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Switch battery connector on the battery itself (A1321)

Hi,

My macbook pros battery just died (model number A1321 - 77,5 Wh), so i tried to search similar battery but most of them for this model is only 73Wh.

Finaly i found and bought a same/similar battery with 77,5 Wh, but i accidently missread the model number, its A1382.

Everything looks the same, except the connector, so basicly i cannot use it.

My question is: How can i change the connector itself. I simply cant find any good guide about the 8 cable lines, to check the differences between the 2 battery connection.

To make it more clear here is a picture of the 2 connectors:

Block Image

Please kindly help me!

Thank you!

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Can anyone confirm that there is no changes in the connector pinouts between the 2 battery types? Thank you!

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Hello, I have three questions?

First, the connector is from left to right?

Where is left?

Which is the connection for minus?

The reason is my battery is no longer charged,

Because I had a fluid damage I flush

In water, the charge of the battery is however at the first

In this case, white beer has come to harm, now I have second battery which I manually load, so I need the pin assignment, and I go davo from the battery we loaded with 12 V.

Via a feedback I would be glad, thank you

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If you look closely, there will be a + and a - stamped on the plastic.

by

Ordered an A1321. Received an A1321 -- with the WRONG connector. WTF is it with Apple and switching connectors for a replacement part?

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9 Answers

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Personally I recommend returning the battery and obtaining the correct one.

If you are insistent on doing this. I am counting 9 wires, not 8. The connector is a 9-pin type, 3 for ground, 3 for V+, SMC+ and SMC-, and one for system sense (center pin). The wires must be soldered together and the connections protected by heat shrink tubes. This will take away from their flexibility and may cause them not to sit correctly for the case to close properly. If you don't solder the wires and protect the connections with heat shrink tubes that may cause other problems.

The typical MBP battery connector pinout is:

1 +12V

2 +12V

3 +12V

4 SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL

5 SYS_DETECT_L

6 SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA

7 GND

8 GND

9 GND

Within reason I have given the information you requested. Batteries don't just die. Your battery is a little over a year old and should have plenty of life. It seems to me that this laptop may have other problems that cause you to believe your battery is dead. Did you confirm battery health with Coconut Battery or iStat? Has this laptop experienced liquid damage? Please tell us more about why you believe the battery is dead.

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+1 for detail :)

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+1 for details.

Well i bought this mac with an already dead battery (battery health is between 10-25% must be somekind of battery defect - tried all kind of fixes..) - call it 1st battery.

So i bought a replacement via ebay (the same good connector but only 73 Wh) Please note that the replacement battery was already used and battery health was 70-74%. - call it 2nd battery

The Mac works well, this battery is sable. But i planned to buy a full original one. (A1382 with lately realized with different connector - call it 3rd battery) Since im kinda tired to search again and spend again a bunch of money for an another battery i would like to remove the connector from the "1rst battery" and put it on the 3rd.

The wires must be soldered together and the connections protected by heat shrink tubes. - Im planning to do this, but first i wanna know the connector pinout differencies to avoid any damage on my Macbook.

Thank you for your kind help!

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I had the same/similar problem. My battery "got pregnant" and was pushing out to the touchpad. So I decided to replace it. Unfortunately I bough battery for newer version of MacBook Pro (15"). I was too lazy to return it and order new one, so I searched for another solution. I came across this thread where pinouts were written. After small research (or I should rather call it experimenting) I found a solution :-)

The above answer where you cut the fatter connector to fit is wrong. If you would look closely you will see that the + and - pins are reversed between these two connectors. On each connector there is a mark for + and -. So cutting it down wont help.

If you have both batteries, you need to disassemble them and exchange connectors between them. The control pins are on both connectors same. So while one connector has pins in this order

+12
+12
+12
SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL
SYS_DETECT_L
SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA
GND
GND
GND

the other has pins reordered

GND
GND
GND
SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL
SYS_DETECT_L
SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA
+12
+12
+12

Be aware! Without proper tools (like soldering iron, etc) and at least some technical skills you wont get too far.

I exchanged connectors today. Battery got detected and has no problems with charging it. In case of any complications, I will write here again for more information :-) Good luck everyone!

Battery Information:

  Model Information:
  Serial Number:    D86138301HGDGDLAJ
  Manufacturer:    SMP
  Device Name:    bq20z451
  Pack Lot Code:    0
  PCB Lot Code:    0
  Firmware Version:    406
  Hardware Revision:    2
  Cell Revision:    158
  Charge Information:
  Charge Remaining (mAh):    6277
  Fully Charged:    Yes
  Charging:    No
  Full Charge Capacity (mAh):    6277
  Health Information:
  Cycle Count:    0
  Condition:    Normal
  Battery Installed:    Yes
  Amperage (mA):    -31
  Voltage (mV):    12153

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Joze, could you please explain in more detail how you opened the batteries and how to switch the connectors? I also accidentally bought the A1382 instead of the A1321.

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Thank you very much, had same problem needed A1382 but got only A1321, so as you said + and - needs to reversed, i managed to take out pins from connector itself and rearrange them, took file and filed connector so he will fit motherboard :D and all works im very happy now. (( almost fried motherboard because i tried to connect without reversing and got smoke smell :( but lucky me after reading your advice and reversing pins all works fine and charging ,and smell gone away )) Thanks again

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Can somebody say which pinout is from WHICH battery?

Thanks

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Its pretty simple. You need to open the shelf of a battery. You can do it only with some strong screwdriver and lot of force. You will need to destroy the package. Be sure to destroy the softer side of a package. That one on which the cable is sticked in. After you will finish you will end up with something like this (cable is already removed):

Block Image

Then you use the soldering iron to remove the cable. You may want to use desoldering suction pump to clean the contacts. Otherwise it will start overheating very fast. It will also leave you with clean holes, so putting there exchanged cable will be much easier.

Block Image

As you can see on a photo, the three control cables are marked. One has a grey strip on it, one has black strip on it and third one is clean. So be sure not to mix these three cables.

Be aware, if this will destroy your mac, I'm not the one responsible for it :-D Maybe even mine will burn up one day :-D But so far still no issues with my battery. Lucky me :-)

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Hey I'm in the same situation my battery is not completely dead but only lasts about 20% of the time it used too. So bought a new one online and I have the same deal 2 different connectors :(.

Tried stripping it with cutter knife and luckily it didn't work as the new connector on the A1382 is also shorter than the A1321. So I got it to fit but it doesnt actually stay plugged in (luckily if the 12v<->gnd swap is true).

So I will resolder the wires +connector of the old battery to the new battery. Now as you stated 12v and gnd lines are switched. Are you absolutely positive this is the case? Seems odd they keep the data lines smbus etc the same. Why not just change connector and keep lines the same as this would keep the pcb the same it would be just a new connector pair.

So basically what I'm asking since you ripped both batteries apart can you show a picture of the 2 pcb's inside the batteries showing that the + and gnd lines are indeed switched.

This allows future hackers including myself to just resolder the connector without ripping apart the new battery. And I will post pictures on how to do this by just resoldering 9 wires instead of mangling 2 battery cases... Also as a benefit the newer A1382 can be gotten with a higher 77+ amp rating vs the original which would give extra battery life (more than the original hooray!).

Kind regards and already much thanks for the info.

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I have just tried cutting and joining the wires in the same order and it does not work. Will try to reverse the first three and last three wires, as suggested by jozefvaclavik and let you know if it works.

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only FYI I used a razor blade knife to open a battery a while back, and if you cut the pouch the lithium ion is stored it will short and catch on fire making this green flame that will generate a lot of smoke that I assumed was toxic. It took a long time to vent the house, and I immediately thought of putting it on the aluminum macbook's lid (do not panic, but be careful, have fire extinguisher handy, door unlocked or open, don't do this close to curtains, or anything flammable. Maybe nothing happens, but if the screwdriver cuts all the way through the pouch you must be prepared and assume there will be a flame that might even produce toxic fumes. Although this is dangerous, if you are like me, it is educational to watch youtube videos about lithium ion batteries in general, or just buy another battery and sell that one. No matter how much a battery might cost, does not even come close to comparing to any harm to your health, and well being, as well as those who you live with. So PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND I STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT TO TRY THIS. MCGuyver ing with lithium ion (or many other dangerous chemicals) is very very dangerous.

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I have successfully swapped batteries...

Far more simple:

Open the connectors and reorder the pins.

No cutting into the battery, no soldering.

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Hi Ronnoc,

is it hard to open the connector? Do you made some pictures ?

thx

Richard

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No it's very simple. I popped it open with a small knife.

by

How do I change it?

1=7

2=8

3=9

or

3=7

2=8

1=9

by

Without any research or a second thought, I did 1/7 2/8 3/9. I would imagine either way should suffice, but don't quote me on that.

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Hello , I see some of you had a lot of experience, please someone can help me I have a problem with my battery I want to charge it externally. How can I do it ? I try to apply 12 V on +V and GND but it doesn't work don't charge

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hello jozefvaclavik

Do You have more pictures on the pcb inside the battery. I´m trying to charge the battery with an voltage DC power supply. But it seams that the monitoring circuit in the battery prevents such charging. Could you see any marking on the circuits so we can find out which manufacturer on the circuits.

/Markus

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My Macbook Pro had the A1321 battery and I acquired the A1382 battery by mistake. I noticed the connector was different (and also wondered if the firmware could be different). First I have tried to cut and join/solder the nine wires exactly in the same order, just to find it does not work (battery is not detected).

Then, I have found jozefvaclavik’s post saying the pins were also reordered in the new model. I have cut them again and rejoined/soldered in the new order. Works like a charm and I’m sending this message from a happy Mac Book Pro.

All I have done was to invert wires 1, 2, 3 with 7, 8, 9 (leaving 4, 5, 6 as they were before).

If you are doing this, do it one cable at a time (your battery probably came charged, and if you touch the wires you will get a short circuit) and put a some insulating tape around each cable. I have used tiny pieces of insulating tape, carefully covering the joined wires, because I wanted to ensure I would still be able to fit the battery back in the same location.

Took me more time than expected, but I’m happy that I do not need to throw this one away and buy another one.

This whole thing left me wondering why Apple would release a new battery, with the same form factor, same voltage, same amperage, an apparently compatible firmware, but a different connector. I wish someone from Apple could explain the rationale behind this (there must be a good one), other than just making the batteries incompatible.

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Hello. I got the wrong battery too. :( I would like to try something else first: to interchange the cells... if they are exactly the same dimensions. May be I'm wrong but A1382 is thicker. I will try later and if work I will post again.... or to use Jozef Vaclavik solutions

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How about you don't do something stupid like destroying one battery then having to buy another? Just get the right parts to start off with and exchange the wrong one you just got. Jozef is an idiot. Take Cellars advice, he's a professional. so am I. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", is very good advice.

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Well I did the "something stupid" and trimmed the connector A1382 to fit the connector of the A1321 and tested the mac and the charger and their fail after that I made a research and found this post. Because that A1382 is used I'm not going to lose much trying it. You can be a "pro" but a serious lack of respect for others opinions.

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some of us like to tinker. some of us find ourselves tinkering at midnight without immediate access to a replacement battery or anything else to do. I think that if these battery deals were mission-critical, we would buy new batteries, but for the sake of exploration, this is what some choose to do.

I agree that opening up the battery and changing the whole harness is seriously overkill, but if he had fun... why not. if somebody else wants to have fun.. why not? we're not packing these up and selling them to unsuspecting people and laughing all the way to the bank

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makaiandras84 will be eternally grateful.
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