properly seated. It's very important you feel them snap into place. If you don't get that little click, it's probably not connected correctly. It's also possible you pinched a cable when closing it back up. This has happened to me before and it never did completely recover until I bought another replacement and installed it correctly.

mmiller - Reply

Hi

I Follow all the steps but now my phone isn´t work.

Dont turn on any more.

Please help!!

xploit Guatemala - Reply

Awesome Instructions. Worked perfectly on all the instructions I used for replacing both the screen and battery. One suggestion for DIYers , Use something to hold the screen tilted properly while you take out and put in the screws. I just adjusted my Isclack so that it held the screen close enough to maintain the ribbon connection, but out of the way enough to be able to install the screws. Thanks for putting up this site. I'll be getting all my iPhone fixit stuff from you guys..

stringman58 - Reply

i have just finished this repair (first one) but when i close it up it just comes up with little squares and the lock screen doesnt move

florofailure - Reply

I bought the iPhone 5C front panel connector cover for $6.95. It was exactly what I needed as I bought my phone used and the previous owner lost this part. My only suggestion for iFixit would be to include the 4 screws you need for the cover. I had to buy a separate screw set, adding on cost. Then, it took me forever to figure out which screws I needed from the set. Telling a 1.6 mm screw from a 1.7 mm screw is nearly impossible. I would've paid an extra couple bucks just to have the necessary screws included with the cable cover.

Thanks iFixit.

Tech Savvy - Reply

awesome guide. Now all I have to work on is my FAT FINGERS (man those screws are small).

Keep up the great work - you help us to look like heroes!!

tnicassio - Reply

I have found this site to be very helpful! I was able to change the battery in my iphone 5c. I was so shocked that it actually turned on, that i rushed to enter the screws for the screen and i found that the image was distorted. I was wondering why and thought may i damaged something. So i took the

phone back apart, and found that one of the 3 connectors for the screen, wasnt properly plugged in to its slot. Hold and be hold, once i put the phone back together, everything is responsive (touch, home screen etc) and the image become crystal clear as it first was when i got the phone back in december 2014.

Very helpful video. i followed it thourouly and found it worked for me!

(I had purchased a new battery and the kit with the screw drivers etc.)

Yay!

christina masci - Reply

awsome step by step that really helped me with replacing the battery in my Iphone 5c. I had to re open the phone once i reassembled it, as i didnt

plug in one of the screen connectors correctly. ( there are 3 before you put the metal plate over the screen connector.)

very happy

christina masci - Reply

Excellent guide, as usual. The only difficulty I had was that my replacement LCD/Glass was missing the fronmt camera bezel, and the proximity sensor bezel. I had to remove these from the old screen and glue them to the new one. I used a contact adhesive for this.

evenmoregarlic - Reply

A while ago i dropped my phone and shattered the screen, the LCD was destroyed and the screen was unresponsive. I had known about i fixit, iIordered a screen and it came in fast. One huge tip Is keep all screws seperate, I ended up using a 10 glasses and put sticky notes on them labeling the size and step the screw is.

Max - Reply

There is one step missing from this diagram. There is one screw at the very top right of the metal plate that is screwed in vertically from the top that has to be removed along with both side screws.

christopherdparmele - Reply

Its there, just in one of the pictures you have to click on...

Steve Miller -

How much is the whole repair for the screen?

Johnjet - Reply

thanks so much - 1st time completed, and successfully..!! For a non Diy 55 yr old bloke who never thought it would work when the last screws went in, I thank you..!!

john hinge - Reply

Finished the job in about 20 mins. The instructions and pictures were superb. One of the things I always do when working with a bunch of small screws is to use a magnetic tray to hold the screws tight into place after disassembly. As I disassemble I put the screws in the same exact position I took them out in and go right to left in the magnet tray so that assembly is left to right. That way I don't have to fret about dropping tiny screws on the floor and the different sizes of the screws as my assembly is positional. Use multiple trays if the job won't fit into one. You can buy them dirt cheap at Harbor Freight in both round bowl and square bowl formats.

Fredrick Apel - Reply

Really helped to put a magnet on the screwdriver to manage those tiny screws.

Nora Baschy - Reply

Thanks so much for the instructions and pictures - perfect :)

Nora Baschy - Reply

Thank you for putting this guide together, very helpful

Jeff Moore - Reply

I received my new screen from ifixit.com this week. After following these directions and successfully replacing my screen, the screen now displays great. But the touch screen barely works. I'm not able to enter my passcode. Why doesn't the touch control on the new screen work correctly?

Darryl Hahn - Reply

It sounds like the digitizer connector may not be fully seated. I'd suggest opening your phone back up, disconnecting the battery, and checking all the connectors in step 14-15. Then reconnect the battery and perform a hard reset. If you still have the same issue, get in touch with us via our help page.

Jeff Suovanen -

My new screen came with the home button attached so it took me a minute to realize i had to skip this step. Turned out great. I'm very grateful to the contributors of this instructional.

Jennifer - Reply

I left the camera ribbon stuck to the backplate and transfered the lot to the new screen. No need to warm anything up like this

cooper997 - Reply

Thank you ifixit! First attempt worked well. All back together and working. Very clear instructions and images. Took my time, no rush. I used the pointy end of a cable tie (flat) in lieu of the pointy end of a spudger in step 27 to lift the earphone speaker. Very helpful outline and instructions.

Bill Xn - Reply

i want to fix my iphone

Edderly Laguerre - Reply

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