iPod Classic Headphone Jack & Hold Switch Replacement

Replace Headphone Jack & Hold Switch to fix no audio and/or no unlock

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Very difficult

No audio? Replace the headphone jack!

Unable to unlock? Replace the lock switch, which is an integral part of the headphone jack sub assembly.

Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Apple designed their new iPods to be very difficult to take apart without destroying major components. Because of the metal faceplate, the metal backing, and the 13 (yes, 13) metal clips holding the case together, this is one of the toughest iPods to disassemble.

  • Proceed with caution and the warning that you may significantly damage your iPod beyond its present condition. Also, you may want a few extra pairs of plastic opening tools during installation, as they are easy to ruin when opening the iPod. Have fun!

  • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Opening this iPod is challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened. One thing to notice is the angle of the plastic opening tool's tip while inserting it into the iPod. Ideally, the angle should be as vertical as possible while still clearing the edge of the rear panel.

  • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Insert another plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools.

  • There are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.

  • Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, pivot the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the gap between the opening tools.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Slowly flex the putty knife, as shown in the picture, to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.

  • The theory behind this method is, rather than attempting to not bend the rear panel at all, to bend it in a favorable manner that allows you to easily restore it later. Therefore, any bend in the sides of the rear panel should be drawing the lip of the rear panel away from the iPod, rather than pushing out on the curved surface. This method also disengages as many of the side clips as possible.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the putty knife from the iPod and reinsert it closer to the corner of the iPod, using the same wiggle method as before.

  • If at all possible, do not bend the corner of the rear panel.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Between the lock slider and headphone jack, insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

  • You may find it easier to carefully flex the putty knife downward in order to create more of a gap for the opening tool, but be sure not to bend the corner of the rear panel!

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Near the center of the display, carefully insert a metal spudger into the gap created by the plastic opening tool.

  • It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.

  • Using the metal spudger, disengage the single clip on the top of the iPod.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • On the other side, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

  • You may find it easier to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner in order to create a sufficient gap.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the top corner and insert it into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools (as done on the other side).

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools.

  • Again, there are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.

  • Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, angle the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the iPod via the gap between the plastic opening tools.

  • Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Ever so slightly flex the putty knife to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • The metal clips near the corners are notorious for tenaciously gripping the front panel. It is necessary to disengage these clips in order to open the iPod.

  • Carefully insert a metal spudger into the area near the stubborn metal clip.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Gently wiggle the metal spudger down so that it is all the way in the rear panel.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Gently begin to disengage the clip from the front panel.

  • It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Continue to push up on the front panel with the metal spudger until the metal clip releases.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • There are two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the rest of the iPod. In the following step, be careful not to damage these ribbon cables.

  • Grasp the front panel assembly with one hand and the rear panel with the other.

  • Take a deep breath!

  • Gently (GENTLY) disengage the remaining clips on the rear panel by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels away from each other (think of the bottom of the iPod as a hinge), taking great care not to damage the ribbon cables holding the two halves together.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to slide up the connector holding the orange battery ribbon in place. You only need to lift the locking bar up about 2 mm to free the cable.

  • Slide the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Place the rear panel next to the iPod, being careful not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Lift the hard drive up with one hand so you can access the headphone jack ribbon beneath.

  • Use a spudger to flip up the plastic tab holding the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.

  • Slide the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector.

  • The rear panel is now free from the iPod.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Now to repair the damage caused by liberating the internal parts of the iPod Classic! It is highly likely that at least one of the metal clips in the lower case has been bent upward. These clips must all be pointing downward in order to reinstall the rear panel.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Take the broad, flat side of the metal spudger and push the clip down, taking care not to tear the thin metal rail from the rear panel. Alternatively a pair of flat pin nosed pliers can be used to reduce risk of slipping and damaging the headphone jack.

  • Be careful not to damage any of the headphone jack parts while shaping these clips!

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • On a clean, hard surface, lay the rear panel on its side. Carefully but firmly push down on it, rolling the entire lip side back into its proper spot.

  • It may be necessary to do this multiple times in order to achieve optimal straightness on the sides. It is better to have the edges of the case pushed in slightly too far rather than not far enough, because the reseating of the front panel will bend the rear panel into its correct alignment.

  • Now that the rear panel is back to a beautiful condition, you can move on to repairing the iPod!

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • The battery is attached to the rear panel with adhesive. Be careful not to tear the orange headphone jack or hold button ribbon cables when removing the battery.

  • Use a spudger to lift the battery and the attached orange cable out of the iPod. If you have a 160 GB iPod, the battery will be thicker than the one pictured.

Edit Step 25 Headphone Jack & Hold Switch  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25 Headphone Jack & Hold Switch  ¶ 

  • Use one hand to hold the orange ribbon cables in place, and peel up the black tape securing the cables to the rear panel with your other hand.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the two black Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.

  • These are SMALL! Be sure you have a size 00 screwdriver on hand

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One black Phillips screw securing the hold switch near the corner of the iPod.

    • One silver Phillips screw securing the other side of the hold switch.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift the hold switch free from its housing on the rear panel. Don't remove the hold switch completely at this time, because it is connected to the same cable as the headphone jack.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Slide the headphone jack out of its housing on the rear panel.

  • Lift the headphone jack and hold switch assembly out of the iPod.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • If you're just trying to remove the rear panel, you can skip Steps 30 and 31.

  • If your replacement headphone jack includes the white plastic hold switch, simply reinstall the replacement headphone jack. When replacing the hold switch assembly note the locating pin near the hole the silver screw position, concentrate on locating that and the rest falls into place. Once it's all screwed in remember to peal the backing tape off the contact pad just along from the jack.

  • If your replacement part does not include the plastic hold switch, follow the next steps to transfer the plastic hold switch to your new headphone jack.

  • Remove the single Phillips screw nearest to the hold switch.

  • Lift the plastic portion of the Hold switch away from the orange ribbon cable.

  • Ensure that the black notch lines up with the gray slider during reassembly of the switch (see picture 2).

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use the small iPod opening tool to carefully peel the orange ribbon cable and attached black Hold switch up from the metal backing.

  • When re-attaching the replacement Hold switch, make sure the two small posts on the back of the switch are aligned with the two holes in the metal backing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPod Classic device page.

Required Tools

1.5" Thin Putty Knife

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

This worked a charm for me! If you take it slow and steady, and keep all the warnings in mind, you shouldn't have too much trouble :)

myungtrucci, · Reply

my battery clip came out but i connected the cable to it and pushed it back on no problem

just wanted to say a big thank you to the guys/girls at ifixit for the guide my ipod classic is working better than ever!!!

patrick, · Reply

where do you buy new headphone jack?

alxg000, · Reply

The headphone jack is part of an assembly, on a cable with the hold switch. We sell this assembly for thin iPod classics (80, 120, or 160 GB) here, and for the thick (160 GB) variety here.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg,

check this guy I used dollar store xacto blades you got to be careful you can easily cut yourself but this method wont damage the clips or anything,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=end...

Nicolas, · Reply

works out perfectly for me! 3.5 hours, a lot (A LOT) of patience and attention. Didn't break or bend anything; now my ipod is working again. I'm very happy!

just a note: everything has to be done slowly and with no distraction. Take your time and deep breaths

kia, · Reply

Excellent, my ipod is now working like new, after a year without it when a faulty headphone get broke inside it.

maxevg, · Reply

This is the third time I've used one of Ifixit's guides and the third time I have been successful

in fixing one of my faulty Apple products. HUGE THANKS for having this forum and offering help that would otherwise cost far much more! Power to the people and those who help each other to help themselves!

anthonyzmc, · Reply

Yes this guide does work. The plastic tools are pretty useless. They break. I used a paint scraper and small flat head screw drivers. Top tip is to test the headphones before you re-close it. I did this and found that the left headphone was not working. I found the problem was the connection at step 20. The lead is pre-bent to fit snug. Once I taped it flush to the wall of the case I had both speakers working. To find out how to re-close the ipod watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmEVVLSR....

mike, · Reply

Did it successfully!! Just be patient and you need to be to rough to break anything, because I have big hands and is a little difficult to work with those little parts. But is no that hard, the harder steps were the ones to separate the front face from the rear face.

Nasim, · Reply

I think this must be a 5th gen ipod class and the gap is larger. I have a 6th gen ipod classic, the plastic open tool can't insert in!

The battery(thick) I bought from ifixit has problem: the cable is not same length as the original one. Be carefully.

linhaiyxs, · Reply

Συνεχίστε να πιέζετε προς τα επάνω το μπροστινό πάνελ με το spudger μέταλλο έως ότου ελευθερωθεί το μεταλλικό κλιπ.

ermiskaspis, · Reply

Be careful here. I screwed up and ruined the iPod's motherboard when trying to reconnect the battery cable.

greekman07, · Reply

very easy tear off battery connection from the logic board,very careful when open that plastic lock.

andraskiss, · Reply

Be EXTREMELY careful not to lift too far up and remove the whole piece from the motherboard. You'll never get the pins to line up correctly again without breaking the solder joints and ruining the motherboard if you do. iFixit failed.

bcook,

totally screwed up, pulled out the whole

agnesmadness, · Reply

the connector came out with the battery cable ,almost lost it. I did get it back in though.

elsprato13, · Reply

Yeah, this battery connector is extremely fragile if you pry too hard you will lift the whole connector plastic off the board. A really, really bad design from Apple having that type of connector like that. The white plastic part is not secure at all to the logic board so when you pry the tab up, you may lift the whole thing up.

rgarjr, · Reply

I don't know if this step is totally necessary. If its not feel free to skip it just be careful to avoid tearing the ribbon.

kevman12, · Reply

I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.

JOSHUAEGILLESPI, · Reply

This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.

robertdraznik, · Reply

Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.

Joe Parkes, · Reply

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!

shaunlovesyou, · Reply

I just want to say that with out this tutorial I could never have taken my iPod apart the biggest help was the addition of the putty knife. It took about 30min cause I took it slow. My iPod is charging and seems to be working thank you

PMM, · Reply

dont do this, as u see, any one can edit it, it's like wikipedia, not reliable.

sophia, · Reply

I do this and my ipod works now!

loquetraoul,

Thanks for this. It worked for me without any hitches. Your presentation, products and packaging are all first rate.

trippcarey, · Reply

All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.

Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results

michael earl, · Reply

Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale

K Queale, · Reply

Sounds like you're just clumsy...

bjoernskytte,

Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour

Dave Sherman, · Reply

My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.

elsprato13, · Reply

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