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Right to Repair

Parts & Tools

Introduction

Hearing things? Not hearing things? Use this guide to replace the right speaker in your 15" Mid 2015 MacBook Pro Retina.

Note that the right speaker is on the right of the machine while you're using it, and on the left while you're working on it.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Reply

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Reply

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Reply

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Reply

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Reply

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Reply

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Reply

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Reply

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Reply

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Reply

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Reply

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Reply

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Reply

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Reply

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Reply

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Reply

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Reply

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Reply

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Reply

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Reply

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Reply

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Reply

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Reply

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Reply

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Reply

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Reply

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - Reply

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - Reply

  13. Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - Reply

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  17. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - Reply

  18. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  19. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  21. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    Same comment as on step 16…use spudger.

    Bill Klemme - Reply

  22. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  23. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  24. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

  25. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - Reply

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - Reply

  26. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  27. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

  29. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  30. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - Reply

  31. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  34. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

    The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

    vincentdrummer - Reply

    The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

    Bill Klemme - Reply

  36. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

    Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.

    Bill Klemme - Reply

  37. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

    Bill Klemme - Reply

  38. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - Reply

  39. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

  40. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  41. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

    When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

    Andrey Pirozhenko - Reply

    Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

    Alek Curless - Reply

  42. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  43. The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case. Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.
    • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

    • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

    Small comment on starting the reassembly, make sure to check picture on step 30 so that all connectors are exposed and not covered by logic board, I wasted some time putting the logic board back in and then having to remove it again to expose some of the connectors I missed.

    Rafael Lüder - Reply

  44. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

42 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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15 Comments

My Mac book pro 15” Mid 2015 got the right side speaker issue. I have ordered the speaker from iFixit and I am able to replace the speaker by following the steps given above. Thanks to iFixit.

KRISHNA PRASAD PSR - Reply

Is there any way replace right speaker without remove the mainboard? Can we cut off the cable socket of fail speaker to get speaker out without remove the mainboard, and then when reassembling, we put the cable wire lie on the mainboard?

Thank you!

Tai Le.

Tai Le - Reply

Excellent. Successfully replaced RH speaker in my 2015 retina MBP. Took about 3 hours.

Tricky bit: Before screwing main board back into case I forgot to first make sure the left speaker wire, keyboard light cable, etc were all poking above the board (rather than squidged underneath), so had to retrace some steps…. i.e., make sure that none of the connectors are stuck under the board.

My tips:

1. use correct screwdrivers which are also magnetic (to hold screws), and also to use a plastic spudger where shown in instructions.

2. Get a couple little bowls (like might hold sauce) and place screws for case in one, and some other bits in another.

3. Use couple of upturned post-it notes and stick the little screws on the tacky strip while noting with pen underneath what size, and what for.

4. For some bits (cable end cover plates, logic board, etc) rather than try to keep track of all these different screws I immediately loosely placed them back in the chassis mounting holes for safekeeping, after removing each part.

Ray Lowe - Reply

Insane how many steps need to be done for such simple device

Rombout Versluijs - Reply

This guide was awesome. 2 hardest parts where reinstalling the logic board without any ribbon cables under it, and reconnecting the antenna lines.

Joseph Dale - Reply

I lost all my love for APPLE / MAC after JOBS passed away. This company and its product are going to sh&t. Been a MACINTOSH user since 1992.

Mark Lugo - Reply

do you think there’s a way to to install the speakers from the 2018 15” MacBook Pro into this model with some modifications to the speaker case? Its about the only thing I really miss from the newer model

thebook55555 - Reply

Whole process took about 3 hours but went well as I had all required tools and some prior experience.

Agree that most difficult part is ensuring that all ribbon cables and connectors are outside logic board

and not underneath it during reinstallation….the antenna connectors were also a bit tricky - I use a binocular

magnifier on my reading glasses and strong work light. Also had air duster can on hand and isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds to clean

up interior of mac along the way - quite a lot of dust inside. Although mac sounds better now with replacement right

speaker it is still not perfect…I wonder whether audio drivers are also implicated in my original problem (fuzzy distortion

on right speaker especially of lower frequencies)…..

Richard Cox - Reply

I stopped after step 29 and then finagled the speaker cable out, and replaced it pretty easily. I just pulled up the motherboard a bit

Chase Lambert - Reply

Is it worth replacing the battery while doing this fix?

David Kim - Reply

I just did this and yes, its almost the same (time-consuming) steps to get to the battery as to get to the speakers.

martin froehlich -

good and comprehensive guide. if only the replacement parts were of the same quality.

martin froehlich - Reply

Ive done screen replacements on iPhone 4 and 6 with the instructions with these people and now both speaker replacements on my wifes Mac…. Always awesome detail, always complete… Thank you again!!!

Keith Kern - Reply

This is the first time I am disassembling a macbook. Thanks to the author, i was able to replace both the speakers:)

S/O V S Pakianathan Pavithren - Reply

I could not have done my speaker replacement without this. Many thanks! Went to YouTube first and found a lot of dumb stuff. This is perfect! I agree with Ray Lowe about making sure all the connectors are sticking out before fastening the big board.

I had a piece of paper for each step that had parts/screws, drew a diagram and stuck each screw into it’s own little hole in the diagram.

Bill Klemme - Reply

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