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Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a broken or faulty fan in the Nintendo Switch game console.

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Reply

    I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

    Joe -

    My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

    nin10doh - Reply

    I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

    Banjomanperson - Reply

  3. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Reply

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Reply

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Reply

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Reply

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Reply

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee - Reply

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre - Reply

    PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

    Shawn Spivey - Reply

    One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

    Florian Kraupa - Reply

    Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

    Jason Lane - Reply

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Reply

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Reply

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Reply

    One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

    Nick - Reply

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Reply

    This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

    Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    David - Reply

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Reply

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Reply

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Reply

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Reply

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - Reply

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links - Reply

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson - Reply

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical - Reply

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David - Reply

    Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

    Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

    I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

    Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - Reply

    Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

    cravenkeo khamone - Reply

    Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

    Elia Veschi - Reply

    Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

    Robert Morvai - Reply

    Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

    I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

    J.R. Wood - Reply

    This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

    Kris Morey - Reply

    For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

    I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

    Yakarot Sennin - Reply

    Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

    Rob M - Reply

    When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

    Jason Lane - Reply

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

    Draque Thompson - Reply

    Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

    nin10doh -

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Reply

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

    My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

    Christoph -

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Reply

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Reply

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Reply

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Reply

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

    Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

    Philip W - Reply

    As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

    lievjorg - Reply

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  14. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

    spudger technique is perfect.

    Jaxon Lee - Reply

    For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

    nin10doh - Reply

    Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

    Trae Block - Reply

  15. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Reply

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Reply

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Reply

    They may sell it in the ifixit store.

    Joshua Graham -

    (1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

    (2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

    Travis - Reply

    UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

    1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

    2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

    Good luck!

    Travis -

    you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

    just clean it afterwards

    Richard Aguirre -

    K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

    Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

    Cerus98 -

    i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

    Richard Aguirre - Reply

  16. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  17. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

    Nick Wagner - Reply

    It was not clear form the picture, but you need to pull sideways out toward the edge of the Switch where the JoyCon attaches, not up away from the motherboard.

    Benjamin Fritz - Reply

    Thanks for the feedback! I’ll adjust the wording to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

    This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

    Ian Wilson - Reply

  18. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

  19. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

  20. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

  22. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

    The little gray tab flew off while I removed the cable. I found it, but I can’t get it back on. Is it possible to install the new fan without it?

    Jesse DuRona - Reply

    No. You will need for professional help to replace the whole ribbon cable connector (ZIF connector).

    CCL13 -

    A step here is skipped. There is a small board which contains the cart reader and headphone out jack. The connector for the headphone jack will need to be popped off and the board unscrewed. It can then gently be pushed out of the way while leaving it otherwise connected. Reconnecting the headphone jack’s cable is tricky as a heads up. Be patient there.

    Draque Thompson - Reply

    That step is immediately above this one. Check out step 21 to 23.

    CCL13 -

  23. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Will need to remove parts and board in top left in order to get to 3rd fan screw.

    Christopher Hernandez - Reply

  24. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

  25. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device. Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

    • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

123 other people completed this guide.

Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

24,705 Reputation

82 Guides authored

27 Comments

If your joycons are not charging, it could be the fans fault as they seem to share a 1.8v and or 5v rail, I had both joycons refusing to charge, and the fan was not working, so by replacing the fan, it had them charging properly again.

Corbin - Reply

oh? i was wondering why my joycons died and never turned on. i though the hot switch short circuited them. the same thing happened to mine. The fan died as well as my joycons. very useful mate. thanks for the info!

Robby Ninte -

I changed the fan and it still don’t charge my Joycon. What should I do?

baron154 -

I’ve recently found a video that shows what can be wrong with Switch with the same issue, but working fan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuQC3ipu... . In the comments people confirmed several times that it helps.

Andrey -

If I'm just replacing the fan, do I need to clean off/reapply any thermal paste?

Postponderance - Reply

It’s always a good idea to clean off and replace the thermal paste if the heat sink is removed.

Blake Klein -

Excellent guide, worked perfectly for me, and I’m very bad at taking things apart and putting them back together. Fan fixed my joycon not charging issue as well.

Jeremy Daniels - Reply

Thanks a lot. I used this a few minutes ago to fix my little son Nintendo switch (he will woke up tomorrow with this surprise!).

I am not an expert on this kind of fixes and did this with a lot of caution. Took me around 1 hr and 45 minutes.

Greetings from Mexico

Eduardo Sanchez - Reply

Thank you for all the instructions. I ran all the steps, but I was not sure if I put the fan cable properly. In the end, the new fan does not run. Is there a way to test the new fan before closing everything?

Elektra Star - Reply

After replacing the fan according to the instructions (which were easy-to-follow and comprehensive), my Switch now overheats in docked mode fairly quickly. Is there an easy way to determine if the fan is working properly? My Switch is extremely quiet now which leads me to wonder if the fan is faulty or if I just missed a step. I also redid the repair process a second time and took extra care to make sure all the connections were secure, and made sure to reapply the heat paste carefully in each area, including the underside of the shield plate.

This leads me to my other concern: I used the same heat paste applied to the CPU to the shield plate where the thick, pink compound was located. Could it be that I used the wrong paste in that section?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Taylor Weaver - Reply

Completed the replacement, however, now that the fan works, my touch screen no longer is responsive to touch and the cartridge reader no longer reads cartridges. Any help would be appreciated.

Clint Allday - Reply

Hi Clint! This is a common issue. Try disconnecting the battery, wait ~5 seconds, and reconnect it again to power cycle the Switch.

Arthur Shi -

For Step 17, do we use the same thick/viscous thermal compound as from Step 13 (the K5 Pro) or can we use a standard CPU thermal paste (e.g. Artic Silver 5) ?

Step 17 does not specify, so any confirmation would be helpful.

jaime barillas - Reply

As far as my result goes, it is preferable to choose some less watery, more firm thermal compound on both. As long as it does not run around, it is fine to use the same on both. I have not used Arctic Silver 5 so don’t know how that works. But I have used Noctua NT-H1 and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, both working well. I’ve tried something quite watery from Prolimatech which quickly stopped working after like a week.

CCL13 -

Fantastic guide. I was able to purchase the fan and the needed tools and replace it without issues. I was able to easily follow the directions to take it apart and put everything back together again. Switch runs silently now like it a fresh new switch. Couldn’t be happier that I didn’t have to try to go out and buy a new switch! Thank you very much for the easy to follow guide.

Joseph Alioto - Reply

As a long time computer repair technician, this was about as easy as it comes. I have not touched a console since modding my Xbox 360 with a standard seagate barracuda hard drive in order to play original Xbox games. Excellent guide, easy to follow. Love my IFIXIT Pro Tech Tool Kit and want to thank Steve from @tronicsfix for turning me onto IFIXIT tools and guides.

Tom Rasmussen - Reply

Are the switch lite and original switch fan the same ?

Benoît - Reply

No they are different.

CCL13 -

Is there a different thermal paste I can use instead or can I get a link to smaller amount of the recommended one? I don’t need that much and I cant find a listing for a smaller amount. Thanks in advance!

Edwin - Reply

There's two kinds of thermal paste used originally for different purposes. For use between CPU and heatsink, I recommend something high quality like Arctic MX-4 or better. And the other between heatsink and the shell it could be whatever passable. If you just don't want to stock two variety, use good one for both. MX-4 is quite cost efficient but there are other choices too. 2gram should be about enough.

CCL13 -

Just finished taking everything apart and putting it back together for the second time. Everything seems fine, except that it seems like the switch now has no battery charge, and doesn’t seem to want to charge when connected by cable. Has anyone else had this problem? What should I be looking at to reconnect, or fix, or..?

Thanks

farM0use - Reply

For further information: If I leave it for a while, and try holding down the power button, the nintendo logo comes up for a moment, and then the battery symbol (with a red bar to indicate no charge) comes up. It stay on the screen when the charge cable is in, but doesn’t seem to change, even when I leave it plugged in.

farM0use -

Nevermind…. just needed to charge it for longer. Everything’s working great, and I can only hear the fan when I put my ear right up to it now!

farM0use -

Thank you for redirecting me to the video, it solved my problem.

adriaan.j.j.bos - Reply

I have problem after replace fan it work just with full speed all the time. What's wrong? I bought two fans and same problem

Marcin 91 - Reply

half way threw is enough to get to the fan to clean it mine was making a buzzing noise moving the fan by hand dislodged it

ethan groves - Reply

After completing this guide and successfully changing the fan i ran the device and played some games for half an hour without a problem but then a error came on the screen i thought it's just a glitch so i restarted my hacked console and this message came up :

error uSD failed to process the DMA transfert!

error uSD failed to switch to hight-speed from low voltage!

error fatal error failed to initialize the sd card!

I think the sd card reader has problems.

Mohammad Hosein Yavari - Reply

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