Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the home button assembly in an iPad 5 Wi-Fi.

Note that the Touch ID sensor in the home button is paired to its respective logic board, so replacing the home button will result in loss of Touch ID functionality.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Reply

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Reply

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Reply

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Reply

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Reply

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Reply

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Reply

    • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Reply

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Reply

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Reply

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Reply

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Reply

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Reply

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Reply

    • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

    • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

      • Front-facing camera

      • Antennas

      • Display cables

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

      • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Reply

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Reply

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Reply

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Reply

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Reply

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Reply

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Reply

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Reply

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Reply

    • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

      • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Add Comment

    • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Reply

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Reply

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Reply

    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Reply

    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Reply

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Reply

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

      • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

    Add Comment

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    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

    Add Comment

    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Reply

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Lionheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Reply

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Reply

    • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

      • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

    Add Comment

    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

      • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

      • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

    Add Comment

    • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

    • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner.

      • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

    I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.

    Fin Hirschoff - Reply

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

    Add Comment

    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

    Add Comment

    • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

    • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

    Add Comment

    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.

    • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Reply

    • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the LCD.

      • Three 4.0 mm screws

      • One 4.8 mm screw

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - Reply

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

      • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

      • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • To reduce the risk of a short, you can insert a battery blocker or a modified opening pick to disconnect the battery.

      • Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - Reply

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - Reply

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - Reply

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - Reply

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - Reply

    • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

    • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - Reply

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: How to Remove a Stripped Screw

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - Reply

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - Reply

    • Remove the LCD.

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    • Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.

    • Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - Reply

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - Reply

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - Reply

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - Reply

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - Reply

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - Reply

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    • Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

    • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - Reply

    • Remove the front panel assembly.

    • During reassembly, wipe any dust or fingerprints off of the inside of the front panel assembly to ensure a clean display.

    • If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.

      • Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.

      • The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - Reply

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - Reply

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - Reply

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - Reply

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - Reply

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - Reply

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - Reply

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - Reply

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Gently begin peeling the home button cable off the back of the front panel.

    • Continue peeling until you reach the metal shield on the cable.

    Add Comment

    • Insert an opening pick between the metal shield and the front panel and gently pry it from the digitizer.

    Add Comment

    • Gently peel the metal contact from the home button bracket.

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - Reply

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the back of the front panel.

      • When reattaching the home button bracket, use a dab of adhesive or double-sided tape to secure the bracket in place.

    • Once you've separated one side of the home button bracket, firmly grasp the bracket and peel it off the front panel.

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - Reply

    • Press the home button from the external side of the digitizer to break up the adhesive holding it in place.

      • Apply pressure slowly. The adhesive is attached to a delicate gasket that will tear easily.

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - Reply

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    • Remove the home button assembly.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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5 Comments

Hi. What happens if home button cable is broken? Can i use a home button from an ipad air 1?

Evald Gross - Reply

no, its not working

PhonePhox - Reply

The iPad 5 home button bracket that you order seems to be different from the original one I took off the iPad. Has anyone else noticed this? I also can’t get the button to work correctly with the new bracket.

Technology Department - Reply

yes i just ran across this. If seems the ones that come pre equipped are different. when attached i could not get it to respond back to home.. Touch id i get but no return to home im stumped on. ivfe just purchased the replacement home button to find that it seems a bit off aswell. The rear holding bracket doesnt seem to press against the button allowing you to push it back thru from the front of the ipad. I will update further once i complete this job. BR

d57heinz2000 -

i got the same thing with the home button bracket not pushing through the home button hole enough

Andrew - Reply

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