Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Micro-USB port daughterboard.

Insert a fingernail or plastic opening tool into the divot to the left of the rear-facing camera. Gently pry and twist the flexible rear cover off the back of the phone. Gently pry and twist the flexible rear cover off the back of the phone.
  • Insert a fingernail or plastic opening tool into the divot to the left of the rear-facing camera.

  • Gently pry and twist the flexible rear cover off the back of the phone.

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Insert a fingernail or plastic opening tool into the recess in the bottom right corner of the battery and lift upward. Remove the battery away from the phone. Remove the battery away from the phone.
  • Insert a fingernail or plastic opening tool into the recess in the bottom right corner of the battery and lift upward.

  • Remove the battery away from the phone.

The battery will need to be charged after it is placed in the phone. No one told me that and I bought a battery and thought it was bad. Keep the phone off and insert the charger. You will need to charge it for several hours before you can use the phone.

Diane Schumacher - Reply

Using a fingertip, pull the microSD card straight down out of its slot. Remove the microSD card from the phone.
  • Using a fingertip, pull the microSD card straight down out of its slot.

  • Remove the microSD card from the phone.

I found removing the SIM/SD card with my fingertip a little difficult – not enough friction. So I used a 'rubber' (in US English it's called a pencil eraser or just simply, an eraser.

Simple, cheap (zero) and effective! :)

Cheers.

John

johnsg0053 - Reply

Repeat the above procedure to remove the SIM card.
  • Repeat the above procedure to remove the SIM card.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry up the plastic midframe connector panel. Remove the connector panel with a pair of tweezers. There should be enough adhesive to readhere the panel upon reassembly, otherwise use a small amount of double-stick tape.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry up the plastic midframe connector panel.

  • Remove the connector panel with a pair of tweezers.

  • There should be enough adhesive to readhere the panel upon reassembly, otherwise use a small amount of double-stick tape.

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Use the sharp tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector straight up off its socket. Use the sharp tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector straight up off its socket.
  • Use the sharp tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector straight up off its socket.

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In the following steps you will be using an iOpener to warm the adhesive affixing the display assembly to the rest of the phone. This will allow for a safer, easier screen removal. For proper iOpener use, follow our iOpener heating guide, make sure to pay attention to all warnings. Place a heated iOpener on the left side of the phone for at least 90 seconds.
  • In the following steps you will be using an iOpener to warm the adhesive affixing the display assembly to the rest of the phone. This will allow for a safer, easier screen removal. For proper iOpener use, follow our iOpener heating guide, make sure to pay attention to all warnings.

  • Place a heated iOpener on the left side of the phone for at least 90 seconds.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the right half of the phone.

good location for a timer, I am taking my phone apart

andrew beals - Reply

In the following steps you will be using an opening pick to separate the adhesive securing the front panel glass. Only pry where directed. If you experience resistance, stop sliding the opening pick and reapply heat. Insert the edge of an opening pick underneath the bottom right side of the front glass.
  • In the following steps you will be using an opening pick to separate the adhesive securing the front panel glass. Only pry where directed. If you experience resistance, stop sliding the opening pick and reapply heat.

  • Insert the edge of an opening pick underneath the bottom right side of the front glass.

I hope this helps others:

my screen was STRONGLY glued to the midframe, it was impossible to remove it without breaking it, be very careful with the copper adhesive in the midframe!!!

I can't even understand how this guide doesn't mention it properly!

Pedro - Reply

Slide the opening pick up along the right side of the display. Slide the opening pick up along the right side of the display. Slide the opening pick up along the right side of the display.
  • Slide the opening pick up along the right side of the display.

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Carefully slide the pick around the corner, stopping before the speaker grille at the top of the phone. Carefully slide the pick around the corner, stopping before the speaker grille at the top of the phone. Carefully slide the pick around the corner, stopping before the speaker grille at the top of the phone.
  • Carefully slide the pick around the corner, stopping before the speaker grille at the top of the phone.

Be sure not to nick and tear the capacitive touch chip interface that meets the LCD screen here! I caught it and didn't even feel the resistance. :-(

Play It Loud Computer Services - Reply

The adhesive securing the top of the phone is only a narrow strip above the earpiece speaker. Slide the pick along the top of the speaker to avoid damaging internal components. Slide the opening pick across the top of the phone, being very careful not to insert the pick too deeply. Slide the opening pick across the top of the phone, being very careful not to insert the pick too deeply.
  • The adhesive securing the top of the phone is only a narrow strip above the earpiece speaker. Slide the pick along the top of the speaker to avoid damaging internal components.

  • Slide the opening pick across the top of the phone, being very careful not to insert the pick too deeply.

I have been extra careful, and it did not prevent me to sever the flat cable in the upper left corner. The cable is very close and you should take extreme caution.

Neocray - Reply

Carefully slide the pick around the upper left corner. If you encounter any resistance from cooling adhesive, reapply a heated iOpener to the left side of the phone. If you encounter any resistance from cooling adhesive, reapply a heated iOpener to the left side of the phone.
  • Carefully slide the pick around the upper left corner.

  • If you encounter any resistance from cooling adhesive, reapply a heated iOpener to the left side of the phone.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Slide the opening pick down along the left half of the phone stopping at the lower left corner. Slide the opening pick down along the left half of the phone stopping at the lower left corner. Slide the opening pick down along the left half of the phone stopping at the lower left corner.
  • Slide the opening pick down along the left half of the phone stopping at the lower left corner.

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Slide the opening pick all the way to the bottom left corner of the phone, making sure it is securely placed. In the following step you will be placing an iOpener over the home button end of the phone, you won't want your opening pick to slip out.
  • Slide the opening pick all the way to the bottom left corner of the phone, making sure it is securely placed.

  • In the following step you will be placing an iOpener over the home button end of the phone, you won't want your opening pick to slip out.

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Place a reheated iOpener over the bottom portion of the display assembly.
  • Place a reheated iOpener over the bottom portion of the display assembly.

  • There are delicate components in this portion of the phone, you want to ensure the adhesive is warm and easy to loosen to protect the phone.

this IFIXIT IOpener how much are these

Raewyn Dowd - Reply

The bottom end of the phone contains the soft button and home button ribbon cables. If you insert the opening pick too far into the phone you risk cutting these cables. Slide the very end of the opening pick across the bottom edge of the display to separate the last of the remaining adhesive. Slide the very end of the opening pick across the bottom edge of the display to separate the last of the remaining adhesive.
  • The bottom end of the phone contains the soft button and home button ribbon cables. If you insert the opening pick too far into the phone you risk cutting these cables.

  • Slide the very end of the opening pick across the bottom edge of the display to separate the last of the remaining adhesive.

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Twist the opening pick to detach the glass from the phone. If the front panel does not detach easily, it may require additional adhesive cutting.
  • Twist the opening pick to detach the glass from the phone.

  • If the front panel does not detach easily, it may require additional adhesive cutting.

Be aware that there is adhesive on the inner parts of the screen. Plan on replacing this screen and digitizer as well.

AB Computer Services - Reply

If the front panel is not easily freed, the adhesive on the soft button cable may need to be separated. These cables are thin and easily damaged, therefore be certain you are only peeling them off the display assembly and not lacerating them.
  • If the front panel is not easily freed, the adhesive on the soft button cable may need to be separated.

  • These cables are thin and easily damaged, therefore be certain you are only peeling them off the display assembly and not lacerating them.

  • Insert an opening pick under the soft button icons on the display and pry the button cables down off the inside of the front panel.

Accidentally cut one of the side buttons. It wouldn't come out, the screen was badly cracked.

Nickoplier - Reply

Is there a replacement I can get for the soft buttons?

Nickoplier - Reply

My digitizer was glued to the chasis, the glass came up separately and the digitizer broke when I tried to pry it up.

ken - Reply

cum as putea să imi iau si eu displei pentru samsung galaxi s 5

GüL ayaz - Reply

Slightly lift, but do not remove, the home button end of display assembly. Do not remove the front panel entirely. It is still attached by a connector.
  • Slightly lift, but do not remove, the home button end of display assembly.

  • Do not remove the front panel entirely. It is still attached by a connector.

  • If you are reusing the home button flex cable, be careful not to sever the cable from the home button. Adhesive can cause the cable to rip apart from the home button. While the home button will still work, the fingerprint scanner will not.

The display assembly I purchased from ifixit.com included a new home button with a new flex cable. If you have the same, I'd recommend removing the home button in this step.

pdub01 - Reply

Sansumg S5 is the stupiest design (for repair) ever.

I have fixed s2,s3,s4, note, note 2 and note 3

All of them, you can get into the logic board from the back without touching the screen assembly.

With the S5, just a simple problem could cost you buying a new lcd assembly.

You must remove the lcd in order to remove the screws for the logic board cover.

I purchased a cracked lcd S5, so I can replace it and sell it. My mistake was I did not did a research on the tear down (thinking it should the same as previous S model.

To make story short, lucky for me, I did a dry test of the entire phone, before glueing on the new lcd assembly.

Because the front camera lens was damaged, cost $5.

If I glued the lcd, it would be 50/50 chance that I would crack the new screen.

So any repair that you need to do on the S5, you will have to consider the risk of breaking the LCD.

I hope Samsung change the design on the S6. Which I doubt it. Because the higher cost of repair means people won't fix them = more new sells

idevice Recycle - Reply

How can I find out if I messed my phone up . the person who glued the screen on didn't glue it on right , so I tried to take off the screen and I got it off but now that I try to put it back on the screen is black .

cholitaesh21 -

I know this reply is a bit late, over 2 years late, but I just wanted to add to idevice Recycle that the way "they" designed this phone is exactly as you described, to make it wayyyy more difficult to fix even the most simplest thing on this phone. Inverting the motherboard, designed exactly the opposite way of the S4 (as you described), from their standpoint of view, as you'd have to admit, was a brilliant idea on "they're" part.

I've torn apart and fixed many cell/smart phones in my days thus far, but mostly iphones by far. A friend passed

me one of these phones this past week. I've never messed with one before so you already know, even though I

have much knowledge about them, this site was the first I visited about this phone. Needless to say, go figure.

They did a really great job though making this phone one of the most difficult phones to do any type of repair

on. Adhesive sucks. But eh, all is well with a bit of time and patience. Had to replace rear camera and middle

bezel frame. Time to off it....

you_mad.lil_fella -

This guide may have been written for a different revision but the SM-G900F that I just repaired had glue sticking the entire of the rear of the screen to the chassis making it very difficult to remove. Had to use a spudger and push it down the inside of the phone separating the copper film from the chassis to free it up. Would be easy to damage the home button cable but I was ok.

Adam - Reply

I had the same thing happen just now. I was working on a G900A. A real PITA!

mcr4u2 -

Is there a need to put adhesive after removing the screen?? If so, do you have an adhesive recommended...

garrykufa2000 - Reply

Should be. i recommend using 3m strip double sided adhesive

leiki42 -

I had the same issue as idevice recycle. The model S5 that I was working on had a huge amount of glue on the back of the lcd which I wasn't aware of - this caused me to crack the glass which then literally broke the lcd in half (costing me £120 for a new screen!!!)

I've repaired all manner of Samsung products over the years and I've never had any issues with any model apart from this one. My advice to anyone doing this repair is once you have managed to unstick the screen from the frame, before attempting to remove it, apply a bit of heat (but not too much, you don't want to damage anything) to the back of the phone where the battery normally sits. This is where all the glue on the back of the lcd is located which sticks the lcd to the frame of the phone - I wish I knew of this before trying to remove the screen!

Clems - Reply

The guide needs to mention that the LCD is firmly glued.. Mine was bust anyway, but Step 19 is not fit for purpose.

Dave - Reply

So this really blows. I needed to swap the logic board from a phone with a cracked screen to one with a good screen. Yeah that’s not happening. I now have two cracked screens… Thanks Samsung! The difficulty on this should be way higher. As others have said, the screen is glued on the underside over a large portion where the copper foil is. It’s not coming up easily or in one piece.

Jeremy Buseman - Reply

Use the sharp tip of a spudger to lift the front panel assembly cable connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard. Safely remove the front panel assembly from phone. Safely remove the front panel assembly from phone.
  • Use the sharp tip of a spudger to lift the front panel assembly cable connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard.

  • Safely remove the front panel assembly from phone.

Am si eu un galaxi j5 2016 i putin spart pe blitu din spate si un pic pe ecran cit mar corta

alex_ronaldo71 - Reply

Remove the ten 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display side of the midframe.
  • Remove the ten 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display side of the midframe.

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Flip the phone over and remove the following screws from the battery side of the midframe:
  • Flip the phone over and remove the following screws from the battery side of the midframe:

    • Two 4.4 mm Phillips #000 screws near the USB port on the battery side of the phone

    • One 4.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

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Gently run a plastic opening tool down along the left inner side of the interior frame to separate the three white plastic clips. Gently run a plastic opening tool down along the left inner side of the interior frame to separate the three white plastic clips. Gently run a plastic opening tool down along the left inner side of the interior frame to separate the three white plastic clips.
  • Gently run a plastic opening tool down along the left inner side of the interior frame to separate the three white plastic clips.

There are also two more white clips just along the edges of the battery connection terminals (to the right of the 3 shown in the pictures). Using a spudger to pry these loose too will make separating them later much easier.

Peter Morris - Reply

The midframe is composed of two halves that encase the motherboard. Gently pull the long sides of the silver bezel out away from the phone to separate the two halves of the midframe.
  • The midframe is composed of two halves that encase the motherboard.

  • Gently pull the long sides of the silver bezel out away from the phone to separate the two halves of the midframe.

  • It may be helpful to gently push in from the inside of the battery compartment, but be careful not to flex the interior half of the midframe, as the motherboard is mounted to it.

maybe my phone was stuck a little, but i had to work it pretty hard to get this step. Just take your time.

andrew beals - Reply

Continue on to the right side of the silver bezel, pulling away from the interior section of the midframe to separate the two halves. Continue on to the right side of the silver bezel, pulling away from the interior section of the midframe to separate the two halves.
  • Continue on to the right side of the silver bezel, pulling away from the interior section of the midframe to separate the two halves.

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Use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel. Use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel.

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Carefully remove the interior midframe/motherboard assembly from the white inner midframe. Carefully remove the interior midframe/motherboard assembly from the white inner midframe.
  • Carefully remove the interior midframe/motherboard assembly from the white inner midframe.

Did two of these phones, and a small white hard plastic cap fell out. Can anyone tell me where this goes on reassembly? See pic: http://library-static.snapfish.com/libra...

Brian Guild - Reply

The white plastic cap which fell out is actually the piece that covers a small hole marked R2 near the original philips head screw you remove when first disconnecting the small display connector. The good news is that this cap can be put back on after fully reassembling the phone.

Brian Guild - Reply

Carefully wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the antenna cable connector. Delicately lift the spudger directly upwards to disconnect the antenna connector off its socket on the motherboard.
  • Carefully wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the antenna cable connector.

  • Delicately lift the spudger directly upwards to disconnect the antenna connector off its socket on the motherboard.

Please let someone know about the screw under the camera and flash/heartbeat monitor, holding the motherboard to the midframe. I do not see a step for this before trying to remove the motherboard.

Jay Bird - Reply

Same and all so in the s5 I disassembled there was 2 antenna cables the a blue one and a white one.

daniel willenbrok - Reply

Remove the single 3.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the motherboard to the midframe.
  • Remove the single 3.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the motherboard to the midframe.

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Pull, but do not remove, the camera end of the motherboard up from the midframe to allow access to the connectors on the rear. Do not attempt to fully remove the motherboard as it is still attached to the interior midframe by the Micro-USB port daughterboard connector.
  • Pull, but do not remove, the camera end of the motherboard up from the midframe to allow access to the connectors on the rear.

  • Do not attempt to fully remove the motherboard as it is still attached to the interior midframe by the Micro-USB port daughterboard connector.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the daughterboard connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the daughterboard connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the daughterboard connector straight up off its socket on the motherboard.

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The soft button ribbon cables are attached to the Micro-USB port daughterboard and must be detached from the interior midframe. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully peel the soft button cables up off the interior midframe.
  • The soft button ribbon cables are attached to the Micro-USB port daughterboard and must be detached from the interior midframe.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully peel the soft button cables up off the interior midframe.

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Flip the midframe/motherboard assembly back over.
  • Flip the midframe/motherboard assembly back over.

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the Micro-USB port daughterboard to the midframe.

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Gently slide the flat end of a spudger in between the daughterboard cable and the interior midframe to begin to separate the adhesive holding it down. Gently slide the flat end of a spudger in between the daughterboard cable and the interior midframe to begin to separate the adhesive holding it down.
  • Gently slide the flat end of a spudger in between the daughterboard cable and the interior midframe to begin to separate the adhesive holding it down.

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Rotate the midframe/motherboard assembly and reinsert the spudger between the daughterboard and interior midframe. Twist the spudger to separate the last of the adhesive between the daughterboard and interior midframe. Remove the daughterboard from the interior midframe.
  • Rotate the midframe/motherboard assembly and reinsert the spudger between the daughterboard and interior midframe.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the last of the adhesive between the daughterboard and interior midframe.

  • Remove the daughterboard from the interior midframe.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

116 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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29 Comments

If my reception is suddenly bad, could this part have a problem?

pedro - Reply

Since replacing the part I cannot register on the network, Wifi works, cellular says full signal but selected network unavailable. Sim works in another phone and another sim doesn't work in this phone.

Adam -

Make sure you reatach the tiny connector that was taken off in step 28. That is crucial to reception and can easily fail to click into place. It seems very likely that that is the problem.

Paul Sisneros -

This guide needs to be changed to Difficult. Removing the screen without breaking it will be challenging. If you are successful after that, the rest is easy.

Wade - Reply

Very, very hard

joseluiscolado -

Be sure to buy the same revision charging port you are replacing ,if you dont do this you would experiment signal issues,

Also many charging ports of this (ebay,alibaba or whetever you get them) come with bad microphone or even dont charge!

So full test before sticking the lcd again!

fabio cuevas - Reply

The lack of reception will probably be due to mismatched versions of the board......

Check the printing on the board for a 'REV' version number......If this number doesn't match, you will more than likely end up with signal issues.....newer replacement boards *might* be backwards compatible with older original boards, but to the best of my knowledge, forwards compatibility does not exist.......

Your best option would be to source an identical REV version board.

I have run into this EXACT problem with a couple of Samsung devices, and have even created a guide about it on the S2 forum over on XDA.......

Keith Ross - Reply

I just replaced the daughterboard rev 0.7 with a rev 0.8 and everything works perfectly! Just make sure the black antenna cable is tucked away behind the plastic border. Else it might come loose when you snap the daughterboard in place. Phone was a Galaxy S5 Neo.

Sam Decrock -

Great guide!!! Although I have a couple notes: I might have a newer version of the phone:I also had the white cable that isn't shown or listed in this guide.I used the same technique as the blue cable-anybody completing this guide can do the same.Something I did on accident to be wary of is that when using a plastic prying tool on Steps 25-27, I bent in the volume rocker leads and when I reassembled they wouldn't work.Had to take the phone apart again and test, carefully bending them back upward with the pointed end of the spudger. Everything was fine after reassembly.One final note--the pictures are great, but a complete before macro photo of necessary phone parts would be amazing-I couldn't tell in the pictures if leads were supposed to be bent upwards--the rest seemed to be all lapped over in that fashion so I felt I was really taking a risk--if I had a macro of the motherboard at 45 degrees I'd have been able to see that it was supposed to be bent upward. Otherwise, amazing guide and many thanks!!!

Nathan Thompson - Reply

By reading these comments..I'm just gonna not try to fix the charging port..good thing I have warranty or I can just upgrade.

Andrewmk1 G - Reply

Love this Step by Step BIY for S5. Sadly, i dont have $$ for the parts or time. I give this a 5

Scare Crow - Reply

Does anyone know if some Samsung models would have compatible charging ports? or any good places to purchase charging ports?

I have the Model G900W and can't find a new charging port anywhere

Albert Einstein - Reply

After replacing charging port my rear camera is taking pictures in pink.. help asap

Alicia Santiago - Reply

Step 29 .

Need the power switch cable adjacent to the sim holder.

There are three pin bends and two of them are damaged in my phone.

Everything is perfect in my mobile but couldn't switch it on?

Can i find it online. If yes please provide me the link. I'm from India.

If no, please let me know the next whole product i should buy to make my phone work.

Thanks.

Ashwinn - Reply

I severed the ribbon to my recent app button and it is no longer working. Would replacing this daughter board make my recent button work again?

Cody Woodworth - Reply

oi pessoal tenho um galaxy s5 coloquei ele na agua e comecou a ter problemas de sinal wifi qnd chegar em uma carga de 40% ele fica saindo da rede depois que coloquei na agua quero trocar essa entrada usb dele pra tentar resolver esse problema estou em amsterdam teria algum SITE bom que eu conseguiria comprar por aqui!? welbeton@hotmail.com

Welbeton amaral - Reply

When removing the soft key flex cables one of the small white (LED?) pieces came up and the black adhesive is all mangled. What are the little white squares? should they be connected to something? I haven't been able to find them anywhere and they aren't shown with the replacement daughterboards I have looked at either. I am planning to replace the mid frame as well as the daughterboard so do I need to peel the white squares off and stick them to the new frame? Thanks.

Sarah Weyer - Reply

What about the screen's adhesive? Do I have to hurry so the adhesive will still be warm enough not to become solid again? Am I supposed to somehow reapply adhesive before completing the assembly?

dingdongdough - Reply

What causes my screen to constantly blink and ?flash

Scotty - Reply

hi

just need to know what LCD Digitizers are compatible with my Canadian g900w8 !

do you just go by the REV1.0 number or does the BH1427 1 number have anything to do with compatibility ?

Matteus R - Reply

I bought several Boards on eBay. Every board hat the same problems:

Button's go crazy when i am using mobile data?

Does anyone noticed similar problems?

Stefan Trampert - Reply

What are the reasons for which people usually change the micro USB daughter board?

Sean Smith - Reply

Make sure you buy the correct charge port assembly......... some models just have the one antenna cable (blue) and some have 2 cables.

the blue one and a white one. If your phone has 2 cables and you use the assembly with just 1....... you may get poor cell reception.

asears - Reply

main reason for changing it is a worn out or loose charge port

asears - Reply

Just replaced the port REV 08 with REV 06 and the buttons work but it's not charging. Could this be the issue?

Evaldas Bekaras - Reply

I replaced a rev8 board with a rev6 and it does not charge. The USB won’t even get recognised by the PC. I also have a blue and a white antenna cable. Mine is a S5 (LTE?) SM-G901F UK EE. I also get no 3/4G signal. I put the old one back in and all works (except loose connector, which is why I was replacing it)

Graybridges -

Help! I followed these steps to replace the charge port and now the touch screen is unresponsive! What can I do?

Lindsay - Reply

After fitting a new daughterboard, it all works apart from the two capacitive buttons. The daughterboard, as purchased, has some white things in the little black touch cables. It’s not clear what these are, and whether they replace the ones that are already there. Are they LEDs ? They look like some looped pcb track. How much am I supposed to peel the little white tabs of the touch-button tails after purchase ?

Graybridges - Reply

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