Farberware Percolator

Support for percolators manufactured by Farberware.

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Not heating correctly - incomplete perk

This twenty-two year old, 8 Cup SuperFast Percolator FCP280-A, coffee maker is heating the water but no longer perking correctly. The heating process is quitting to soon. It finishes to quickly with extremely weak brew but hot water. A visual examination reveals no burned internal parts. Continuity check shows good. My question is which part to replace, the main element, the fuse link or the thermostat? I found parts for it here: http://www.thepartsbiz.com/Farberware_by...

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By the way this is my second one of these, the first one lasted 20 years. Really high quality machine built to last.

by mayer

Finally found the correct part at: www.repairshack.com

by mayer

Great, let us know when you are ready to serve a cup of hot java :-)

by oldturkey03

I have replaced the thermostat 3 times on the SuperFast pot,and after about 2

weeks,it does the same thing again...turns off too soon to get a good cup of coffee.

I cannot believe that many thermostats are defective.

What have they done differently on their new pots?

The old one lasted 20 years or more,but this one has been a PIA from the

beginning.

What happened to their once-famous-quality?

This is supposed to be a high-end perculator?

If so,I don't want to see their low-end model.

I will never but another ANYTHING of their brand.

They have created a large pool of disappointed coffeee drinkers from once

loyal customers.

by Stuart

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8 Answers

Chosen Solution

I believe that it is the thermostat that tells it to turn off when it reaches the right temp. So in the case of your coffee percolator I believe that it doesn't reach the right temp to brew the coffee. Check it with a cooking thermometer(digital works best)and run the pot through a cycle but don't add any coffee. Once done, stir the water in the pot just enough to get an accurate temp reading. The temperature of the water should be at least 185 degrees. Hope this help with the java....;-)

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Thank you for accepting my answer. I do hope you got it fixed and are back to enjoying your coffee.

by oldturkey03

Not yet, they sent the wrong part. But I have discovered that instant coffee has made some great advances in the last twenty years. I had some of the old stuff and it still tasted the same 20 years later but the new is much better. A good selection for your fall out shelter, this stuff lasts forever.

by mayer

Nothing better than a good cup of instant Nescafe....;-)

by oldturkey03

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Most Helpful Answer

Two things with incomplete perks - Actually, the perking stops before the temperature reaches at least 185 degrees F. This is normally caused by the thermostat:

1) Thermostat is defective (must be replace) or

2) Thermostat (flat disk portion) is not contacting the metal pot properly:

a) Should be fairly high pressure "pressing down" on the disk to make good contact with the coffeepot metal floor (senses the temperature of the metal floor). Note: different coffeepot designs use different methods of applying good/high pressure on the disk portion of the thermostat (Examples: piece of silicon rubber, spring metal, etc.) Note that you must not electrically short out the disk - must be electrically isolated and current can only flow through the thermostat through the proper electrical contacts (blades, brass leads/screws, etc.).

b) Use a little bit of thermal paste (same stuff as for computer chips) on the bottom of the disk where it would contact the coffeepot metal floor.

c) Lightly sand the bottom of the disk to remove oxides and also to make sure that the bottom of the disk is flat and thereby makes maximum surface and thermal contact with the coffeepot metal floor.

Do these three things (a, b, & c) with the existing/"Defective" thermostat and run a brewing cycle before you replace (throw away) the existing/"Defective" thermostat (Most of the time, the thermostat is probably OK - I have "salvaged" most thermostats this way). Bottom Line: Thermostat disk must make good thermal/physical contact with the floor of the coffeepot. Period. With poor contact (pressure too light, inadequate surface area, oxides on surface, etc.), thermostat will be "tricked" into thinking that the proper brewing temperature has been reached and will stop the current flow through the thermostat (thermostat contacts will open at the proper brewing temperature, which is at least 185 degrees F). After perking stops, the water/coffee should be measured to confirm proper temperature. Once the thermostat contacts open, then the "Warming Circuit" will keep the coffee at a slightly lower temperature (maybe 10 degrees cooler) forever, until the coffeepot is unplugged.

Note that a thermostat is "Normally Closed" at room temperature (very low resistance - virtually a dead short) and does not open up until a certain temperature is reached - at least 185 degrees F, but could be as high as 205 degrees F - this is a function built into the thermostat and some Thermostats will have the Temperature Stamped on the disk/thermostat.

Zenon

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Additional Disc Info: There are generally 2 types of disc thermostats: one with blades to connect directly to blade receptacles; the second has long brass strips, with an eyelet at each strip end, to be bolted down/connected under screws several inches away (make sure the brass strips do not contact anything else - heat shrink tubing over the brass strips is a good idea). Make sure that the blade receptacles fit tightly over the blades of the thermostat - if not, gently close/squeeze the receptacle down to tighten up the contact with the blade before connecting to the blades.

You should buy (NC) Normally Closed discs that open at approximately 90 degrees C (194 degrees F).

On Amazon, I found this blade-type disc substitute (nip off the mounting ears; bend the blades as needed), at a price for 5 discs, at much less than you could buy just one:

Uxcell a13070900ux0475 KSD301 90C 194F NC Normal Close Thermostat Temperature Thermal Switch (5 Piece)

Price: $7.85 (Prime) for 5 pieces

Works Great!

Zenon

by Zenon

Thank you Zenon. I have the Uxcell part on order. Really hoping it works. You're a wizard!

by asteradamson

Used the Uxcell , still seems to not fully perk (stops too soon , after 2 or so minutes for 2 or 3 cups) , though gets very hot .

by waldipup

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Have any of you had any luck repositioning the thermostat? I'm curious to know whether this might allow the water to reach a higher temperature before the thermostat shuts down the brewing process.

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I lightly sanded the thermostat and reassembled and mine seems to be getting good and hot although only one pot so far.Hope it works as well next time.Thanks for all the questions and tips- Stefan.

by Gill Man

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Mine did the same thing, replaced the thermostat and in 15 minutes I had a great pot of coffee.

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We've had a 12-cup Hamilton Beach for quite a few years and it quit perking at the desired length of time a while back. I've been pouring hot water through the basket to make coffee for a while, what a pain. Taking a cue from Zenon I got my Dremel out and using a small wire brush and various other grinding implements I cleaned/shined the heating element in the bottom of the pot including the large thimble shaped opening in the bottom. I filled with water and plugged it in with the basket and tube in place and it perked for 12 minutes and the water temp was measured at 185 deg. Thanks for pointing out a simplified way of "fixing" the thermostat.

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January 17, 2015

I need the thermostat and can not find it anywhere.

36TM01 560288 L193-59F S1128

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Did you look at the links in my question?

by mayer

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I have a few 100 cup Westbend and Farberware percolators, and I find the same thing. heats water, and makes the "perking" sound, but just doesnt have enough "umph" to push water through the tube.

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I have the problem of a "short perk" , gets hot and perks (and maintains a standing hot temperature after the perk completes) , but doesn't perk long enough (only for a minute or two) and coffee is too weak .

I tried sanding thermo , didn't help .

Actually , I dont understand why a "better contact" would help , if the thermo is "normally open " and closes on reaching it's high temp , it seems that if it is closing too soon it must be making good contact? , the contact transfers the heat so a "short perk" suggests that either full temp has been reached or that the thermo is defective .

If contact was poor wouldn't the thermo just keep perking forever as full temp would never be reached to close it's circuit and shut it off?

I replaced the thermo with a new 194 F Uxcell , tested the water temp and it was still only in the 150's F just after perking and shutting off , I hear it "click" when the brewing stops , so is the new thermo defective or is there some other problem?

How is the spring a factor? , is that the spring on the coffee pot rod or a thermo holding spring? , because the spring on the coffeeepot rod is set at a fixed position so cant be adjusted .

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mayer will be eternally grateful.
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