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Nintendo Switch LCD Replacement

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Written By: Craig Lloyd (and 2 other contributors)
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Featured Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

51

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Sections

9

Flags

1

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a damaged or faulty LCD panel on the Nintendo Switch game console. This procedure replaces just the LCD panel. To replace the LCD panel and the digitizer as a complete unit, follow our screen replacement guide.

Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

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  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

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  3. Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

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  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

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  5. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

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  6. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

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  7. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

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  8. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

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  9. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

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  10. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

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  11. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

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  12. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    Edit

  13. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

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  14. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    Edit

  15. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    Edit

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

    Edit

  17. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    Edit

  19. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

    Edit

  20. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    Edit

  21. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    Edit

  22. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

    Edit

  23. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

    Edit

  24. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

    Edit

  25. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    Edit

  26. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Edit

  27. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    Edit

  28. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Edit

  29. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    Edit

  30. Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen. Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap. Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.

    • Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

    Edit

  31. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame. Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

    Edit

  32. Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick. Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device. Leave the opening pick inserted.

    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.

    • Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted.

    Edit

  33. Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    Edit

  34. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  35. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

    Edit

  36. Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    Edit

  37. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  38. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  39. Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive. Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen. Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

    • Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.

    • Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

    Edit

  40. Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so. Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen. Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

    • Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.

    • Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

    Edit

  41. Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.

    • Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.

    Edit

  42. Turn the screen assembly over. Insert an opening pick in between the LCD panel and the digitizer at the top-left corner. It doesn't matter how deep you insert the opening pick, but about 5 mm is enough to slice through all the adhesive.

    • Turn the screen assembly over.

    • Insert an opening pick in between the LCD panel and the digitizer at the top-left corner.

    • It doesn't matter how deep you insert the opening pick, but about 5 mm is enough to slice through all the adhesive.

    • You can slightly bend the digitizer to create a wider gap, but take care not to bend it too far to cause damage to the digitizer if you're reusing it.

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  43. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  44. Heat the left edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the left edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    Edit

  45. Insert and slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive. Insert and slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

    • Insert and slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  46. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  47. Heat the bottom edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the bottom edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    Edit

  48. Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

    Edit

  49. Heat the right edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the right edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    Edit

  50. Insert the flat end of a spudger in between the LCD panel and the digitizer along the left edge of the screen assembly. Carefully and slowly lift up the left side of the LCD panel, opening it like a book.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger in between the LCD panel and the digitizer along the left edge of the screen assembly.

    • Carefully and slowly lift up the left side of the LCD panel, opening it like a book.

    Edit

  51. Continue lifting the LCD panel away from the digitizer to separate the two components. The LCD ribbon cable is slightly adhered to the digitizer. If it doesn't remove easily, apply more heat to that area and try again. The LCD ribbon cable is slightly adhered to the digitizer. If it doesn't remove easily, apply more heat to that area and try again.

    • Continue lifting the LCD panel away from the digitizer to separate the two components.

    • The LCD ribbon cable is slightly adhered to the digitizer. If it doesn't remove easily, apply more heat to that area and try again.

    Edit

  52. Only the LCD panel remains.
    Edit
Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

If your new LCD panel doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

27 other people completed this guide.

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Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

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5 Comments

Add a comment

I need to buy a new frame for the switch not front or rear panel, where do i get one of these? the vent at the top is broken.

Andrew Hammond - Reply

You need the front panel. These are usually sold as a set of the front and back. When you do the replacement, make absolutely sure you transfer the translucent light guide (small piece of white plastic) and the adhesive speaker covers over. One good thing about this replacement is that you don’t have to remove the motherboard or even disconnect the joycon guide rails completely from the middle mounting panel. Take your time, and be very patient. This replacement means detaching the digitizer and screen.

If you can’t find the case here, you might be able to find it on Amazon.

Michael Mueller -

I thought this was going to be hard but compared to automotive this was cake thanks for the guidelines.

thungar_naughty - Reply

Can I use HY-883-4g CPU Thermal Paste Kit-6.5 W/MK CPU Paste instead of the K5-pro thermal paste? Are there other thermal paste recommendations? Thank you.

Ell Wiley - Reply

You can use any thermal paste, if you already got one. If you need to buy one, thek5 pro is our suggestion.

Daniele Carminati -

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