Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive will damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. This guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery.

If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold), click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

      • Eight 3.0 mm

      • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Reply

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Reply

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Reply

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Reply

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Reply

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Reply

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Reply

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Reply

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Reply

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Reply

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks


    Jakob Dahlin - Reply

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Reply

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Reply

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Reply

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Reply


    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..


    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Reply

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Reply

    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Reply

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Reply

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Reply

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Reply

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Reply

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Reply

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Reply

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Reply

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Reply

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Reply

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Reply

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries


    steve - Reply

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video:

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Reply

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Reply

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Reply

    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

      • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

      • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Reply

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Reply

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Reply

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Reply

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Reply

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Reply

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Reply

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Reply

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Reply

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)



    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Reply

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Reply

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Reply

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Reply

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Reply

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Reply

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Reply

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Reply

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Reply

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Reply

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Reply

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Reply

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Reply

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Reply

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Reply

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Reply

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Reply

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Reply

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Reply

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Reply

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Reply

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Reply

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Reply

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Reply

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Reply

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Reply

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Reply

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Reply

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Reply

    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

      • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Reply

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Reply

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Reply

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Reply

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Reply

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Reply

    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Reply

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Reply

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Reply

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Reply

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Reply

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Reply

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Reply

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Reply

    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

      • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

      • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    Add Comment

    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Reply

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Reply

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Reply

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Reply

    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

      • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

      • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Reply

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,


    sethroot - Reply

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Reply

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Reply

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

      • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Reply

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Reply

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Reply

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Reply

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Reply

    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Reply

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Reply

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Reply

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Reply

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Reply

    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

    Add Comment

  3. Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Reply

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Reply

    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Reply

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Reply

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Reply

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - Reply

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - Reply

    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

      • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - Reply

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - Reply

    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

      • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

      • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

      • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

    Add Comment

    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

      • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - Reply

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Reply

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - Reply

    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

      • Clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - Reply

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - Reply

    • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

      • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Reply

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Reply

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Reply

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Reply

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

    • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

      • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Reply

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Reply

    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    lamajr - Reply

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Reply

    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    Add Comment

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

      • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

    Add Comment

    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

      • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

      • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

      • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    Add Comment

    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

      • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

      • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - Reply

    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

      • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    Add Comment

    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

      • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

    Add Comment

    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    Add Comment

    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

    Add Comment

    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

      • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

      • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

      • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

      • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

    Add Comment

    • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    Add Comment

    • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

    Add Comment

    • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

    Add Comment

    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

    Add Comment

    • Remove your book or foam block.

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

    Add Comment

    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    Add Comment

    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

    • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

    Add Comment

    • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

      • Lift and flip the two outer battery cells to clear access to the remaining adhered edge of the center-left battery cell.

      • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

      • Remove the first card that you inserted under this battery cell in the previous step.

    Add Comment

    • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

    Add Comment

    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

      • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

      • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

      • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Add Comment


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

42 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

194,291 Reputation

164 Guides authored


iFixit Member of iFixit


113 Members

7,289 Guides authored


I just replaced my battery successfully using a modification of this method: follow step 1-4, then 34, then remove the battery pack using thread (or dental floss as in my case), as shown in this video: . If you use dental floss, make sure you at least quadruple it to have enough strength, and tie around two screwdrivers at the ends, otherwise it can be pretty painful. Finally, use a very small amount of the adhesive remover liquid to help fully remove the adhesive strips (making sure it doesn't go anywhere else), and install the new battery (step 54)!

Marino Pagan - Reply

I just replaced my battery and it's working fine!! But now all the right side of my mac won't work... HDMI, USB and CARD READER, but I'm sure i need to check it again I I'm sure forgot to connect the cable...I guess! but overall I dealt with it and I'm really proud. Thanks IFIXIT. I would send a firmer screw piece number 5 because it starts to peel off metal as soon as you start using it. But I really like your website and every guide you have are really well explained! Thanks a lot for making me save money to go to a store to have it fixed.

Gaston Dalmau - Reply

Indeed! There was a cable not connected !Works like a charm! Thanks again

Gaston Dalmau - Reply

Just finished the battery replacement following these instructions to the letter… at times I wanted to listen to some commentators that said x step wasn’t necessary or that doing something broke something else. Trust me- every step is necessary to do this right, and everything works just as it did before! Thanks so much for the excellent guide!

The airport card re-connection was the hard… but even more difficult was making sure all the connectors were not under the logic board before screwing it back down… I had to undo my work two times because I missed the back light connector and the track-pad ribbon cable!

Hints for those that tackle this themselves: The pictures of the screw removal were extremely helpful… print out the pictures of the steps where you remove screws and put the screws in the places where you removed them on the picture… OR draw boxes for the screw removal steps on a sheet of paper and lay the screws out in the relative positions that you removed them!

Eric Kitchens - Reply

Great tutorial! I recommend buying two T5 screwdrivers as I stripped one of them and thankfully I had a backup. I still had to drill one screw though.

Pete - Reply

I just did this using the string method. I dipped the string (cooking twine) into rubbing alcohol and went to work. I wore dishwashing gloves for grip. It took me less than 10 minutes with minimal effort, working slowly and carefully. The removal was very clean. You will need a pentalobe screwdriver to take off the bottom cover and a T5 screwdriver to remove the two torx screws that secure the battery. Installation was easy. Laptop is working! I have to say that this doesn’t look like an OEM part. It does work though.

Kim Nguyen - Reply

Very well written. My installation went very well until I discovered that the end of the data cable between the i/o board and the main board had come off. I had to go from steps 3-29 all over again to reattach it. But now it is all back together and working.

peteyx - Reply

Just made it. Took me 15 minutes. The hardest part was to remove the rests of adhesive after removing the battery.

I just needed the screwdriver and a 2-3mm tearproof thread. I first tried floss, but it was too flimsy. Turns out, thicker thread is better because you can apply much more force without cutting into your hands. With that it only takes seconds to pull one battery off, about 2 minutes for all 6. No chemicals required.

You also don’t have to unscrew all the things, just the bottom case and the two screws that hold the battery controller in place.

Stephan Hoyer - Reply

Great tutorial!! Thank you very much. I just finished working through this to replace the battery on my co-worker’s MacBook Pro, and everything worked as expected. Keep up the good fight, iFixit!

manwithfire - Reply

Guide was mainly well written. I was able to replace my battery in about 2.5 hours using this guide. I would recommend updating step 21 to remove one of the screws attached to the heat sink to help remove the I/O board and step 30 to remove the MagSafe screws before removing the logic board.

Christopher Hofmann - Reply

Looking at Marino’s comment from July 2017, I would like to get opinions, both pro and con, about skipping steps 5 to 23. I am replacing the battery only and some of the steps for removing various connectors sound a bit nerve racking.

Charles Larkins - Reply

A complete teardown like this is very risky unless you have a high level of confidence and experience with doing teardowns on integrated laptops, which often have narrower clearances and more fragile parts than older, bulkier style laptops. As you can see below someone who is Apple Certified and Comptia A+ has expressed having issues with this. In my opinion taking the laptop apart like this for this battery replacement is the last option. The first, if you have little experience is to have someone else do it. The second, if you have confidence with isolating the battery compartment safely for adhesive removal is to follow only the steps required for removing the battery itself, and the third is to follow this guide.

flournnoi -

Part 1: I bought a genuine Apple part for this and followed this document, using an antistatic mat and also iFixit tools. When I finished the Mac would not power up. It took it apart several times, went over everything and could not find a reason why it would not power up. Tried an SMC reset, the LED on the Magsafe charger changes from amber to green and then back to amber but the Mac still does not boot. You notice in the article that the battery is bonded to the top case , you need to use a solution to break the adhesion then carefully remove the battery ? Apple do not do this. They sell the top case as a complete unit and once you have removed the battery from the top case they class it as a third party or unskilled repair and they take no part in it. This means if you then go to an Authorised Service Provider they will quote stock price for any parts, this means the part they replace can not be sent back to Apple. Apple stores will flatly refuse to help you.

Bob Murray - Reply

Part 2: so now I have a mac that will not power up. Both Apple and the service provider have said I need either a new top case or a logic board. The charges for this are staggering, the Apple Store are simply not interested in helping. I asked the person I bought the battery from if they had experienced this before, I got it on ebay , and their response was pure aggression towards me so I did not pursue it any more. I am Apple certified and Comptia A+ so I have a lot of repair experience, just not ACMT. I have all the tools and patience to follow what I saw as something relatively simple.

My advise is beware before you attempt to follow this article because I was better off with a working Mac with poor battery performance.

Bob Murray - Reply

@bob_reno Sorry to hear this. It’s hard to know what might have gone wrong, but one possibility is the battery itself—we’ve seen many an unfortunate MacBook fried by sketchy eBay batteries. Given the response from the seller, I wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case. Thanks for sharing, and better luck with your next repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

The riskiness level of this approach is way too high relative to the basic requirements of replacing the battery. This is pretty much a teardown which is not necessary for battery replacement. Yes, you will need to use some type of adhesive removal which is risky near the other components of the computer, but way less risky than this complete teardown.

flournnoi - Reply

There is no reason to basically dismantle the entire computer to remove the battery. The only explanation I can come up with for this idiocy is that iFixit is desperate for people to buy their fix kits rather than just a battery itself from any number of other vendors.

Ethan Payne - Reply

@ethanpayne The reason for doing it this way, as explained at the beginning of the guide, is that the solvent can damage the speakers—and it’s very difficult to get enough solvent under the battery without it contacting the speakers. To get the speakers out of the way, you have to first remove the logic board. If you prefer a different method, that’s fine—feel free to write your own guide. This guide is free, and no one is forcing you to buy our stuff.

Jeff Suovanen -

This is a beautiful teardown guide—but totally unnecessary if you just need to replace the battery. I was able to do so on a MBP mid 2014 15” just by passing a piece of mason’s twine under each section of the battery to cut the adhesive, which is really just double-sided tape. The remainder peeled off easily with a flat spudger. No solvent needed. I would have bought the battery and tools from iFixit but they wouldn’t ship to my location so I had to buy a battery on eBay. Works great. Total time around 20 minutes and no risky teardown of all those tiny fragile components, and no need to remove the logic board.

upcountry - Reply

I used this guide, as I always do for dismantling Apple products, to replace an inflated battery. If you have this issue, its still easy to do with a couple of minor differences. #1 - you’ll make life easier if you put some of the adhesive remover on the ends of the cards as you begin to remove the 4 middle batteries. Because the batteries are bloated, the edges (while more exposed) will require a bit more push to get underneath. And #2 - you cannot get the solvent in the middle of the 2 center batteries in most cases. This is where #1 comes in as you can get the adhesive remover into the exposed sides to allow the solvent to do its job. All in all, thats all that I needed to do in order replace my bloated battery with the new one. It works great!

Brad Stossel - Reply

Le kit complet et le tutoriel sont parfaits. Démontage et remontage en 1 h 30, sans soucis ni frayeur. Mais bien entendu, suivre strictement pas à pas ce tutoriel, aucune image n’est inutile !!!

Luc-Henri Fage - Reply

I just completed the battery replacement in my mid 2014 Macbook Pro retina with a bulging battery. I pretty much followed Marino Pagan’s suggestion from 07/06/2017! The video: gives you the basics, but I have a few suggestions.

1. Use the type of string shown in the video. Even with the bulging battery I had no issue getting the thicker string under each battery.

2. Don’t just pull both sides of string towards you really hard like shown in the video. I used a long piece of string and pulled somewhat gently from one side at a time, and towards the front at like a 45 degree angle. I pulled the string to one side, leaving enough to grab and pull back the other way. By alternating from side to side like this, the friction of the string and the minor amount of pull towards the front did all the work.

3. You have to do the same thing on the middle two batteries as well! The video cuts off with the poster not knowing what to do about them. Do the same string thing!

craig - Reply

Thorough easy to follow instructions. Thanks!

Melkamu Agonafer - Reply

I’ve completed the installation. I’ve stand in doubt if i should take the short way from the youtube ( that one without removing all parts). But i decided to play it safe, and done it like in this article, wit only one minor change. At Step 30, it’s said to remove magsafe connector, which it’s very hard to remove it, much simpler is to unscrew the magsafe entirely.

So, everything was ok. Thanks for the tutorial

manoleb - Reply

I just completed the install. I used the steps provided in this write up and experienced no hang ups. Install took about 2 very cautious hours and included a nice cleaning of the case following the removal of the Logic Board and Battery. Hoping for another 4 years with this computer - thanks Ifixit!

Timothy Baber - Reply

I’m about to embark on this marathon job, but I was wondering, for those of you who have a bloated battery, what is your cycle count at the time of needing to replace the battery. I use mine with it plugged into AC power most of the time, so I’m not charging discharging on a regular basis. My cycle count is only 113, when the battery should theoretically support up to a 1000. I’ve had my machine from new in Nov 2014, so its just over 4 years old. Is a bloated battery caused by low cycle count? Thanks.

Plastikfan - Reply

…. I should also note that as I don’t use the inbuilt track much, it took a long while to notice the bloating battery. It was probably boated at least a year ago, because I noticed that the click of the trackpad wasn’t as precise as it should be but I ignored it for some time.

Plastikfan - Reply

Did the upgrade last weekend. I can confirm the method with the twisted nylon utility line worked for me best. No need to remove all parts and no need to use any dis-solvent.

1. Watch the youtube videos how to place and pull the line

2. Discharge the batteries completely to be safe.

3. Work slowly and carefully without bending the batteries.

4. Once removed, clean the surface with IPA and place the new batteries in place

Took me around 2 hours in total and new batteries are working fine. Thanks iFixit!

niki1999 - Reply

Is there a case for this guideline to be updated and dramatically reduced to use the string method as shown on youtube rather than dismantling the entire machine and incurring all the risks that entails?

Plastikfan - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 126

Past 7 Days: 745

Past 30 Days: 3,267

All Time: 36,203