Jon get a piece of 8.5x11 cardstock white paper and insert it into the documents port. It doesn't insert like a receipt you have to push it down into the scanner until it stops. At this point run the calibration then the clean cycle about 5 times and this will fix the problem. I had the same problems and once I figured out how to calibrate and clean it properly it works like a charm. I wasn't even getting an image after a scan I was also getting the grey band sometimes but this fixed it for me....good luck.

Hi Ames,

On your phone the lower speaker is integrated with the vibration motor, so you'd be replacing both of them. I've taken a look at it and as far as phone repairs go, it's a fairly simple fix. iFixit doesn't have a guide specifically for that repair, but the charging port guide has all the information you need, since you have to take the speaker/vibrator assembly out to get to the charging port.

Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra USB-C Port and Charging Board Replacement - iFixit Repair Guide

Basically you just have to follow the guide through to Step 25 and stop there. The guide shows taking out the wireless charging coil assembly and the speaker together, but you can also unplug the charging coil from the speaker before removing it if you want. I would suggest taking out the charging coil first, then moving to Step 26 to disconnect the battery before proceeding to removing the speaker. The Spanish site Nadie Me Llama Gallina has a guide specifically for that particular repair, but the only catch is that it is, as you might guess, written in Spanish. If you use it with the Chrome browser's translation feature it is quite usable and well written, though.

Manuals / Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra / Speaker Module with Built-in Haptic Vibrator - Nobody Calls Me Chicken

I personally prefer their guide simply due to the order of operations, but either one will get you through the job. I would strongly suggest you take the warning on Step 8 of the iFixit guide to heart; the back glass is indeed thin and easy to break (I speak from experience), so work slowly and use plenty of heat to keep that adhesive soft. If it's resisting don't force it; apply more heat and try again.

God luck and let us know how it all turns out!

I think Nick is on the right track here, but it looks like it may be a bit simpler than what he's proposing.

You can buy epoxy resin hobby kits that are used for casting molds; I remember making grape clusters when I was a kid. You can buy all kinds of different dyes to obtain whatever color you want. Basically, you mix the two parts of the epoxy, add in the color you want, then fill the missing triangle in your belt buckle. Once it dries, it'll be there permanently. The only part that will take some experimentation is getting the color matched; that will probably take quite a bit of trial and error. Here's an example of the kind of craft kit I'm talking about.

Amazon.com: LET'S RESIN Coaster Kit, 16oz DIY Epoxy Resin Kit with Molds and Mica Powder Complete Set, Crafts for Adults, Beginners, Ideal Starter DIY Art Supplies Gift Set for Adults

Our product team has looked into the issue. Based on the description, it sounds like the filter may be clogged. We recommend trying to replace the filter and seeing if that resolves the problem.

For instructions, you can refer to the “How To” guide for a similar model (G10 Combo):

👉 https://www.dreametech.com/pages/G10-com...

If the issue persists after replacing the filter, please feel free to share more detailed photos so we can further assist you, or visit our Reddit group!

Hi @esarbe

With the laptop turned on and no display, try shining a torch at an angle close to the screen and check for any images. They will be very faint so trying this in a darkened room may help to see them if they are there.

If they are then then there's a backlight problem with the screen.

Since it is a new motherboard and assuming that the display is OK first check if the backlight power fuse F2 on the motherboard is OK and hasn't blown for some reason. If the fuse is blown it is a 3A_32V_ERBRD3R00X fuse. The backlight power is fed to pins 13 and 14 of the LCD connector (video cable)

There is always backlight power supplied to the screen and it is turned on and off in the screen by a signal voltage sent on the Backlight_On lead which appears on pin 23 of the LCD connector. This signal is controlled by the BIOS/OS and the backlights can be turned off for instance if the lid sensor detects if the lid is closed or if the OS goes into sleep mode etc.

here's an image form the schematic that may help with the backlights if that's what it is.

(click on image to enlarge)

Here's the schematic for the motherboard (if it is a Lenovo X270 NM-B061 R04 board) that may help you further.

I have no idea why the LEDs are flickering but if the laptop works OK other then the display of course, it may be a problem with the power supply that feeds the LEDs. Hopefully the schematic will help track it down.

Hopefully a start.

Looks like the device ad5860 is also known as the Sakonnet chip, part of the Taptic Engine. However, the signals for it go through the charging port flex, and in at least one other case almost exactly like yours, replacing the lightning port flex cable assembly fixed the issue. I'll let you read for yourself.

SOLVED: iPhone Xr randomly bootloop at random moment - iPhone XR - iFixit

You see that ring of dots around the camera bezels? Those are marks from a spot welder - mini micro edition. The bezels are spot welded on, meaning there's no simple or easy way to remove them. They can be torn off with brute force, or ground off with a Dremel-type tool, but no matter how you get it off, then you're left with the question of how to put a replacement back on? Nobody I know has a spot welder like the one Apple uses, but maybe you could get away with one like they use for battery terminals; obviously it won't be as neat as the original welding job, but it could theoretically work. I suppose you could superglue it in, but of course you'd want to remove the back glass panel from the phone before doing anything; wouldn't want to take a chance on getting glue in the camera itself.

Basically there is no really good option for you here, Jairus. Besides the difficulty of the job itself, I'm not aware of any vendor actually selling those bezels.

Ordinarily I'd suggest just replacing the back panel, but of course Apple strikes again with their parts pairing; the rear panel is almost certainly paired to the motherboard and will complain bitterly and permanently if you replace it with an aftermarket part. If you're up to date with iOS 18 there's the Repair Assistant that will let you pair a genuine Apple rear panel to your phone. As long as the phone it came from isn't reported lost or stolen, you can pair a used part, so it doesn't have to be new, purchased directly from Apple, but it does have to be a genuine Apple part no matter what.

Wow, talk about a mess of problems!

Seriously, although it sounds like you're having all sorts of issues, IMHO you've really only got two; the reboots and your screen. Let's address the screen first.

We've been seeing this problem more frequently on the later model iPhones, the ones after the iPhone X series. What's happened to you is that the mounting frame that's supposed to be securely glued to the display has separated from the screen and stayed on the phone instead of coming off with the display assembly. Take a look at the back of a screen assembly and compare that to your phone.

See that metal frame all around the edge with the big chunk of metal (the shield you've been puzzling about)? You'll find it's missing from your screen and instead is still on the phone's midframe. The giveaway is the fact that your front camera assembly is still inside the phone rather than on the display as it should be.

The cure for this is to go around the edges of the phone with your opening picks, only this time get under that frame. Just repeat the whole opening procedure on the frame, but be careful about bending the frame since it doesn't have the display as backing now. Since the OLED is off, you can also slide a tool under it from the inside to help pry it up, being careful not to damage any parts or the battery.

Once you have it off, you'll need to buy some glue (look for something like B-7000, along those lines) so you can resecure the screen's frame back on the screen. I've had this happen to me on some very cheap aftermarket screens on an iPhone X, and honestly didn't have any luck; when it separated from the screen frame it damaged the OLED. Hopefully yours turns out better.

Okay so there's the screen, now lets look at the reboots. These sound like the phenomenon known as a kernel panic. The kernel is the heart of the iOS operating system, basically running the show. One of its functions is to scan all the phone's sensors every three minutes. If it finds a sensor it can't read, it records the problem and its cause in a file called a panic log then reboots the phone in an attempt to recover from an unrecoverable error.

Unfortunately, since this is a hardware error it's still going to be there the next time the phone goes to scan its sensors. Since computers can only do what they're told, it will simply keep repeating that scenario to infinity and beyond.

Luckily we have a wiki article all about these kernel panics written by a former Apple repair technician that is invaluable in figuring out these problems.

iPhone Kernel Panics - iFixit

Your homework assignment is to read the section titled "How to find a panic log", then use that information to locate the latest panic log on your phone. Take a screenshot or copy & paste the first page of the log then come back here and add that information to your question. Once we have that information we'll be able to diagnose the actual reason for all your restarts and hopefully tell you what part needs to be replaced in order to put those panics to rest once and for all.

Hi Billy,

I don't mean to be critical, but your descriptions of things aren't a lot of help. "Black spinny thing" and "coloured spinny thing" are kind of hard for us to figure out what you mean, but I understand that you may not know exactly what they're called.

My best guess is you're talking about parts on the camera lens, probably the brightness adjustment ring for one. Take a look at this question where someone else had problems with that part and I was able to help them figure out how to put it all back together.

SOLVED: Brightness adjusment cover fix - Fujifilm Instax Mini 9 - iFixit

If that doesn't give you all the information you need, take a look at my guide to the shell replacement that has full teardown information; it'll be more than you need but should show you what you need to know to put yours back together.

Fujifilm Instax Mini 9 Camera Shell Replacement - iFixit Repair Guide

By the way, don't worry about the fact that these are for the Instax 9 rather than the 8 like yours; the differences are minor and won't affect how you take it apart or put it back together.

If you still have questions, add some pictures of the parts you're having problems with and we'll do our best to help. This guide will show you how to add pictures to your question.

Adding images to an existing question - iFixit Repair Guide