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Model A1181: 1.83, 2, 2.1, 2.13, 2.16, 2.2, or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Why won't the logic board boot?

Ok. I've made a mistake. I've ordered a "Macbook logic board C2D 2.16Ghz mid 2007 Energy Star" from eBay and tried to put it in a "Macbook 2.16Ghz Non-Energy star", replacing the old logic board. It won't boot.

Can I replace components like the battery connector and the dc-in for the energy-star compliant parts and make it boot?

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Did you see the note on the part: This logic board only works on machines that have Energy Star printed on the board.

MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (Energy Star) Logic Board

I would contact iFixit directly here and ask: http://www.ifixit.com/Info/contact

MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (Energy Star) Logic Board Image

Product

MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (Energy Star) Logic Board

$99.99

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The logic board was bought off eBay actually. It was after I received and replaced it, I found out about the note. I wonder why this is. Should have read more information on beforehand, although I thought had a lot covered.

I am used to work with pc stuff and can handle technical information. Could you perhaps tell me what the differences are in the hardware configuration between the e-star and non-e-star model mid 2007?

The only one I found was: battery connector / sleep. Other components like the dc-in board, smc, should be generic for Apple's productions sake.

And thanks for taking the time to answer my question.

After some more research I found this answer on iFixIT: Are MacBook parts interchangable?... which also answers my question:

"Models with "Energy Star" printed on the board in the RAM slot have 2 fewer pins on the battery connector, and the logic board has 2 fewer holes."

And a wonderful suggestion back in march by lemerise, calling for a sort of 'exchangeable part list'. I say: "hear, hear!" and would like to vote +1 to this suggestion. Such a grid would have answered my question right away. (Grids don't answer questions, I know)

So looking back at my original problem: logic board won't boot; it can be:

  • broken keyboard
  • wrong battery connector (checked, should boot w/o connector)
  • broken DC-IN (checked, pwr led turn green and amber when lid closed)
  • broken logic board
  • broken RAM (checked, worked fine)
  • No HDD installed (not checked, should boot anyway)
  • PRAM / SMC (checked, both reset)

So I'll go with the keyboard and otherwise the logic board is toast.

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Sander Bolt will be eternally grateful.
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