Video Overview

Introduction

Today a new Xbox lands in our inbox, and that's a rare thing—though not as rare as it used to be. What makes the new Xbox One S a worthy mid-cycle update to Microsoft's console? Let's tear down this surprisingly slimmer, possibly speedier, appreciably sassier Xbox One and find out. Game on!

This teardown season is just getting started—add us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter and never miss a beat.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Xbox One S, use our service manual.

Image 1/2: Spec-bumped GPU supporting [http://www.wired.com/2016/01/what-is-hdr-tv/|HDR10|new_window=true] along with the same [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+Teardown/19718#s55247|AMD "Jaguar" 8-core SoC|new_window=true] found in the original Xbox One. Image 2/2: 2 TB of storage (500 GB and 1 TB configurations are coming)
  • You'd expect some differences from the Day One Edition Xbox One we tore down way back in 2013, and you'd be right. Here's what we know:

    • Spec-bumped GPU supporting HDR10 along with the same AMD "Jaguar" 8-core SoC found in the original Xbox One.

    • 2 TB of storage (500 GB and 1 TB configurations are coming)

    • HDMI 2.0a connectivity with support for 4K video at 60 Hz

    • Internal power supply

    • IR blaster

    • Fancy vertical stand (2 TB model only)

    • Redesigned Xbox Wireless Controller

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Image 1/3: Moving right along, we discover the Xbox One S is now identified as Model 1681. Image 2/3: In a design decision that takes us back to [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+Teardown/1308|consoles of old|new_window=true], this One features mechanical buttons in lieu of capacitive ones. Image 3/3: Gamers with a [https://www.reddit.com/r/xboxone/comments/218rek/tips_for_toddler_proofing_the_xbox_one_power/|toddler|new_window=true] or [https://www.reddit.com/r/xboxone/comments/2apdsu/my_dog_turned_off_my_xbox_one_on_purpose|wet-nosed pet|new_window=true] know the pain of the [https://xbox.uservoice.com/forums/253802-home-xbox-guide-and-settings/suggestions/6663983-the-ability-to-disable-the-power-button-on-the-con|ultra-sensitive power button|new_window=true] on the original Xbox One.
  • Etched into the starboard side of the Xbox One S, we find a cute reminder that this console still hails from the other tech capital of the West Coast: "Hello from Seattle," home of the Microsoft brigade.

  • Moving right along, we discover the Xbox One S is now identified as Model 1681.

  • In a design decision that takes us back to consoles of old, this One features mechanical buttons in lieu of capacitive ones.

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Image 1/3: Power inlet Image 2/3: HDMI out (left) and in (right) Image 3/3: Two USB 3.0 ports (in addition to the one on the front)
  • Around back, under the many vent holes we find:

    • Power inlet

    • HDMI out (left) and in (right)

    • Two USB 3.0 ports (in addition to the one on the front)

    • IR output, optical audio, and Ethernet ports

  • What about my Kinect, you ask? You can apply for a "free" Kinect USB adapter—provided you already own a Kinect, an original Xbox One, and the Xbox One S.

  • Our first act of teardown: tamper evident sticker removal. But no screws in sight, just the back of an immobile plastic clip. Bummer.

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  • We take a moment to reminisce about our old Xbox 360 Opening Tool, but decide our trusted iFixit Opening Tool would be of more use here.

  • Make that opening tools—because popping that plastic "security" nub takes a little extra oomph.

    • Do we like security clips? Not in a box. Not with a fox. Not in a house. Not with a mouse. We do not like them here nor there; we do not like them anywhere.

  • After some intense prying, we successfully remove the bottom cover, revealing a metal interior case.

    • These clips may be tough at first, but plastic is bound to bend or break, unlike a reusable screw. The next time you open your One S it may not clip back together...

I solved this problem with small white snap clips that you would use to hold auto plastic together

That Mac Guy - Reply

Image 1/3: Remember when Xbox was black and green and not a [https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81LZH0euz9L._SL1500_.jpg|Destiny bundle PS4|new_window=true]? Image 2/3: This One, more streamlined than its predecessor, doesn't feature any [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+Teardown/19718#s55236|weird, afterthought components|new_window=true] left out in the cold. Image 3/3: All that's left in the PC/ABS case are some button covers and  [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/IHBYMEgpbIlfG56j|Sabic and Samsung|new_window=true] logos—probably the plastic suppliers.
  • Some nostalgic green screws labeled F (for first?) free the primary assembly from the upper case.

  • This One, more streamlined than its predecessor, doesn't feature any weird, afterthought components left out in the cold.

  • All that's left in the PC/ABS case are some button covers and Sabic and Samsung logos—probably the plastic suppliers.

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Image 1/3: Somebody call the [https://youtu.be/3YiIxopZKpY|new_window=true|Jackson 5], 'cause identifying these numbered ''and'' labeled components is easy as 01-02-03 (and 04). Image 2/3: But wait—who's that we spy? Image 3/3: Master Chief has [http://giphy.com/gifs/tKSb4Lc5NzqEg/html5|arrived|new_window=true] on a new world, this time to protect the optical disc drive bracket. Hopefully [http://bit.ly/2auqwhA|new_window=true|the Flood] keeps out of this drive for good.
  • Lifting one metal midbody panel reveals a beautiful sight: such nice, sleek components that we are momentarily inclined to keep the cover off forever.

  • Somebody call the Jackson 5, 'cause identifying these numbered and labeled components is easy as 01-02-03 (and 04).

  • But wait—who's that we spy?

    • Master Chief has arrived on a new world, this time to protect the optical disc drive bracket. Hopefully the Flood keeps out of this drive for good.

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Image 1/3: With the front panel board's EMI shield removed, we quickly spy a lone IC and some of its friends: Image 2/3: MediaTek MT7632TUN (Likely a variation of [http://www.mediatek.com/en/products/connectivity/wifi/consumer-electronics1/mt7632/|MT7632|new_window=true] 2x2 802.11n + Bluetooth 4.0 Module) Image 3/3: Sync switch for wireless controllers
  • Much like the RF board on the Xbox One, the front panel board of the Xbox One S detaches outward from the lower case.

  • With the front panel board's EMI shield removed, we quickly spy a lone IC and some of its friends:

    • MediaTek MT7632TUN (Likely a variation of MT7632 2x2 802.11n + Bluetooth 4.0 Module)

    • Sync switch for wireless controllers

    • IR Blaster

    • Power Switch

    • Eject switch

Any chance ifixit will be supplying this board as is the case with the Xbox One version? I need one for... reasons.

Alex Leech - Reply

The horror, it's just a cut-cost version from the original. No tactile buttons because the ISD chip is missing. No power-up tunes or speaker for the same reason. The shielded connector is replaced by a cheap generic one.

Cheap Mediatek radios instead of Broadcom or Marvell.

Oh, and they have Apple complex, now using a black PCB.

David - Reply

Image 1/3: This is a nice incremental improvement over its location in the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wi-Fi+Board+Replacement/36779#s82213|previous Xbox One|new_window=true]—it makes for one less step to open the inner metal case. Image 2/3: Wi-Fi is handled by a MediaTek MT7612UN (Likely a variation of [http://www.mediatek.com/en/products/connectivity/wifi/home-network/usb-dongle/mt7612u/|MT7612U|new_window=true] 2x2 802.11ac Wi-Fi Module) Image 3/3: Wi-Fi is handled by a MediaTek MT7612UN (Likely a variation of [http://www.mediatek.com/en/products/connectivity/wifi/home-network/usb-dongle/mt7612u/|MT7612U|new_window=true] 2x2 802.11ac Wi-Fi Module)
  • Next up on the teardown chopping block is the Wi-Fi board. After removing a few Torx screws, it comes quietly just like the front panel board before it.

    • This is a nice incremental improvement over its location in the previous Xbox One—it makes for one less step to open the inner metal case.

    • Wi-Fi is handled by a MediaTek MT7612UN (Likely a variation of MT7612U 2x2 802.11ac Wi-Fi Module)

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Image 1/3: Oddly enough, despite being labeled 04, the hard drive is the first component out. Image 2/3: The labels are likely numbered according to assembly, rather than the disassembly. Image 3/3: We find a ~~Samsung~~ Seagate Spinpoint M9T [http://www.seagate.com/www-content/support-content/samsung/internal-products/spinpoint-m-series/en-us/samsung-m9t-internal-ds.pdf|ST2000LM003|new_window=true] 2 TB 5400 RPM with 32 MB Cache SATA III 6.0 Gb/s hard drive. Try saying that ten times fast.
  • At this point, component removal is a bit of a hunt, so we extract some screws and see which component is freed first.

  • Oddly enough, despite being labeled 04, the hard drive is the first component out.

    • The labels are likely numbered according to assembly, rather than the disassembly.

  • We find a Samsung Seagate Spinpoint M9T ST2000LM003 2 TB 5400 RPM with 32 MB Cache SATA III 6.0 Gb/s hard drive. Try saying that ten times fast.

  • Sadly, hard drive replacements still void the warranty, and need some tricky formatting.

    • The One S packs a sweet SATA III drive, but it may still be using the SATA II interface of the original Xbox One. You can always add an external hard drive though, thanks Microsoft!

can you change it to a SSD tho?

goldenboy945 - Reply

Is this hard drive any different than the one in the original?

Randy - Reply

would love to know the answer if this drive is any better than the original. with the sata 3 port, i was almost sure the drive would be comparable to the hd in the elite.

lord - Reply

I have successfully changed the hard drive to ssd in mine

That Mac Guy - Reply

Image 1/3: Here we have the [http://photobarone.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/artist-formerly-known-as-prince.jpeg|artist formally known|new_window=true] as a BD-ROM drive, courtesy of Philips and Lite-On Digital Solutions. The DG-6M5S model found in the Xbox One S is slightly different from the [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+Teardown/19718#s55240|DG-6M1S] found in the Xbox One, with the biggest upgrade being support for [http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/ultra-hd-blu-ray-specs-dates-and-titles/|BD-UHD|new_window=true]. Image 2/3: We also snag a couple rubber bumpers. These probably help keep the high-speed optical drive from rattling us off our rockers. Image 3/3: We also snag a couple rubber bumpers. These probably help keep the high-speed optical drive from rattling us off our rockers.
  • The next to go is number two: the optical drive—too easy! Master Chief is of course along for the ride.

  • Here we have the artist formally known as a BD-ROM drive, courtesy of Philips and Lite-On Digital Solutions. The DG-6M5S model found in the Xbox One S is slightly different from the DG-6M1S found in the Xbox One, with the biggest upgrade being support for BD-UHD.

  • We also snag a couple rubber bumpers. These probably help keep the high-speed optical drive from rattling us off our rockers.

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Image 1/3: [https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/PlayStation+4+Teardown/19493#s54783|Welcome to the club|new_window=true], Xbox One. Image 2/3: An external power supply is much easier to replace than an internal one. So lets hope Microsoft did their homework to mitigate that need! Image 3/3: This power supply also accepts 100-240 V inputs, meaning you can take it pretty much anywhere there's a socket. Take that, [http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/about-power-supply|Xbox One|new_window=true]!
  • Now we come to the One S's hat trick (a.k.a. #03)—a smaller, newly-fanless, neatly-integrated power supply. Gone is that dangling anchor of yore.

  • An external power supply is much easier to replace than an internal one. So lets hope Microsoft did their homework to mitigate that need!

  • This power supply also accepts 100-240 V inputs, meaning you can take it pretty much anywhere there's a socket. Take that, Xbox One!

  • The power supply connects with what PC gamers will instantly recognize as a perfectly ordinary, 6-pin PCIe connector.

Is this USA version? All Xbox One S has accepts universal voltage 100-240?

Raghu J - Reply

Does Xbox One S from USA supports 100-240 V?

Raghu J - Reply

So if I buy an European version I can use it in US without any trouble or add-on needed?

attom666 - Reply

Is there a way to reset this manually. Mine won't turn on after I plugged it into a surge protector. Xbox support says they won't take it back due to tampering

Ian Mai - Reply

Image 1/2: A springy, X-shaped bracket secures the heat sink to the motherboard—a signature part we've seen in every Xbox since the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+360+CPU+Heat+Sink+Replacement/3341#s16056|original 360]. Image 2/2: The "X" is a bit fussy and takes some muscle,  but some practiced prying with a flathead driver saves the day.
  • Things are heating up in the teardown room, but we can't extract the "Thermal System" just yet. So we lift the whole dang motherboard assembly out of the metal casing.

  • A springy, X-shaped bracket secures the heat sink to the motherboard—a signature part we've seen in every Xbox since the original 360.

  • The "X" is a bit fussy and takes some muscle, but some practiced prying with a flathead driver saves the day.

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Image 1/2: Out comes the system's single 120 mm fan—looking much like a PC case fan, but with some sculpting that's unique to the Xbox One's design. Image 2/2: The standard Xbox One had a similarly robust cooling setup, possibly designed to avoid a repeat of the Xbox 360's [http://www.forbes.com/sites/davidthier/2015/07/09/the-1-billion-hardware-failure-that-nearly-killed-the-xbox/#69304db65030|billion dollar problem|new_window=true].
  • With the component countdown nearly complete, it's time to extract part number 01: the thermal system.

  • Out comes the system's single 120 mm fan—looking much like a PC case fan, but with some sculpting that's unique to the Xbox One's design.

    • The standard Xbox One had a similarly robust cooling setup, possibly designed to avoid a repeat of the Xbox 360's billion dollar problem.

  • The backup for the One S's biggest fan is an impressive aluminum heat sink and copper heat pipe set. Cool.

For the size of the case that is one big heatsink and fan. Hopefully it allows the One S to operate fairly quietly. It's kind of ridiculous how much smaller the PS4 compared to the original Xbox One especially when you factor in the external power supply, but the PS4 does run very hot and loud compared to the One.

Hampus Jensen - Reply

That's the trade off. The larger the fan, the lower the RPM's needed. PS4's fan is a side venting fan, which is loud as !&&*.

crossedsabrescod -

Is the heatsink the same as the one found in the original xbone?? because if it is then can't they run the fan at an even slower speed due to the decreased heat output of the new chip??

marshalljosh - Reply

We can see that it has 4 PINs = PWM fan, means that they can run at slower speed based on selected sensors. However, sensors can be temperature of the board or processor or any other.

DX helios -

The 'new' chip doesn't run hotter. I'ts made using a smaller process (14nm instead of 20something I believe) which lets it run cooler, even with the 7% bump to the GPU.

Mike Caddick -

The fan is actually larger than the original. 112mm compared to 120mm.

John -

The problem with the PS4 is it might be thin but its really too deep. I find it really hard to fit on my shelf and I would have preferred it to be twice as tall and an inch or too less deep. It would also have helped fit a larger fan I expect.

I didn't like the original Xbox One especially the external PSU, but it looks like the S is a very nice refined design.

alexatkin - Reply

Can someone tell me the thickness of the fan? I know its 120mm wide, but I want to try to replace it with a PC fan with some modding. also, I see its a PWM 4-pin fan, which is good, but will it run any old fan?

keyannorth - Reply

Does anyone know if there is a voltage limit to the fans power socket?

That Mac Guy - Reply

Image 1/1: X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA (Includes 1.75 GHz AMD "Jaguar" 8-core CPU + overclocked 914 MHz AMD Radeon Graphics GPU)
  • Now on to our One true love, chips!

    • X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA (Includes 1.75 GHz AMD "Jaguar" 8-core CPU + overclocked 914 MHz AMD Radeon Graphics GPU)

    • 16 x Samsung SEC 549 K4W4G1646E-BC1A 4 Gb (512 MB) "gDDR3" SDRAM (total of 16 x 512 MB = 8 GB)

    • X861949-005 T6WD5XBG-0003 Southbridge

    • Toshiba THGBMFG6C1LBAIL 8 GB eMMC NAND Flash

    • ON Semiconductor NCP4205 GASUY1614 (Likely an iteration of the NCP4204 GAC1328G Integrated Power Control IC found in the Xbox One)

    • Texas Instruments SN75DP159 6 Gb/s DP++ to HDMI Retimer

    • STMicroelectronics GK009619

SAMSUNG K4W4G1646E-BC1A should be GDDR3 not DDR3.

JJ Wu - Reply

You're right! Thanks. We've updated the step and added a link to Samsung's product guide with additional info on that chip.

Jeff Suovanen -

Any chance you could give a measurement of the dimensions of the "X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA "? I'm trying to get a good idea of how big the shrink was (the last one was 363 mm2). I'm hoping the changes didn't add many transistors since I do already have a source for that info on the original (I think it was ~5 billion though obviously there's some rounding).

Patrick Wise - Reply

Never mind, Eurogamer has not measured it at 240mm2. Thank you anyway.

Patrick Wise -

Image 1/1: Realtek RTL8111HM (Likely an iteration of the [http://www.realtek.com.tw/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=5&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=11|RTL8111|new_window=true] gigabit Ethernet Controller)
  • And on the back of the motherboard...is not much really.

    • Realtek RTL8111HM (Likely an iteration of the RTL8111 gigabit Ethernet Controller)

    • Oh and that handy front-side USB port—which is on the opposite end and opposite side from its friends, poor guy.

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Image 1/3: While we are disappointed by the lack of visible screws, we will celebrate a small concession: the batteries are still user-replaceable! (Looking at you, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/DualShock+4+Battery+Replacement/22074#s58096|DualShock 4|new_window=true]). Image 2/3: Using our recent console expertise, we bust out the trusty opening tools and pop off some white paneling, finding some sneaky Torx ''security'' screws. Boo. Image 3/3: Not only that, but a final Torx security screw is hiding under the battery compartment sticker. Double boo.
  • Now on to the controller!

  • While we are disappointed by the lack of visible screws, we will celebrate a small concession: the batteries are still user-replaceable! (Looking at you, DualShock 4).

  • Using our recent console expertise, we bust out the trusty opening tools and pop off some white paneling, finding some sneaky Torx security screws. Boo.

  • Not only that, but a final Torx security screw is hiding under the battery compartment sticker. Double boo.

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Image 1/3: But once we start to extract the beast, we see the truth: Unless you're handy with a soldering iron, this is an all-or-nothing disassembly procedure. Image 2/3: We decided to pick option "all" and just lay everything out, still connected. Image 3/3: Beauty is only skin-deep, and so too are this controller's physical changes. Inside, it's largely the same design as the original Xbox One controller—our [https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Xbox_One_Wireless_Controller|guides|new_window=true] should be relevant for both models.
  • Popping off those plastic panels reveals what looks like a neat little assembly, complete with four haptic feedback motors.

  • But once we start to extract the beast, we see the truth: Unless you're handy with a soldering iron, this is an all-or-nothing disassembly procedure.

    • We decided to pick option "all" and just lay everything out, still connected.

  • Beauty is only skin-deep, and so too are this controller's physical changes. Inside, it's largely the same design as the original Xbox One controller—our guides should be relevant for both models.

The new controller added Bluetooth to its existing WiFiDirect connection. Any notes on that?

Brian Hoyt - Reply

With regards to the "Inside, it's largely the same design" comment. I've had two original controllers and an Elite controller that developed left stick drift. Are the joystick boxes any different in the One S controller or are they the same crappy part? TIA.

Kooshmoose S - Reply

Yeah, I'd like to know if the stick assemblies use the same grey plastic clips that eventually pop off after wear and tear. Can you answer please?

John debray - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • That's a wrap! Time to lay out the parts and calculate a repairability score.

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Final Thoughts
  • Only a few tools are required to take the whole console apart.
  • Once inside, a clean, no-nonsense modular design allows the drives, fan, heat sink, PSU, wireless board, and front daughterboard to be easily replaced.
  • Fewer interlocking body panels and a simpler clip arrangement make opening this generation of Xbox easier than its senior.
  • Replacing the hard drive will require both voiding your warranty and some difficult hackery to make it serviceable.
Repairability Score
8
Repairability 8 out of 10
(10 is easiest to repair)

41 Comments

My question is whether the SATA controller on the motherboard is a SATA III interface; the tear down guide (which is great btw!) only mentions that the 2TB hard drive itself is SATA III. According to the Xbox One (original) tear down guide and this tear down guide, both the Xbox One and Xbox One S use the same south bridge; which would imply that the Xbox One S is only capable of SATA II speeds, regardless of the fact it holds a SATA III drive.

Chris Parks - Reply

I Googled the X861949 southbridge and it's the exact same one as in the first Xbone.

Bob Hobalob -

It hardly matters; no HDD is going to get anywhere near the limits of the SATA II bus, let alone the SATA III bus. You need a seriously fast SSD to start seeing a difference there, and AFAICT the XBone's OS isn't set up to do TRIM, which would limit the lifespan.

Auretus Auror -

wonder about the possibility of cloning the HDD to a SSD. has anyone tried this yet?

chrisrosa - Reply

I hope someone tries it because I want to know if it can be done.

John -

An user cloned his 500gb hdd on a 500gb SSD and it worked, not sure if cloning a source bigger than the target will still do the trick.

Alex Com -

I can confirm it will work. I have the original model Xbox One and put a 2TB hard drive in there, no issues. It's not even as hard as these guys make it sound. You just plug your original hard drive into a computer and make an image of it ("dd" style image, I use Win32DiskImager on Windows for it), then write the image back to your new drive.

If the new drive is larger (which is generally the whole point), boot up GParted and enlarge the data partition. They are all NTFS, no proprietary stuff like the 360. Worked first try.

Danny -

http://www.ludvikjerabek.com/2014/07/14/...

I used this tutorial when I changed my Xbox One's 500gb hard drive to a Seagate 1tb sshd hybrid drive(Pretty much the same disk that MS use in Xbox One elite console). I would recommend this operation to everyone who fully understand the instructions and are willing to sacrifice the warranty.

GrimlandDomain -

Yes, I put a samsung evo 850 500gb ssd internally in my xbox. The clone process is fairly simple. A little linux knowhow is required. However, I don't know if the XB1 supports trim.

And Fallout 4 see's a significant decrease in load times. It's actually playable now. 15-20 second load time vs 1-2 minutes

Daryl Krans -

A SATA III hard drive does not make a SATA III system. The southbridge is the same, so I assume still limited to SATA II.

tipoo - Reply

There is one thing that is not clear to me about this teardown. Does the One S motherboard have a SATA3 port or is it only the Seagate HDD that has the SATA3 port? Also, the controller was dismissed as being the same, but it's definitely not the same as the original Xbox One controller from 2013. It has a headphone jack, Bluetooth, different bumpers, and a textured grip.

John - Reply

so it has a separate wifi N chip for the controllers? that explains why they need a separate proprietary adaptor for pc use, also using SATA II while having usb 3 is pretty odd, not to mention this thing seems to be at least on par with modern 2013 APU systems, now down to 16nm, the psu is a lot smaller it seems it barely uses half the wattage of before thanks to the process shrink

esphack - Reply

The GPU is not the one that the original xbox one has . Xbox one S has a new GPU polaris 11, most likely the RX 460 with h.265 hardware acceleration. The system is codenamed "Durango Polaris".

Alex Com - Reply

I don't suppose you noticed where the IR sensor is (not the blaster) on this unit compared with the Xbox One?

philwherrett - Reply

The original xbox one doesn't have an IR blaster, you have to use kinect.

J Walker -

What are the xbox one s motherboard dimensions..

customvideogaming - Reply

What are the xbox one s motherboard dimensions

customvideogaming - Reply

Do you think the xbox one s can be water cooled? What kind of cpu waterblock can fit on it cause im going to experiment on the 500gb model...

Theodore N Moxie - Reply

https://imgur.com/a/EZuso Yes you can, with a bit of modification.

Andy Lund -

Do you think can the xox one s be watetcooled? What cpu waterblock can fit?

Theodore N Moxie - Reply

Just wanted to know the plastic is painted white or some kind of coating? Because when I recieved mine it had what appeared to be a hair that was stuck into the front next to the eject button going inside of the disc slot.Or it could of been a plastic burr from manufacturing it. At first I thought it was a crack but upon further inspection with a light I noticed it was a hair stuck into the surface texture of the front console. When I removed it a light line was left. It drives me nuts and only I can motice it from about 3 inches away. Wanted to know if it could be painted to match. Or should I just get over it. Thanks

jasonrhart151 - Reply

Pretty sure it has 8 gig DDR3 RAM not GDDR3.

salvador445 - Reply

You may be right. Samsung lists these chips as "gDDR3" (as opposed to GDDR3)—but if you read the fine print, it's not categorized as GDDR3 but rather SDDR3 SDRAM. It's possible Samsung is muddying the waters by using a product name with a lower case "g" that has nothing to do with the GDDR3 standard.

Jeff Suovanen -

Is the Xbox One fan compatible with the One S fan? Seems the looks like almost the same but...

yan - Reply

No it is not

That Mac Guy -

Aside of a marking on the power supply (110-240) did you actually try pluging in two different voltages?

Ilya Sakharov - Reply

if we bought Xbox One S from US, can we use it in Turkey? Do we need any other power supply to convert the voltage?

eseryasemin2015 - Reply

Can the power button be reorientated or is it fixed in there for good? I ask this because when i have my 2tb vertical using the stand the power button display really bugs me.

First Last - Reply

I may take mine apart and add lights to it, I'll also try and spin the button good shout.

J Walker -

I'd like to know if a PC will recognise the UHD-BD drive so we can get one step closer to cracking open a 4K disc...?

TheJahNix - Reply

Thanks to you guys I dared to open my noisy little X-Box and plant a PC fan in it. The noisiest part since is the new 2 TB HDD which I installed while the case was open. Pictures here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ap7h5FFmvMougR0R5fCx...

Philipp - Reply

Cool, excuse my ignorance - but does it plug straight into the xbox motherboard without any special soldering etc required?

ltb1986 -

No it doesn't. I had to cut the connector off of the original PC fan and the X-Box fan and reconnect them with 3M Scotchlok connectors. Since I am not an expert technician I simply guessed that it would be a standard PWM fan with a proprietary connector. After cutting the cables I connected the X-Box connector to the Noctua fan cables in the same order they left the fan motor of the X-Box fan (from left to right: Noctua: black, ye, gr, blue; X-Box all black). I hope you get what I am trying to say here, since English isnt my first language. I've played for a few hours since and I have no (heat) problems whatsoever.

Philipp -

Hi, I'm trying to decide whether or not to upgrade from the Xbox one, my main consideration is whether the 4k upscaling capabilities in the One S is superior to the Sony 4k processor X1 found in my TV (Sony KD55X8005CBU (SD:2).

I'm not concerned with HDR at the moment as my TV does not support it. I was looking for the "bit" in the Xbox one S teardown that's responsible for the upscaling so I could compare it, but after reading this I'm one the wiser :( Please don't take that the wrong way, it's not a criticism of the article, which I enjoyed it more than I thought possible from a tear down write up. Kind regards.

Lee - Reply

Which ones are the extra connectors (the white ones) of the Disk Drive and Hard Drive aside from the SATA connectors?

Erick - Reply

I Need An Power Supply Replacement And I Can't Seem To Locate A Website That Sells These Can Anyone Help me

DM Me At Me2MasterMods2.1@Gmail.com

MagNetic Mods - Reply

I've thought about replacing the internal HDD with an SSD to improve speed of the console and especially loading times of games. After I saw good youtube reviews of people using external SSDs attached via USB 3.0 I changed my mind and I added also an external SSD to my Xbox One S. I used "Samsung Extreme 500" SSD with a capacity of 240 GB (which is working fine even it shows only 230 usable in Xbox menu). Speed has increased! :-)

Anomen - Reply

I have done this.

That Mac Guy -

Hi,

i need de internal power supply to use in xbox one s...

"Microsoft Made in china

input: 100v-240v~1.8a, 50/60hz

Chicony Power Technology Co., LTD

Model: N15-120P1A

Rev:01

PN: X943284-004

SN: 1C21D188565619"

i have a picture

do you have this power supply?

how much to send to brasil in this adress?

king regards

Enrico

enrico_pedro - Reply

Does anyone know where I can locate a New HDMI port for the Xbox One S ? Seems like a difficult part to locate....

David Ruhs - Reply

My Xbox One Keeps Tripping Off And A Technician Claims It's My Processor But Can't Fix It . Please Can You Help Me Out?

Ohioze Oyakhire - Reply

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