Introduction

Use this guide to completely strip your iPad Air, or replace a dented rear case.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

jfmartin67 - Reply

If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

aaroncope - Reply

The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

Mike Martin -

If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

Blair Miller - Reply

Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

notalawyer - Reply

I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

Vince Asbridge - Reply

Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

dale kingsbury - Reply

Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly. Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
  • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

jfmartin67 - Reply

The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

kinchma - Reply

“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

Blair Miller - Reply

I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

Joel Tyson - Reply

Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

Travis Dixon - Reply

The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

Javier Lozada - Reply

The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step. As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Front-facing camera
  • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

  • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Front-facing camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

jfmartin67 - Reply

Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

kinchma - Reply

It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

Scott S - Reply

Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

Simone Gabbriellini -

Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

Jeff Suovanen -

The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

Blair Miller - Reply

After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

Taiji Saotome - Reply

It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

phongsiri nirachornkul - Reply

Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Reheat and replace the iOpener.
  • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

Scott - Reply

Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

Scott S - Reply

This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

Corey Barcus -

How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

chrisweiler - Reply

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

Scott S - Reply

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

What's the best way to clean 'em off?

What's the safest way?

Mike McIntosh - Reply

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

Blair Miller - Reply

Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

Sam Lionheart -

My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

Dylan Bouterse - Reply

Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
  • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.
  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

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Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
  • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

  • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.
  • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner.

    • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

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Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

Travis Dixon - Reply

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.
  • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

  • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.
  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

  • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.

  • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws. Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws. Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
  • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD.
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD.

    • Three 4.0 mm screws

    • One 4.8 mm screw

Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

Travis Dixon - Reply

I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

Brecht Bocket - Reply

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
  • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

  • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

  • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

    • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery. Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
  • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

  • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

Matt - Reply

Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

goodcyning - Reply

I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

Peter Gray - Reply

A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

dougintexas - Reply

Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

  • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

originalpaintballpanda2 - Reply

I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: How to Remove a Stripped Screw

goodcyning -

Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

gwarren - Reply

Remove the LCD.
  • Remove the LCD.

Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector. Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
  • Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.

  • Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

Moses Roman - Reply

Moses Roman

Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

Bilal Kinali - Reply

I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

daviddesignbristol - Reply

I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

Please give us some feedback.

Elektromic - Reply

Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

RayM - Reply

To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

Have fun!

Josh - Reply

Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

Luis Tamborrell -

Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

Neil Davis -

Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

  • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

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Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear  case. Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear  case.
  • Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

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  • Remove the front panel assembly.

  • During reassembly, to prevent "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your iPad, check to make sure there is a layer of foam or tape covering the metal frame on the back of the glass.

    • These areas, which are part of the digitizer, are covered by foam adhesive on your iPad's original front panel. Some replacement panels leave this area exposed, which can cause it to ground out against other components. You can protect it by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape.

In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

Joe Kazura - Reply

What "two metallic pads of tape" are being referred to? Perhaps an image with these pads circled would be a good idea. All I can see near the home button in the guide images is a metal mesh covered foam pad, used for ground continuity. But there aren't two.

jamesqb2001 - Reply

the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

TJ Hellmuth - Reply

The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

This was a very good ifix ii

Rowell - Reply

Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

xsubguy - Reply

Insert a spudger under the antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector. Insert a spudger under the antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
  • Insert a spudger under the antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.

Skip to the step 98 or even 100 if you just need to replace the power button - I think you should even consider this to replace volume buttons. I am fixing mine right now and screwed up the speaker cable. I did follow the instruction but totally missed the cable right below the tape. I proceeded further, but I just realized I didn't have to go through all the troubles. I wish ifixit.com can manage this type of direction clearly so that dis-assembly is minimum.

msgfromside3 - Reply

After you replace the Digitizer if you are getting random key presses it is likely to be because Kapton tape has not been applied to the edges of the digitizer. You need to cover the silver strip around the edge of the digitizer with kapton tape before reassembling. Works every time.

Richard - Reply

This is my first ipad and when the battery dies, it will be my last, way overrated and no options like memory cards or mini usb ports, and the battery thing is ridiculous,I wish I would have never bought this knowing this stuff , and way over priced.

Gary - Reply

It always helps to Google something before buying it. "iPad Air reviews" in Google would have saved you. I just find it funny how in this day and age, people STILL make "purchase mistakes" because they didn't take the time to research the several-hundred-dollar device they are about to commit to purchasing. You should have seen the amounts of research I did before buying my $1,399 Asus G751JY laptop. I'm absolutely pleased with it and am happy I don't deal with issues other people have. Just be weary, buddy. ALWAYS GOOGLE.

Scott S -

There are two large pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, securing it to the rear case. Peel the tape up from the rear case. While peeling the antenna tape up, leave it in place on the antenna cable to aid with reassembly.
  • There are two large pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, securing it to the rear case.

  • Peel the tape up from the rear case.

    • While peeling the antenna tape up, leave it in place on the antenna cable to aid with reassembly.

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The antenna cable is anchored to the speaker with a small metal bracket. The bracket is permanently crimped to the antenna and adhered to the speaker enclosure. Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive.
  • The antenna cable is anchored to the speaker with a small metal bracket. The bracket is permanently crimped to the antenna and adhered to the speaker enclosure.

  • Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.

  • Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive.

  • Push the bracket away from the speaker until it clears the tape underneath.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the right antenna:
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the right antenna:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna. Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

  • Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.

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Remove the right antenna from the iPad.
  • Remove the right antenna from the iPad.

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Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector. Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
  • Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.

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There are five pieces of tape wrapped around the left antenna cable covering the right speaker cable connector. Peel the tape up from the rear case. Fold the antenna cable out of the way.
  • There are five pieces of tape wrapped around the left antenna cable covering the right speaker cable connector.

  • Peel the tape up from the rear case.

  • Fold the antenna cable out of the way.

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A bend in the speaker cable makes it difficult to peel the tape up from the end. Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.
  • A bend in the speaker cable makes it difficult to peel the tape up from the end.

  • Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.

    • Be careful with your tweezers—only grab and peel the tape, and not the cable beneath.

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Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector. Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector. Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector.
  • Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector. Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.

  • Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.

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Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case. Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case. Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case.
  • Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case.

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Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the rear case. Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the rear case. Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the rear case.
  • Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the rear case.

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Remove the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the speaker to the rear case.
  • Remove the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

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Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case. Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case. Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.
  • Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case.

  • Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.

It is really not necessary to remove either speakers for a logic board swap.

sergeymkl - Reply

Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case. Remove the right speaker from the iPad. Remove the right speaker from the iPad.
  • Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case.

  • Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.

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Remove the upper component cable bracket.
  • Remove the upper component cable bracket.

  • If you have the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, your iPad will look slightly different and will require the removal of two additional screws to access components covered by this bracket.

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There are two remaining pieces of tape securing the left antenna cable to the rear case. Peel the tape up from the rear case.
  • There are two remaining pieces of tape securing the left antenna cable to the rear case.

  • Peel the tape up from the rear case.

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Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive. Push the bracket away from the speaker until it is clear of the tape underneath.
  • Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.

  • Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive.

  • Push the bracket away from the speaker until it is clear of the tape underneath.

Add Comment

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws:
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws:

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna. Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

  • Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.

Add Comment

Remove the left antenna from the iPad.
  • Remove the left antenna from the iPad.

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Remove the tape covering the left speaker cable connector. Remove the tape covering the left speaker cable connector.
  • Remove the tape covering the left speaker cable connector.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.

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Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
  • Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.

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Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case. Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case.
  • Remove the tape holding the speaker to the rear case.

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Remove the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the speaker to the rear case.
  • Remove the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

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Gently fold the left speaker ribbon cable up so that it will clear the battery when you slide the speaker enclosure out. Gently fold the left speaker ribbon cable up so that it will clear the battery when you slide the speaker enclosure out.
  • Gently fold the left speaker ribbon cable up so that it will clear the battery when you slide the speaker enclosure out.

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Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case. Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case. Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.
  • Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case.

  • Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.

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Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case. Remove the left speaker from the iPad. Remove the left speaker from the iPad.
  • Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the  logic board. Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself. Fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.

    • Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself.

  • Fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way.

    • There is a bit of conductive adhesive between the gold-colored cable contacts. Be sure to apply pressure to readhere these contacts during reassembly.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the  logic board. Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself. Fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.

    • Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself.

  • Fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board. Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself. Newer iPad units have a loop of tape connecting this connector to its socket on the the logic board. This tape must be cut in order to disconnect the headphone jack.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board.

    • Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself.

    • Newer iPad units have a loop of tape connecting this connector to its socket on the the logic board. This tape must be cut in order to disconnect the headphone jack.

  • Fold the headphone jack cable out of the way.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from the logic board. Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from the logic board.

    • Pry up only on the connector—not on the socket itself.

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Remove any tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector. Remove any tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.
  • Remove any tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.

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Slide the upper button assembly cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Slide the upper button assembly cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
  • Slide the upper button assembly cable straight out of its ZIF connector.

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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the Lightning port.
  • Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the Lightning port.

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In the next steps, you will use an iOpener to apply heat to the rear case of the iPad to soften adhesive holding the logic board in place. As you reheat and place the iOpener in each of the indicated locations, leave it in place for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case. The adhesive is in the form of six pieces of black foam tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.
  • In the next steps, you will use an iOpener to apply heat to the rear case of the iPad to soften adhesive holding the logic board in place.

  • As you reheat and place the iOpener in each of the indicated locations, leave it in place for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.

  • The adhesive is in the form of six pieces of black foam tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.

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Place a heated iOpener over the rear-facing camera end of the iPad, and let it sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.
  • Place a heated iOpener over the rear-facing camera end of the iPad, and let it sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.

    • More time won't hurt, but you may need to reheat your iOpener and reapply it if you leave it on the rear case for too long.

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As you complete the next few steps, prying adhesive securing the logic board in place, always start by testing gently to see if the adhesive is softened. If not, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the rear case. Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery. Slide the pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.
  • As you complete the next few steps, prying adhesive securing the logic board in place, always start by testing gently to see if the adhesive is softened. If not, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the rear case.

  • Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery.

  • Slide the pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.

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Slide an opening pick under the logic board from the front-facing camera to the rear facing camera. Slide an opening pick under the logic board from the front-facing camera to the rear facing camera. Slide an opening pick under the logic board from the front-facing camera to the rear facing camera.
  • Slide an opening pick under the logic board from the front-facing camera to the rear facing camera.

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Place a heated iOpener along the bottom edge of the iPad.
  • Place a heated iOpener along the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • Again, let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.

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The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself. Insert an opening pick under the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board. Slide the pick down and around the bend in the cable.
  • The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself.

  • Insert an opening pick under the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board.

  • Slide the pick down and around the bend in the cable.

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Continue to slide the opening pick under the cable, stopping before the cable bends to the Lightning connector. Move slowly and carefully. If the opening pick does not slide easily, apply more heat and try again. If you use excessive force, you will likely slip and sever the Lightning connector cable.
  • Continue to slide the opening pick under the cable, stopping before the cable bends to the Lightning connector.

  • Move slowly and carefully. If the opening pick does not slide easily, apply more heat and try again. If you use excessive force, you will likely slip and sever the Lightning connector cable.

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Finally, slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector itself to separate the last of the adhesive underneath the cable. Finally, slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector itself to separate the last of the adhesive underneath the cable.
  • Finally, slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector itself to separate the last of the adhesive underneath the cable.

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Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case. Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.
  • Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.

there were two screws holding the lightening connector in place on my iPad

Nate Czupinski - Reply

Yep! In this guide those screws are removed in Step 82, but you can remove them at any point prior to taking out the Lightning connector.

Jeff Suovanen -

Place a heated iOpener on the left side of the rear case, where the logic board is adhered.
  • Place a heated iOpener on the left side of the rear case, where the logic board is adhered.

    • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.

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Insert a plastic opening tool in the rectangular gap in the upper area of the logic board, and pry the logic board up from the rear case. While keeping the opening tool underneath the logic board, slide it down the length of the gap to free the upper end of the logic board from the adhesive. While keeping the opening tool underneath the logic board, slide it down the length of the gap to free the upper end of the logic board from the adhesive.
  • Insert a plastic opening tool in the rectangular gap in the upper area of the logic board, and pry the logic board up from the rear case.

  • While keeping the opening tool underneath the logic board, slide it down the length of the gap to free the upper end of the logic board from the adhesive.

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Pry up the logic board at the lower edge of the rectangular gap, near the EMI shield. Lift the end of the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener. Lift the end of the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.
  • Pry up the logic board at the lower edge of the rectangular gap, near the EMI shield.

  • Lift the end of the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.

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Slide an opening pick under the logic board between it and the battery. Slide the pick from the base to the center of the logic board to cut the adhesive. Take care not to cut the battery with the opening pick; a punctured battery can be very dangerous. If you encounter resistance, reheat and reapply the iOpener.
  • Slide an opening pick under the logic board between it and the battery.

  • Slide the pick from the base to the center of the logic board to cut the adhesive.

  • Take care not to cut the battery with the opening pick; a punctured battery can be very dangerous. If you encounter resistance, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

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Slide the pick up the length of the logic board. Once the adhesive has been cut, pry the battery side of the logic board upward off of the rear case. Once the adhesive has been cut, pry the battery side of the logic board upward off of the rear case.
  • Slide the pick up the length of the logic board.

  • Once the adhesive has been cut, pry the battery side of the logic board upward off of the rear case.

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Continue to lift the logic board along the edge nearest the battery, until you can get an opening pick against the far edge of the logic board. Cut any adhesive holding the outer edge of the logic board to the rear case.
  • Continue to lift the logic board along the edge nearest the battery, until you can get an opening pick against the far edge of the logic board.

  • Cut any adhesive holding the outer edge of the logic board to the rear case.

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Remove the logic board from the iPad.
  • Remove the logic board from the iPad.

Nice guide, thank you, very helpful. There would be no way to guess where the glue stripes are located and a couple of connectors are very difficult to spot. I don't see any need to remove the antennas and the speakers though, they are not really an obstacle to remove the board and can be left in place. The lightning connector is secured in place by two other two horizontal screws which are not shown in the guide.

Thanks again !

Arbaman - Reply

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds. Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than 30 seconds. Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than 30 seconds.

  • Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

  • Finally, move the iOpener to the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.

  • The iOpener may cool significantly between sittings—if it does, reheat for another 30 seconds between each position.

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Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals. Insert a plastic card under the lower battery cell, at the lower right-hand corner. If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.
  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Insert a plastic card under the lower battery cell, at the lower right-hand corner.

  • If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

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With the card roughly halfway inserted, slide it toward the top of the iPad, stopping before the battery contact post. With the card roughly halfway inserted, slide it toward the top of the iPad, stopping before the battery contact post. With the card roughly halfway inserted, slide it toward the top of the iPad, stopping before the battery contact post.
  • With the card roughly halfway inserted, slide it toward the top of the iPad, stopping before the battery contact post.

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Lift the card up from the rear case slightly to allow it to pass over the battery contact mounting post. Slide the card from the center of the battery cells to the upper right corner of the battery. Slide the card from the center of the battery cells to the upper right corner of the battery.
  • Lift the card up from the rear case slightly to allow it to pass over the battery contact mounting post.

  • Slide the card from the center of the battery cells to the upper right corner of the battery.

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Place a second plastic card about halfway under the left hand battery cell to prevent it from readhering when you reapply the iOpener. Place a second plastic card about halfway under the left hand battery cell to prevent it from readhering when you reapply the iOpener.
  • Place a second plastic card about halfway under the left hand battery cell to prevent it from readhering when you reapply the iOpener.

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Place an iOpener on the right side of the battery, opposite the cards, to loosen the adhesive.
  • Place an iOpener on the right side of the battery, opposite the cards, to loosen the adhesive.

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Slide the card around the lower right corner of the battery. Slide the card around the lower right corner of the battery. Slide the card around the lower right corner of the battery.
  • Slide the card around the lower right corner of the battery.

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Slide the plastic card to the lower left corner of the battery. Slide the plastic card to the lower left corner of the battery.
  • Slide the plastic card to the lower left corner of the battery.

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Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can. Place the plastic card underneath the lower left corner of the battery. Place the plastic card underneath the lower left corner of the battery.
  • Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

  • Place the plastic card underneath the lower left corner of the battery.

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Slide the card around the upper right corner of the battery. Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them. Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.
  • Slide the card around the upper right corner of the battery.

  • Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.

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Slide the plastic card to the upper left corner of the battery. Be careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them. Be careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.
  • Slide the plastic card to the upper left corner of the battery.

  • Be careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.

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Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can. Place the plastic card underneath the upper left corner of the battery. Place the plastic card underneath the upper left corner of the battery.
  • Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

  • Place the plastic card underneath the upper left corner of the battery.

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Grip both cards firmly and twist them to lift the battery off of the rear case. Remove the battery from the rear case. Remove the battery from the rear case.
  • Grip both cards firmly and twist them to lift the battery off of the rear case.

  • Remove the battery from the rear case.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently lift the front-facing camera housing up and out of the case. Depending on how you performed the digitizer removal, this component may be adhered to the inside of the iPad's front panel. Depending on how you performed the digitizer removal, this component may be adhered to the inside of the iPad's front panel.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently lift the front-facing camera housing up and out of the case.

    • Depending on how you performed the digitizer removal, this component may be adhered to the inside of the iPad's front panel.

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Slide a spudger under the front-facing camera to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Remove the front-facing camera from the iPad. Remove the front-facing camera from the iPad.
  • Slide a spudger under the front-facing camera to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

  • Remove the front-facing camera from the iPad.

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Lift the tape covering the headphone jack cable toward the top of the iPad to free the cable for removal. Lift the tape covering the headphone jack cable toward the top of the iPad to free the cable for removal.
  • Lift the tape covering the headphone jack cable toward the top of the iPad to free the cable for removal.

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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack cable to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack cable to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
  • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack cable to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

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Continue to slide the spudger under the end of the headphone jack cable to remove the last of the adhesive. Continue to slide the spudger under the end of the headphone jack cable to remove the last of the adhesive.
  • Continue to slide the spudger under the end of the headphone jack cable to remove the last of the adhesive.

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Remove the single 4.3 mm Phillips #000 screw from the headphone jack.
  • Remove the single 4.3 mm Phillips #000 screw from the headphone jack.

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Use the headphone jack cable to gently remove the headphone jack from its recess in the case. Use the headphone jack cable to gently remove the headphone jack from its recess in the case.
  • Use the headphone jack cable to gently remove the headphone jack from its recess in the case.

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Slide a plastic opening tool under the rear-facing camera, and pry upward to free it from the adhesive and two small pegs securing it to the rear case. Newer iPad units will not have a peg to align with the camera unit. Rather the camera should sit in a shallow recess. Remove the rear-facing camera.
  • Slide a plastic opening tool under the rear-facing camera, and pry upward to free it from the adhesive and two small pegs securing it to the rear case.

    • Newer iPad units will not have a peg to align with the camera unit. Rather the camera should sit in a shallow recess.

  • Remove the rear-facing camera.

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Place the top portion of the iPad on a reheated iOpener.
  • Place the top portion of the iPad on a reheated iOpener.

    • This will soften the adhesive holding the microphone assembly to the case.

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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the case and the microphone cable. Carefully scrape the lower portion of the microphone cable off of the case. Carefully scrape the lower portion of the microphone cable off of the case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the case and the microphone cable.

  • Carefully scrape the lower portion of the microphone cable off of the case.

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Use the point of a spudger to pry the delicate upper portion of the microphone cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case. Remove the dual microphone assembly from the iPad. Remove the dual microphone assembly from the iPad.
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the delicate upper portion of the microphone cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

  • Remove the dual microphone assembly from the iPad.

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Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws from the power button cable bracket.
  • Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws from the power button cable bracket.

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Carefully insert an opening pick between the power button ribbon cable and the edge of the case. Slide the pick along the length of the cable, stopping at the corner of the case.
  • Carefully insert an opening pick between the power button ribbon cable and the edge of the case.

  • Slide the pick along the length of the cable, stopping at the corner of the case.

  • Go slowly and carefully—if you slip, you could cut the ribbon cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to push the power button into the rear case from the outside. Use the tip of a spudger to push the power button into the rear case from the outside.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the power button into the rear case from the outside.

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With the power button cable bracket loosened, peel it off of the rear case with a set of tweezers and move it out of the way. Do not attempt to remove the power button cable bracket or cable from the iPad, as it is still attached to the rest of the button cable assembly.
  • With the power button cable bracket loosened, peel it off of the rear case with a set of tweezers and move it out of the way.

    • Do not attempt to remove the power button cable bracket or cable from the iPad, as it is still attached to the rest of the button cable assembly.

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Push the power button into the case and remove it from the iPad.
  • Push the power button into the case and remove it from the iPad.

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Remove the three 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws from the button cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws from the button cable bracket.

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Place a heated iOpener on the upper left corner of the rear case to loosen the button bracket's adhesive.
  • Place a heated iOpener on the upper left corner of the rear case to loosen the button bracket's adhesive.

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Insert an opening pick under the far right corner of the button bracket, between it and the rear case. Slide the pick around the corner to loosen the adhesive—but do not cut any further, or you may damage the button cables.
  • Insert an opening pick under the far right corner of the button bracket, between it and the rear case.

  • Slide the pick around the corner to loosen the adhesive—but do not cut any further, or you may damage the button cables.

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry in the gap made by the opening pick, lifting the bracket off of the adhesive. Use the tip of a spudger to pry in the gap made by the opening pick, lifting the bracket off of the adhesive.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry in the gap made by the opening pick, lifting the bracket off of the adhesive.

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With a set of tweezers flip the front end of the button bracket up to allow access to the rest of the button ribbon cable. Do not remove the bracket entirely—it is still attached to the ribbon cable. Be very careful in moving the bracket, or you may tear the fine offshoots of the ribbon cable.
  • With a set of tweezers flip the front end of the button bracket up to allow access to the rest of the button ribbon cable.

  • Do not remove the bracket entirely—it is still attached to the ribbon cable. Be very careful in moving the bracket, or you may tear the fine offshoots of the ribbon cable.

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Gently lift the connector end of the cable slightly off the rear case. Be very careful not to sever the small offshoot cables leading to the volume buttons.
  • Gently lift the connector end of the cable slightly off the rear case.

  • Be very careful not to sever the small offshoot cables leading to the volume buttons.

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