Kenmore Elite HE3 Washing Machine Repair

The Kenmore Elite HE3 is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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F35 error code appears during cycle

F35 error code - can't find this in my manual under troubleshooting

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Let me say this thread saved me hundreds of dollars!! I ordered the part for the F35 error code which is the pressure sensor off Ebay for $75 plus freight. But also after reading Randy's input way below on using "CRC QD Contact Cleaner" I gave it a try. Take a moment to read as it fixed my sensor! I guess I'll have an extra sensor too or send back but it at least got my wet laundry finished if you need your washer right away worth a try. FYI- blowing out the hose didn't work for me either. There is also a youtube video that made fixing a snap. Don't have to be a appliance tech for this one!!

by jllindvall

Same Issue with a whirlpool WFW9600TA00. Pulled the Pressure Switch(water level switch), sprayed it with "brake Kleen", and put it back in. It has been working properly for 2 weeks.I will put the new part in, but at least I have a back-up

by chris james

Exact same thing for us- we had tried everything with no luck and decided to order the part. Right afterward we figured we'd give the contact cleaner spray a try. Guess what? We've done 4 straight loads now and counting! This hasn't happened in several months! Extremely happy- maybe we can send the part back?! I would suggest giving this a try!

by Sharron

Finally met an honest repairman! He suggested a gallon on white vinegar poured in the detergent slot and run the 'clean washer' cycle. It worked! The gunk left in the washer tub after the first completed cycle made it clear why the sensor kept failing. I ran the cycle twice to make sure most of the gunk was gone and two weeks and many loads later the washer is still working fine. The final cost was just the service fee and the cost of the vinegar. The repairman suggested that we do this at least once a year! We learned this after days of aggravation and multiple efforts to clean hoses, tubes, and coils, etc. Hope this helps others plagued with their high efficiency washers.

by jawest50

Just trying this…. jawest50 It's worth the time to try any fix before calling the repairman… after trying to run the "clean washer" cycle a few times, it kept saying F35…but you could almost "hear" it trying to run better. So then I kept trying it on different cycles until the bulk cycle… It finally started to run the cycle longer…. I let it run the cycle thru with Oxi and Steam included…. Wa La!! It ran thru and no more issues…. Thanks Jawest50 … this little fix did the trick. ( I have a Samsung 5t Steam washer)

by CM Hays

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The F35 error code indicates an analog pressure sensor error. The analog pressure sensor is the component that detects water level in the washer tub. This error can usually be cleared but it will occur again if the main control board still detects a problem with the signal from the analog pressure sensor. This error code can be caused by a problem with the air pressure tube between the bottom of the washer tub and the analog pressure sensor. If you are able to unplug the washer and check this air pressure tube, you may be able to resolve this problem. The analog pressure sensor can be accessed by pulling off the top panel of your washer. Remove the screws at the very back of the top panel and then pull it back slightly and then up and off of the washer. The analog pressure sensor is Key 38 in the first image below. With the washer unplugged, check the connection of the air pressure tube to this component. Check the entire air tube down to its connection to the bottom of the washer tub. You will likely need to remove the back panel of the washer to check the entire air pressure tube. If you find a kink, tear, hose or loose connection in the air pressure tube, then this is the likely cause of your F35 error code. If the air pressure tube appears to be okay, then you will likely need to replace the analog pressure sensor. If the problem still exists after replacing this component, then the main electronic control board for the washer will need to be replaced. If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to safely access and check these components, I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the washer.

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Thorough answer. +

by rj713

1.) The Purchase:

I purchased my Duet Steam Model Number WFW9500TW01 on 11/04/08.

2.) The Problem:

7/1/2011 It started getting the F35 error.

3.) The Troubleshooting:

I was able to open the top of the washer and go through some of the troubleshooting that I saw online (disconnecting the hose, blowing back into the washer) which seemed to fix it for about 10 loads but then again it started SUDS / F35 non-stop. I called a local repair service and found that I needed the “analog water pressure level sensor” which apparently had been discontinued by Whirlpool and replaced with a re-engineered part.

4.) The Part needed out of stock and backordered for months:

Old Part: W10156252

New Part: W10415587

The local repair service said that the part was on national backorder and according to their main supplier it had been so for 2 months. The new shipment of these parts was supposed to arrive 7/18/2011. On 7/18/2011 nobody called me to tell me whether or not they were in, so I called Whirlpool and escalated the issue with them.

5.) The call to Whirlpool:

First I spoke with Emma, she confirmed the part was now on a preliminary delivery date of 7/29/11. I shared my frustrations and she transferred me to a “specialist”, who, spoke as if she was chewing her own face - her name was “Candy” from Tennessee. I knew that I wasn’t going to get anywhere with her so I escalated to her manager “Austin”. “Austin” tried or said he tried to find the part from a couple of sources but couldn’t. He said:

“Sir, in this case what we need to do is get this to our Product Review Board who may offer you a replacement unit. They will call you within 24 hours”.

6.) The call from the Whirlpool Product Review Board:

The next day 7/19/2010 a woman named Tihate called me and said that I qualified for a new replacement machine. She went on to explain that it was a newer model but would still fit on my pedestals that I purchased and would be white like my old model.

6a.) One Small Thing:

Tihate added that there would be a small fee for the new washer of $578.57

7.) The final resolution.

I politely declined her offer. I will now wait for the part, fix the washer and sell it along with every Whirlpool, GE and Maytag appliance in my home.

My new LG washing machine will be here tomorrow, with a standard 10 year warranty which costs about $150 more than the replacement from Whirlpool.

P.S.

Tihate’s direct number is 1-866-640-7146 ext 6496

by Jeff Townsley

Really great way to state a question. As this question has already been answered, no one will look at your question because it looks like it's an answer to the previous question. Please cut and paste this into a new question and delete this answer. Thanks

by mayer

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I was able to repair my failing pressure sensor by spraying a couple of short/light bursts of CRC QD Contact Cleaner which I found at an auto parts store. Remove the pressure sensor as described in Lonnie Johnsons YouTube video. The black cover of the pressure sensor can by removed be carefully sliding the brown inner sensor housing outward just a little. You will notice two thin black tabs on either side of the outer housing. Gently push both tabs outward while sliding the brown inner housing out. The brown housing will slide very little before hitting another point on the same black tabs. Lift the two black outer tabs upward this time and the brown pressure sensors should slide out completely.

Now remove the short black rubber hose from the top of the pressure sensor chip. Hold the brown pressure housing upside down and spray a couple of light bursts of contact cleaner into the pressure sensor chip inlet tube. Use a thin red spray tube that fits into the spray can nozzle if you have one. The CRC QD contact cleaner will dry quickly. DO NOT SPRAY FULL PRESSURE BURSTS. Light low pressure bursts will clean it out and not damage it internally. Reconnect the rubber hose and check that both ends are fully seated. Reinstall the black outer cover and install the unit in your washer. Hope it works for you also!

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Thanks Randy, I have the same washer started to get F35( sud) ordered the pressure switch but before arrived I did the cleaning with suction and contact cleaner, put it back together and no more F35. I guess I have a spare part. Thanks for the advice.

by KrasiK

This Tip definitely worked for me. $7.99 CRC spray from home depot. I was initially confused since there are tons of CRC options. I bought the dark blue can ( that didn't specify electronics application) and it worked for me.

Fortunately, I didn't order any parts yet.

Thanks Randy!!

by matsumoto012001

12/24/15 -

I saved both Money AND Time using Randy's Cleaning method! I was able to fix my machine the same day that I got the error, instead of ordering a part & waiting for shipment.

I didn't know exactly what "CRC QD Contact Cleaner" was. "CRC" is the brand, "QD" = Quick Dry. I got "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" a red & white spray can.

I used it both in the sensor tube & on the electronic contacts of the sensor where the cable plugs in. If the contacts become corroded or dirty, the signal would not get through & could be another cause of the F35 error.

This is the 2nd time I got the F35 Error since I purchased my Kenmore Elite in 2010. In 2013, I found on the web how to replace the sensor. I ordered a refurbished pressure sensor & it worked. I'm glad that I searched the web again today & found this solution. I was able to clean & test both my original pressure sensor & the refurbished one. Now I have 2 that work!

Thanks Randy!

Sincerely Mark

by Mark

Thanks to everyone on this blog. My maytag washer displayed F35 then SUD code about a month ago. I tried the quick fix of cleaning the filter and drain hoses with no luck. Then I picked up a can of QD Contact Cleaner yesterday, found that sensor and I'm on my second load of laundry tonight. Again, thanks for all the great info.

by hyancer

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SUD F35 Error

After reading numerous forums it appeared that there was no alternative but to replace the pressure switch. I did what one forum suggested to make sure the pressure hose was clear.

I tried to order a part through Amazon for $97.00 but the manufacturer would not allow sales into Canada. Great! All the part suppliers in Canada want $150.00 to $180.00 and there was a three week lead time. Great again, and the laundry is piling up.

How complicated can this pressure switch be? If excessive suds is causing the problem then it must be clogged or dirty.

Let try cleaning the thing. I had a can of electrical contact cleaner much like brake cleaner and gave the contacts a shot or two. Why not clean the switch mechanism...nothing to loose, right. I filled the switch cavity with the cleaner, gave it a good shake and the drained and allowed it to dry.

Bingo! We're on our sixth load and laundry pile is gone.

Hope this helps.

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Wish I had tried that! Good job!!

by John

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I had this error a couple of times too. The first time I encountered it I got a "SUDS" error and a few minutes later F35. I replaced the pressure switch and it worked great. I recently had the exact same symptoms. I replaced the pressure switch again, no change. Ordered another switch (in case the first new one was bad) - no luck. Ended up having to replace the master control unit. I now have two of the pressure switches and am selling them on eBay at a substantial discount.

Go to eBay and search for the part number (W10415587). Mine is listed for $50 or $65 instant buy.

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water level sensor switch W10415587 repair? The answer is YES it can be repaired. First off you must be comfortable working on your own machine and have a little experience when electronics.

The switch is located on the top right hand side under the top cover on a Maytag front loading model 5000 series. By removing three screws in the back (those are the first screws as you look over the top backside). you can spot the "Air" switch by looking for a small rubber tube running from the bottom side of the tub to it. you will see also see a little connector with four or five wirers. Remove the rubber tube and carefully remove the connector (note small locking tab must be depressed, don't break it) now to get the switch off of the sidewall give it a quarter turn twist, then it will pull out. the actual switch is under a plastic cover (mine was a black cover) now using a very small screw driver carefully pry two locking grooves on either of the cover. those pins release another plastic part that the circuit board is mounted on. Now you will see a small tube going to a IC chip with a diaphragm valve sitting on a IC chip. pull off the tiny rubber tube ( not the one on the IC pull off the other side). Now give it some suction, I just used my mouth and felt water come out. reassemble and you should be good to go. Water vapor from the tub makes its way through the rubber tube and collects on the sensor in the diaphragm causing the error code f-35 or suds (it thinks your tub is flooded). It work for me even though I already ordered the part , now I guess I have a spear part. Good luck!!

Bye the way if you need to remove the circuit board slide a small flat blade (like a feeler gauge) under the circuit board to release the locking mechanism. There aren't any traces on the bottom of the board to damage. have fun.......

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bought the pressure sensor again and this time it didn't work. still get the f35 code. sooo i have to buy a main control panel? i only get 2-3 years out of these switches. seems it always happens after my wife runs the cleaning cycle. should i give up and buy a new washer that is not kenmore or whirlpool? our lg appliances seem to work without problems. would like to stick to some sort of american but really!!!

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I have the F35. I opened the washer and got the IC/pressure sensing board. I read that the pressure transducer is supposed to read from 1 to 5V. The reading on this one was 1.21V. Using a hose I put pressure into the sensor by way of mouth to confirm that indeed the voltage out of the analoge pin 4 goes from 1.21 to 5.25Volts. As I did this, the machine responded by turning the pump on and off depending on how much pressure I put in. So I think that lowering the input voltage from 5.25 or so to the nominal 5V will fix it. this is because the analouge sensor will sense higher than 1 volt while the digital converter will always want 1 volt to mean 0pressure no matter what the voltage is. I think the voltage supply in the main board drifts up higher than 5 volts and thus ruins the signal from the analougue sensor by pushing it always higher than 1v. This means to the machine that the pump must keep running. It would then have a time out on the pump so as to not burn it and falsely detect "SUDS". At that point it would also through the F35 error. I will confirm this soon.

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I finally identified the root cause of my F35 SUDS error. I found by a hole in the black hose that attaches to the pressure sensor and runs down behind the tub. The tub rubbed a hole in the hose during the spin cycle. Inspect the vacuum hose first before replacing the sensor. Route your new hose against the back of the washer and secure it with tape or cable ties.....Randy

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I finally experienced the F35/SUD error on my Kenmore Elite HE3T steam washer and in my case it was the analog pressure sensor or APS. With the tub empty I was getting about 1.4VDC out when it should have been about .38VDC so the washer thought the water was not draining out so it will shutdown to prevent a water overfill condition. I ended up repairing the APS with a APS repair kit on the site mentioned below. All you need is a low power (25 watt or so) soldering iron.

Another common failure is that the CCU power supply can cause an issue with the APS so it reads incorrect. There is a repair kit for that issue, too.

The F35 and SUD error cause can be figured out and repaired in most cases. It more than likely will be the analog pressure sensor (APS) or the CCU power supply issue. There are repair kits available for both the APS and CCU to try once you figure out which one is the culprit using a low cost volt meter. Save yourself a very expensive service call and check out repairing your machine yourself.

You can take some readings with your volt meter on the CCU or even the APS and determine which one is causing the F35/SUD indication. See www.f35error.com for videos on how to determine if the APS or CCU is causing your error code.

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deb will be eternally grateful.