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Introduction

La batteria non dura molto? Cambiala.

  1. Apple ha progettato i nuovi iPod per essere difficili da smontare senza distruggere i componenti più importanti. Questo è dovuto al pannello frontale metallico, alla scocca in metallo e alle 13 (sì, 13) clip metalliche che tengono il case unito. Questo è uno degli iPod più difficili da disassemblare.
    • Apple ha progettato i nuovi iPod per essere difficili da smontare senza distruggere i componenti più importanti. Questo è dovuto al pannello frontale metallico, alla scocca in metallo e alle 13 (sì, 13) clip metalliche che tengono il case unito. Questo è uno degli iPod più difficili da disassemblare.

    • Procedi con attenzione perché potresti danneggiare gravemente il tuo iPod al di là delle sue condizioni attuali. Inoltre potresti avere la necessità di qualche strumento di apertura in plastica in più durante la procedura, in quanto si possono rovinare facilmente durante l'apertura dell'iPod. Buon divertimento!

    • Prima di aprire il tuo iPod, assicurati che il tasto di sblocco sia nella posizione di blocco.

    Actually, there are only 11 metal clips. From the face side:

    On the top, only 1 clip centred 35mm from LHS. Avoid the first 30mm on the LHS, and the last 20mm on the RHS

    On the RHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top. Take great care to avoid the topmost 15mm

    On the LHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top

    On the bottom, there are 2 tabs, each one 10mm in from the edge.

    Also, I bought 2 spudger bars with the battery, and found them invaluable. The plastic ones supplied are nearly useless

    astutebs - Reply

    Okay, I’m a noob, what’s an LHS…I assume it’s “Left..H…S" and RHS is “Right…H…S”, but please elucidate.

    Miguel FC - Reply

    Left Hand Side

    Right Hand Side

    darren_chalk -

    take your time, be patient, it’s hard but you can do it. Watch other videos from youtube for battery replacement for your model to supplement this written procedure - particularly with regard to releasing the battery ribbon connector. I have the hardest one to crack open I and got it done and I’m 63 years old with bad hands…..my ipod classic now works good as new!!!!!!

    Donald Diebold - Reply

  2. Aprire questo iPod è difficoltoso. Non ti scoraggiare se ci vogliono più tentativi per questa operazione. Una cosa da notare è la punta dell'angolo degli strumenti di apertura mentre vengono inseriti nell'iPod. Idealmente l'angolo dev'essere il più verticale possibile durante l'inserimento della punta lungo il bordo del pannello posteriore.
    • Aprire questo iPod è difficoltoso. Non ti scoraggiare se ci vogliono più tentativi per questa operazione. Una cosa da notare è la punta dell'angolo degli strumenti di apertura mentre vengono inseriti nell'iPod. Idealmente l'angolo dev'essere il più verticale possibile durante l'inserimento della punta lungo il bordo del pannello posteriore.

    • Inserisci l'attrezzo di apertura all'interno della fessura tra il pannello frontale ed il retro dell'iPod.

    I think this must be a 5th gen ipod class and the gap is larger. I have a 6th gen ipod classic, the plastic open tool can't insert in!

    The battery(thick) I bought from ifixit has problem: the cable is not same length as the original one. Be carefully.

    linhaiyxs - Reply

    AWESOME!!!! Couldn't b happier,1 hour and 10 mins to switch out headphone jack (had music through one speaker) and battery since I had it open. Really only had to use plastic spudger,metal spudger and 1.5 inch puddy knife. Plastic separators didn't really help,for 3 bucks I'm not complaining. Already had a 00 screwdriver. All told,$43.00 for parts and I have my 120 gig iPod back.

    David Fizur - Reply

    Before starting to pry open the case, look closely at the pictures in steps 21 and 23 to better understand the clips to be released and the location of the clips. It will make the probing with the spudger more effective.

    Jim Athay - Reply

    Don’t waste time here…just use the metal spudger.

    Hwyman - Reply

    what jim says. that pic of the clips should be up here so you can visualise what you’re trying to do, before you trash the rails.

    duncan rmi - Reply

    I agree with Hwyman. I spent quite a bit of time trying to open the case with the plastic opening tools but could never get it into the joint. Then I went tried the iFixit Jimmy tool along with the metal spudger for the rest of the steps. It made is so much easier. I completed the entire job within an hour.

    Bruce Baumgart - Reply

  3. Inserisci un altro attrezzo di apertura in plastica dentro la fessura tra il pannello frontale ed il retro dell'iPod, lasciando almeno  4 centimetri di spazio tra i due attrezzi.
    • Inserisci un altro attrezzo di apertura in plastica dentro la fessura tra il pannello frontale ed il retro dell'iPod, lasciando almeno 4 centimetri di spazio tra i due attrezzi.

    Stick yer dick in. Yer gonna f it up folks

    doug - Reply

  4. Inclinandolo da un lato, inserisci con cura una spatola per circa 3 mm nella fessura tra i due utensili di apertura.
    • Inclinandolo da un lato, inserisci con cura una spatola per circa 3 mm nella fessura tra i due utensili di apertura.

    • Ci sono sottili binari di metallo che corrono lungo la parte interna del pannello posteriore, quindi fai molta attenzione quando inserisci la spatola.

    • Una volta che la spatola metallica ha liberato il bordo del pannello posteriore, ruotala in modo che sia verticale, e con attenzione (ma con fermezza) muovila in modo che entri nello spazio tra gli strumenti di apertura.

    The plastic tools are fine for holding the tabs open or for prying open partially open sides, but you're much better off using the metal spudger to open em

    parthmukeshbhatt - Reply

    I couldn't agree more about the plastic opening tools! The metal spudger worked loads better when it came to actually opening the device. Yes, the metal tool's tip was much sharper than the plastic (and hence, easier to cut your fingers on if your grip slips) but it was substantially more effective in the end. :)

    Kimberly Valdovinos -

    At my local hardware store they offer stiff and flexible putty knives - which kind is better for this purpose?

    anonymous 4032 - Reply

    Don’t do this! The putty knife is too wide and will damage the inside of the case. You can see in the photo for step 19 how the metal clip rail has been bent out of shape. You need to use a narrower tool the will fit between the protrusions on the clip rail (which is where the clips actually are). This video shows a better, albeit more dangerous, method using an x-acto knife. I used the method shown in the video but with a #18 chisel blade on the x-acto knife. With the iPod on its back, I inserted the blade with the beveled side down. Then I pried the side out slightly and peeked through the crack with a flashlight to make sure that the blade was positioned between the protrusions, readjusting as necessary. I used multiple knives to prevent released clips from reengaging. Use this technique at your own risk, and wear adequate hand and eye protection as the blades are very sharp and somewhat brittle.

    Robert Watkins - Reply

    I used the iFixit Jimmy instead of a putty knife. I also watched the x-acto knife video that Robert Watkins linked to in order to find where the clips are located. I slid the Jimmy into those locations until the tool bottomed out and then move on. I only used the metal spudger (to initially open a gap), the Jimmy (to open the clips), and occasionally a plastic spudger (to hold open gaps while I relocated the metal tools to a new section). Pro tip: Use the Jimmy as a letter opener after you fix your iPod.

    Hwyman - Reply

    I used two small putty knives manufactured by a company called Albion Engineering. They make caulk spatulas in multiple sizes. Took me less than 2 minutes to get the back cover off, with no damage to the sides or clips. And - it was my first time! Highly recommend these, especially if you are in the business.

    Ronald Zanarotti - Reply

  5. Spingi con le dita sul pannello posteriore dietro la spatola metallica per ridurre al minimo le sollecitazioni. Fai flettere lentamente la spatola, come mostrato in figura, per garantire che la maggior parte delle linguette di metallo su questo lato dell'iPod vengano sganciate.
    • Spingi con le dita sul pannello posteriore dietro la spatola metallica per ridurre al minimo le sollecitazioni. Fai flettere lentamente la spatola, come mostrato in figura, per garantire che la maggior parte delle linguette di metallo su questo lato dell'iPod vengano sganciate.

    • Questo metodo non prevede di evitare di piegare il pannello posteriore, ma di farlo in modo controllato per poterlo poi raddrizzare facilmente. Ogni piegatura ai bordi del pannello deve mirare a staccare dall'iPod i bordi della cover stessa, evitando di forzare la superficie curva. Così si sgancia anche il maggior numero possibile di clip laterali.

    I disagree with the “theory” here. You don’t have to bend the case at all. Watch the x-acto blade video on youtube (it’s linked above in the Step 4 comments). The idea is to slide whatever wide flat tool (putty knife, x-acto blade, iFixit Jimmy, etc…) in between the clip and the body. Setting the iPod flat on the table instead of holding it will help and you won’t cut yourself if a tool slips out. As you disengage clips, you will find that the body will start coming out on it’s own without having to flex your wide tool and bending the case in the process.

    Hwyman - Reply

  6. Rimuovi la spatola dall'iPod e reinseriscila vicino all'angolo, usando lo stesso metodo di movimento alternato di prima.
    • Rimuovi la spatola dall'iPod e reinseriscila vicino all'angolo, usando lo stesso metodo di movimento alternato di prima.

    • Se possibile, non piegare l'angolo del pannello laterale.

  7. Nella zona tra il tasto di sblocco e la presa per le cuffie, inserisci uno strumento di apertura in plastica nella fessura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod.
    • Nella zona tra il tasto di sblocco e la presa per le cuffie, inserisci uno strumento di apertura in plastica nella fessura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod.

    • Per allargare la fessura destinata all'inserimento dello strumento di apertura in plastica, può risultare più facile flettere con cautela la spatola metallica spingendola verso il basso, ma assicurati di non piegare l'angolo del pannello posteriore!

    The clip holding this part of the iPod together is different from the others around the iPod and you might want to keep the spudger in place until you've opened the iPod completely.

    Karsten - Reply

  8. Vicino al centro dello schermo, inserisci con delicatezza uno spudger di metallo nella fessura creata dall'attrezzo di apertura in plastica.
    • Vicino al centro dello schermo, inserisci con delicatezza uno spudger di metallo nella fessura creata dall'attrezzo di apertura in plastica.

    • A questo punto è facile creare ammaccature nel pannello posteriore difficili da riparare. Quando fai leva per sganciare la linguetta, prova a ruotare lo spudger di metallo sul bordo del pannello posteriore piuttosto che piegare il pannello posteriore verso l'esterno.

    • Utilizzando lo spudger di metallo, sgancia la clip singola sulla parte superiore dell'iPod.

    This was the most difficult step in opening for me. Place the device on a hard surface and press with increasing force until you feel the clip push down and out of the way.

    joe - Reply

  9. Vicino all'altro angolo superiore inserisci un altro attrezzo di apertura nella fessura tra il fronte ed il retro dell'iPod.
    • Vicino all'altro angolo superiore inserisci un altro attrezzo di apertura nella fessura tra il fronte ed il retro dell'iPod.

  10. Dall'altro lato, inserisci un utensile di apertura nella giuntura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod.
    • Dall'altro lato, inserisci un utensile di apertura nella giuntura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod.

    • Per creare una fessura sufficientemente ampia, può essere di aiuto inclinare l'utensile di apertura incastrato nell'angolo superiore.

  11. Rimuovi l'attrezzo di apertura in plastica dall'angolo superiore e inseriscilo nella fessura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod, lasciando almeno 4 cm di spazio tra i due utensili (come fatto dall'altro lato).
    • Rimuovi l'attrezzo di apertura in plastica dall'angolo superiore e inseriscilo nella fessura tra la parte anteriore e posteriore dell'iPod, lasciando almeno 4 cm di spazio tra i due utensili (come fatto dall'altro lato).

  12. Inclinandolo da un lato, inserisci con cura una spatola di metallo per circa 3 mm nella fessura tra i due utensili di apertura.
    • Inclinandolo da un lato, inserisci con cura una spatola di metallo per circa 3 mm nella fessura tra i due utensili di apertura.

    • Anche qui ci sono dei sottili binari di metallo che corrono lungo la parte interna del pannello posteriore, quindi fai molta attenzione quando inserisci la spatola.

    • Una volta che la spatola ha liberato il bordo del pannello posteriore, ruotala in posizione verticale e con attenzione (ma con fermezza) spingila, facendola oscillare, nell'iPod nello spazio lasciato tra gli strumenti di apertura.

    • Fai pressione con le dita sul pannello posteriore dietro la spatola in modo da minimizzare la flessione. Fletti leggermente la spatola in modo tale da assicurarti che le linguette di metallo su questo lato dell'iPod si siano sganciate.

  13. Le clip metalliche vicino agli angoli sono tristemente note per la loro tenace presa sul pannello anteriore. È necessario sganciare queste clip per aprire l'iPod.
    • Le clip metalliche vicino agli angoli sono tristemente note per la loro tenace presa sul pannello anteriore. È necessario sganciare queste clip per aprire l'iPod.

    • Inserisci delicatamente uno spudger di metallo vicino alla clip metallica ostinata.

  14. Fai oscillare delicatamente lo spudger di metallo spingendolo verso il basso in modo che sia completamente inserito nel pannello posteriore.
    • Fai oscillare delicatamente lo spudger di metallo spingendolo verso il basso in modo che sia completamente inserito nel pannello posteriore.

  15. Con delicatezza comincia a sganciare la clip dal pannello frontale.
    • Con delicatezza comincia a sganciare la clip dal pannello frontale.

    • È facile creare una protuberanza evidente sul pannello posteriore difficile da riparare. Quando fai leva per liberare la linguetta, cerca di fare perno con lo spudger di metallo lungo il bordo del pannello posteriore invece di piegare verso l'esterno il pannello posteriore.

  16. Con lo spudger di metallo, continua a spingere verso l'alto il pannello frontale fino a quando la clip metallica non si sgancia.
    • Con lo spudger di metallo, continua a spingere verso l'alto il pannello frontale fino a quando la clip metallica non si sgancia.

    Συνεχίστε να πιέζετε προς τα επάνω το μπροστινό πάνελ με το spudger μέταλλο έως ότου ελευθερωθεί το μεταλλικό κλιπ.

    ermiskaspis - Reply

    I couldn't have said it better.

    mike - Reply

  17. Ci sono due cavi a nastro che connettono il pannello posteriore al resto dell'iPod. Nei prossimi passi, fai attenzione a non danneggiarli.
    • Ci sono due cavi a nastro che connettono il pannello posteriore al resto dell'iPod. Nei prossimi passi, fai attenzione a non danneggiarli.

    • Afferra il gruppo del pannello anteriore con una mano e il pannello posteriore con l'altra.

    • Prendi un bel respiro!

    • Delicatamente (DELICATAMENTE) sgancia le clip rimaste sul pannello posteriore allontanando i lati superiori dei pannelli anteriore e posteriore l'uno dall'altro (immagina che il lato posteriore dell'iPod sia un cardine), facendo molta attenzione a non danneggiare i due cavi piatti che tengono insieme i due lati.

  18. Usa uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore.
    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore.

    • L'aletta di bloccaggio deve essere sollevata solo fino a 2 mm. Questo è un connettore delicato e una forza eccessiva può staccarlo dalla scheda madre.

    • Sfila il cavo a nastro arancione fuori dal suo connettore.

    Be careful here. I screwed up and ruined the iPod's motherboard when trying to reconnect the battery cable.

    greekman07 - Reply

    very easy tear off battery connection from the logic board,very careful when open that plastic lock.

    andraskiss - Reply

    Be EXTREMELY careful not to lift too far up and remove the whole piece from the motherboard. You'll never get the pins to line up correctly again without breaking the solder joints and ruining the motherboard if you do. iFixit failed.

    bcook -

    totally screwed up, pulled out the whole

    agnesmadness - Reply

    the connector came out with the battery cable ,almost lost it. I did get it back in though.

    elsprato13 - Reply

    Yeah, this battery connector is extremely fragile if you pry too hard you will lift the whole connector plastic off the board. A really, really bad design from Apple having that type of connector like that. The white plastic part is not secure at all to the logic board so when you pry the tab up, you may lift the whole thing up.

    rgarjr - Reply

    Had no problem disconnecting the cable, I used a nylon spudger to press the connector down while using a plastic pry tool to pull the cable up, be patient, it might take time.

    Tip for reassemble: Use a tweezer to reinsert the cable, again, it might take time.

    Luis Soto - Reply

    ifixit fail. Be VERY careful pulling up that lever or the whole connector will pop right the !&&* out and you will never, never, NEVER get that sucker back in. Time to buy a new one, %#*!^@.

    Jeff White - Reply

    Just poke this latch up from behind. It's a little scary, but it literally just popped straight up for me.

    Gordon Krupsky - Reply

    You MUST put the warning in the instructions not to pull out the connector. Everything worked perfectly, seriously perfectly, until I went to put the battery cable back in and realized I had popped the connector out and it pulled all of the metal prongs out. Without a way to reconnect metal to metal, this basically just killed my ipod. It's trash now. Such a disappointment. Will not be recommending this site until you fix this one instruction.

    djbagwell - Reply

    Took me a long time to figure it out. The retainer literally pulls up ... straight up, not hinged. The retainer is the (at leeast on mine) grey thingy with a rounded top. I finally got the courage to gently pry it up (2 mm = 1 smidgen) and tthe connector pulled/fell out. Gods know if I'll ever get it back.

    Larry Osborne - Reply

    I pulled the connector off the motherboard, trying my best to be gentle. The instructions need to be more specific about what to pull and in what direction. The spudger wouldn't grip onto anything and I tried to rock the retainer out, not sure which way it needed to go before releasing. Then, voila, the whole thing came off. That's the end of life for my iPod classic, which I've had since 2008.

    David Harbin - Reply

    Is there a way to reconnect? Does it have to be re-soldered?

    Blake -

    1 use a fine tool to lift the brown tab of the latch vertically up

    2 use tweezers to grip the ribbon along its horizontal run then lift out. Don’t grip the last section that bends into the motherboard connector or you might short circuit the battery conductors, which are not insulated for the last 12mm or so

    3 make sure the latch is fully up when you want to connect the ribbon of the new battery, as it falls down very easily and stops the new battery ribbon entering the connector

    anonymous 2502 - Reply

    I released the battery first (with the spudger), which enable the whole case to be butterflied. Then, using a splinter probe with a slight hook lifted the retaining clip, and removed the existing battery lead. Then using a very fine tweezers inserted the new battery cable, and pushed the retaining clip back into place, while holding the cable with the tweezers. All good.

    astutebs - Reply

    Jesus is there a way to buy the brown clip?? It was dangling and I just popped it out of the socket!! When I tried to put that back in, it just broke its leg.. I need help guys! The motherboard is safe though.

    Sizun Cho - Reply

    Late answer by myself. There ARE brown clips available in Aliexpress. I bought them!

    Sizun Cho -

    It would be extremely helpful if we had a better closeup of these parts. It seems the color of these parts is different from model to model. Maybe even from MB to MB. Getting the cover off was easy. But now I have no idea what I am looking at.

    Ronald Zanarotti - Reply

    Definitely need to hold the retainer in place while you pull the ribbon. Worked like a charm!

    Ronald Zanarotti - Reply

    1. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tool, apply a very light force on the back of the brown retainer pushing toward the front of the iPod.

    2. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tweezers to apply a very light force to grasp the battery cord as close to the brown retainer as you feel comfortable, Try not to touch the brown retainer. While still holding the tweezers, use another very light force to lift the battery cord end toward the back of the iPod.

    (I skipped to step 24 because none of my tabs were bent. Also, I was very careful with the headphone cable/keep the two halves together. )

    zeek stahl - Reply

    List the caution first before the step. This is crucial and I thought I did it myself. Turned out I just didn't put it back together correctly and didn't get the battery connected. When I opened it up the second time the battery cable was just dangling. Need to make sure the connection is snapped back down and give a slight tug on battery cable with plastic spudger.

    SEAN Tanton - Reply

    Yup, I’ve joined the flock of people who pulled the whole connector out. I was trying my hardest to reassemble without breaking anything and thought something needed to be flipped down. LESSON LEARNED: The retainer hinge pops up and down VERTICALLY, like toast in a toaster. If the black head and white tongue are flush at rest, it’s closed. Hook the black around the convex side, then lift it up. When open, the black part is noticeably taller.

    Ally Gator - Reply

    Yep. pulled the whole thing apart. the explanation and the picture are not clear enough. they should add a picture where the cable is pulled to show that you don’t want to pull the whole thing

    Syavin Eka - Reply

    Happened to me as well but not because of iFixit’s guide, I followed a Youtube tutorial that didn’t mention this could happen. Anyways, just leaving a comment here to say that it’s possible to reconnect the connector to the motherboard (assuming it’s not damaged beyond repair) as long as you know how to solder stuff (and have the tools for it). Otherwise taking your iPod to a repair shop might be your only option (other than throwing it away but please consider not doing that if the iPod can be fixed, we have enough e-waste already).

    Héctor Cabrera - Reply

    The best way is to pull the battery flat cable alone, and insert it after done.

    gperiusdaufenbach - Reply

  19. Posiziona il pannello posteriore accanto all'iPod, facendo attenzione a non tirare il cavo arancione del jack per cuffie.
    • Posiziona il pannello posteriore accanto all'iPod, facendo attenzione a non tirare il cavo arancione del jack per cuffie.

    Be careful not to damage the hold switch ribbon there...

    Karsten - Reply

  20. Solleva l'hard drive con una mano in modo tale da accedere al sottostante cavo a nastro del jack cuffie.
    • Solleva l'hard drive con una mano in modo tale da accedere al sottostante cavo a nastro del jack cuffie.

    • Usa uno spudger per ruotare l'aletta di fissaggio che fissa il cavo piatto del jack cuffie nella sua sede. L'aletta deve ruotare di 90 gradi per rilasciare il cavo a nastro.

    • Fai scorrere fuori dal suo connettore il cavo piatto del jack cuffie.

    • Adesso il pannello posteriore è libero dall'iPod.

    I don't know if this step is totally necessary. If its not feel free to skip it just be careful to avoid tearing the ribbon.

    kevman12 - Reply

    I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.

    JOSHUAEGILLESPI - Reply

    This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.

    robertdraznik - Reply

    How do I get that little 90° clip to stay back down with the new ribbon in it

    Nar -

    How do I get the little clip to stay down holds the year Jack ribbon to the motherboard

    Nar -

    I just pulled. The thing flipped up automaticly 90° degrees.

    tellmiger - Reply

    This step (and next few “repair” steps) is not worth doing unless you mangle the case when you pry it open. If it doesn’t look all bent up, leave this ribbon attached and skip ahead.

    Hwyman - Reply

    I detached the cable by flipping the clip as described.

    Attaching the cable again was no problem using the plastic spudger to turn the clip back to its ‘close position’.

    Georg - Reply

  21. Ora bisogna riparare i danni causati liberando le parti interne dell'iPod Classic! È molto probabile che almeno una delle clip metalliche nel pannello posteriore si sia piegata verso l'alto. Queste clip devono puntare tutte verso il basso per poter reinstallare il pannello posteriore.
    • Ora bisogna riparare i danni causati liberando le parti interne dell'iPod Classic! È molto probabile che almeno una delle clip metalliche nel pannello posteriore si sia piegata verso l'alto. Queste clip devono puntare tutte verso il basso per poter reinstallare il pannello posteriore.

    Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.

    Joe Parkes - Reply

  22. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger di metallo spingi la clip in basso, facendo attenzione a non strappare il sottile binario di metallo dal pannello posteriore. Come alternativa puoi utilizzare un paio di pinze a punta piatta per ridurre il rischio di scivolare e quindi danneggiare il jack cuffie.
    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger di metallo spingi la clip in basso, facendo attenzione a non strappare il sottile binario di metallo dal pannello posteriore. Come alternativa puoi utilizzare un paio di pinze a punta piatta per ridurre il rischio di scivolare e quindi danneggiare il jack cuffie.

    • Fai attenzione a non danneggiare nessuna parte del jack per cuffie quando cambi la forma a queste clip!

  23. Appoggia su una superficie pulita e dura il pannello posteriore su un lato. Spingilo con delicatezza ma con decisione, facendo ruotare l'intera linguetta nella propria sede.
    • Appoggia su una superficie pulita e dura il pannello posteriore su un lato. Spingilo con delicatezza ma con decisione, facendo ruotare l'intera linguetta nella propria sede.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario ripetere più volte questa operazione per poter raddrizzare i lati in modo ottimale. È meglio che i bordi del case siano spinti lievemente oltre la posizione giusta piuttosto che non abbastanza, perché il riposizionamento del pannello frontale piegherà quello posteriore nel suo allineamento corretto.

    • Ora che il pannello posteriore è ritornato in buone condizioni, puoi passare alla riparazione dell'iPod!

    My iPod wasn’t closing very well, then I noticed that I didn’t do this. Thanks!

    TheYootz Media Group - Reply

  24. La batteria è fissata al pannello posteriore con della colla. Stai attento a non strappare i cavi a nastro del jack cuffie o del pulsante di blocco quando rimuovi la batteria. Usa uno spudger per sollevare la batteria e il cavetto arancione a essa attaccato fuori dall'iPod. Se possiedi un iPod da 160 GB la batteria sara più spessa di quella illustrata.
    • La batteria è fissata al pannello posteriore con della colla. Stai attento a non strappare i cavi a nastro del jack cuffie o del pulsante di blocco quando rimuovi la batteria.

    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare la batteria e il cavetto arancione a essa attaccato fuori dall'iPod. Se possiedi un iPod da 160 GB la batteria sara più spessa di quella illustrata.

    • Se fai fatica a rimuovere la batteria puoi usare ancheun asciugacapelli o una pistola termica sul retro dell'iPod per ammorbidire la colla che tiene attaccata la batteria. Stai attento a non surriscaldare la batteria.

    Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!

    shaunlovesyou - Reply

    I just want to say that with out this tutorial I could never have taken my iPod apart the biggest help was the addition of the putty knife. It took about 30min cause I took it slow. My iPod is charging and seems to be working thank you

    PMM - Reply

    dont do this, as u see, any one can edit it, it's like wikipedia, not reliable.

    sophia - Reply

    I do this and my ipod works now!

    loquetraoul -

    Thanks for this. It worked for me without any hitches. Your presentation, products and packaging are all first rate.

    tripplc - Reply

    All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.

    Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results

    michael earl - Reply

    Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale

    K Queale - Reply

    Sounds like you're just clumsy...

    bjoernskytte -

    Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour

    Dave Sherman - Reply

    My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.

    elsprato13 - Reply

    I just did the exact same thing. In retrospect, it strikes me that if I would’ve warmed the iPod’s back with a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, this would’ve been a lot easier. Learn from my mistakes people. :-)

    Greg Rankin -

    There are several hard tasks in this process and this step was hard for me. Took me a while to detach the battery without damaging the cables. But with some patience I succeeded.

    Great guide, by the way.

    Luis Soto - Reply

    I have been trying unsuccessfully to get into my ipod to replace the duff battery for a long while. Now, armed with your instructions and the right tools I have done it! (not without considerable frustration with those pesky clips I might add). The plastic spudgers are useless by the way. It took a while to work out how to release the battery ribbon cable and larger picture of the clip action would help. I too found the battery glued to the ribbon cable beneath it. Perseverance, patience and a steady handed are a must for this one. Well done and thank you!

    Colin Kaye - Reply

    I did it all, plugged into the charger for 10 hours and it shows charging… I unplugged it and is dead.

    Nora Saba - Reply

    Battery replaced. MB spooled up when I plugged the unit in. Now waiting for it to charge. This process was actually pretty easy with the help of this tutorial. A lot easier than an iPad repair with all the glue. No way could I have done it without the help. So far: every iFixit! repair I have done has been a success. Thanks!

    Ronald Zanarotti - Reply

    When finish replace battery, need to restore?

    TOAT POOPONG - Reply

    The instructions were great! I completed the repair with an hour. I can’t ay enough about the parts, tools, and repair guides from iFixIt. I recently replaced my hard drive with an SSD drive on my iMac and the repair guide for that was spot on as well. Thank you, iFixIt!

    Bruce Baumgart - Reply

    Any luck fixing the hold button ribbon Greg? Mine ripped too.

    Lachlan Griffin - Reply

Conclusion

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

647 Guides authored

71 Comments

Bought an extra pair of the blue opening tools ... they both broke trying to open the case. Guess this one was a bit more stubborn. What saved me was the mini-screwdriver on a Leatherman Micro multitool & the iFixIt Metal Spudger.

cyberneticranger - Reply

Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

This is not possible for ipod 6th gen, I think ifitit may did for 5th gen?

linhaiyxs - Reply

It IS possible and it's really REALLY tough. The plastic tool included in this set is enough to keep seams open where they show in steps 2 and 3 just wide enough for you to put something else in there. But to start them, I used an exacto like blade. When I did this job, I had 3 regular spudgers, the 2 tools provided here, 4 different style green spudgers from somewhere else, 5 large 'guitar picks' sold here to cut the glue holding new iMac screens to the case, the metal spudger, and an exacto type blade.

It was still an incredibly laborious job and although the iPod is back together and works perfectly, one of the seams is bent out a little.

Mike Strum -

Well, *that* was interesting!

Firstly, as a few have mentioned here, the 6th-generation classics are more tightly-sealed than their immediate forebears, so the otherwise-useful plastic tools included in the battery-replacement kit won't cut it all by themselves; artful (and careful!) application of the metal spudger tool was also required. Thankfully, years of freelance IT work on recalcitrant Macs of all stripes helped prepare me for this bit of improvisation, even though this was the first time I've taken a crack at an iPod (my own 120GB classic - thin version). Happily, other than twisting that one metal clip near the headphone jack - apparently impossible to avoid - and some very minor cosmetic damage, the balance of work went without a hitch. I speculate why Apple makes us go though this, but that's for another thread. Thanks for the kit and tools!

barrettwbenton - Reply

LOL! The reason they make it hard to service is that Apple Authorized repair wants $360.00 US to replace the battery!

deaconblues -

I think you will find that the Jimmy tool works better than a spudger and won’t bend the case. It will slide between the case front and the holding flanges and pop them loose. Before you say it, yes I have done this with 6 and 7G. I agree it is a little more challenging than earlier models, but it works equally well.

Rusty Lingenfelter -

Don't attempt it, I'm very technologically literate; but I used too much brute force; ruining the case, ionized plastic (as according to battery), and the screen. Pay the extra $ and send it to Apple for professional replacement. You'll thank me later.

ageofdesolation - Reply

Found the Apple spy.

Will McKenzie -

I found a very easy way to get the case off. Slice up a Pepsi can and cut out a couple of squares, 2" long by 1" wide, and round of the corners. Then once you have a spudger in, work a piece of the sheet metal into the opening, sliding it in behind the spudger as you work it along the gap. With this one weird trick I I had my ipod open in a couple of minutes without any damage to the case or the retaining clips.

Urs Koster - Reply

Just did it today. Opened it within 3 minutes or so. You have to buy the JIMMY knife they are now selling on ifixit.com. Made it so much easier.

bbailey90802 - Reply

I used this youtube video ( http://youtu.be/6aQn-HkvtvM ) and managed to open my case twice now with no damage at all. I took my sweet time taking it apart and watched it over and over and paused after every step. I didn't end up using any of the tools iFixit provided until I got into the case. The thin blade on an exacto knife worked great you just have to be extremely careful! (I stabbed myself once in the thumb, would recommend wearing leather gloves or something like that) I replaced both my battery and headphone jack no problem! Thanks iFixit and thanks for the people who put together this guide! Saved me a lot of money!

tminions - Reply

The plastic opening tools didn't work at all for me. A couple of #15 scalpels worked perfectly as replacements.

lordtara1981 - Reply

The initial "cracking" of the case was the hardest part. I found I didn't need any of the parts kit (aside from the battery). My handy Swiss army knife provided the needed leverage and the tip to use a cut up soda can as spacers was spot on. I found it wasn't necessary to disconnect the audio cable at all. Reconnecting the power cable took a few tries, but the case popped back on and locked in without any fuss whatsoever (damage to clips/case was negligible). Happy Hunting!

paveuf - Reply

It took some time to get the case apart, but it finally got done. My wife and I worked on it. She is 1000x more patient than I am. The blue tools were worthless. We found a YouTube video where they were using atomic bombs (kidding - it was other tools) and we were finally able to get into the iPod Classic. The instructions on this website were good. Battery seems to be working fine. This makes me despise Apple even more though. I don't like how hard they make it to repair items yourself. I'm not much of a do-it yourselfer, but I try. I did change out a hard drive on a desktop before and that went fairly well.

I'm glad I found this website - I was starting to mourn the impending loss of my iPod Classic 160GB as I have a lot of music (almost 60 GB) on it. Anyway, time will tell, but so far the battery is working great!

jasonjouett - Reply

Done. It was scary at times, but got it. Had to use my Victorinox CyberTool to make the first opening (could not get with the plastic opening tool), but other than that the Fix Kit worked really good.

Now my almost 7 year-old iPod will continue playing music for a while.

aegaipconti - Reply

On our 6th Gen Ipod-A1238-80GB tabs are located as follows:

(all tabs are about 1/8 inch in width)

The sides tabs as measured from bottom of Ipod to top,

(1) begins at 5/8" - ends 3/4"

(2) begins at 1 7/16" - ends 1 9/16"

(3) begins at 2 7/16" - ends 2 9/16"

(4) begins at 3 1/2" - ends 3 5/8"

Top tab measured from left,

(1) begins at 1 3/8" - ends 1 1/2"

Bottom measured from right,

(1) begins 3/8" - ends 1/2"

(2) begins 2" - ends 2 1/8"

From previous comments,use the aluminum can trick or thin tools as in referenced video to unlock clips.

clothe36589 - Reply

My tips:

Forget the plastic tools.

I used a safety razor blade on the side seam to provide the initial opening, then worked the metal spudger around the clips from side to top.

Then popped it halfway back in and did the same procedure with the other side and bottom. Pop and pry, had the whole thing open in 15 minutes, no bent clips or case.

Also skipped the headphone jack disconnect, no need.

Thanks ifixit! Got my ipod back and working flawless!!

getmatt - Reply

Love using the ifix as just fixed my ipod classic with new battery

Chris Rybock - Reply

IFIXIT PEOPLE !!!

Thanks for this web. I have just installed a new battery thanks to you.

Keep on working

Antonio from Chile

amobravo - Reply

It worked! I've been using my old iPhone for music and am very excited to be able to put more than 20 albums on my iPod.

I bent the back a bit, but what the !&&*. It wasn't working at all and now it does. I used to drive Volkswagens so I'm used to holding stuff together with bailing wire and duct tape.

Actually, it's not bent that bad and I saved money.

A Leatherman helped as did a utility knife, per the comments above.

Also, be very careful with all of the tools. NEVER, EVER push down with a tool when you have flesh on the opposite side, numbnut. You have to finagle a bit, but you can keep your hands out of the way.

Finally, a rubber mat helps immensely. You should have a prepared, stable, protected work surface whenever you're working with tools of any kind.

Thanks so much!

brcraig3 - Reply

SIMPLE!

I did this and replaced the hard drive at the same time. I do suggest you invest a little more and get the tools that are offered. I own a lot of tools and I was happy that I bought the "tool kit" that iFixit.com offers. Now I have my Tunes back!

Thanks!

Kenny from San Clemente, CA.

kenwinters1 - Reply

Very helpful article. Took me about 1 hour to complete battery replacement. Comments about persevering are helpful. Would be even better if the pics of the ribbon cable connection points were MUCH larger. The plastic separator tools are completely useless in every respect, I had to use small metal screw drivers, scalpel blades and strips of thin metal cut from a beer can (read that last one in other feedback- good advice). Anyway thanks again, all sorted and couldn't have done it without u.

Richard Entract - Reply

Dont use force! It seems like you should really pry on this thing until it pops open but its really easier to pop all of the clips around the entire ipod then it "Should" come open.

I used a thin potty knife for this and found it worked ok but had to use a second one to keep one side from re-clipping as i worked on the other side.

Just my experience...

Andre

andrepaquette - Reply

160g thin...used only the jimmy, got it open in 5 min. didn't find it necessary to remove the headphone connection. thanks for everyone's posts and to ifixit for making great tools/parts and a helpful website. god knows how many iPods have been saved here...

chrisjclack - Reply

This is my second battery replacement on my 120. But after I plugged it into AC power, I ended up with a Flashing (about every second) APPLE on my display. Left it on for an hour, but no change. The cable from the battery to the corner of the iPod is likely the problem. It came out when I was wrestling with it and may not have been reinstalled correctly. Naturally, I worked on a Saturday and will have to wait to find out if I am right. Still, kudos to iFixit. I couldn't have done it without their Guide...

jhop - Reply

This is my second Battery Replacement. Unfortunately, I ended up pulling the Battery Cable out from the corner and tried to reinstall it. I ended up with a flashing (about every second) APPLE on the display. Couldn't get past it. Will call Mr IFIXIT on Monday

jhop - Reply

I used dulled Exacto #10 blades and 2 handles in place of the opening tools, this allowed me to leave the blades in place at the latches as I progressed around the ipod. I now keep the blades specificaly for this repair. (I deliberately blunted the blades to avoid damage to the device or my fingers.)

Steve - Reply

The battery works so great I can't believe it. My iPod used to die if I trued to go through the main menu to a playlist. When I took the old battery out, I saw that the battery was actually warped beyond belief. I switched the battery out easily, changed the hard drive. Then I was able to sync all 12,000 songs in 10 minutes on my iPod, the iPod ran quietly and smoothly, and I charged it completely ONCE and my iPod would not DIE! I was actually trying to get it to die so I don't overcharge it and it took it 3-4 days of playing music for it to finally die.

Patricia Princivil - Reply

Should not be this hard to change a battery. That's why Apple sucks it's customers dry with their service fees. Such a thorough explanation and well done though I don't think I'd have the nerve to do it. I really love my Classic too and it needs a new battery I'm sure of it since it doesn't hold a charge. I would be afraid of damaging it. I wish I had other options than sending it out to Apple which would be a total rip off. Excellent demo!

Jenn Lipinsky - Reply

I was able to take care of the battery install without 19 to 23 (no damage to any of the parts nor didn't I need to disconnect HD wire), however after replacing the battery I am at the same place where I was when I started this replacement. Appears my issue was not a bad battery in a firs place. Device is constantly displaying "Charging. Please Wait..." with explanation yellow triangle and battery and the red bottom graphic. Anyone has any idea what the issue is, drop a comment.

sipankh - Reply

This repair guide is missing the instructions for actually replacing the battery! It does not cover the actual disconnecting of the old battery or the reconnection of the new one. Perhaps this is the easiest step, but it still should be included, since that's the whole objective of this repair! I personally have never disconnected an iPod classic battery, nor have I ever connected a new battery in one. How do I know there isn't some particular tricky aspect to the battery connection? To goof up this final step would be a real shame after going through so much trouble to preserve the integrity of the iPod's case that you don't even give any instructions about the battery!

deaconblues - Reply

Difficult procedure but this tutorial here is a great help. Thanks!

Important: after connecting the 2 cables at the end of the repair: Boot the open iPod to check if electricity and sound work! Only after this close your iPod.

Morgy - Reply

well I was able to replace the battery, but used a razor blade to pry the case out enough to use a putty knife and jeweler screw drivers to pry it open. The plastic tool is crap. It works great, although I cracked the screen in the process. Screen works but it is buggy me that I damaged it. So I ordered a screen for 10 dollars. I am dreading doing this one more time. It is not an easy task. But good tutorial. Thanks

srdavis57 - Reply

I have an 80gb Ipod Classic. I inserted one of the blades of the plastic tool and then just slid it long the seam all the way to the corner. While prying up the blade on the corner it open up the end slightly. With my finger nails holding the long side open I slid the tool across the short end and around the corner and to the other long side. The whole thing popped open with no damage to small clips on the inside. I removed the battery cable and layed the back side over and replaced the battery without fooling with the other cable. You basically have to work the plastic tool like you would open an oyster.

rcorbin - Reply

Guide great. Spudger good. Thin putty knife good. Blue tools next to useless. They are okay at holding the seam open when you get it open, but useless for trying to pry it open. For that I used the spudger to open the seam, then the blue tool to just hold it open while I slid the spudger along to pry it open further up. Secondblue tool in, then putty knife in between. I would also add that after getting up the first side, round the first corner and over the top, this made the seam on the second side impossibly tight, far too tight to open - I ended up letting the first side close up most of the way and getting the spudger in the second side to get one of the blue tools then the other then the putty knife in. Time to replace battery: 20 min.

davidkclark - Reply

My iPod is a 6th Gen 160GB thick.

The guide is very detailed. As other reviews have stated, the only useful tools are the included metal spudger and the non-included putty knife(I got a 1 1/8" but you could go larger or smaller, mostly just used the edge of it for prying apart enough to get the spudger in). I got this kit primarily so that I'd know I had the correct battery. The package is not OEM but it's the same PN, higher capacity, fits, and it works.

All in all the procedure was pretty easy, but I do similar stuff for a living. I looked at 4 steps, winged the rest and it turned out great. If you follow the guide and are careful then it should be hard to go wrong. I spent more time looking for somewhere to buy the battery than I did replacing it.

Also I thought I might have had an intermittent connector(which goes to the control board) but the contacts were just dirty. My iPod now works like a champ.

Joel Siler - Reply

Thanks for the super detailed instructions; I bought all the recommended tools and they all worked well. Just one request: in Step 18, please make the images larger, clearer and include a drawing if possible, of the tiny cable retainer. I just put my tweezers under the white part and lifted it up, but is the white part with the black retainer piece supposed to stay on the 5 contacts, and just the ribbon come out? Your photo in #18 is not clear at all as to how and what to lift up. So the white block and the black retainer both came out, along with 2 prongs which are shaped like the Greek letter mu or the Hebrew letter taw, upside down! And the other three are a bit loose. Now it seems the only way to get at them with a soldering iron (!!) is to take off the framework side rail all around the front part of the iPod. It looks like I have to get the whole logic board out to repair the broken and loose pins.

Question: is it better to try to find a new logic board than try to solder the pins back in?

Bob Coleman - Reply

Looking forward to fixing my ipod! Im ordering kit plus some extra tools off Amazon. Thanks for supplying people with what we need and the education to do it ourselves. My Classic is 10 years old. I do not want to lose function as ive not come close to filling it.

:-)

sanibelsandflee1 - Reply

Good instructions, but as others have said, on the 160gb Gen 6 iPods the blue tools are worthless (sorry ifixit) and it can be a bit difficult to replace the battery beacuase of the Gen 6’s different construction. However, if you have any mechanical inclination and PATIENCE, you’ll be fine completing this repair. Tools I used were to separate panels were a razor blade (like you would use in a Stanley Utility Knife and two tooth scaler tools. They’re used for scraping tarter from dog/cat teeth but they worked fantastic for separating the case. Here’s a link to what they look like/are;

https://www.amazon.com/Tooth-Scaler-Perf...

I used the razor blade to CAREFULLY begin separating the case similar to steps 2 and 3. Once case was opened a bit, I gently inserted one of the scalers. Once one was in place, I inserted the other and just worked my way around the seam gently prying the case apart. Came apart fine and the case was not damaged at all. Went right back together and works like new!

Steve Foster - Reply

I opened it with a combination of cutting up a plastic soda 2ltr bottle (based on someone else’s suggestion using a coke can) in 2cm by 3cm pieces and using them to wedge in the sides while I used a Stanley knife to get them in there in the first place. This way you can cut up as many as you want and leave them in so that the cover doesn’t slip back in.

 

The advantage is that the plastic is so thin yet rigid enough in the 2x3cm size you find that it can push in just as well as some of these pro tools (that normally are fecked afterwards anyway)

 

It was my first ever go and took around 20mins. I’ve patience to burn, when I want. This is a job you DON’T want to rush. TIP.  Just take your time. Most of that 20mins was cutting the pieces to size. I experimented with different sizes but 2x3cm is a good size.

 

Now to find a battery supplier that won’t take a month to get here in Ireland.

Stephen Sherry - Reply

Ipod Classic 160g. Well that was a challenge. The hardest part is getting it open. I had to find a few of my own flat tools to get it opened. I wouldn’t say “very” difficult, but I would say difficult. My jewelers light made it a little easier too. Apple wants $299 to do what i just did for $20. Thanks ifixit!!!!

Frank B.

james brown - Reply

I wasn’t able to use the plastic opening tools. I used a razor scraper to open the gap enough to get the putty knife in there. I bent up the first side a bit—it’ll never quite close right again—but it just back in my car as my car stereo hard drive. The rest came open pretty quickly once I worked in the putty knife. The putty knife was just a hardware store blade—nothing special. Reconnecting the battery cable was a bit tricky; I used a pair of dull tweezers. Now it’s back together and working, though not quite as pretty; not as hard as I expected.

Matt Burleson - Reply

I am an old school tech, former Olivetti , Wang, and WWTS tech and i appreciate all the reviews on here. Why i say this is upon reviewing what worked and what did not work so well i rummaged around in my tool bag and while a splodger is great tool it’s still one size and the putty knife may cause more damage. I found for my A1238 iPOD two old Blue Point FBM-320 feeler gauges (Snap-on-tool equivalent: Gauge, Feeler, Metric, General Use, 20 blades (.05 mm thru 1.00 mm) (Blue-Point®) )

I had to use the two of them, and i am not exaggerating it took literally 5 mines to disengage front from back. the feelers are of course different thickness and make it easy to insert then I just applied the rocking technique all the way around left side 1st face up from the middle. It appeared they are the perfect width to hit each of clips 1st time. Hope this helps and thanks all for you feed back 160gb device with many memories saved thanks to all of you…. Thank again

Jim - Reply

Approximately an hour using the wrong tools the first time. After I had the right tools it only took about 30-40 minutes total taking time. I recommend this video for disassembly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aQn-Hkv...

Buy 3 exacto knives (about $3-5 each). I recommend this, but make sure to wear a good glove with grip on opposite hand. You might dull down the blade by lightly scraping on rough surface (concrete), but this can break the blade, so I used extra care & used them sharp. If you have a Gen 6 ipod the seal ‘is’ really tight, so I took a pocket knife & ran it along the right side to free up any glue & get the opening started. Again be very careful of slipping off. Then follow the video. I bought one blue “ifixit opening tool” that came in handy after I got the front to lift away from the back & slid it along the side. Good because it doesn’t go in deep to damage anything. Tweezers to dislodge the battery cable & a needle nose pliers to bend the clips down when closing. (and 1 band-aid).

Troy McPeak - Reply

Did it! The plastic levers weren’t quite strong enough to get into the seam, so I used a set of three convex Exacto-knife blades. (Look on youtube cited above for guidance).

A tip: wrap all but the last 1 cm of the exacto knife blade in tape (masking, duct, whatever) so that you have minimum sharp cutting edge exposed and DEFINITELY do this work on a table or some other solid surface.

Once open, the only hitch was the battery-motherboard connector. As several previous posts note, don’ just pull on it. CRUCIAL: The brown-grey plastic bit is on a toggle. Just use the little plastic piece to push it back (away from the wire, towards the metal frame -you’ll feel a little click) and the wire comes out easily. Repeat, pushing in opposite direction to attach battery link wire afterwards.

Didn’t undo the earphone wire. Putting the thing back together was easy-peasy. Wife is in next room blasting music from the iPod on the stereo. Thank you, iFixit!

Total time 30 minutes.

John Shea - Reply

Fantastic article. Do what the instructions say, and you will conquer!

astutebs - Reply

I’d like to add that I almost exclusively used the iSesamo (a fantastic tools) with the help of a couple of plastic Opening Tool and one Standard Spudger to make some way for the iSesamo to slide in vertically; I started from the bottom near the power USB connector (admittedly the thinner upper part of the metal case window got a little bent outward but it’s still mendable), I then proceeded with the iSesamo around the lower corner, up to the side opposite the audio jack connector, and on to the upper corner near the Hold slider; I then moved a little towards the audio jack connector but all the lower side and the left side was practically free, so the upper part of the iPod got as if unhinged and came disengaged without even touching the right side of the case. Besides the already mentioned small bend on the lower thin side of the cut, no other relevant damage was done. The iSesamo is an essential tool to use, yes with care, but once you get it in the right slot it can easily slide its way through it all.

Sanatkumara Sharma - Reply

The tutorial worked fine for me.

The blue plastic opening tools were useless for me, as the iPod’s case seam was to thin.

Instead I used a scalpel first and then the metal spudger for leveraging and the ‘1.5" Thin Putty Knife’ to open the case.

Georg - Reply

Used a quality hyde 21/2in putty knife. No other tools needed at all. Just insert putty knife and pry, no damage done, took a minute or two tops. Super easy.

creepingmee - Reply

I am really thankful for this tutorial, and Ifixit ! I just saved my 160Go Ipod by changing the battery. I just did one mistake, while ungluing the battery, the spudger slipped and I snapped the ribbon connector of the lock/unlock switch, which does not operate any more. Could have been worse… Be warned, take your time ! it is exactly as it is described above.

It took longer for the battery to start charging for the first time, but it is now back !

billy bob - Reply

I can’t believe I did it thanks to you ! My dear beloved iPod Classic is back in business ! Thank you so much for the tutorial ! Thanks thanks thanks ! (I hope you can feel howhappy I am :) )

Jimmy Van Oost - Reply

Is the main battery of the multi-amp factory?

ژو پیتر - Reply

I had previously popped open 4th & 5th generation iPods for maintenance & upgrades several times, with no problems.

I couldn’t get this one apart, so I turned to a local cell phone repair shop, who popped it open in just a few minutes while I waited (thank you, Cell Phone Repair of Tustin!).

Once apart, this guide was very useful for the remaining steps.

Battery replaced with iFixit’s battery (and case cleaned up & outer surfaces polished ). Battery life is fantastic now—thanks!

Jason Bardis - Reply

if you’re in the UK, this might be a better option than trying to import the right battery:

https://ipodparts.co.uk/ipod-classic-bat...

duncan rmi - Reply

This was my first time replacing an ipod battery. I took my time on each step and it went smoothly. I have used ribbon cables before but nothing this small. The ribbon cable socket worked different than I expected I spent some time to figure it out. So this was a good learning small project. Good instructions , easy to follow.Thanks

Jerry Larson - Reply

Just replaced the battery myself, and in the process the locking tab came off. Went ahead and put the case back together, and im getting the “charging, please wait” screen, but it’s been quite a few minutes and it hasn’t loaded the main menu screen yet. Would it have anything to do with that tab coming loose?

adam_jackson80 - Reply

Good stuff. I was able to fix with the tool kit. I actually only used the iFixit Opening Tool and spudger. Nice guide.

harttechcomputers - Reply

Thanks a lot for the guide. I don’t know if it’s because I was extra careful after reading it, but I actually didn’t find it as hard as described. It was pretty straight forward and only used a metal spudger, to go around the case to free it. No damage to the back plate or any of the pins. It all clicked nicely into place to close it afterwards.

palako - Reply

While I am a big fan of ifixit and have a collection of their tools, this is a really poor method for removing the iPod classic back. I started with this method and have since tried others. I have now done many and the best and far easier method is to use the Jimmy tool. Before you go to Amazon to buy a cheaper version, don’t. The ifixit model is far superior. Take it like a knife and insert it anywhere into the seam between front and back and then jimmy it (pun intended) downward toward back of the case. Then gently work your way around the outside until the back is free. You won’t bend your case, bend the holding flanges, or otherwise do any damage. You can easily reuse the original back if you want to. I have worked on 4G through 7G. As stated some G are more difficult than others, but the Jimmy method works with all of them.

Rusty Lingenfelter - Reply

just finished putting a battery - thanks to you -in my 2007 IPOD CLASSIC. Was it difficult. Yes. Was it successful. Yes.

Thank you so much.

Michael Hilgert - Reply

Holy cow, that was hard! IMHO plastic tools are useless here, I recommend thin flexible metal opening tools - the more, the better. Still I ripped off a welded bracket. Had to buy a new back cover, which was no problem thanks to eBay.

mcbohdo - Reply

It went easier then I thought it would. I did have to use a thin metal clay sculpture tool I happen to keep on my workbench to get started to open it. The metal spurger would work as well, though not as thin as the above mentioned tool. The case didn't contort much at all, only took about 20 minutes. Thank you! Gives me confidence to tackle more repairs.

Michael Hampel - Reply

I’ve got my new battery for my old iPod classic but I’v not changed my battery yet.

Robin Spencer - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS, watch a proper method on youtube, you will break the case, it will not bend back as it is aluminium

Pugkin - Reply

Merci, beaucoup pour ce tutoriel. Il m’a fallu une bonne heure et demi pour démonter mon IPod Classic 80 Go. Merci pour vos outils très pratique. Je n’ai malheureusement pas pu le démonter sans rayer un petit peu la coque arrière. Et en retirant la batterie d’origine collée, je n’ai pas pu décoller la nappe du bouton hold: elle s’est arrachée. Rien de grave, il est reparti pour de nombreux autres heures d’écoute de musique.

Merci encore

olivieralouis - Reply

This did not end well for my 160gb gen6…….

longdeadmcfly - Reply

Piece of cake, as the saying goes! (Sorry, but IMHO—in my humble opinion—opening the case wasn’t as difficult as it’s made out to be.) Got it done, battery replaced successfully, case pried open and closed up again, in about an hour.

But it’s not all balloons and sunshine. Trying to pry open the bottom edge, the tool slipped and entered the charging port, apparently knocking loose some pins. Now I can’t get the new battery to charge, or the device to sync with my MacBook Pro. I hate creating problems by accidentally breaking something else while attempting a repair! Arrrggh!

I used the flat metal “paddles” found in the original iFixit kit (the one with the 54 bit Nut Driver set, in the grey pouch with Velcro) to open up the iPod, along with a couple of plastic spudgers and the iFixit “Jimmy”. As many have reported, the plastic tools are practically worthless. Both times I tried to use one, part of it broke off in the iPod. I also had no use for the 1 1/2” putty knife.

anasazi4st - Reply

“30 minutes to two hours. IF YOUR LUCKY” Dankpods

Scott Vogel - Reply

Pas facile, mais faisable en un peu plus d’une heure, le plus dur étant de glisser le spudger sur les cotés.

Ps: j’ai utilisé un cutter pour un des cotés en suivant la rainure pour améliorer le passage (presque sans marque)

Attention à avoir un spudger en métal et la spatule de platrier sinon infaisable.

Bon courage ;)

BARDET - Reply

Having read all the comments, I was prepared for a tough job replacing the battery of my iPod classic 160GB 6th gen. But I was very positively surprised. Using an iSesamo tool and a number of plastic pieces that I cut from a small pizza salad container, it was done in less than 20 mins. I used the iSesamo tool to carefully pry open the case, and the plastic pieces to make the clips stay open while I continued to the next clip with the tool. Only slipped once with the tool, making a small scratch in the metal case. No bloodshed, no sweat, no tears. And the case still looks great, aside from the small scratch, no dents or bendings. My iPod now works great again. Thank you iFixit and all the comments here, it helped a lot.

Stina Ha - Reply

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