Late 2011 model, A1278 / 2.4 GHz i5 or 2.8 GHz i7 processor.

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Can I fix this logic board without power?

My laptop isn’t letting me charge the battery, and as far as I can tell, that’s the only thing wrong with it (And the chargers are fine, one is even new). I don’t know anybody else with the same kind of laptop, and both my working batteries are dead now, so can’t charge them that way. Before anybody asked, yes, I’ve reset the SMC. I’ve also replaced the DC In (which definitely needed the replacing).

Looking at the logic board, it’s pretty clean (though I plan on doing a more thorough job soon) there’s no apparent damage or corrosion, everything appears to be plugged in, the only thing that really catches my eye is one spot where the dots seem a little browner than the rest (I can post pics later).

A little history, the laptop’s been having issues charging for a little while. It started with one charger when I noticed it would only charge if the computer was off. I bought a new charger and that worked for a while, but then it decided it didn’t want to charge at all, so I had to go back to only charging when it was off. Then the first charger stopped working entirely, and the battery ran out. After that, I replaced the DC In, but it still wouldn’t work. Pretty sure everything’s connected right.

I’m very much on a budget right now, but I’ve got a multimeter I’m learning to use and might know some people who can help me with soldering if that’s what it needs. Guess I’m just wondering what the problem’s most likely to be, if the browner dots are where I should be focused and how you’d fix that if so. Basically I’m still new to dealing with the logic board but I really want to save my laptop if I can.

EDIT: Pictures! (Hopefully this works right...)

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Should be two halves of the logic board, plus a close up on the area with the dots that *might* be browner. The chip right next to them is labeled ‘LSI L-FW643E-2 BAN312MN NNAA8062 1131T’ if that helps at all.

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Plus, the back, if that helps. Nothing that looks obviously wrong as far as I can see.

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if you post photos it could help more

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Really, at this point, I’m hoping the in-depth cleaning will fix it just because I bothered to post the question and it would be super ironic if the whole problem was it just needing better cleaning the whole time. (That and the DC In part, cause that was obviously bad)

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Got this very model machine in two days ago with the same symptoms. I ran Coconut Battery http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutba...

It had a brand new aftermarket battery. 0 cycles and not charging. Dropped in a used original battery and everything was fine. In the last 3 months I've seen about four machines come in that use the A1322 battery. All had been replaced with knock offs and all were fixed by an original battery. I'd pick a used OEM battery with 500 cycles anyway over a knock off.

Your best friend with diagnosing battery issues is Coconut Battery. I learned this eight years ago thanks to @rdklinc. I use it everyday.

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The battery that was in there right before I ran out of power completely was the original battery. I did have a new battery in there at one point, but I put the original back in after I realized it wasn’t the problem.

I bought the MacBook new years ago, the hard drive had to be replaced once, and as I said, I’ve personally replaced the DC In. I have two working batteries (when I can actually charge them) and extra RAM in case that’s ever an issue. My biggest problem over the years has been going through chargers, usually because of frayed wires, but one did fry itself, and another one ended up scorching the original DC In. If it means anything, the last charger to actually do any charging (albeit only when the MBP was turned off) was a third party one. While the Apple chargers appear to be fully functional, they decided to stop charging sooner.

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Your issue will most likely be with this chip or this chip and the current sensing resistors near it. You can replace this chip but you NEED a microscope. If you screw up soldering this chip you will cause a lot of issues. You will need a hot air station, Some flux and a microsoldering iron. Here to help if needed.

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I suggest you check out this video on how to replace this chip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr1UVPsE...

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Ah, the one that says 625 9AHRTZ F128BF? Hallelujah, it’s not the SMC! Any tips for how I would go about testing that bit with the multimeter before ordering the pieces?

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Generally you just replace this chip. You can check betweens pin 27/28 and pins 17/18 in resistance modes with the power off. You will need a board view file. I can't say where you can get those but if you google "820-2936 schematic and board view" you should be pleasantly surprised. Download open board view from openboardview.org to read those files. Post the resistance values here when you get them.

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Will do! It’ll be a few days before I can download those files on a regular computer (doing everything by phone at the moment), but I’ll update when I can.

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Okay, ran into a problem while trying to replace the chip. It’s not coming off with the hot air gun and flux. Any tips?

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What hot air gun? Go hotter

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A S will be eternally grateful.
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