How to remove and replace Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Battery.

Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.
  • Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.

  • If your display is cracked, cover it with strips of packing tape to contain any glass shards and prevent injury.

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The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.
  • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

  • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display.

  • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes—but don't overheat it, or you may damage the display.

Instead of heating the glass directly, apply a light amount of heat to slightly soften the adhesive as you go and use a all metal xacto knife. Heat the knife blade directly and cut through the foam inside like butter. Stop every 3 inches and place some paper or spacer to keep the glass off the foam. Start at the top right or left side where there is an indent. On the bottom and side only need to go in 1/4”, top more like 1/2”.

Ken Richards - Reply

  • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

  • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.

  • Slide an opening pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • The tape is much thinner on the bottom edge than the other three sides. Do not push the tool in too far or you will damage the screen permanently.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

  • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. If needed, you can use a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

Do we need to glue the screen back on? How do we do this? What do we use? Thanks for this tutorial. I wonder if it's necessary to completely unplug the screen when replacing just the SSD

mujzjiggy2k1 - Reply

They mention separate the top edge last to prevent antenna damage. I tried to be very careful but still ended up damaging 1 of three antennas. The antennas are directly under the glue and aren’t really that fragile. They key is heat. I was trying to be careful that the glue wasn’t hot enough anymore. If the glue is nice and soft it’ll easily separate from the antenna. Too cold and the antenna will stay with the screen…

tgruetzm - Reply

  • Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.

  • Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.

  • It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.

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  • There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.

  • Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.

You can disconnect from the lcd rather than the motherboard, each cable has an EMI shield, a metal cover, over the connector, and the shield must be pried off first, then they disconnect easily by just prying up on the connectors

Glen D - Reply

  • The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.

  • Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.

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  • The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.

  • Before installing a new display, check it carefully to see if any parts need to be transferred over from the back of the old display to the new display. In particular, you may need to transfer over the NTrig board in the corner by disconnecting the two attached ribbon cables and using heat and gentle prying to carefully separate the glue securing the board.

  • To replace the adhesive securing the display, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

I've done many phones and ipads in the past. I did 2 of these in a row. Both screens were broken before hand but I was unable to remove either of them completely without leaving fragments around the frame. This would suggest that replacing the drive on one with a good screen will require a replacement of the screen too. Do not put a tool into the speaker areas as it mushes up the screen and requires you to glue the screens back in. The screens I purchased did not have adhesive with them so you need to apply that before plugging the screen back in. I ran 1 or 2 stips of 2 mm tape depending on the with of the contact area. There was a metal cover over the right hand connector on mine. I found the metal covers easier to remove with a dental pick which I inserted into the small holes on each tab then levered up. You have to transfer a small board over to the new screen which requires heating. Make sure to connect the LCD to that board before sticking it back down. Ken Davison

ken - Reply

What adhesive do you recommend?

Chris P -

3M 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape I just did my 3rd (10 min…I don’t think so) especially if display is shattered, this last screen came with tape strips and the backing looks exactly like this one I posted same color and lettering, its very mushy, rubbery make sure screen is perfectly aligned because once this stuff sticks thats it, no adjustment possible. I used a paper cutter the guillotine type to make the different widths from 1/4” strips.

Ed tabickman -

It took 1.5 hours to do the second one.

ken - Reply

  • Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.

  • Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.

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  • Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard

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  • Remove the 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the bottom of the device.

There is another screw immediately east of where the heatsink meets the copper plate that needs to be removed as well

Jason Stewart - Reply

  • Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.

  • Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.

These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

mike_mcquillan - Reply

  • You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.

  • Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.

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  • Disconnect black wire from motherboard.

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  • Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.

  • 1.5 mm Torx T3 screw

  • 2.0 mm Torx T4 screw

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  • Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.

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  • Remove remaining screw.

  • 2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.

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  • The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery.

  • Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.

  • Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances if punctured.

My battery was expanding (Screen was lifting on left hand side) and that made this step the hardest part of the whole process. It was like there was gas between the foil and the battery inside, so it would pull away when trying to lift. You can use the iOpener and place under the section of the battery you are working on, that helped loosen it for me.

mike_mcquillan - Reply

If this is like the iPhone batteries, then get a piece of dental floss. Double it up to strengthen it and then loop behind the battery. Use a sawing action to cut through the glue.

Anthony shackman - Reply

  • Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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StacyAnn Brown

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Metro State, Team 1-3, Carpenter Spring 2016 Member of Metro State, Team 1-3, Carpenter Spring 2016


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thanks for this, use my surface pro 4 all the time, batteries are a disposable item and really need to be user replaceable

(if a company doesn't have a battery replacement service as good as apple's that is)

Bit of hassle but glad it can be done, zero idea where to get a replacement battery from though )-:

Adrian - Reply

found ! selling on ebay, look totally genuine too

Adrian - Reply

excellent presentation. I’d never try it myself. But I came here with what appears to be a battery problem. If you accept it as a bit offtopic: my battery icon reads 100%. when I am connected to my adaptor. When I remove the aadaptor plug, the screen goes to only a faint outline…to faint to read what % the battery is reading at. Any thoughts? I’m in a rural area of South West Thailand. So, v difficult to get to a reliable repair shop. Thanks !

paddy - Reply

Thanks for the tutorial. Managed to break a display cable anyway T_T. Just broke itself… The rest was almost a piece of cake.

Seriously WHY so much shields on the motherboard, its insane… As a Mac Technician for almost two decades never saw such a mess (well except the powerbook 12” maybe).

That being said, I love my Surface !

huexley Yannick - Reply

I believe it is shielding EMF/EMI from the LCD, since everything is mounted right behind the LCDin extremely close proximity, electromagnetic interference can distort the picture, at least that’s the theory. On a Mac or traditional laptop, the LCD is well away from the current carrying portions of the laptop

Glen D -

Anyone knows if the Surface Pro is able to run without battery? Connected to power supply of cause.

Søren B - Reply

I was not able to run it with the dead battery, even plugged in. It would start to boot, but once the OS kicked in with all the graphics, it would die. I managed to get Ubuntu Linux to work on it a little better, but I would not suggest it. It did not work well enough to use, and Ubuntu didn’t have drivers to run the pen or touch screen very well. Ultimately, replacing the battery worked, and I am now enjoying my Surface Pro 4 again!

Ray Sewell -

I have two under my belt now.

First was a broken screen, very difficult getting the screen off without leaving shards of glass attached to the adhesive. Replaced all adhesive with new.

Second was a battery that was expanding lifting the left side of the screen. Since the left side was lifted this made getting it started for easier. Screen came off intact. The speaker wire (Red/Black) is very fragile, I pulled the pins out of the holder when trying to remove. I was able to put them back. I would avoid it if you can as you only have to lift the mother board high enough to get the battery out and back in. There is enough slack, so I would recommend only removing if absolutely necessary. Followed tip to remove and replace thermal paste (Cleaner and paste (~$15). Had to replace the adhesive under the batter, just ran several stripes of the 2mm adhesive that I used for the display.

This site was a great guide.

mike_mcquillan - Reply

Thank you for this teardown and instructions! I just finished repairing my Surface Pro 4 after it sat for a year as a brick when the battery died. (I couldn’t get it to reliably boot up - and stay up - with a bad battery, even when it was plugged in.) I purchased all of the suggested equipment but ended up having to use a razor to shave off some of the aluminum case - near the indentation where the speakers are - in order to get the opening pick under the screen. The pictures were very helpful. Mine had a fan attached to the heat sink on the left side of the device, which meant there were a couple more screws to remove, but otherwise, the teardown was spot on.

Ray Sewell - Reply

Hi friend

Where I can get original battery for my Surface Pro 4?

Please give me link

Many thanks

Andread - Reply

Which part of the screen is the actual touch screen connection? I just did all of this and my touch is off a bit. I touch one place and it moves one other place. The pen isn’t accurate anymore either. My guess is it’s that housed connection on the back of the screen itself? I can take this thing apart again and just try it; just wanted to see if anyone had the exact connections..


Ward Anderson - Reply

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