Introduction
Follow this guide to replace a damaged or faulty LCD panel on the Nintendo Switch game console. This procedure replaces just the LCD panel. To replace the LCD panel and the digitizer as a complete unit, follow our screen replacement guide.
Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.
Note: This procedure involves removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.
You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.
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Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
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While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
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Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
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One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
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Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.
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Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
If your new LCD panel doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
If your new LCD panel doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.
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3 Comments
I need to buy a new frame for the switch not front or rear panel, where do i get one of these? the vent at the top is broken.
You need the front panel. These are usually sold as a set of the front and back. When you do the replacement, make absolutely sure you transfer the translucent light guide (small piece of white plastic) and the adhesive speaker covers over. One good thing about this replacement is that you don’t have to remove the motherboard or even disconnect the joycon guide rails completely from the middle mounting panel. Take your time, and be very patient. This replacement means detaching the digitizer and screen.
If you can’t find the case here, you might be able to find it on Amazon.
I thought this was going to be hard but compared to automotive this was cake thanks for the guidelines.