Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
65
Time Required
1 - 3 hours
- Disable Auto Boot 1 step
- Lower Case 7 steps
- Battery Connector 6 steps
- Trackpad Assembly 7 steps
- Logic Board Assembly 28 steps
- Battery 16 steps
Featured Guide
This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.
Introduction
Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover is designed to weaken the glue securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.
iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.
Tools
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
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Four 4.7 mm screws
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Two 6.6 mm screws
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Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.
If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.
I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!
Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.
I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.
Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.
I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross
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Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.
It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.
I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?
It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.
Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.
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Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.
I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?
In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.
J D -
I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross
REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?
Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.
My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.
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Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?
I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.
Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.
Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/
I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)
Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.
Tim -
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Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?
im in the exact same boat right now.
Was everything okay in your case?
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable's cover bracket.
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Remove the bracket.
T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.
What am I doing wrong?
I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?
I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(
T4 worked perfectly
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Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.
In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.
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Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.
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Gently feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.
WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.
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As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)
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Remove the trackpad assembly.
They are not kidding about the jumping washers.
Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.
Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?
yep lost a washer in the process
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Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the keyboard connector cover bracket.
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Remove the bracket.
I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.
Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.
T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.
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Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.
This appears to be a T4 not a T3
They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.
I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.
't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.
The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.
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Remove the bracket.
Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.
't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.
it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.
T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector.
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Remove the bracket.
It’s T4, not T3.
Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable covers:
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Two screws on the left
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Two more on the right
Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.
Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.
Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.
Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.
When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.
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Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side.
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Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.
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Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.
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Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.
DO NOT TWIST
The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.
May be the worst part of the whole procedure
Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.
Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!
I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??
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Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket.
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If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.
Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).
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Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.
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Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.
Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.
Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.
These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.
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Remove the ten screws securing the logic board assembly:
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Two 2.8 mm T3 Torx screws
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Five 2.9 mm T5 Torx screws
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One 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.9 mm T8 Torx screw
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One 3.8 mm T8 Torx screw
I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw
My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu
EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got
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Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.
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Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
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Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.
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Remove the two screws securing the battery board:
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2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.
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2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.
On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1
On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
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Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.
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Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.
I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.
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If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?
Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.
I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.
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Lift and remove the battery.
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Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.
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Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.
Mine was very difficult to remove and clean. I spent forever trying to clean up the residue. However, I tried 70% isopropyl on two bays and the iFixit adhesive remover in the other two, and covered with food plastic wrap. Went to lunch and when I got back I used razor blade scraper (like used to remove stickers from glass), and it was pretty easily cleaned. Both chemicals worked just as well. Just soak and let the chemicals do the work.
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If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.
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Carefully position the battery and set it into place.
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Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.
In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.
Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.
I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.
After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.
The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.
I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.
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After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top.
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Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).
Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).
Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.
Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.
Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).
Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…
Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.
wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.
I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.
Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.
Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.
That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.
I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?
robert -
OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.
in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
40 other people completed this guide.
22 Comments
it’s an unbelievably undesired design that glues everything together. And the design arrangement for the screen was just… annoying.
Holy &&^&^$^ $@$*, good thing you dont have to delaminate the screen just to replace the battery. Wtf.
Why removing the logic board. I don’t understand it seems useless. Just detach the battery cables and the battery.
There is a video on youtube that shows this (think its turkish, and they only disconnect the battery and start removing it from there with a plastic spatuala). I think its more to do with the fact that this guide doesnt want accidental spillage of adhesive remover onto the logic board. Also to avoid and damage to the board when cleaning the remenants.
@sciack: well - the point here is that one uses some liquid to soften the glue from the batteries in place - what if that liquid gets onto the mainboard?! And if this where you who spilled it onto the mainboard, and if this guide wouldn’t contain the removement of the logic board, I bet you would be the first wining, crying etc….
Do you really need to use glue remover? On previous version you could simply peel off the battery. There is adhesive with the new battery anyway. Might need a touch of alcohol/acetone in between but this seems like overkill?!
Skill level: Novice, first time doing this kind of project on macbook pro 2017. The 65 step process seems daunting (for a novice). But, once you get started and stick to the plan its not difficult. All the credit goes to the Ifixit and author of this manual. In first round, I skipped from 24 to step 50 thinking I had cleared the battery, only to find the top section buried under the board. But, thanks to the clear instructions I was able to salvage the project and the macbook/battery works great. Maybe put in warning at step 24. Also placing new battery in exact location is tricky. Suggestion, remove sticky pad covers one at a time once in location. Suggestion: use the organizer (with the box grid) and put labels with step #, that way once replacement is complete, putting macbook back is easy. Thanks
Really good instructions and kit. As RS20 says, ORDER THE ORGANIZER! Also, to be explicit, you must perform all steps. Ribbon cables to the flanking batteries are under the mainboard and so it needs to be removed. Adhesive on mine was very strong, and I ended up repeatedly putting the adhesive remover on the edge of the removal card and then sliding it under each battery.
I’ve followed the instructions but my battery will not charge. I’ve taken it all the way down to dead at this point and can no longer turn the laptop on. When I did get it on, the left fan was running continuously. I don’t believe I’ve damaged anything in the process but it’s certainly possible. I’ve tried resetting PRAM and SMC a multitude of times, it just doesn’t seem to recognize the power cord being plugged in. I’ve tested the power cord with other computers and have confirmed this cable working.
Any idea why it would turn on (ie it’s running on the new batter) but then not charge?
anyone have a issue of left Fan running at 6488 RPM’s after this. If the system is on the left Fan is running full speed now.
Absolutely incredible guide. Very satisfying to finish this successfully.
I used an egg carton for a screw organizer and, at 49 yo proud to say didn’t use any magnifying/corrective eye wear! Smallest screws I’ve ever seen.
Only a few minor issues - upper right screw in Step 29 refused to go back in (I think it’ll survive), REMEMBER there’s 2 ribbon cables in steps 31/34 - I installed the logic board forgetting about the lower cable….LUCKILY was able to fish it out from underneath after realizing it during reassembly. Also forgot to pull the trackpad ribbon all the way though and put a neat sharp crease in it on reassembly. Just massaged it back flat and works fine.
Thanks to the author/iFixit very much for this!!
Amazing guide. Glad i decided to let Apple do it for $199! Not confident enough to have done this on my own. Repair came back today. Letter inside says they replaced 661-07954 SVC ENCL TC W/BAT ANSI GRAY MB under keyboard program and 605-02685 Logic Board 2.8GHZ 16GB RP555 256GB FCC w/sympton being failed sensor test. Does anyone understand this. Symptom was enlarged battery because i only had 110 cycles since unit always plugged in due to external monitor use. Computer always ran fine.
Think I have the same issue as you with a swollen battery, how long was your repair time via Apple in total? How was it only $200, it appears to be closer to $350 based on their site repair pricing. Thanks for any potential info.
Eric -
I Echo Jompos strategy about not having to remove the LB. I would add that in order to loosen the “Fixation” of the LB, I removed all the screws attaching the board to the lower case. I also disconnected L & R speaker cables from LB. Used spudgers wedged on either side of LB to carefully raise LB enough to carefully slide battery flat cable out from under LB. Insertion of new battery flat cable under edge of LB was done with care and good lighting. Battery extracted with a silicon, rubber cake icing spreader. No liquids or floss used here.
Well, I went through the whole process. I’m experienced at working inside machines, although it’s been a while. Now… the Mac says it has no battery available. I opened it back up and the ZIF socket for the battery data cable is missing its lever. I tried carefully and fully re-seating the connector since only the lever is missing, but no joy. Looks like I have a very expensive and under powered desktop system now. :-(
Expensive failure. Torx heads stripped out, lost washers, can’t reseat the cover screws. Do not attempt this, imho.
Well I followed the instructions to the letter, Very well written & clearly explained. Pleased to report that all went well & my problem has been resolved. The MacBook Pro lives on to fight another day. Many thanks to the team at iFixit.
Battery replacement seemed to go as expected. While plugged in to the wall charger, mac boots fine, and behaves normally - Except, there is no battery detected. System Report (Apple Menu > About This Mac > System Report >Hardware > Power : Battery Installed: NO . Seems the new replacement battery is faulty. I did double check the battery data cable connection is as seen in STEP 12. Any other ideas?
Apple has definitely made improvements in the 2017 models as far as removing and re-installing the mother boards. I was not looking forward to that part given what a pain it was in earlier macbook pro’s but this time that went very easily! There are still an awful lot of connectors but if you keep them in order with their screws where the cat won’t walk across your desk and scatter them then this felt much easier than previous versions. I know that earlier models had you remove the mother board just so you didn’t get acetone on the speakers but it seems that on the 2017 model that some of the battery cabling actually goes under the lip of the motherboard and so you really can’t safely get it out without doing this where on older models if you were willing to risk the speaker cones you didn’t need to do it. On the 2017 it seems you really do need to do it. Waiting for the iFixit guide to post apocalyptic appendectomy ;)
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Reply
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Reply
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Reply
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Reply
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Reply
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Reply
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Reply
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Reply
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Reply