Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the display on your Samsung Galaxy S6. The assembly consists of an AMOLED and digitizer panel. The components are fused and must be replaced together. This procedure is useful for fixing broken glass or unresponsive touchscreens.

This guide instructs you to replace only the display while leaving the original frame, logic board, and battery in place. Note: some replacement screens for this phone come pre-installed in a new frame (a.k.a. chassis), which requires you to transplant all of your phone's internals and install a new battery. This procedure is very different, so make sure you have the correct part before starting this guide.

If the frame is damaged or bent, it's important to replace it, or else the new screen may not mount correctly and can suffer damage from uneven pressure.

This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

The process of separating the display from the frame usually destroys the display, so don't follow this guide unless you intend to replace the display.

Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.
  • Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Don't press too hard or you may damage the SIM card tray.

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Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
  • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

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  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Reply

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Reply

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Reply

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Reply

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Reply

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - Reply

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Reply

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Reply

  • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

  • If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.

  • Lay the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  • Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.

  • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

Brotan Store - Reply

There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

John Joiner -

the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

get it fixed - Reply

After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

Jae Chung - Reply

I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

ken - Reply

  • Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge of the glass.

  • Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

  • Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.

If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

dougpender - Reply

Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

Jessie Brooks -

  • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.

  • Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the rear glass as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.

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  • Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

  • Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

Wayne Lyell - Reply

  • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

  • Remove the rear glass.

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  • Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from both the rear glass and the phone's chassis.

  • Then, clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

  • Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

Sean Cruz - Reply

  • Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.

Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

David Whyte - Reply

  • Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly.

  • Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone.

    • While lifting the midframe, be careful to avoid snagging it on the audio jack or charging port.

  • You may need to heat and apply an iOpener to the edges of the display to soften the display adhesive if midframe separation is difficult.

FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

Armen Orbelyan - Reply

Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

zikal - Reply

I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

databeat1 - Reply

I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

Anton -

i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

get it fixed - Reply

When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

Alex Philip - Reply

Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

Daniel Yaben - Reply

On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

Brian Hardie - Reply

  • Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.

what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

mike gentry - Reply

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.

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  • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.

This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

Sebastian Diaz - Reply

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.

Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

Uil'yam - Reply

No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

Wayne Lyell - Reply

  • Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable connector from the motherboard.

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  • Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame.

    • You may need to move some of the ribbon cables out of the way while you lift the motherboard. If the board is hard to lift, check that it is fully disconnected and not caught on any ribbon cables.

  • Do not fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.

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  • If your display glass is badly cracked, tape over the glass to contain stray glass and make prying easier.

  • Reheat the iOpener.

  • Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After two minutes, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

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  • Insert the opening pick in the battery-side edge of the phone, between the frame and display, at an upward angle.

    • When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly.

    • When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the glass. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.

Your warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite - you should see the pick through the LCD otherwise you’ll destroy it and it will also need to be replaced.

B B - Reply

The warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite of what you should do - the pick SHOULD BE VISIBLE through the screen otherwise you’ll destroy the LCD.

B B - Reply

not sure about that BB, if the pick is visible, it’s between the digitizer and the lcd… you want these two to come off together or the digitizer will not be functional after being ripped off the LCD.

hogdoctor - Reply

I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

Buck - Reply

  • Slide the pick down the edge of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Stop cutting when you get to the daughterboard to avoid the delicate capacitive button under the display.

  • If cutting becomes difficult at any point, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

  • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

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  • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, from the headphone jack to just past the charging port.

    • Do not insert the opening pick more than 0.25 inches (~6mm) to avoid damaging the home button.

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  • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, near the headphone jack.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

  • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

  • If you do break either of the capacitive buttons or ribbon cables, you can replace the daughterboard assembly, which includes new capacitive buttons.

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  • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the display.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

  • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

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  • Slide an opening pick along the side of the phone opposite the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.

  • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

I found that I could not free the black sticker digitizer in the middle without damaging the digitizer see fig 39. I don’t know if the UK Samsung is glued better? but its very stuck to the frame, be very very careful to separate the pink and black digitizer, they are very expensive, I wish I dug deeper on the internet first, this step could take 30+ mins to do

databeat1 - Reply

  • Slide a pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator.

    • Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.

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  • Use an opening pick to gently pry the battery side of the frame away from the display.

  • If the display and frame to not separate easily, use an opening pick to cut any remaining adhesive. If cutting is difficult, reheat and reapply an iOpener.

  • Do not completely remove the display yet. The display cable is still threaded through the frame.

This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

Felix Robinson - Reply

  • Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display.

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  • Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.

  • After removing all traces of glue and glass from the frame, clean the adhesion areas with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

  • If the frame is bent, or if any glue or glass remnants are left behind, the new display will not mount correctly and may be damaged. If necessary, replace the frame.

  • The best way to secure the new screen is with a sheet of custom-cut double-sided tape. Apply the tape to the back of the screen, then carefully feed the display cable through the frame. Align the screen and press it into place.

Great guide. My goal is to disable my left sofy key. I have done this with software fixes but due to a short somewhere and possibly some water damage the button hits it self continuously causing the phone to run slow even though I used an app to tell it to take no action when the button is hit. Looks like step 42 I should disconnect/break the connection.

If anyone knows an easier way please advise.

ptrgrnwd - Reply

Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

Rafael - Reply

Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

James - Reply

What is the copper foil for shown here on the back of the display assembly? I tore it.

AjL - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. When reinstalling the rear glass, refer to the rear glass adhesive replacement guide.

233 other people completed this guide.

Dante Mazzanti

Member since: 07/13/2015

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22 Comments

I replaced my screen now my service doesn't work as well as it did before. What could I have missed.?

Mike Trevino - Reply

First thing you want to do is make sure that all the cables and wiring are in place on your device's logic board. I have seen this several times in my cell phone repair history.

If that step does not fix the issues then you want to change refer to the Samsung Support site about No Signal issues.

shamir wilkes -

Latent or low service bars after you remove the mid-frame from outer frame is due to contacts within the outer frame not making the proper contact with the board. You can test service outside the frame which is one to two bars and very difficult to make calls. Once refit to the frame properly the service is boosted. If you are having service issues, its more than likely the frame. Take apart and check the inner frame and reassemble. Check service before you replace the back screws and glass battery door.

SPLYCERS SALES -

at step 18 make sure all of your motherboard components are free, my headphone jack got stuck on the frame and i nearly ripped the whole thing off

zigge zwiers - Reply

after the replacement of the display, everything works fine, soft keys are working and give back response, lcd display is also working but only the touchscreen doest recognize a tap... what could be the issue? may u help me asap, thanks!

Timo - Reply

Timo, i have the same issue. did you fixed it?

NEFI -

My phone model is G920i. Is it necessary that I should buy the same model or even models like G920A suits with my phone ?

farhannaz - Reply

I have the same model G920i, did you manage to install a different model?

soy_un_ovni -

my screen is flashing white and on and off and when it stops it works fine ... do i need to change the screen

nikolas mussington - Reply

It's too help full sir and doing a not a good it's best work done by u sir thankfully to provide the use full information thx we love u all

sandeepsuryasurya - Reply

Just changed the screen/digitizer on my G920i. The daughter board had two connections that goes under the housing and connects . One of the connections broke and I am going to replace the daughter board before re-assembling the phone. My question ; should new adhesive be used to re-seal the screen assembly to the housing that holds the boards and battery.

Elliot Hutcheson - Reply

Hello, dude. What version of the LCD digitizer did you get? The options in the store do not match for G920i. Cheers.

soy_un_ovni -

I have a SM-G920A, it has two barely visible cracks in the glass over the display. When it is on they are barely visible. when display is off they are more visible and can be felt with a fingernail.

Can this glass be replaced separate from the LCD display or does both the LCD and the glass have to be replaced to repair it? Or could it be replaced with the NuGlas tempered glass screen protector?

jackerbes - Reply

I just followed these steps to replace LCD on my S6, everything seems to be working fine except service is weak and microphone is giving problems. I can hear the other person but he is having difficulty hearing me, my voice is cutting off. What could be the reason for this?

Shahina Chagani - Reply

I rather just take it and get it done by professionals

Marquia Cato - Reply

Hi there,

I have removed the display assembly but the brown foil on the back of the display, the one that has the black rectangle under witch the battery sits, it become loose and I think it severed the connection with the rest of the foil, when I tested the display it doesn’t light up, I don’t know how that brown foil is called and if is possible to replace/fix this.

Thank you.

Tiberius - Reply

i dropped my phone now the screen is black and the phone doesnt work. do i just need to replace the screen?

Scott

scott proell - Reply

Hi, yes if the display flashes it might be a loose connection. I’ve also seen similar issues with the foil mentioned, Z axis tape works for reattaching it. The foil used for getting rid of slugs will work as used it before for making patches on antennas etc, but nice Z axis and copper tape is sold with the chibitronics circuit stickers kit.

Andre - Reply

My phone Is shattered but the screen Is completely black and the back arrow key and the window app opener lights up. But when I switch on my device it still recieves notifications but I cannot see anything so I am not sure what I broke if it is the lcd or if it is the digitizer broken in certain places so I need to know what part is broken so I can buy the right parts and tools to repair my device and my device is the samsung galaxy s6

patrick - Reply

Plzz help as my phone has a problem of touchpad.

My phone works perfectly sometimes and sometimes not

Plz suggest me what i can do and get rid out of touch problem on my samsung galaxy s6

NILESH CHOUDHARY - Reply

hi my s6 fell down and hit the ground on rhe font left edge. the front glass didn’t shatter but some parts of the white color beneath it got separated .and screen isn’t turning on any more. when trying to turn on the phone the notification led keeps twinkting but screen remains off. what is the solution?

salazar333 - Reply

it looks like the lcd panel below the glass broke. you’ve got to replace the screen. before doing that open your phone and make sure the connector isn’t loose or came off since the price of a new LCD is higher than other brands.

Keyvan Khademi Ravandi - Reply

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