The Apple iPhone 5s was announced on September 10, 2013. Repair of this device is similar to the previous models, and requires screwdrivers and prying tools. Available as GSM or CDMA / 16, 32, or 64 GB / Silver, Gold, and Space Gray.

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Discussing methods for performing a glass only repair as a business?

So as the title says, I'm looking to start performing glass only repairs on iPhone 5S's, 5C's, Samsung's etc. There are several methods ranging from several price ranges, but for what I want to do I want a high success rate, and 0 bubbles. I want an efficient business setup (I am a business owner) to explore these cheaper repairs.

These are the two things I was looking;

The first, LOCA (Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive) Which is applied on the screen after separation and cleaning then after the removal of bubbles it is then cured under a UV lamp.

The second, OCA (Optically Clear Adhesive) which comes in pre-cut sheets that are applied to the LCD and the glass is attached.

I was originally leaning towards LOCA, and now OCA, but I have queries with the pressure methods of removing residual bubbles in the gap between the glass and the screen. There are two ways to remove bubbles, an autoclave, and a vacuum chamber. I am wondering, for anyone who has experienced, which works better for what method? Also, if the vacuum chamber is a viable option, do you think it would be possible to make your own (having the knowledge and tooling of course). Is heat necessary when removing bubbles? To my understanding it works best at roughly 60 degrees centigrade(140 degrees Fahrenheit). How do you heat the screen in a vacuum? Would any autoclave work? Or would I need to fork out the $1500 for a purpose built autoclave? What pressure is required for these bubble removals? I'm looking for the most cost effective professional method for performing glass only repairs on phones, while still having some level of automation and a high success rate? What do you guys recommend? I really appreciate any tips from guys already doing this. Thanks so much! :)

P.S. Could anyone explain exactly how each bubble removing method has an effect on each type of screen adhesive? I have heard that using an autoclave with LOCA would make it spit out the sides? The vacuum chambers make the bubbles expand and then come out the side, how long does this process take? It just seems to worsen it while looking at it. Sorry for all the questions but it's a lot to invest, especially for someone of my age (15).

Sorry if this belongs in Meta, I wasn't quite sure.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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Hi I'm just wondering how you got on? I have done loca and it's very messy wouldn't recommend to anyone. But I'm intrested in oca. Thanks ben

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Ben did you ever get an answer from anyone else?

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If you are serious about getting into the business, the autoclave is a good investment Loca Glue can be messy and time consuming. In order to leverage your time, you will need the right equipment. The good news: It looks like the price of these machines is coming down recently.

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Let me start by introducing myself. Im an owner of an electronic repair shop. We do everything. From Board repair to screen replacements. Prior to owning my own company I was a general manager of a store which was part of the 2nd biggest repair franchise in the U.S.

I have done glass only repairs for a long time now and have used multiple methods. Here is the one I use currently and highly suggest. First things u will need are: an LCD separator machine(basically a hot plate) I recommend get one with a vacuum pump built in. That will cost 150-400 depending on model. Use the molybdenum wire method. This works best. Once you have LCD separated and cleaned apply your loca . Here is the trick I don't think many ppl use. Go to Walmart buy a food saver vacuum sealer and bags (15 bucks). Place your glass LCD and mold into bag and seal it. Then watch the bubbles work themselves out. Finally cure and then profit.

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can bags use multiple times? Or they are glued and must use new in next operation?

Do you place glued glass LCD under UV light in bag?

Edgar

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dannyp1987 - regarding the foodsaver vacuum method, I've seen that method used on a video where LCOA is used.

Would you have any experience (recommendation) about using that foodsaver vacuum method with OCA (non-liquid)? From every video I've watched, OCA seems to require the Autoclave in order to completely bond the adhesive, but I wonder if I could get away with using foodsaver vacuum to complete the bonding with OCA?

Thanks.

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Hello, I've been tinkering with phone screens for the past year. Correct me if I'm wrong but I've been applying loca on the lcd in a stretched "X" shape and thickening up the amount of loca. I drop the the glass very slowly starting from the bottom. Then I apply pressure spreading the glue and continue applying pressure sqedging out extra loca until glass rests on all sides of the mold. I also use a handheld UV light to help securing one section at a time. I've had no issues with bubbles or fitting in the frame. It's a little messy but when I'm done you couldn't tell it from a new phone.

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Thanks Dannyp1987.

I thought it was a myth using the food saver. I will try it.

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... or we could start a Government Petition to make Laws on imported Mobiles and Tablets to have 'cheap enough' spare parts FROM the manufacturers, like it used to be with ANY electronics!

Let alone they do not give schematic diagrams anymore!

I am talking in general Electronics and Hardware parts.

Oops, too democratic and not Business like?

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I'm so surpised this doesnt have any comments under it. This would be a dream come true. Everything hit on point.

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Unfortunately, I am not!

The 'ones' that know will not let their 'little' secret out!

The main reason I do not do this part of the job is:

1. heat and cold BOTH can reduce the life of the LCD

2. there is NO clear method, but a lot of tools made to MAKE us spend for nothing!

Still waiting for a clear methodology, rather than attempt-ology!

;p ]

PS the most important thing here is find a 'cure' rather than a 'palliative repair' - i.e. Governments should FORCE manufacturers to supply parts at 'market' prices = cure!

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Show me where to sign up for that petition

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I'm in reclamation team in Samsung and autoclave heat chamber do remove the bubbles from the LCD. For 6 capacity chamber recommended temperature is 60degree at 10 minutes

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Hey thanks for info but a couple questions.

What PSI are you using?

Does this work with Note2/3/4 and s3/s4/s5?

Does this require a polarizer to be replaced?

And do you attach the LCD to the OCA and glass all in one step before placing in autoclave? thats all thanks!! :)

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Dude,

Don't let anyone discourage you from progressing forward with learning new ways of creating income for yourself and growing mentally . As far as trying to decide which method you should use . I would say if you want to find out which method is a better fit for your business, here's how I did the same thing except I did it in the screen printing industry. Here's what I would suggest you do to really get a solid understanding of what your about to get yourself into.

Contact the person selling the different brands of the equipment and ask him to provide you with 4-5 business owners that he has sold the same equipment to. Call the business owner and explain to him your looking to buy one of those units to do cheaper quicker repairs . Talk to the business owner and try and get him/her to let you come work with them for a day-a week whatever time your going to need to learn how to operate the machinery from someone who's doing exactly what your wanting to do. Tell him you work for free for him for so many days if he in turn will teach you how operate the machinery in a proficient manner along with showing you his break outs on supplies and other costs related to the cost of actually making money off that operation. Then find someone with the other technology and do the same thing.

Spending a few days learning from doing is invaluable experience to a business owner .

As far as advice on which way is better, figure out your cost on each type of repair and the number one thing I would be interested in knowing is which method gives you the highest quality result for the least amount of money you have to spend to fix a screen. Your main objective with any type of business service Is to know which method will yield you the highest quality results For the least amount of money.

I would put quality above all else, quality is your friend. As long as you put quality First, you'll never have to make an excuse for anything.

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or Simply get a faulty LCD and experiments yourself.

That way you will know for certain, without school - the Scientific way - small changes, write them down and see what happens!

Of course there might be differences depending on maker, etc.

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I haven't repaired the glass on any phones but have replaced the whole front a bunch of times, my 4 children have busted many phones. Lol ! I have glued pieces of glass together in the past with uv resin and a vacuum chamber, it bonds with 0 bubbles and crack disappears. I doubt this would work with a completely smashed or spiderweb screen but a lot of completely cracked screens start with a smaller crack then spread because the person waits to fix the screen and it gets worse. Why would it interfere with the digitizer function ? I was just wondering if anyone has tried it ? I don't know about "rubbish" or "silly" unless it works and puts u out of a job?

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What you used probably was UV glue ( LOCA ). Because the resin I know its molecules are more...."thicker"?! (Don't know if what I say is totally correct) but if you put it under a microscope both LOCA and resin you will see the difference. LOCA is crystal clear for that purpose only. Also resin after time becomes smudgy. And I don't think resin can put a tech out of job because they're both cheap. And I don't think a customer would appreciate when bringing his/her phone with a smashed screen, for the technician to put the pieces back together or fill the cracks. But on the other hand, that's my opinion an mine only :)

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Ive not had big problems with bubbles and screen replacements have you done these types of repairs before and keep having that problem? It may sound ghetto but when doing window tinting you can use a hairdryer to heat it up a bit and it will stretch out then use a kind of scraping tool to get the bubble out. Should work the same with a phone i wouldnt see why not. As far as the business goes i wouldn't reccomend doign a glass only type of thing, i would highly reccomend if you're going to do it repair all phone problems and if you can't fix it or its totally shot thats fine just tell the customer and dont charge them. Im starting a game console and phone repair business where i am now and for someone your age i would reccomend you try that out unless you live somewhere that you have plenty of clients and opportunity to make money where i am theres not a lot of money going around so game consoles are pretty trendy along with the smartphones. One last thing don't worry about spending hundreds or thousands of dollars on anything for a business until you already have the business going trust me you'll get discouraged spending a thousand dollars on something and then finding out you can only make a hundred dollars a week or less on average so pace yourself and start with simple repairs work your way up to complex things and build a large understanding of what you want to work with. As a young person your biggest problem will be people not taking you seriously or trusting you have the knowledge to do something so work on speaking and knowledge and you should be able to get over that hurdle. Hope some of that us helpful.

Update

Well if you have a demand for that in your area then i would say go for it. I have honestly not heard of the things you're talking about but i have not done many phone repairs just a couple and i didnt have any specific issues. Maybe some of the newer stuff is like that but i cant say i know anything about it. The best i can figure from a google search is that its cured by a screen/digitzer replacement and it could be caused from internal pressure or heat causing weird things to happen. Did you replace a screen on a phone and have problems with bubbles or something this is the first ive really heard of issues like this.

Update

Are you trying to figure out a way to fix the screen that has these issues without a full replacement ?

Update

I really don't understand it seems like overkill to me because i would just buy broken iphones as is and keep a stock of extras rather than spending a ton of money on a machine that does one thing. Best thing i can say is try calling those people and talking to them about it because i like fully disassembling parts cleaning them making sure there are no internal problems and that everything is tight so this kind of thing im not interested in. Youre doing the right thing by seeking more information so just keep on that i couldnt justify getting into this one for the price and two because i like seeing the inside of the phone and double checking everything inside and out.

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Oh, i already have a phone repair business, I realised there should have been a comma in there after I posted it. I was looking to branch I to this to save me money (cheaper screen repairs, more business, overall more turnover). I've never done one before. I know OCA is virtually useless without some sort of pressure chamber though... Well at least that's what I've heard. So you don't use any chambers or anything?

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Nah, I always use full front panel replacements, but I'm interested in starting to do glass only repairs. There are methods to remove bubbles in the adhesives, one is just straight up pushing them out with your hands or a roller or whatever, but this only works with the liquid adhesive. The other way is with pressure chambers.

This is the autoclaves specially made for bubble removal:

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Sear...

There's videos of them working if you google things like "Autoclave bubble removal screen" etc.

This is a video of some dude using a vacuum chamber on a heat plate to remove bubbles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w-t2GK4...

He refers to it as a vacuum chamber and you can see the pressure DECREASE rather than INCREASE when he turns on his pump. It's also heated and he is using LOCA. It starts at about 13:45. If you guys could take a look at it and tell me what you think I'd really appreciate it. :) Could this question possibly be better in iFixit Meta??

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I've been playing around with LOCA and you can slide the glass sideways until the bubble is past the edge, then slide it back and no more bubble.

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Hi fnqirepair, are you in the UK?

I am in the same situation as you, i use LOCA but want to move towards OCA. I know everything that is required, start-up costs are high though.

Maybe we can talk if you are based in the UK? email me at GizmoWishlist@gmail.com

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Hi I am based in the UK and wanting to go down this route too. Iphone 6, 6+ and Samsung screens are still quite pricey so I now have all the loca and oca, so just in the process of making a high pressure vacuum pump and chamber! If anyone can help or advice please feel free to email me at mario29021980@hotmail.co.uk

Maybe we can help each other :)

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C the comment below for a low cost highly efficient solution.

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I have been doing glass only screen repairs using LOCA for just over a year, and am also thinking of moving up to using OCA. Firstly, I don't use LOCA in the phone's frame, I remove the LCD from the phone and manually align it. Yes I can remove LCD's from all the Samsung Galaxy range.

I want to start using OCA for the following reasons:

- No need to take LCD/AMOLED out of the frame, saving time, and money on adhesive.

- With LCD screens, no need to remove backlight to prevent LOCA leakage. No need to replace backlight, especially with iPhone 6's where backlight is very hard to remove and reuse. And some phones I can't find replacement backlights.

- No returns or discounts due to LOCA uncured, or backlight leakage.

- Less clean up.

I think the method by dannyp1987 is unnecessary, if like me you rarely get bubbles in your LOCA to begin with.

I have tried using OCA by just heating it up with a heat gun and trying to liquefy it slightly, but didn't work.

PS: I think the OP is in Far North Queensland (Australia).

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Hi Joshua Rayner,

Can you guide me little bit. I want to start this glass only repair and need help in buying the equipment.

Thanks

Asif

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you still need to remove the lcd from the frame when you use OCA.

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removing lcd from iphone - no problem!

For samsung - can use oca without removing lcd!

Just remove broken glass, clean LCD, roll OCA sheet on new glass and place to LCD in phone frame.

Use "hand-laminating" and next autoclave to remove remaining bubbles!

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I agree with Edgar57, I was thinking exactly the same way!

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Anybody tried to apply LOCA with adjustable pipettor(adjustable ml amount)?

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Discovered: most good for removing/cleaning lcd glue is xylol (Klean-Strip)!!!

Much better than debonding liquid(for lcd cleaning) from Aliexpress!

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Me too is interested in this OCA, rather than LOCA.

Is this thread dead?

It seems strange!

I 'attempted' it too and yes LOCA is a messy business and also makes you work a lot for the same profit.

I believe 80% of the tools advertised to do it are un-necessary really, maybe if/when the business picks up THEN it might be worth buying automated and better gear.

Anyone wishes add anything?

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I'm about to purchase an autoclave and some OCA. I'll update you once I have some progress, and the machine from China. LOCA for me is just too messy, but with parts prices being so insane right now ($65 iPhone 5 lcd anyone?) Refurbishing is extremely profitable.

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Hi there i have just purchased all the equipment needed for oca glass repairs i will keep you updated wether it is good or not! Cheers!

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How much did you spend? Can you buy any Autoclave, or does it have to be a specific vacuum one? An autoclave used for sterilisation references "steam", and I'm not sure if that is that same type needed for oca bubble removal...

Looked at a few AUD$500 autoclaves, but not sure if these are appropriate, and if I need a separate vacuum pump. :S

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Hi

I have purchased the bubble remover

it's the mini bubble remover.I have tried removing the bubbles from LCD obviously using OCA. However the temperature is set to 60 degree's and time 10 mine still not much of result. I have tried 8 minutes and 40 degrees won't have it.Really need some advise as that's the last thing needed for refurbished LCD ,it take me 60 second to remove glass honesty and cleaning 2 minutes ,just the OCA is taking step back would appreciate advise thank you

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I use 45-60C max for 20-40 minutes. Sometimes if more bubbles, repeatt cycle!

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@ Edgar 5 thank you for advise seems a very long time for 1 LCD,40 minutes il try 20 as not as many bubbles appear when iv done 10 minutes cycle :-)

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Today discovered with IP6:

1. OCA to glass with hand silicone-roll,

2. OCA+glass to autoclave for 10 min 45C

3. again rolling

4. OCA+glass to LCD in mold

5. finally LCD+OCA+glass to vacuum press for 4min and vacuum time 1min / no bubbles

6. back to autoclave(for sure) for 20min/ 0.5-0.6Mpa

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I been doing screen refurbishing for 4 years now and i can tell all of you are making mistakes here's a clue remove the polarizer and apply a new one to prevent bubbles when installing the OCA sheet theres more steps that you can imagen to get it perfect plus i wont be giving free info is not free. Go to a Glass Refurbishing School is worth the money you spend and you will get that back fast!

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@xterminal thank you I'm not sure about glass refurbishing school in uk if your aware of any just let me know thank you

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I am also in the uk and would be interested in the glass refurbishing school. I just started playing with loca today and know there is a finesse i need to learn.

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I would guess, it does not exists?

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You can always contact irefurbishlcd he will be willing to come down to uk to teach you guys.

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LOCA is by far the best I believe from personal experience. It's cheaper, stronger and it also fill scratches on the lcd. Of course LOCA is very hard to master. You have to know the exact ammount you need, you must not use too much for it will go under backlight (specially on Iphone6) and it requires UV lamp. BUT, its much more efficient for avoiding bubbles and it gives you the chance to center the glass as many times you want before using UV on it. So the best way to get the bubbles out would be with a vacuum chamber....unfortunately they are expensive and to make one isn't the simpliest thing to do since the items you re gonna need to make one might even cost at the end more than the already assembled one. Fear not cause you can perform a vacuum process with just 30$...or even less. Get a vacuum gun, the one your mom uses to store food in those vacuum bags. Get the glue on the lcd, place the glass on it, put some kind of plastic clips in order to hold the glass and the lcd together (or put it very careful in the vacuum bag), and start sucking the air with the gun very very slowly. Don't suck all the air at once cause glue will eventually will flow out and make a huge mess inside the bag and probably damage you backlight. I use this method and believe it does the same job as a vacuum chamber and even faster than it. After you have sucked the air and the bag is tight, place the UV lamp on top of it and leave it until it dries off. Best solution so far I got and it works like a charm. Make some practice before starting using to master the technique. Hope that helped.

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I am still very new at the glass refurbishment but is there a process or technique to not have any bubbles from the start. I have tried about 10 screens so far and even when I go very slow there are always bubbles. Second question is how to judge the amount of glue to use? Thank you

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Well another technique is to get empty small syringes from a pharmacy and put the glue in them and let them stand upside down overnight so all the bubbles will emerge on the top and the next day before applying the glue u just push out all the extra air and bubbles that have been concentrated on top. Also VERY important when applying the glue, apply it on X shape (you can find videos on youtube on how this looks like) and when applying the new glass never EVER put it all at once and of course DONT force it to sit. Let the glass create the flow and be patient before let it go. You must hold the glass and let it go down little by little. For glue ammount I usually use from 2 to 5ml of LOCA but that depends on the screen size (Samsung S4 mini = 2-2,5ml Samsung S5 5-6ml) But overall you ll get your judgment over time and after practicing.

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You need to bring the glass down onto the loca at an angle, not straight down. The smaller the first point of contact is, the less chance of bubbles.

If I draw an elongated X pattern with the loca, I will bring the glass down on 1 point of the X only. I push down the glass in that corner, and hold it up at the other end, so it's coming down at a 10degree angle, and only hitting the glue at one point. Then I slowing lower the rest of the glass.

You only want the glue to kiss the glass at 1 point, and then slower move over the rest of the glass.

The more points of contact there are, the more chance of bubbles.

Use a spudger to gently lower the glass.

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Also, I don't use anywhere near as much loca as Mr Yannis has suggested. A 50ml tube usually gets me 20-25 screens done. That's ranging from 4" to 5.5" displays.

I probably use ~3ml on an S5 screen (5.1")

If you're not as experienced, and you're not working on a screen with a backlight, then more is probably safer.

The biggest issue with putting too little on, is if you get a bubble. Trying to squeeze out bubble/s will result in squeezing out glue as well.

The issue with using too much, is wastage, mess, and too thick a screen assembly when done. This can leave the glass sitting up from the bezel of the phone, or not sticking down to the adhesive.

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For the record, I forgot to mention one thing. LOCA glue varies. I use a thicker glue than the usual you on youtube and websites, because it does help when replacing the glass for the glue not to get into cracks or the backlight. Thus the ammount I use is more than what Josh Rayner recommends and he's right, the most common glues used in the market are TP-2000-2500, YU-2000-2500. At least what I see nowdays.

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Can't you just repair cracked screen with vacuum chamber and resin? If u put the uv resin on the crack and then vacuum the whole phone till it penetrates crack then uv the glue? Would that work?

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No, that sounds rubbish. I assume you're talking about cracked screens that only have 1 or 2 cracks in in, not heavily cracked/smashed screens.

People want cracked screens repaired for various reasons:

1. Visual. I doubt your suggestion will leave the glass looking perfect, most likely you will still be able to see the cracks.

2. Digitizer touch function no longer works due to crack. Your suggestion will no fix the digitizer.

3. Glass shards, hazardous. Your suggestion may fix this, if it's only 1 or 2 cracks.

I have never heard of any techniques like this before to simply repair the existing glass. All screen glass repair usually involves replacing the glass panel, as it's the cheapest part of the screen. Trying to glue the existing glass back together sounds silly.

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Wow definitely no. And know that resin isn't crystal clear after it becomes solid. and I believe after it dries up touch won't be available on the spot you have resin.

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UPDATE: So forget what I said before. Resin does work just fine but not with the method said above by dmg. Believe it or not I used a resin kit repair for windshields with a special suction cup and a syringe containing the resin. Problem is you have to be quite gentle when doing this on a screen since you need to apply some amount of presure to force the resin into the glass and that might lead to cracking the screen more but if you do it correctly the resin will get in the cracks then you secure the the valve on the suction cup and leave it dry. Once dried take off the cup and use a razor blade to clean any remains and polish it with some isopropyl to take off any marks. Please also note I did this on a screen which was still attached on the phone cuz I believe when its firmed on the bezel it can take more resistance than if it would if it was off.

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Hey Guys!

If you have tried LOCA and have seen somewhat good results. Stick to that method. Keep using it and getting better.

I worked at a major distributor with the very expensive machines ($20K) and even they can't completely get bubbles out sometimes. They also get tutored directly from China for spending so much money on them. This is something they simply won't bother to do when you spend $2000 on one of those machines..

There are TOO many things to factor.

- What Temp is it in your work area?

- How high are you from Sea level?

LOCA is messy and you need to be patient.. but it also requires less accuracy

It fills in scratches

You do not have to replace polarizer in some circumstances

You can reuse the backlight with a good process in place.

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By no means am I saying to not attempt it or saying it's too hard. I just feel sometimes people resort to OCA thinking it will be an easier less hassle process. Not always the case.

I'm sure you can get very good at it.

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I totally agree with Michael R and I am waiting for a iPhone 6 4.7" mould - I prefer to work with a mould.

The 2 critical parts are the 'removing' of the shattered glass and the LOCA glueing.

I did give a good try one and a half years ago and it was 50-50 = BAD, but I saw it was doable with practice.

But in the last few months I am getting back and self-train myself to find the best method 'for me'!

We all are different and something simple for me, might be difficult for others and vice-versa.

It is the same with Tools, often I make my own special ones!

The fact you need to keep it 10-20 minutes in the Autoclave, tells me all I needed to know and you can still get bubbles.

Glad you confirmed my suspects - the ££££ tools to do the job 'supposedly' professionally is one of many other flops and a marketing tool to sell not-necessarily-needed equipment.

Look at many Soldering Irons etc. around - you DO NOT need 90% of them and it all depends on your 'innate' [you were born with] abilities and of course you can grow and learn new ways of doing 'things'!

I am exactly trying to do that ASAP - LOCA glueing and find my way of doing it.

NICE post !

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I've done screen refurb first with loca and now using oca with a komag machine

Loca:

Has anyone tried sealing the backlight? I used to use silicone sealant around the edges of the lcd where the backlight meets the glass. You can also use copydex latex adhesive. iPhone 6 is tricky though because there's very little bezel around the backlight to absorb the glue.

When squeezing the glue out to the edges, use central pressure only and watch the glue flow itself right to the edges. To do the corners, apply pressure to the top centre / bottom centre for a few seconds so the glue flows back inward toward the centre, then release. It'll flow perfectly into the corners with minimal seep.

Use xfactor or aps loca only.

Uv light fur 10 secs

Use a paintbrush and a baby wipe to sweep up the excess round the edges while it's still wet, then cure for 5 mins

Oca

Best results with Mitsubishi sheets and polarisers

Cheap ones cause bubbles and low touch sensitivity

Sometimes small bubbles after autoclave disappear on their own overnight

The rest of my knowledge is secret

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"The rest of my knowledge is secret"

Well that's not very helpful :P We are all here to learn and work more efficiently, not hoard secrets.

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I'm selling a machine

850.00

If interested contact me lovephonesrepairs@gmail.com

07446868686

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Anybody knows what are the best glass are there yo use or mostglass will do?

For iphones

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I tried LOCA first and you can forget that junk! Too messy, too time consuming. I got the OCA sheets and ran into the bubble issues. No matter how careful I was it seems I always have bubbles. Now I have the autoclave and with no success. The machine comes with instructions all in Chinese and I'm wondering if there's a setting that I have set wrong. I'm not sure if I have the temp right or wrong. I was under the impression you need 60 psi at 20 mins. The first 2 or so seemed to work but the longer they sat after being in the autoclave small tiny bubbles seam to appear out of no where. I'm thinking the temp may be wrong. It was preset at 100. I'm thinking maybe it's not getting hot enough to remove the bubbles. I think someone posted around 140 is the right temp. So I guess I'll try that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I do this way:

1. OCA to glass with hand silicone-roll, 2. OCA+glass to autoclave for 10 min 45C(full pressure) 3. again rolling 4. OCA+glass to LCD in mold 5. finally LCD+OCA+glass to vacuum press for 4min and vacuum time 1min / no bubbles 6. back to autoclave(for sure) for 15-20min/ 0.5-0.6Mpa

NB!

Pay attention to nr.1 item!

Dont press too much upper and bottom edges of oca sheet! Mbye dont press at all (ca 0,5cm).

As you see there is a very tiny edging border around the transparent area of the glass. If you seal the OCA aginst this edging - bubbles can not go out over this. This will fixed in autoclave!

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Just so you know. Yes it will be easy to remove bubbles with the LCD to glass laminator. BUT! If you do small scale 5 to 15 screens a day you do not need the laminator at all it is just an expensive machine. Use a mold at all times.. Work your way up the screen and you can squeeze something on top of the screen to make sure you do not have the top sticking first. If it does stick before you get to it, you will not be able to remove the bubbles in the autoclave. And autoclave should be 120 psi at 60 degree Celsius. This works good for iPhone 5 series and 6.

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Ok. So we got a more powerful air compressor. Now when we use 120 psi on 60 degrees for 15 mins it works. Some of the tougher ones we cut the temp up and it gets those out better.

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Could one of you that have a good machine and is real good at this please share a youtube video with me on the whole process? We're thinking of purchasing an autoclave (around 5,000$ or so). I read some people use molds, some don't. I wanted to see a full video of someone with a decent machine doing the whole process, using the OCA, not the LOCA.

Thanks.

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Good topic guys nice to no your views I too am thinking of setting up a home repair shop I been doing the odd screen here and there for couple of years now mainly Samsung as iPhone parts were pretty cheep (not so cheep these days mind)I've always had good results using loca so trying to up my game to iPhone 5 and my few attempts been a bit of failure so far all my attempts end up with loca on the back light so looking in to things oca seams the way forward after reading all your threads I am more confused than I was when I started if laminator and autoclave ain't 100% reliable maybe mastering the loca is the answer I like the sound of the one comment of sealing up around the lcd so loca can't get behind the back light think I'll try something like that on my next attempt

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As for a autoclave which type do you guys use there seems to be a few types you can get special ones just for phones but obviously very expensive but there also hospital dental and tattoos palours all use autoclaves do you guys no what specific one is need for lcd repair is it just temp and vacuum for lcd as i have read some use steam and things so just a bit unsure what type of clave is used

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The autoclave you need is basically nothing more than a pressure chamber with a temperature regulator and pressure gauge. You can also add a timer but that's only if you need it for your own use.

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Sealing the backlight with silicone is effective for iPhone 4, semi effective for 5 series and useless for the 6.

Loca is too messy to really be practical these days, except for Samsung panels where it's more preferable as the panel is more fragile (they can break if you laminate oca sheets on them)

Therefore I use a 5 in 1 laminate and autoclave machine (it's called a ko mag) for iPhone and other LCD based phones and loca for the Samsung stuff.

The 5 in 1 machines have an air compressor and vacuum pump built in and require little maintenance.

Oca is best applied to glass first, then to the LCD. You can buy now the glass with oca attached, which minimise dust problems.

Autoclave temperature should be 40 degrees and for 16 minutes

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there are no bubble after i put it in the KO MAG...but after some time...small spots appear in the borders...usually 1 or 2 borders

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pls help me...i am unable to continue my business

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Hi. I have the same problem. Have you solved that?

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Sounds like too high a temperature and / or incorrect position of the oca sheet

Temperature should be 40 ish degrees, but because air is compressed in there you might find it as high as 60-70, so reduce the thermostat to 30-35 and check again.

The oca sheet I've found is better being applied to the glass so you can check there's enough overlap on the borders before bonding.

1/2mm all the way round is best

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these bubble which appear....strangely appear after 0.5-1 hrs of the de bubbling process some disappear after 7-8 hrs....reducing the temperature would solve the issue???

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Hello

I have to buy the machine Komax 12 inch

I did all the steps before tournament of use

I separated the lcd then I change the polarized then I glue the OCA on the glass

I assemble all

I press for 3 minutes at 95 degrees%

Then I put on my screen in the autoclave for 45 minutes at 82 psi

once I finished out the screen is nickel but a few minutes later there are plenty of micro bubbles especially at the edges

Or can come to my problem?

Maybe the oca movie that I have to buy on aliexpress?

can you told me a place where I can buy very good quality of oca?

What the best brand oca?

Or if you know the problem and think you know the resolve

ECLSG'd be nice to m helped because I am in distress

I appealed to specialists

Thank you thank you thank you very much

cordially

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I have just started using loca and all is going well for iPhone 5/5s/5c. the problem I am having is attaching a new bezel. I am using the bezels with pre applied hot glue. The top and bottoms attach ok I am just struggling with the sides. Does anyone have any tips for this?

Thanks

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Anyone need tips still? If you do list the machines you have I will tell you the right instructions.

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Hi Xterminal,

Are you familiar with the 2015 AK 2 in 1 laminating machine? I have run a couple sample screens and so far so good except for a few bubbles. The instructions I got don't say anything about settings ect. All they say is hit the start button and it should work ha ha

Any help here with the settings would be appreciated

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What do you have on your settings?

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Vacuum time : 15s

Lamination time: 14s

Debubbling time:720

Temp: 40c

Have also noticed that when the pressure first builds up it stops at 90 psi, after 6 mins it has already dropped to 60.

I'm assuming it's suppose to stay constant?

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First of all try these settings:

Vaccum Time: 17s

Lamination Time: 30s

Debubbling Time: 845

Temp: 47c

When you have these settings right, everytime your going to used it you must warm up the machine so close the lid and run it to warm it up and then try putting 1-3 screens and give it a try.

For The Psi is normal it runs automatic so don't adjust that

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I understand the psi is automatic but should it not stay at 90 for the whole ten mins? Sometimes it stays at 90 for the whole time. Other times it's down to 50psi after 5 mins

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I have this machine on the way, and hoping it works well for the bubble removing also.

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Can you publish a link to this machine website?

I am interested too.

Thanks

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Check out our machines https://stsparts.us/collections/types?q=...

They come with one year warranty and we stock them in the US!

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If you guys have questions about machinery and or techniques feel free to reach out to me or ask below! We distribute equipment here in the USA.

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@israel - “Reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated” Mark Twain..

Your presence has been missed, duly noted and now marked in my a Book as a possible slacker ;-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ndJNXCk...

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I have questions about the Al 2 in 1 plate type laminating machine. It continues to leave bubbles? Have tried different settings and nothing seems to remvoe them

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@jlprs try 60 seconds laminating time and 13 minutes debubbling.

If this doesnt work you must not be installing the OCA sheet right or your pressing on the glass to stick the OCA to lcd alot all you have to do is press the middle one time and throw it on the machine.

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I find the plastic on one side of the oca comes off very easy, the other side is hard to pull off.which side do you put on the glass? Or does it matter?

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@mayer I will make up for the lost time! hahah :)

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Hi. What is the best glue remover (debonder) to remove the glue under the polarize? Goof off some times damage the lcd and Alcohol isopropyl damage the touch. What is the safer way to avoid damage the lcd, touch and the lcd line?

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This is how we do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwRuEDAw...

This is the cleaner after we remove the glue leftover with the blade just to clean the screen off https://stsparts.us/products/contact-cle...

It works very well with us. Any other liquid while it might work it might damage your backlight.

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Hi. Thank you very much for your answer. Do you have a skype account? I would like to reward you to thank your answer, reward sharing with you another way to remove the polarizer that I think is safer than the way that your company does in the video. And today, some hours after I have done the question I have discovered another way to remove the glue under polarizer that I think is also the safer way, I can also share this another way.

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Fabio, can you tell us here how you do it?

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Sorry, my mistake. I did not discovered the best way... I have tried to remove the polarizer by the corners and using only blades or using the Glue/polarizer removing machine, but always loose the touch sensibility even if I do not paste a new polarizer... (Even if you do not paste a new polarizer you can test and see if the touch is working or not). Condutive past (silver past) will solve that?

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I have recorded a video that is possible to see the issue that I am talking about. At 2 seconds of the video is possible to see that the touch does not works very well, some times it works, some times does not work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4X-Dpty...

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Hello.

I have a question.

I work with LOCA but i have a problem.

I have a Samsung S4 Display that when i remove the glass i damage the polarizer.

If i use Laminator machine to apply the new polarizer will be bubbles or not? I can use LOCA on top to glue the glass and is that?

Thanks and sorry, i'm a newbie yet ;)

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Hey guys,

I also want to join this Business. I want to use LOCA cause it's cheap and I don't need any machines.

What do you guys think is the best method to prevent the Backlight from damaging through the LOCA glue? Is it really necessary to seperate the Backlight from the lcd? Cant i just remove the LOCA from the sides with some Kind of cleaning wipes or so?

Another question, how hot can an AMOLED get before the pixels go white and stop working? I thought of I hear up an AMOLED to 80 C or so, they break because of the organic in there?

Amd is 99% alcohol practical to remove the old glue on the lcd? Someone said the Touch sensitivity could eventually break as reason of the alcohol. And what is the best method to remove the old glue? With a Razer Blade, or with my fingers, or with a plastic Tool? What do you think?

And I saw Videos on YouTube where they didn't even remove the lcd from the phone, only the glass itself and put the LOCA and the new glass on(S7 Edge or so I think). Is it Bullshit or is it probably safer cause the Backlight cannot be reached by the LOCA?

Thanks for your answers and sorry for my bad english, im from Germany and only 15 years old ^-^

Henri

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The AMO"LED" hasn't backlight, each led/pixel emits its light

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Great questions I would like clear answers too!

Anyone care to help us make our ends meet and put food on the table - appreciated.

Thanks

;p]

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I am currently selling one of my OCA MACHINES it's new, everything works perfectly. Selling because i bought three but will only basically be using one. so if interested here's the link to it. asking $900.00 good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/291976663063?s...

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Which ones should i order, the ones with glass and frame allready glued together and oca allready glued ( like this :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lo... )

Or this one, where glass and back frame is separately and with no oca glued allready

item like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lo...

Sorry for the long links, Im new in this business and kinda confused what is what and which one would be better. Can anyone with experience explain all the goods and bads between those two? And which oca sheets I should prefer?

Thanks

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Links are the same.

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okay sorry, my fault. On the other link was front glass and mid frame separately. nothing else

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Block Image

This is the machine for.sale

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850.00, if interested please contact lovephonesrepairs@gmail.com

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fnqirepair will be eternally grateful.
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