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Need to turn off passlock

Hi, all. The passlock feature on my truck engages occasionally without cause, making me sit and wait out the 10-minute delay. This is always inconvenient and has the potential for being a safety hazard. Does anyone have an idea for how I can permanently disable this feature?

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Hello fellow Colorado owners. Would just like you to know that I, along with many others, am having the same problem with the passlock system. It has become aggravating as well as very inconvenient! I called the Chevrolet Assistance Line for advice on how to go about bypassing the passlock system.. They advised that I should not try this, and should take it to a dealership. I asked to speak with someone in the engineering department to no avail. I told them that this is a design flaw and does not work as intended and that many other people are having the same problem.. So I think if enough people called to complain, they might consider an open recall. After all, this is a design flaw and I feel GM should be responsible for correcting it as they would any other design flaw in any of their models. This is definitely an issue. It could even be considered a safety issue. For those who are willing to call here is the number. 1-800-222-1020 (US) or 1-800-263-3777 (CANADA)

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I called the Chevy 800 number and explained the circumstances surrounding the intermittent starting problem with my 2007 Chevy Colorado. The lady who answered was probably in India from her accent and all she could do was refer me to the local Chevy dealership where I had already been. No help whatsoever. I had no idea that this has been a problem with Chevy trucks for so long and will never buy another Chevy truck since they are unreliable and the company is in denial. What planet are they on?

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Idk if anyone else has called to have the brake light recall on there colorado i had it done on my 08 colorado 2 weeks ago and have not had this passlock no start problem since if you think about it all this is related seeing as it goes through the body control module just something to give a shot seeing as its a free recall

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Just for the future reference of others, regarding the brake light switch--it is not technically a recall. It was a special extended warranty part through GM, and that warranty expired in late 2014. So don't go to the dealership expecting to get a free replacement at this point like I did (even after calling to confirm and getting false information). They'll charge you around $80 to replace the switch. You can order the part for around $10 and install it yourself or find a mechanic for much cheaper. Takes about 10 minutes for someone who knows how to install it. Cheers.

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I can't deal with this anymore. Every morning I have to wait 10- 15 minutes to get the my truck started. Sometime I got late to work because of this stupid issue. How can I solve this problem?

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Wow, it looks like there is a whole industry built around defeating the passlock. There are a few commercial devices like this one. There is even a DIY plan for sale that they say can defeat the passlock; GM will not disable it. The only other way that I've read about is the "White/blue" method. ;-)

Step One: Start the truck, leaving it in park, and running during this process.

Step Two: Locate the plug pictured below, The plug is under the dash near the steering column. Open your driver door and stick your head on the floor near the gas and brake pedal and look up, it will be the big white plug staring you in the face. If you need anymore help let me know. You will notice that on the side closest to the front seats, the plug is pretty much split in two. We will be working with the right side of this plug. We are looking for the wire that is White with a BLUE stripe. It will be with other wires that are white/colored stripe.

Step Three: Cut this wire in half, and electrical tape both ends.

Step four: Shut off the truck, You’re done!

Try restarting it, you will see the red security light on, but that can be removed with the LED mod how to.

Check on here for more info. Hope this helps, good luck.

UPDATE

Images are from the same site as the link and credit to the guys at coloradofans.com as well as an interesting schematic that may offer more of a permanent solution.

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Do you by any chance have a better picture of the blue/white plug? And from what I read if I have to replace the battery I have to reconnect the wire to start the truck and break the connection again. Is this correct?

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Just a wild suggestion, how about mounting a toggle switch next to the blue plug and just switch it on when you need to?

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It sure does appear that way. I think a toggle switch would be a great choice. I think that you will have to use it once the codes are cleared i.e. a battery change or any other major power interruption. Turn it of until you need to reset the computer. rj713, it's a white/blue wire that goes to the connector....

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OK I like the idea of the toggle switch--give me a couple of days to get the parts and check locations. I'll let you know how it comes out.

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Sorry it took so long to try. Thanks again, Ralph.

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Hey GM I have a great idea. I install systems in buildings and the security system can be programed several ways. it appears that the passkey system "FAIL OFF", meaning that if anything goes wrong with the system that it turns the system off. a lot of these cars and trucks are past ten years old and are now at the bottom of there blue book price, Really who is going to steal this old ride with 200k miles. Our systems can be set to fail on, meaning that it knows the time and year in the ECM unit so why not "FAIL ON" when it goes bad, why off. Give us a light the says security fail. The programmer had the option to turn it off or turn it on. all it would do on your 1995+ is let you drive it till you decide to get a new ride or fix the security system.

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Did u ever fix it I got a 2000 Saturn ls1 I'm having problems with it not starting it's not the fuel pump the relay is clicking I'm thinking it's something to do with my srs because it won't start at all it turns

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The easiest way to bypass the Passlock 2 system is to place a resistor between the passlock sensing wire and the ground reference wire. To find these wires, look for three wires that at some point are wrapped together, coming from the ignition barrel. Usually, they are orange/black, red/white, and black. They can also be yellow, red/white, and black.

Here's how you do it:

Cut the orange/black wire or the yellow wire, depending on what you have. Strip both ends of the wire, so you can reconnect them if needed. Next you must strip some of the insulation away from the black wire, exposing the copper inside. Now grab a reliable multimeter and set it to read Ohms. stick one probe into the exposed copper in the black wire, being careful not to touch it during the resistance test you are about to do.

Hold the other probe to the ignition side of the wire you cut in the earlier step. While doing this, crank the starter and note the resistance reading you get on the multimeter.

Next, arrange one or more resistors in a chain so that they add up to the value measured while cranking the starter. You can be within about 5% of the value, and it will be accepted by the passlock system as genuine.

Once you have assembled the resistors so they represent the correct value, tightly wrap one end of the resistor through and around the exposed copper of the black wire. You may solder this connection if you desire. Protect this wire by taping over the exposed metal.

Now you take the cut wire that leads toward the Passlock module (NOT toward the ignition barrel) and connect the other end of the resistor to this wire, being sure to tape it to protect against shorting. Once that is done, be sure to tape the exposed cut wire that leads to the ignition barrel.

If you have performed these steps correctly, your Passlock system will no longer give you any problems!

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is there any pictures of the three wire connector that goes to the ignition switch that controls the passlock system?

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Mine is a 2008 Chevy Colorado.

People this is happening with many models of Chevy and even Hummers. It is that Passlock needs to be relearned. Key turned on then try to start but don't let it, just crank it. Turn off for 5 seconds then Leave in ON position for 10 min, crank it but not start it...then off for 5 seconds, then do the 10 minutes in ON position again then off...crank it...off for 5 seconds and ON position again for 10 min then off, then crank it and off for 5 seconds then ON for 10 minutes then off. Wait for lights to clear then START ( WATCH YOU TUBE VIDEOS)

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/searc...

A little over 30 minutes and this relearns the PASSLOCK.

Watch Youtube on these techniques. Again this is happening with Impala, HHR, Colorado, Canyons, and a few others.

The other option is to turn the PASSLOCK off. Use the radio to do this. Key on, press volume till readout says SETTINGS then scroll to the Security to toggle off by pressing reset ( watch YOUTUBE). I personally see no sense of having no security system so try the RELEARN method.

Other thing is that the Ignition Switch has a Sensor on it and the wire clip comes loose. You can replace or try to wedge something in there to keep it from moving around.

Also, there is a YouTube where the guy opens driver door, puts key in, car beeps the key chime fast, then turns the key to ON position and the Chime slows and the lights go off on Dash....then start the car.

Works every time he says.

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I have been told by Dealer this is a sensor inside the ignition or a module that controls the sensor.

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Please file a complaint online with NTSB. It allows you in great detail...to describe exactly what symptoms you are particular experiencing.

If all of us do this it forces them to enforce GM to remedy this dangerous problem.

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I installed a new ignition which has a wired switch at the end of the barrel (2 screws) and a couple wires sleeved to a snap clip. Easy to just take off new ignition and put it on the end of existing ignition barrel and so far I'm not having this passcode lockout issue anymore. Been 3 weeks now.

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It has been 4 months now and by installing the wire harness on the end of the ignition barrel (or replace the whole ignition but you don't have to) it starts every time AND my transmission slip is gone! So it wasn't a slip, but a jerk sort of thing. To me that means the engine was probably misfiring while driving and it felt like the transmission. Point is..this passlock thing is tied along with other electronic fails and by replacing the wire connection on the end of ignition barrel inside steering column both my problems are permanently fixed.

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California Dudeman? Is there any pic's, step by step to follow when doing this repair. I am a little afraid of the electronic tampering without some type of instruction. I have a 2001 Tahoe and I'm at my wits end with this thing. It seems to happen every day in the afternoon almost the same time. I really the the manufacture should be responsible, but we all know that they will never admit guilt. Also what part of California are you in? Thanks again.

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I has the same problem.... I found out though that my AUX PWR fuse was blown and problem fixed... Although i did try the white and blue wire... Once cut... It didnt start.... Put it back together and it worked.... Took the new Aux Pwr fuse out and it didnt start again... Put it back in and problem was fixed and havent had a problem since. Hope this was helpful enough

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where is that aux power fuse located

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After dealing with this off and on for over two years, it finally became a daily issue and I got it to the dealership where they said they could finally replicate the problem. They replaced the ignition switch and I have had no issue for two weeks now.

I chatted via direct messages to two different Chevy customer care Twitter accounts with little to no help.

They know it is an issue but are reluctant to do anything.

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I have been dealing with this for years....I always used my original key, well 1 day I grabbed my close to unused "spare" key. Problem solved, haven't had the issue again. If you don't have a spare key, order a new key from the dealer, don't let them just cut 1 from your original!

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At the end of the ignition barrel inside the steering column is a black cap held by 2 screws. Replace that. It is the best repair for all these electric problems. Also be sure to file a complaint at NTSB.

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Could you please share where I can purchase a replacement for my 05 impala please?

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Hello people I have read the several fixes here on the forum but I don't like cutting wires just to make it work it kind of half @%^ to me. Anyway after poking around the dealers and asking questions they told me unfortunately there is no recall on this reoccurring problem of passlock lock out on my truck. So they told me to just buy the key ignition housing that has all the new components to the ignition including the passlock system inside. So I bought the new housing plus a bolt that you have to buy and went to my mechanic to install it plus programming of the new system in which they knew how to do it. Anyway my mechanic was way cheaper than what the dealer quoted to do the job about a few hundred dollars less. After they installed the new ignition housing with all the new components plus programming everything works great now no more false indicator chiming from my truck which indicateds that there is a problem with the system, that's when my truck just will not start for 10mins. For now I call I fixed.

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Just started having a problem that i believe is related to the passlock system. My security light came on last week for a few hrs. Then, twice, afew day apart, when u turn ignition key, fuel pump comes on, but will crank. I jumped starter and cranked engine, but it wont fire. Then, about 15-20 mins of trying, it will start right up.

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Btw, its a 2002 Trailblazer.

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I have a Chevy Astro van I watched you tube on bypass security code it work but few weeks later problem return now with security light stays on have tried multiple key relert now truck only start but shuts back off purchase refurbished passlock module can someone please give me any suggestions it will be greatly appreciated

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hola poseo una chevy colorado 2.9 2007 me tiraba el "candadito" segui los pasos del transportista sin gastar dinero

1-llevar llave 2° posision,

2-esperar a que desaparezcan los logos [ #] -[#]-[#]-[#] del la pantalla sonara un "clic" bajo el capot ponga atención al clic ok.

3- dar arranque

paciencia¡¡¡¡¡

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We did our wire clip a couple of years ago, no trouble since then until the other day. My four wheel was glitchy so I took it in and he did some resetting via his computer thingie, when he was rechecking he decided to put it into 4L and after that it wouldn't start at all. We went to the shop and re-wired the cut wire and it started fine. After reading some of the above comments about a toggle we did that as well once we brought the truck home. Now the only issue I am having is it won't lock the doors. I have to check if the inside manual locking buttons will work and if the key will unlock fine without setting off the annoying honking.

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Don't you think GM is making millions off this fault ? Of those that find a fix at : http://newrockies.com/ there are hundreds that just shrug and tell the dealership to go ahead. Others trash the vehicle if it's over 15 years old. I found out Mercedes and VW have an ABS module built for them in China or Philippines for $27.00 and charge customers from $800.00 and up for it. It's a plug n play module.

Don't you think GM does similar ? If you can buy a lap top for $250.00 or iPhone with all it's circuitry, a GM VATS module has got to be less than $50.00 to build. It's about time some authority looked into the ripp off prices manufacturers charge for electronics.

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BTW...the tip about the VATS resistor is not a fix for future problems with GM's VATS. The resistor does not get rid of the problematic VATS system. If the VATS module fails to operate in the future, your engine will not start.

I have no monetary connection with the suppliers of the http://newrockies.com/ VATS by-pass system and receive no reward from them. I just like to see information getting to owners and not money to GM for something GM need to recall and update.

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In High School we had annual event or having the students smashing the vehicle with sledge hammers. In this case, the event should highlight the Passcode 2 system as the only thing wrong with the vehicle and is has the potential of being a safety issue from the no start problem. Make sure you can find every press, social media and local officials there to witness the event. Also, make signs saying why the vehicle is being destroyed, and pass them out! Give all the money raised to the families who have lost their lives die to this passcode 2 /ignition problem.

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I bypassed the passkey BS on my 03 s10 and went threw the 40plus minute relearn crap and it wouldnt start. Then i figured out that maybe the battery had wore down due to the lights being on that long now the ecm is stuck in the learn loop and ...well im stuck and cant get out. Lol

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Good day to you all too.... I had the same personal problem with my Chevy.... I when an bought a new key switch an reset the computer an I never gave that problem again...

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We have a 2004 Colorado, we have had 5 years, and it has done this ever since we got it, I hate waiting the 10 min and sometimes you have to wait a couple of 10 minutes. we took it to the Chevy place today and they told us it was the whole ignition switch housing module, they said it will cost around 400. to fix it. I sure hope it does.

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I cleaned my battery post...the problem went away. Try it.

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I've been having this problem on my 02 Silverado for about 10 years. A few years ago, I bypassed the ignition cylinder by hard wiring in some resistors,and "teaching" them to the BCM; this worked fine for about 2 years until the unit would randomly drop the code. I thought I had the hot lick by getting another BCM off eBay for $20 shipped. Installed the new BCM, and relearned via the 10 min. procedure 5x to no avail- no start. I was talking to a high performance friend and he found the stupidest fix I could ever dream of on a software website. The post included the following procedure: Get in the car, shut the door, ignition on, ignition off, window down, window up, lock, unlock... The blasted thing started immediately! I was flabbergasted to say the least.

On a sidebar: I am playing with a 2002 3800 Series II v6 transplant into my 85 Pontiac Bonneville. The engine came from an 02 Firebird equipped with what I now know as Passkey 2 or 3 (resistor in key, to BCM, to PCM). I have now learned that the PCM also shuts off the injectors as well as the fuel pump. This is done via the Fuel Enable circuit to the PCM. It can be duplicated with a 5v 50hz sine wave on Passlock systems which is probably all the newrockies device does. My v6 PCM did not have the option to ignore the VATS or Fuel Enable circuit, so I had to wire in the BCM. Unplugging it while running will fool the PCM until permanent pwored is removed, at which point, the signal needs to be resent.

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I have a 2007 GMC Canyon pu that has this issue, Passlock System malfunction like everyone else, after 5 or 6 good starts, then the system shuts down, got to wait the 10 minutes, then she'll start right up again. I took it to the GMC Dealership and they said it will cost $835.00 to fix it. After reading all your remarks, I know now what the problem is for sure, and going to investagate thoroughly on recommendations in solving this problem with GMC. Wish me luck to get a Recall done here quickly..... Daymon

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This issue is not limited to just your vehicles, and not just in the States. I live in Canada and drive a GM Envoy with a PKIII system on it. Recently I have had the same problems you all are having. I had it towed to a repair shop to have the system "reprogrammed"-because everything I tried didn't work-and its been fine for the past two weeks, up until tonight. Tried to crank it, didn't work, waited. Started for a bit then I had to get out to go back into the store, came back out, it wouldn't start again. Finally got it working so I made it home. Its MINUS 30 below zero here tonight......and I was stuck in the cold with a vehicle that would not work. Not cool. I've emailed the stealership saying I want a solution, and not have to fork out tons of money replacing parts that will just fail again. I'm willing to have the whole thing bypassed, I'm not going to mess around with this. Has anyone thought of making noise about this on Social Media to make GM sit up and take notice? Petitions?

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Im having this same problem cant i hard wire my fuel pump to my accsourey fuse so when my ignition spins over the fuel pump amd it should stay running shoukd it not ?

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Hey guys my passlock seems to have a different effect on the 2007 Chevy Colorado. It disables the fuel injectors and doesn't allow the truck to start at all... it will crank and show you just how amazing the battery and starter are, but without gas you're just spinning your starter and draining your battery... you are All going to have to just stop being cheap tho. The doorman model of the ignition lock cylinder comes with a Passlock system and I'm pretty certain it doesn't need to be programmed on this particular model. I have the 4x4, 5 cylinder, crew cab. The part is 80$ and I would suggest a mechanic install over a 100$ an hour shop to save some money but i know not every one has one. I am buying the part asap and will update this as I learn more...

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Hi, I am I have a 2000 Chev 3500HD it was given to me from my dad last yr.. I spent $1200 making it safe to drive back to Canada and it did fine. even towed my old truck back

once I got home for a Cpl months I was driving on hwy and it shut off. I pulled over and in ten min it started and I made it to the next exit then it shut down on the middle of the intersection.

I waited there for a while and started again. went to home depot did some shopping and had dinner. came out it started and drove me home 45min away.

Then I had a periodic times when I'd go to start it and it woukd do NOTHING. then wait a while try again nothing.. wait try again.. and it starts

my starter wasn't engaging and was occasionally still starting long after I'd driven out the driveway. Till eventually it wouldn't start with any reliability. So I replaced starter on March u also replaced the starter relay... twice.

my mom died and I HAD to drive to Atl. I have 3Corgis and no dog sitter who can watch one that bites and the other 2 for a Cpl months while I wrap up moms affairs.

So I packed up the dogs and made out five hours to Detroit. Once there my battery Lite came on I knew I had a bad alternator at that time and rushed to find a hotel room so I could charge battery overnight n get alt in the morn.

I didn't make it. had to have truck towed ONE MILE to motel 6.charged it and went to get alt the following morn.

got alt. and had them check out the rest of the truck to be sure I'd be safe.

I made to to Kentucky and it shut down all of a sudden going 85mph. I pulled over and looked to find the serpentine tension thingy was loose. Someone guided me by phone and I went out and tightened it up myself (I am a tall skinny woman and was wearing 3in heel boots and had dyed my hair pink... so there I was straddling the engine LITERALLY was to tighten it!!) I got it going and went to the truck stop about 45miles down the rd too ask mechanic to tighten it with the proper tool. I stopped in the store first went to Dr back to mechanic and it wouldn't start. I went to tighten the belt and FINALLY got a man's attn. Several came to assist and said it was starter.

I struggled to believe that but then after I slept in the truck in the rain and cold with three dogs hogging my one bench seat, I had the mechanic there replace starter. all seemed well then.. I made it 50miles or so and it shut off again. I called the mechanic and he came to help me.. we got it started and he said to replace the relay when I stopped that night. I made it a full one mile before it stopped again... so he brought me a relay to try we put it on.. the truck started and I went on my way.. made it 30min and ALMOST to the next motel 6 I'd planned on staying in.. and it shut down again.

I sent it off with tow truck and they replaced the crank sensor and throttle position selector. I asked them to ensure it was safe before letting me continue driving as I was heading into two lane mountain roads soon and couldn't risk getting stuck there.

I did fine made it to Atl.. drove back n forth from mom's to my dad's twice which is about 220miles round trip. I had ZERO indication of any issues. at all I was SURE that the $2500 I'd just spent on tows and repairs had finally fixed it.

allow me to make note. when it broke down in Detroit and Kentucky it was raining out or had just rained. when I got to Atl it was VERY dry and we hardly had ANY rain for three weeks or so. I did have two incidents on humid or rainy day when I went in to store and came out to it refusing to start. had to wait 15-45 min and it started up and ran fine.

then last week we had a deluge of rain from a storm from fla.. so we went to go to the beach about 5hrs away to spread mom's ashes. Because we had 5digs between us we had to piggyback down. we made it 60miles out of Atl and Darn it. It shut down again. I waited a few min it started went one mile then shut down again. so I waited and then got it to home depot and called for a $320 ride back to moms.

So now here I sit.. it started sun and I drove to get gas.. no issues. my friend suggested water was getting in gas.. another said under half tank I'm prob getting rust or something in the line. so I figured why not keep it full and not risk it.

I got someone coming to get it and he does gm trucks as a specialist... hopefully he will resolve this. I HAVE had the security light on ALL THE TIME. it has been on more than a week off ion the thing. But it doesn't have electric doors windows an alarm or any other thing.. so I didn't give it much attn. I figured it's an old truck maybe had a stereo or something like that or the light was a standard light they install even if u don't have an alarm.

Now reading all this I wonder... it is entirely plausible it has this issue. I don't even have a plastic housing in the steering column which tells me the prev owner had done all this type stuff with the same issue. his employee told me before I let Daddy gimme the truck that it shut off on him or wouldn't start. but I thought the $1200 I spent to get it going fixed that issue. now I figure it is either this pass lock or it is the fuel relay or a rusted pump... ANY other suggestions????

I am not exactly loaded.. I mean my dad had to gimme this truck so I had "reliable" transportation.. that's a laugh.. I've now spent prob $4500 on this truck and still have to spend more just to get home to buy another car in Canada. This is CRAZY.. I do like the trick.. love my toolboxes and want to keep it and use as a second vehicle.. but I need to trust it and I simply DON'T.

anyone have suggestions and or links advice?

.

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Not sure yet, but you are saying step one turn the truck on during this procedure the problem the truck will not crank or turns on

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rj713 will be eternally grateful.
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