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Need to turn off passlock

Hi, all. The passlock feature on my truck engages occasionally without cause, making me sit and wait out the 10-minute delay. This is always inconvenient and has the potential for being a safety hazard. Does anyone have an idea for how I can permanently disable this feature?

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Hello fellow Colorado owners. Would just like you to know that I, along with many others, am having the same problem with the passlock system. It has become aggravating as well as very inconvenient! I called the Chevrolet Assistance Line for advice on how to go about bypassing the passlock system.. They advised that I should not try this, and should take it to a dealership. I asked to speak with someone in the engineering department to no avail. I told them that this is a design flaw and does not work as intended and that many other people are having the same problem.. So I think if enough people called to complain, they might consider an open recall. After all, this is a design flaw and I feel GM should be responsible for correcting it as they would any other design flaw in any of their models. This is definitely an issue. It could even be considered a safety issue. For those who are willing to call here is the number. 1-800-222-1020 (US) or 1-800-263-3777 (CANADA)

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I called the Chevy 800 number and explained the circumstances surrounding the intermittent starting problem with my 2007 Chevy Colorado. The lady who answered was probably in India from her accent and all she could do was refer me to the local Chevy dealership where I had already been. No help whatsoever. I had no idea that this has been a problem with Chevy trucks for so long and will never buy another Chevy truck since they are unreliable and the company is in denial. What planet are they on?

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Idk if anyone else has called to have the brake light recall on there colorado i had it done on my 08 colorado 2 weeks ago and have not had this passlock no start problem since if you think about it all this is related seeing as it goes through the body control module just something to give a shot seeing as its a free recall

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Just for the future reference of others, regarding the brake light switch--it is not technically a recall. It was a special extended warranty part through GM, and that warranty expired in late 2014. So don't go to the dealership expecting to get a free replacement at this point like I did (even after calling to confirm and getting false information). They'll charge you around $80 to replace the switch. You can order the part for around $10 and install it yourself or find a mechanic for much cheaper. Takes about 10 minutes for someone who knows how to install it. Cheers.

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I can't deal with this anymore. Every morning I have to wait 10- 15 minutes to get the my truck started. Sometime I got late to work because of this stupid issue. How can I solve this problem?

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Wow, it looks like there is a whole industry built around defeating the passlock. There are a few commercial devices like this one. There is even a DIY plan for sale that they say can defeat the passlock; GM will not disable it. The only other way that I've read about is the "White/blue" method. ;-)

Step One: Start the truck, leaving it in park, and running during this process.

Step Two: Locate the plug pictured below, The plug is under the dash near the steering column. Open your driver door and stick your head on the floor near the gas and brake pedal and look up, it will be the big white plug staring you in the face. If you need anymore help let me know. You will notice that on the side closest to the front seats, the plug is pretty much split in two. We will be working with the right side of this plug. We are looking for the wire that is White with a BLUE stripe. It will be with other wires that are white/colored stripe.

Step Three: Cut this wire in half, and electrical tape both ends.

Step four: Shut off the truck, You’re done!

Try restarting it, you will see the red security light on, but that can be removed with the LED mod how to.

Check on here for more info. Hope this helps, good luck.

UPDATE

Images are from the same site as the link and credit to the guys at coloradofans.com as well as an interesting schematic that may offer more of a permanent solution.

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Do you by any chance have a better picture of the blue/white plug? And from what I read if I have to replace the battery I have to reconnect the wire to start the truck and break the connection again. Is this correct?

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Just a wild suggestion, how about mounting a toggle switch next to the blue plug and just switch it on when you need to?

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It sure does appear that way. I think a toggle switch would be a great choice. I think that you will have to use it once the codes are cleared i.e. a battery change or any other major power interruption. Turn it of until you need to reset the computer. rj713, it's a white/blue wire that goes to the connector....

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OK I like the idea of the toggle switch--give me a couple of days to get the parts and check locations. I'll let you know how it comes out.

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Sorry it took so long to try. Thanks again, Ralph.

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Hey GM I have a great idea. I install systems in buildings and the security system can be programed several ways. it appears that the passkey system "FAIL OFF", meaning that if anything goes wrong with the system that it turns the system off. a lot of these cars and trucks are past ten years old and are now at the bottom of there blue book price, Really who is going to steal this old ride with 200k miles. Our systems can be set to fail on, meaning that it knows the time and year in the ECM unit so why not "FAIL ON" when it goes bad, why off. Give us a light the says security fail. The programmer had the option to turn it off or turn it on. all it would do on your 1995+ is let you drive it till you decide to get a new ride or fix the security system.

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Did u ever fix it I got a 2000 Saturn ls1 I'm having problems with it not starting it's not the fuel pump the relay is clicking I'm thinking it's something to do with my srs because it won't start at all it turns

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The easiest way to bypass the Passlock 2 system is to place a resistor between the passlock sensing wire and the ground reference wire. To find these wires, look for three wires that at some point are wrapped together, coming from the ignition barrel. Usually, they are orange/black, red/white, and black. They can also be yellow, red/white, and black.

Here's how you do it:

Cut the orange/black wire or the yellow wire, depending on what you have. Strip both ends of the wire, so you can reconnect them if needed. Next you must strip some of the insulation away from the black wire, exposing the copper inside. Now grab a reliable multimeter and set it to read Ohms. stick one probe into the exposed copper in the black wire, being careful not to touch it during the resistance test you are about to do.

Hold the other probe to the ignition side of the wire you cut in the earlier step. While doing this, crank the starter and note the resistance reading you get on the multimeter.

Next, arrange one or more resistors in a chain so that they add up to the value measured while cranking the starter. You can be within about 5% of the value, and it will be accepted by the passlock system as genuine.

Once you have assembled the resistors so they represent the correct value, tightly wrap one end of the resistor through and around the exposed copper of the black wire. You may solder this connection if you desire. Protect this wire by taping over the exposed metal.

Now you take the cut wire that leads toward the Passlock module (NOT toward the ignition barrel) and connect the other end of the resistor to this wire, being sure to tape it to protect against shorting. Once that is done, be sure to tape the exposed cut wire that leads to the ignition barrel.

If you have performed these steps correctly, your Passlock system will no longer give you any problems!

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is there any pictures of the three wire connector that goes to the ignition switch that controls the passlock system?

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I has the same problem.... I found out though that my AUX PWR fuse was blown and problem fixed... Although i did try the white and blue wire... Once cut... It didnt start.... Put it back together and it worked.... Took the new Aux Pwr fuse out and it didnt start again... Put it back in and problem was fixed and havent had a problem since. Hope this was helpful enough

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Hello people I have read the several fixes here on the forum but I don't like cutting wires just to make it work it kind of half @%^ to me. Anyway after poking around the dealers and asking questions they told me unfortunately there is no recall on this reoccurring problem of passlock lock out on my truck. So they told me to just buy the key ignition housing that has all the new components to the ignition including the passlock system inside. So I bought the new housing plus a bolt that you have to buy and went to my mechanic to install it plus programming of the new system in which they knew how to do it. Anyway my mechanic was way cheaper than what the dealer quoted to do the job about a few hundred dollars less. After they installed the new ignition housing with all the new components plus programming everything works great now no more false indicator chiming from my truck which indicateds that there is a problem with the system, that's when my truck just will not start for 10mins. For now I call I fixed.

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Just started having a problem that i believe is related to the passlock system. My security light came on last week for a few hrs. Then, twice, afew day apart, when u turn ignition key, fuel pump comes on, but will crank. I jumped starter and cranked engine, but it wont fire. Then, about 15-20 mins of trying, it will start right up.

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Btw, its a 2002 Trailblazer.

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hola poseo una chevy colorado 2.9 2007 me tiraba el "candadito" segui los pasos del transportista sin gastar dinero

1-llevar llave 2° posision,

2-esperar a que desaparezcan los logos [ #] -[#]-[#]-[#] del la pantalla sonara un "clic" bajo el capot ponga atención al clic ok.

3- dar arranque

paciencia¡¡¡¡¡

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Hola Luis

tengo el mismo problema

a que te refieres seguir los pasos del transportista, me podrias ayudar?

este es mi mail die.poblete@gmail.com

saludos

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We did our wire clip a couple of years ago, no trouble since then until the other day. My four wheel was glitchy so I took it in and he did some resetting via his computer thingie, when he was rechecking he decided to put it into 4L and after that it wouldn't start at all. We went to the shop and re-wired the cut wire and it started fine. After reading some of the above comments about a toggle we did that as well once we brought the truck home. Now the only issue I am having is it won't lock the doors. I have to check if the inside manual locking buttons will work and if the key will unlock fine without setting off the annoying honking.

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Don't you think GM is making millions off this fault ? Of those that find a fix at : http://newrockies.com/ there are hundreds that just shrug and tell the dealership to go ahead. Others trash the vehicle if it's over 15 years old. I found out Mercedes and VW have an ABS module built for them in China or Philippines for $27.00 and charge customers from $800.00 and up for it. It's a plug n play module.

Don't you think GM does similar ? If you can buy a lap top for $250.00 or iPhone with all it's circuitry, a GM VATS module has got to be less than $50.00 to build. It's about time some authority looked into the ripp off prices manufacturers charge for electronics.

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BTW...the tip about the VATS resistor is not a fix for future problems with GM's VATS. The resistor does not get rid of the problematic VATS system. If the VATS module fails to operate in the future, your engine will not start.

I have no monetary connection with the suppliers of the http://newrockies.com/ VATS by-pass system and receive no reward from them. I just like to see information getting to owners and not money to GM for something GM need to recall and update.

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In High School we had annual event or having the students smashing the vehicle with sledge hammers. In this case, the event should highlight the Passcode 2 system as the only thing wrong with the vehicle and is has the potential of being a safety issue from the no start problem. Make sure you can find every press, social media and local officials there to witness the event. Also, make signs saying why the vehicle is being destroyed, and pass them out! Give all the money raised to the families who have lost their lives die to this passcode 2 /ignition problem.

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I bypassed the passkey BS on my 03 s10 and went threw the 40plus minute relearn crap and it wouldnt start. Then i figured out that maybe the battery had wore down due to the lights being on that long now the ecm is stuck in the learn loop and ...well im stuck and cant get out. Lol

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Good day to you all too.... I had the same personal problem with my Chevy.... I when an bought a new key switch an reset the computer an I never gave that problem again...

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I cleaned my battery post...the problem went away. Try it.

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Mine is a 2008 Chevy Colorado.

People this is happening with many models of Chevy and even Hummers. It is that Passlock needs to be relearned. Key turned on then try to start but don't let it, just crank it. Turn off for 5 seconds then Leave in ON position for 10 min, crank it but not start it...then off for 5 seconds, then do the 10 minutes in ON position again then off...crank it...off for 5 seconds and ON position again for 10 min then off, then crank it and off for 5 seconds then ON for 10 minutes then off. Wait for lights to clear then START ( WATCH YOU TUBE VIDEOS)

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/searc...

A little over 30 minutes and this relearns the PASSLOCK.

Watch Youtube on these techniques. Again this is happening with Impala, HHR, Colorado, Canyons, and a few others.

The other option is to turn the PASSLOCK off. Use the radio to do this. Key on, press volume till readout says SETTINGS then scroll to the Security to toggle off by pressing reset ( watch YOUTUBE). I personally see no sense of having no security system so try the RELEARN method.

Other thing is that the Ignition Switch has a Sensor on it and the wire clip comes loose. You can replace or try to wedge something in there to keep it from moving around.

Also, there is a YouTube where the guy opens driver door, puts key in, car beeps the key chime fast, then turns the key to ON position and the Chime slows and the lights go off on Dash....then start the car.

Works every time he says.

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I have been told by Dealer this is a sensor inside the ignition or a module that controls the sensor.

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Please file a complaint online with NTSB. It allows you in great detail...to describe exactly what symptoms you are particular experiencing.

If all of us do this it forces them to enforce GM to remedy this dangerous problem.

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I installed a new ignition which has a wired switch at the end of the barrel (2 screws) and a couple wires sleeved to a snap clip. Easy to just take off new ignition and put it on the end of existing ignition barrel and so far I'm not having this passcode lockout issue anymore. Been 3 weeks now.

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I've been having this problem on my 02 Silverado for about 10 years. A few years ago, I bypassed the ignition cylinder by hard wiring in some resistors,and "teaching" them to the BCM; this worked fine for about 2 years until the unit would randomly drop the code. I thought I had the hot lick by getting another BCM off eBay for $20 shipped. Installed the new BCM, and relearned via the 10 min. procedure 5x to no avail- no start. I was talking to a high performance friend and he found the stupidest fix I could ever dream of on a software website. The post included the following procedure: Get in the car, shut the door, ignition on, ignition off, window down, window up, lock, unlock... The blasted thing started immediately! I was flabbergasted to say the least.

On a sidebar: I am playing with a 2002 3800 Series II v6 transplant into my 85 Pontiac Bonneville. The engine came from an 02 Firebird equipped with what I now know as Passkey 2 or 3 (resistor in key, to BCM, to PCM). I have now learned that the PCM also shuts off the injectors as well as the fuel pump. This is done via the Fuel Enable circuit to the PCM. It can be duplicated with a 5v 50hz sine wave on Passlock systems which is probably all the newrockies device does. My v6 PCM did not have the option to ignore the VATS or Fuel Enable circuit, so I had to wire in the BCM. Unplugging it while running will fool the PCM until permanent pwored is removed, at which point, the signal needs to be resent.

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rj713 will be eternally grateful.
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