Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

Use this guide to remove the logic board and strip it of all its peripherals: SSD, AirPort, heat sink and CPU, and RAM.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Reply

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Reply

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

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Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

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Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

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Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Reply

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Reply

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
  • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

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Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
  • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

  • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

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Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
  • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
  • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

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Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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Insert the card back into the top left corner. Insert the card back into the top left corner.
  • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

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Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables. With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
  • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

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While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Reply

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Disconnect the display data cable. This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Reply

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Reply

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Reply

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Reply

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Reply

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Reply

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Reply

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Reply

Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

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  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

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Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket. De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.
  • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

  • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

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Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Reply

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Reply

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Reply

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5"). Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").
  • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

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Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
  • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

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Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker. Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
  • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Reply

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
  • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

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Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
  • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Reply

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Reply

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together. Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left. Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
  • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

  • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

  • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

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Remove the left hard drive bracket. Remove the left hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

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When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - Reply

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - Reply

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - Reply

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:
  • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws.

    • Two 7.3 mm T10 screws.

In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

Morgan Crossley - Reply

Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

smudge -

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
  • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

  • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

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Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board. Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - Reply

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - Reply

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector. Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

  • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - Reply

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

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Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board. Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.
  • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

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Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.
  • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

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Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly. Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.
  • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

  • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

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Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.
  • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

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Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
  • Remove the fan from the iMac.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order: Leftmost
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

    • Leftmost

    • Top

    • Upper right

    • Lower right

My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

Greg Freeman - Reply

This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken. Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable. Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

Tony Ross - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Gently push the cable out of the way. Gently push the cable out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently push the cable out of the way.

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Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board: Two 23.7 mm T10 screws
  • Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws

    • Four 7.4 mm T10 screws

    • One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw

    • One captive T10 screw

      • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

MrSchaeffer - Reply

The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.
  • The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

  • Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

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Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.
  • Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

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Tilt the logic board slightly forward. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.
  • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

  • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

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When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws. You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
  • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

  • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

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Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it. Unplug the SATA data cable connector by lifting it up. Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.
  • Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it.

  • Unplug the SATA data cable connector by lifting it up.

  • Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.

Where is this cable sold

mert - Reply

Remove the four 7.5 mm T9 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board. These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T9 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver. These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T9 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.
  • Remove the four 7.5 mm T9 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board.

  • These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T9 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.

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Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.
  • Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.

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Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.
  • Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.

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Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.
  • Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.

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Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink. Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board. Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.
  • Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink.

  • Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.

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Lift the heat sink up from the logic board. The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down. The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.
  • Lift the heat sink up from the logic board.

  • The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.

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The RAM tray is locked into its closed position with two grey tabs. Use your thumbs or index fingers to unlock the tray by pushing the tabs outward, away from the RAM. Pull the tabs out and up, swinging the RAM tray up to a near-vertical position.
  • The RAM tray is locked into its closed position with two grey tabs.

  • Use your thumbs or index fingers to unlock the tray by pushing the tabs outward, away from the RAM.

  • Pull the tabs out and up, swinging the RAM tray up to a near-vertical position.

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Remove a stick of RAM by grabbing it with two hands and pulling straight out of the RAM tray. Remove any remaining sticks of RAM. RAM modules are keyed, so that they can only be installed in the proper orientation. Ensure that the RAM module's notch lines up with the socket's notch when installing new modules.
  • Remove a stick of RAM by grabbing it with two hands and pulling straight out of the RAM tray.

  • Remove any remaining sticks of RAM.

  • RAM modules are keyed, so that they can only be installed in the proper orientation. Ensure that the RAM module's notch lines up with the socket's notch when installing new modules.

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Remove two 3.7 mm T5 screws from the back of the logic board.
  • Remove two 3.7 mm T5 screws from the back of the logic board.

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To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card excessively. Lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card excessively.

  • Lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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Remove the single 5.3 mm T9 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 5.3 mm T9 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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Remove the power supply cable from its connector by pulling it parallel to the logic board. Remove the power supply cable from its connector by pulling it parallel to the logic board.
  • Remove the power supply cable from its connector by pulling it parallel to the logic board.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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5 Comments

HI!

I have a IMac 27"(late 2012) that does not start with power Button! But it starts up "automatically" by connecting automatically programming scheduled through "System Preferences"!

So I wonder if this is a defect of the Power Button, or if it is a defect in the Power Supply, logic Board...

Thanks!

Jairo

jairocsa - Reply

Question!

The logic board in my iMac 27" 13, 2 (2546) late 2012 needs to be replaced. Will the logic board from the 27" 14,2 (2639) late 2013 match and fit inside the 27" 13,2 late 2012 housing?

I've looked all over and have yet to find an straight answer. Thanks in advance!!!

dcaulder1231 - Reply

I'm in exactly the same boat - can I use the logic board from the next year's model? (I would assume that it wouldn't be a problem since it will physically fit in place). The bigger question is if I can I use my old 3.4 GHz i7 CPU in the newer logic board (that too should work, but...)

Does anybody have the part numbers for the logic boards for this machine (EMC2546) or the late 2013 iMac (EMC2639)? Thanks.

Miles Muri -

part nr for the 2012 model is 820-3298-A. Part nr for 2013 model is 820-3481-A. CPU's are NOT compatible due to different sockets (1155 vs 1150).

Fixandinstall -

Thanks Miles Muri for asking that question, we know now that the CPU's can NOT be swapped due to the different sockets. Back to my original question...does anyone know if the logic board from the 27" 14,2 (2639) late 2013 match and fit inside the 27" 13,2 late 2012 housing?

The dimensions seem similar enough, but i've read that it's the placment of the USB, etc ports that don't exactly line up and prevents this from being a perfect fit. Thanks in advance!!!

dcaulder1231 -

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