Repair and troubleshooting information for the Suzuki FA50 Moped.

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Why is the engine bogging under acceleration?

I recently managed to get the moped running properly, albeit for only a short time. Things were looking up: I replaced the spark plug, cleaned out the exhaust, adjusted the idle / fuel screws, and even replaced the brakes (I can stop now!).

So everything was looking good. I was test-riding it after a short hiatus, and the moped was running fine. Near the end of my ride, I stopped at an intersection to make a left turn. I revved the engine while still stationary in anticipation of the light turning green -- I didn't want to hold up traffic, and the 50cc engine takes a while to get going. I pushed off from standstill, the scooter started moving fine, but soon thereafter started lagging. It absolutely refused to go past 20 MPH even though I'd usually go 27-28 on the same stretch of road. It was consistently going slower afterwards, and I scurried back home as best as I could.

I've revved the engine like this in the past (with the moped stationary), but for shorter durations. This time I'd say I was on full throttle ~5-10 seconds while stationary.

A couple of days later I fired it up, but it ran horribly. I managed to get it moving, but it hit 10-12 MPH on mostly flat land (where 27 MPH was common). It felt as if the engine was providing power for a couple of seconds, then stopped the power delivery for a couple of seconds, and it kept doing this over and over. It was so weak that I had to push it up a hill to get it back to my residence.

I thought -- for just a second -- that I smelled a burning clutch when I was riding it back home after the intersection incident. After I got home, I "smelled" around, but couldn't pick up any burnt clutch scent.

I sincerely hope the clutch isn't the culprit, since it's an expensive fix. Please let me know if you have any ideas as to where I can start troubleshooting (aside from the clutch, of course), as the weather's nice and I'm hoping to get it going this weekend -- fingers crossed!

7/10/10 Update

I swear guys, I'm not crazy. There was a problem with the moped.

This morning I fired it up the usual way, hoping to analyze how it runs. It hit 29 MPH on flat land like nobody's business and I rode it around for a good half hour with no problems. I have no idea what changed in the last couple of weeks -- perhaps it had some time to think about its problems and resolved them.

I have a feeling this won't be the last time this problem pops up. I will most likely be coming back to this post sometime in the future :)

Thanks for all the replies!

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Try holding the choke while running at a good speed (15-20 mph). If running improves, you probably have an air leak in the engine.

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+ very well stated question. You should write manuals ;-)

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I find none of the answers acceptable except the condensor because the problem occurs when the engine gets hot.

A fuel problem would be constant as well as dirty carb, clogged hoses, leaking intake, so the problem is related to the heat which is prolly the points/condensor

by

Check for fuel lines too close to a heat source causing vapor lock

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I had this problem this morning, but i seem to have a leak coming from my air cleaner/muffler, i have a tgb r125x

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits

6 Answers

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Always start with checking for strong spark, a bad condenser can put out strong spark when cold, but will quickly fade. Arcing across the points is a good indication of a bad condenser. Assuming that the ignition system is in tip-top shape, that sounds like a fuel related issue.

I would start with checking fuel flow, as well as the fuel level in the tank. With a gravity feed fuel system, a clogged gascap vent, or misrouted/to long of a fuel line are common culprits, especially as the fuel level gets lower in the tank. If the tank is venting properly, and fuel flowing well to the carburetor, I'd clean the carb.

Pay close attention to the small holes in the carburetor jets, just because you can see light through the hole does not mean it's not restricted by residue left from evaporating fuel causing a lean fuel mixture. Poking a small piece of soft copper wire through all the holes, followed by a good blast of air or carb cleaner works well. Do not use steel or anything to hard to clean out the jet, you may accidently enlarge the jet, changing the fuel mixture.

If the bike does not idle smoothly or takes a long time to settle back down to idle speed, and you've already cleaned the carburetor, you may have an airleak. Airleaks can be caused by a bad seal in the engine, or in the intake/carburetor joints. You can sometimes track down an airleak by spraying carburetor cleaner on a suspect sealing/joint area and listening closely to see if the engine RPM's change (sucking carb cleaner fumes into carburetor will also do this, so be careful when working near the carburetor).

Hope those suggestions help!

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+ awesome

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+ excellent, please come back again.

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+ Ralph

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Can I put in rubbing alcohol in my fuel tank to help my 50 cc stop shaking and shuttering

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no ethanol in a 2 stroke.

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Drain the gas tank completely and wash it out with some fresh gas. Condensates from sitting for a long time may have clogged the hoses and filters plus you may have some water condensation in the lines now or particulate matter.

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+ Ralph

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so pretty much idleing fine then dying when trying to accelerate can be caused by bad gas. good to know ill try a fresh tank from a different station than the last tank. i was running fine then filled my tank and it started its crap

thanks

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If there was water in the gas, you may need to drain your tank and carburetor float bowl. The water is heavier the gas and sits at the bottom of your tank and float bowl. Shine a bright flashlight into your tank, can you see anything that looks like bubbles floating at the bottom? That will be water. It can also get trapped in your fuel filter and cause issues.

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clean ur carb and check spark plug as a good spark and clean.checks leads 4 damage.fuel tank filter clean.

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Well I think you should spray started fluid then clean off spot plug and spray hoses and make Sure your hoses are tight

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My fa50 Suzuki 1985 had the same prob, i could rev it a lil but as soon as i revved it while on it, it would cut off. My neighbor suggested that all older motorcycles have same issue. Simply get your hammer and tap away. I tapped the carborater and the thing next to the carborater pretty good and it started up and ran faster than b4! It is suppose to loosen a needle that controls gas flow.

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my son was having trouble with his new 150cc, I tried everything I knew without any luck, then I saw the post about beating the carb, I should have thought of it myself since I work on cars, but since they got rid of carbs, guess I forgot old school methods work great on old school parts, lol

Thanks for reminding me.

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I had the same issue with my SYM Euro Jet, I had cleaned the carb and exhaust. However still bogging out, I took it in to a shop for service, they said sell for parts.

What I ended up doing was replace the seals on the Piston head and Exhaust myself and it has been running fine for another $8000ks :-)

Update

I have also fallen victim to cheap 2stroke Oil, which was found to cause buildup on the Spark Plug and in the Exhaust. Never again

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I have a 1980 something 185 Suzuki 4wheeler, it was popping and wouldn't rev high at all. My girlfriend and her daughter left with it ran fine they barely got home. I first jump on it give it gas it wouldn't move I thought it was in a high gear I down shift to 1st it popped and wouldn't really move right away and would stick in between gears. I pulled the plug cleaned it and then pulled the air filter and it ran fine. Then it ran out of oil and wouldn't start till I added the right oil again.

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