Introduction

Use this guide to replace the home button ribbon cable. The cable includes the switch, but not the button cover.

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost. My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

matt - Reply

The majority of product manufacturers are not required to provide parts, and apple will fix items under the various warranties it offers. Car manufacturers on the other hand are required to make parts available by law. It is part of the regulation of their industry. They get a lot of protection for their business model, but have some obligations too. It's why the EV1 was pulled, they didn't want to have to make the parts, and why there are so many Delorian parts.

William Leeper -

This is a great guide. However, I'm having a hard time popping the screen back into place. Everything works but I'm afraid of putting too much pressure least I crack it again. Any advice?

amciotola - Reply

To avoid broken screens during reassembling:

Put the hooks of the screen in the right place in the housing, then close it loose, don't press it. Turn your phone upside down with the screen on a very flat surface (e.g. table). Now press the housing on the screen -> no more risk for braking the screen because of inhomogeneous force applied on the glass!

mondbewohner -

I hope folks read this comment before proceeding to attempt a Sleep/Wake button repair on the iPhone 5! Apple has an iPhone 5 Sleep/Wake button replacement program, free, for iPhone 5 devices manufactured through March 2013. See program details at https://www.apple.com/support/iphone5-sl.... Don't do this yourself if you don't need to. It's a difficult repair.

Mark Luscher - Reply

I was willing to add the following important remark on top of this guide but, strangely, it has been refused! Here it is:

---

*Check if your Iphone 5 is eligible to the Apple special program for a free battery replacement (devices sold between September 2012 and January 2013, within a limited serial number range).

* If not, watch the video and use this guide [video|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ogE8USs...]

---

And thus, as my Iphone 5 was eligible, I went to the Apple store of Le Louvre in Paris and the battery has been changed for free instead of 65 euros. Thanks to Mark!

revher -

Hi every one i drop my iphone5s 16gb

I replace 10!new screen but cant back to live i see on the "logic board" where u conect the screen i se damage HOW CANT FIX THAT WHITOUT LOST MA DATA ??? Thaks for anny hellp!!!!!

aliroberto01 - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher - Reply

To avoid misplacing screws or other elements, printout the instructions, apply transparent tape onto the print wherever you have colored circles marking different screws. Then, as you start removing screws, tape each one on top of its image on the instructions. At the end, to reinstall everything, proceed from the end of the instructions, removing each taped screw from its image, to return it to its original position. I have done this with many iFixit repair instructions, never losing or misplacing any screw!

bduault -

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood - Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver - Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle -

I've managed to replace the battery successfully in my iPhone5, but something went wrong with a friend's (battery status is stuck, sometimes the phone reboots for no reason).

So, i decided to open it up again and reseat the ribbon cables in case they came loose.

I can't open it now. The Pentalobe screwdriver is worn out! I can't open these screws no matter what. I don't know what to do now as I can't be sure I haven't worn out the actual screws themselves, too. Any ideas?

Saltank - Reply

I seem to be having a similar situation. Attempting to open the phone again and either the pentalobe screws or the screwdriver itself is stripped. Any suggestion is welcome for removing the screws.

Battery replacement went well and works great. But I must have a loose (hopefully not damaged) display ribbon.

pwarkolla -

Saltank, thanks to your comment I didn't overtighten those little screws! I would try to get a better quality driver from a local hardware store to see that helps, the one ifixit sent are not very good quality. If that doesn't work, you may have stripped the screws.

SMSHAHKHAN -

Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Daniel Hatton - Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Steve Freed - Reply

Hi Steve! I'm experiencing the same issue. Were you able to fix it? Please let me know

Brittany Hutchinson -

Steve. Please contact me asap re: the issue on your phone. Thank you.

Brittany Hutchinson -

Now here's an issue that would seem to apply to many users doing this repair: if the screen is nonfunctional, how do you power-off the device? When I dropped my iPhone, the screen went almost completely dark, midnight blue, actually. I can use the power button at the top of the phone to turn the display on and off, but I can't get the phone to power off. Seems the only way to do it is to wait until the battery is exhausted.

dwhyink - Reply

Image 1/3: Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display. Image 2/3: If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case. Image 3/3: If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.
  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws. Image 2/3: Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge. Image 3/3: The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

The iSclack is a marvel. I've had it in my toolkit for a while but this was its first use. I recommend this tool.

jlwilliams03 - Reply

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

Guido Dampf - Reply

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

I had to position the suction cup _over_ the home button in order to get the screen far enough away from the frame to slide my trim tool in there. Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all...

tparkinson - Reply

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Reply

without this suction cup clamp thing, removing (and replacing) the screen was the hardest part of this job. Especially when the screen is cracked badly as the suction cup loses suction due to air leaking through the cracks. In this case, use tape over the screen to create a smooth surface. ***Also, the screens have rubber running along the side, so use a heat gun or hair dryer to make the rubber softer for removal of cracked screen and installation of replacement screen

fakik0240 - Reply

Image 1/1: Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc - Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny - Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz - Reply

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

I'd recommend to use packaging tape to attach the upper edge of the display to the back of the phone so you won't rip off the ribbon cables if the display suddenly comes loose.

Cupper Chopper - Reply

I took the suction cup off of an old navigation Tom Tom and it worked great!

fijisomeday - Reply

My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic.

Wade Whitaker - Reply

I initially had trouble, but focusing on the area of the faceplate right above the headphone jack worked for me. There's a slight divot that allows you to slip in the prying tool earlier than in other places around the faceplate. Once I got the prying tool in there, I was able to pop out the bottom, and then continue up the sides.

Stuart Nelson - Reply

Image 1/1: While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm - Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng - Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo - Reply

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass - Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S - Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien - Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Mitch - Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis - Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin -

This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. Thanks!

dave -

Thank you so much! This should DEFINITELY be added to the main guide.

After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

Thanks so much!

diegoholt -

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins - Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew - Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst - Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool - Reply

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

Kenichi Haramoto - Reply

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

Leonid - Reply

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

Nolan - Reply

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

edis - Reply

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Ardi Purwalaksana - Reply

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

Julie To - Reply

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

earthhasassri - Reply

Use needle its a best way

imran - Reply

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

dpetronis - Reply

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

prattdesign1 - Reply

BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!!

-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

peterthemick - Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Reply

1. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords. Mine did not rip, thankfully.

2. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

3. When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around. I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back.

kkwang18 - Reply

We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device.

Matt Gordon - Reply

My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly. Not good.

robin - Reply

I was in no mood to pay for the special tool and wait for it. Took the "right of headphone jack" suggestion and pushed down vertically at the edge of the frame with a "ice pick" sharp tool, " I had two of them. Who cares if you scratch the frame a little, I usually have my phone in a protective case anyhow. I kept working with this until the corner was up, and then the rest of the display was loose without any further work.

primaljoy - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

yakbu - Reply

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

luc - Reply

Image 1/3: Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case. Image 2/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff - Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11 -

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

zhunterzz - Reply

I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force (at a 45 degree angle as suggested) on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly.

Jen Robinson - Reply

That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing.

Ed Chapman -

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

drummerMarkku - Reply

BE VERY CAREFUL!! While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables. Screen didn't turn on, and it cost 100$ to repair. BE VERY CAREFUL.

Marc - Reply

Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! Thank you!.

When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen (you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight) if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame, at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

I hope it helps!

Cesar Valenzuela - Reply

Was it just me or did anyone else discover a ribbon cable (or something like it) on the bottom end of the phone (under the home button)? It kept me from opening the front panel more than 30 degrees or so, making the replacement impossible. Thoughts?

Curt Jones - Reply

It looks like you might actually have an iPhone 5s, that is probably the Touch ID cable, check out the iPhone 5s Display Assembly replacement here!

Sam Lionheart -

Thank you, Sam!

Curt Jones -

What the heck only the top part of the lcd came off, NOT together with the shield plate. I used the stupid islack opener but only the very top layer came up. I don't see the battery or anything underneath because the shield plate is still in there. I can't even put it back closed and resuction it open because the shield plate is solidly stuck in and there is a cable at the top not settling properly. I have an open lcd top part of this phone. IDK man, PLEASE ADVISE.

http://imgur.com/a/Qd8gp

Gabrielle Rivera - Reply

Hi Gabrielle, sorry you're having trouble! This frame step was meant to show you how to avoid that issue, however, you should be able to use it to pry up the frame and shield plate. You'll need to carefully pry the frame itself up. Insert a thin prying tool between the black or white plastic display frame, and the metal phone case, to lift the frame assembly out of the phone body. If you continue to have trouble, try posting a question in our forum for faster feedback!

Sam Lionheart -

Hello, I've changed the earphone piece on my iPhone5 following this guide but I've skipped from step 9 directly to step 17 without problem, just shutting down first. Once opened I've tied the iPhone's body vertically to a small box with an elastic ring, the display assembly resting horizontal at some 90 degrees allows enough place to unscrew and replace the earpiece.

Cesar Martin - Reply

Image 1/1: One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

When reassembling, note the black jumper cable that runs next to the battery ribbon cable. Sometimes this jumper comes off its little groove and can make seating the battery ribbon cable tricky. The black jumper should travel up that little ramp and then curve to the right.

DOMINIC INFERRERA - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

When I did this strep the battery connector (step 12) came with it. There seemed to be a bit of adhesive but it wasn't hard to separate them after the fact.

davidmeyers - Reply

Image 1/1: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and '''not''' the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

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Image 1/1: Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

      • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz - Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai -

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic

Matt -

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel - Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david -

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia - Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy - Reply

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Frank - Reply

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

pkrosa - Reply

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

stevesontheroad - Reply

Be warned, the 1.6mm screw is exceptionally easy to strip. I haven't been able to get it out yet (already tried rubber band trick and a few others) and am on the verge of giving up. The #00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching.

joseparra947 - Reply

Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that.

randypalmerjr -

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO - Reply

The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded:

Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place.

Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.

alsmith1928 - Reply

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

stefanoclearmounth - Reply

When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying. I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. It was. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again.

I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone.

My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly.

grosstua - Reply

The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work..

Liam Carson -

Step 9-12 are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open. The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back.

rich1812 - Reply

I completely agree. These are unnecessary steps. Might be a little easier to pry the battery out with the display completely off, but not enough to make it worthwhile IMHO.

davidmeyers -

Is the 1.2mm a #000 or #0000? I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1.2mm, the tools list shows #000, but my set says #000 = 1.5mm.

Kevin - Reply

1.2 mm refers to the length of the screw (from head to end), the screw head size is compatible with a Phillips #000 driver. So as long as you have a #000 you should be set! Good luck =)

Sam Lionheart -

Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens... I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. to match the colors of the circles in this guide. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size.

Pete H - Reply

What an idea, lol.

bigfnevil -

frustrated...screws to battery holder is stripped, now what?

Martin Gonzalez - Reply

Maybe a small amount of loctite. I noticed the P2 screws holding the display down had a small amount on my iPhone 5.

Steve Heigh -

Como se ha comentado más arriba, no es necesario desmontar la pantalla, yo he sustituido la batería aplicando calor con el iOpener y siguiendo atentamente la guía. Resultado óptimo.

Cesar Martin - Reply

Image 1/2: During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone. Image 2/2: During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.
  • Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell - Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin - Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk - Reply

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don - Reply

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

julian - Reply

Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen. After putting everything back together, you see a small yellow smear just to the left of the battery % indicator, you have not put that plate on correctly. Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly!

AGS - Reply

Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils.

There is also a new brighter spot on the screen. Any ideas anyone?

Ian Campbell -

Image 1/3: Front-facing camera and sensor cable Image 2/3: LCD cable Image 3/3: Digitizer cable
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • LCD cable

    • Digitizer cable

      • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson - Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido - Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia - Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst - Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter - Reply

BE CAREFUL HERE.

Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

info - Reply

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

eric51redding - Reply

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

Aaron Martina - Reply

I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly (including FaceTime camera and Home button) iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro.

Nathan Jones - Reply

This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors.

nicholaskan - Reply

if my lcd metal plate is scratched can i replace it to remove the lines or do i need a new lcd

brittany stapleton - Reply

When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently. It turns out there were two separate problems. (1) We had over-handled the cables and a quick swab of alcohol helped remove the oil from the connections. (2) The first connection is really tricky to get right and comes undone easily during the final reassembly.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

I had this problem too (not the oil though). When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. The only way to shut down the phone was to hold the home key & power key for 8 seconds until the display went black. Reseating the LCD & Digitiser connectors, and power cycling by reconnecting the battery fixed the problem. Hope this info helps others.

Tom Hannen -

In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out. To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise. This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon.

pauldevans - Reply

Great pics too. Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction (and colored bullets). I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. Thanks!

gandarlmg - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

My display was not turning on and my home button was not working (I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work). When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them. Thanks! By the way, SUPER grateful the rest of the display works. I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. Woohoo!

jhagerman - Reply

I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know.

Ana Van Meter - Reply

My front camera does not work. I took apart and ensured the connection several, several , several times.... no front camera... anyone else have this issue?

Patricia Young - Reply

Try replacing the camera and flex assembly.

Greg M -

Image 1/1: NOTE: When reinstalling the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws, take care not to over tighten them as they can penetrate the other side of the display.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.

  • NOTE: When reinstalling the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws, take care not to over tighten them as they can penetrate the other side of the display.

Home Button Ribbon Cable is very difficult to remove and easily to tear off.

Be careful when you try to remove it

Mash Love - Reply

It might just be bad luck, but the left screw on the home button backing would not budge and I ended up stripping it. I just had to order a new home button & bracket, fortunately. I also experienced the inverse, where the screw wells of the new screen on another phone did not hold the screws down. I wouldn't encourage you to try this at home, but a little super glue can go a long way!

Derek Carper - Reply

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high % as you can get) to act as a lubricant for that stuck screw holding the left side of the home button. Like above poster said, I had the same problem with that screw. The alcohol works wonders! (I work in a clean room where lubricant is not allowed, so Isopropyl Alcohol is commonly used for this purpose)

stretchymantis - Reply

I heated a small hand towel in boiling water and double sealed it in a plastic bag container, I put it over the spot for 3 minutes and it peeled right off.

dudeomfgstfux -

the screws seemed to only fit one side or the other. Then, the left screw didn't ever want to tighten all the way down.

briancoski - Reply

I had some problems here with the screws, as the phillips screwdriver from the set was too big... luckily I found a fitting one in my toolbox. The cable takes patience.

Robin BS - Reply

Home button cable is stubborn. Really nice to apply pressure in the right place as per guide. Start between the two copper parts. Working left to right will break it.

Daniel Hatton - Reply

I agree with others that this step is hardest. I did this step in the end, i.e. after completing steps 20-24. This gives a better visibility and more room. I had to insert a small flat jewelers screw driver (very carefully and gently) underneath to complete step 19. I wish the plastic tool supplies to me was narrower at one end.

remaneeraj - Reply

Used the hot washcloth in a plastic bag method. worked great.

daddy2caius - Reply

Image 1/2: Start on the right, at the area of the ribbon cable between the gold contact points, and work to the left. Image 2/2: Going left to right may rip your ribbon cable as the contacts are well adhered to the front panel.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly.

  • Start on the right, at the area of the ribbon cable between the gold contact points, and work to the left.

    • Going left to right may rip your ribbon cable as the contacts are well adhered to the front panel.

    • Prying directly at one gold contact point or the other may break its soldering and pop it off the ribbon cable.

    • If you have trouble sliding the plastic opening tool under the contact points, flip the tool over and gently push against the right side of the contacts to loosen the adhesive, then try again.

Hit it and the home button with a little heat, it eases in removing the button and ribbon that have a little bit of adhesive.

crevz - Reply

I used a hairdryer to losen up the glue under the contacts.

Spacewide - Reply

Soak it in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high of a % you can get). It will help loosen the adhesive quite nicely. :)

stretchymantis - Reply

I was having issues with the new home button ribbon cable working consistently after the repair. Calibrated the new part by going into a stock Apple app and holding the power button until the "off" prompt appeared. From there I held the home button until it exited the "off" prompt which re-calibrated the home button. After that everything was good to go! =)

ilau1337 - Reply

I found removing the Home button the most difficult step because the ribbon cable with the two contact dots is so thin that the plastic tool cannot grab it. I pushed it slightly until I see the dots moving. I kept pushing slightly and moving it back and forth until it finally came loose. All of the screws are very small, so use a tweezer to hold them uprighted to insert into their holes, and the rest is easy!

rayramirez - Reply

Watch out while removing the home button cable. It breaks really easily! In my case I ended up with a fold in the home button cable, but luckily it still worked.

You really shouldn't complete this step without using a hairdryer or something else to heat up the glue!

Christiaan - Reply

Using a heat gun definitely helps soften the adhesive for pulling off the contacts. When putting it back on, I heated it as well to that it would re-stick better. Used heat gun at 250F for a few seconds only. ALSO when putting back the home button, at first when i tightened the screws on the plate too much the button wouldn't click. I had to loosen the screws and kept testing to see what the right torque is to ensure it would click. I used loctite to make sure these not fully tight screws wouldn't come back out.

Kent Leung - Reply

This was super tight to get the two golden contact things off. Took me aprox 20 mins. Have to be patient with this one. The instructions are golden.

drummerMarkku - Reply

I poured a small amount of near boiling water into a plastic ziploc bag then put that bag into another ziploc (just to be safe) then placed it on the home button area for about 7 minutes or so, that seemed to do the trick just nicely!

loganmadson - Reply

It wasn't immediately obvious to me that the replacement package came with some double-sided adhesive with cutouts to match different parts. I needed a piece to keep the gold contacts down during reassembly.

dkulp - Reply

This part had me NEARLY stomped... the plastic thingy that was shipped with the "kit" did NOT work to remove those glued-on contacts. I had to resort to a surgical scalpel knife I had handy (luckily, everyone should have one!) and was able to carefully lift the contacts this way....

lutz - Reply

used a hairdryer and a scalpel (knive would probably work too) - went like a charm within 10 seconds it was done!!

diewarenrochade - Reply

I had to also clean the terminals on the phone body that make contact with the 2 cooper patches on the ribbon cable. This phone had gotten wet causing the home button to operate intermittently. Replacing the ribbon cable didn't fix it until cleaning those contacts by rubbing them gently with a pencil eraser.

Peeling up the ribbon cable was super easy with a standard retractable blade utility knife from my home repair tool kit.

ssbnfair - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

103 other people completed this guide.

Brett Hartt

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2 Comments

You had mentioned the phone running hot if the battery wasn't disconnected in the correct sequence, how is this resolved? Also, the phone after lcd assembly replacement is unresponsive, I have gotten a dinging sound that repeats but nothing on the screen...iTunes recognizes the phone but I get nothing on the screen, I've tried reassembling several times with no luck, this is not my phone, I've done many repairs on iphones in the past

and never had this problem...please help, it's an iphone 5s

mattadki - Reply

what kind of adhesive is used on the home button cable - the one with two metallic spherical plates that face the inside of the phone?

Ajaz Karim - Reply

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