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Unbricking partially updated controllers ¶ 

If your controller gets disconnected during a firmware update, these steps may recover your controller.

Recovery Notes:

  • This must be done over USB
  • Use a known good USB cable for this procedure. If you are not sure if your cables will work for this procedure, purchase a new cable to avoid problems.
  • ALWAYS use USB for firmware updates. NEVER update your controller over wireless.
  • A Xbox One console or Windows 10 PC is required.
  • Xbox One only. Not required for PC recovery. You will need at least one functional controller for navigation purposes. As long as the primary buttons are working (A/B/Y/X, analog sticks and D-Pad), the controller will suffice.
  • There is no guarantee your controller is recoverable. While the chance of recovery is very good, it is not 100% successful.

Steps for recovery

  • Step 1: In order to ensure there is no residual power left in the controller, let the controller sit without batteries for 24 hours. The controller cannot have any reserve power or this will not work.
  • Step 2: Plug the controller into a Xbox One or Windows 10 PC. Note: If you do not use a Windows 10 PC, the controller will be listed as a "Controller Update" device and fail installation. The controller will not install in Controller Update mode on other OSes.

Windows 10

  • Step 1: Log into a Microsoft account and download the "Xbox Accessories" app from the Microsoft Store.
  • Step 2: Plug the controller into your Windows 10 PC.
  • Step 3: Click Update required in the Xbox Accessories app. Let this firmware update run.

Once you do this, the controller should be functional again.

Xbox One

  • Step 1: Navigate to the Devices and Accessories app on your Xbox One console. You will need to use the working controller to get to this menu.
  • Step 2: Once are are in the Devices and Accessories app, find your bricked controller. Tip: Look for "Plugged in" or remove the batteries for identification purposes.
  • Step 3: Re-run the firmware upgrade. Note: Your first recovery attempt may not be successful. If you have trouble the first time, try again until your controller accepts the firmware.

Once you do this, the controller should be functional again.

Disclaimer ¶ 

Parts of this Wiki are borrowed from the original Wiki. I have made an effort to individualize it by adding new information and changing some wording.

Troubleshooting ¶ 

If your controller has an issue, refer to the Xbox One Wireless Controller 1537 Troubleshooting guide.

Note: The Model 1697 controller is a cost reduced Model 1537 with an integrated headphone jack. The 1537 troubleshooting guide does not cover the headphone jack, since this was not present on the old controller.

Background and Identification ¶ 

The Xbox One Wireless Controller Model 1697 can be quickly identified by the presence of a 3.5mm headphone jack on the controller. This is the primary difference between the 1537 and 1697 controller. The controller can also be identified by the label under the battery compartment, positively identifying the controller as a Model 1697 controller.

Shared features between models 1537 and 1697:

  • The Start and Back buttons found on the 360 controller have been replaced with the Menu and View buttons, respectively.
  • The triggers on the Xbox One controller have been mounted with individual rumble motors to enhance the gaming experience.
  • The Xbox button now glows white when the controller is switched on.
  • The standard color of the controller is black. Although most controllers are black, Microsoft released many limited edition controllers.
  • The X, Y, B, and A buttons are the only colored parts of the controller.
  • The controller also features a micro-USB cable at the top of the controller to enable charging while plugged into the console and connecting for use with a computer.

Features that have changed include:

  • The controller now features a 3.5mm headphone jack, which makes the headset adapter optional. With the headphone jack integrated into the controller, you no longer need to use the headset adapter to use 3rd headsets (these generally use 3.5mm plugs, which necessitated the headset adapter). Note: While the headset adapter is no longer required, it can still be used if you prefer it over software menus.
  • The thumb sticks feature a thicker texture on the edges of the analog stick, compared to the previous controller.

PC use (General information) ¶ 

This controller is a very popular choice for PC gaming, since it works with the most games out of the box on Windows. While it is a popular choice, it does not work with DirectInput games.

The Xbox One Controller is known to fail installation without manually installing the driver manually in Windows 7 in most scenarios. Since this happens so frequently, it is recommend that you download the driver and manually install it to fix this issue if you are running Windows 7. It may be a good idea to do this for Windows 8.x if you want to make sure it works, but you likely do not have to do this unless it's clear you will have issues relying on a Windows Update driver download. Windows 10 comes with the drivers built into the OS, so the issue is no longer present in Windows 10.

If you have problems in Windows 7 or 8.x, these are your options to fix the problem:

  • Option one: Use Device manager

If you want the latest version of the driver out of the gate, you will need to get it from Device Manager. You will likely need administrative permissions for this, but this is the easiest solution to get your controller working.

  • Option 2: Download the driver for manual installation

If you wish to keep a local copy that needs to be updated so you do not have to rely on Microsoft having a copy, you can download a copy of the driver from Microsoft or a 3rd party source with an .exe version of the driver.

For a newer local copy, look at these links:

PC connectivity (Windows 7/8.x/10) ¶ 

Note: Bluetooth is not supported. You will need the 1708 controller and Windows 10 to use Bluetooth.

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