Introduction

Follow this guide to learn how to replace the screen and the front plastic frame on your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge. This guide will show you how to remove all the components from the frame, which includes the digitizer, OLED display, display frame, and home button.

Use this guide if you are replacing the display assembly and front plastic frame together. If your replacement part does not come with a plastic frame, follow this guide instead.

This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

If your replacement part looks like the first image, follow the display assembly and frame replacement guide.

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Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.
  • Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.

    • Do not insert the tool into the microphone hole or you could cause damage. Look for the outline of the SIM tray.

  • Press to eject the SIM card tray.

  • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

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Lovely Khan - Reply

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Reply

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Reply

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Reply

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Reply

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Reply

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - Reply

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Reply

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Reply

  • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

  • If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.

  • Lay the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  • Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.

  • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

Brotan Store - Reply

There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

John Joiner -

the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

get it fixed - Reply

After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

Jae Chung - Reply

I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

ken - Reply

  • Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge of the glass.

  • Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

  • Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.

If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

dougpender - Reply

Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

Jessie Brooks -

  • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.

  • Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the rear glass as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.

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  • Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

  • Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

Wayne Lyell - Reply

  • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

  • Remove the rear glass.

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  • Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from both the rear glass and the phone's chassis.

  • Then, clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

  • Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

Sean Cruz - Reply

  • Remove the thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the midframe.

Do yall sell the screws and the screw organization mat

The lit asf Channel - Reply

  • Press down on the back of the battery and lift up on the edges of the midframe to separate it from the rest of the phone.

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  • Using the flat end of the spudger, disconnect the battery ribbon cable from the motherboard.

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  • Disconnect the home button ribbon cable from the motherboard.

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  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard.

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  • Disconnect the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of the spudger.

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  • Disconnect the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard.

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  • The motherboard is an ESD sensitive component and should be handled with care. iFixit recommends using a anti-static bracelet whenever handling components of this nature to avoid damage.

  • Grip the motherboard on both edges toward the top of the device.

  • Do not lift the motherboard all the way out in this step; the ribbon cable on the underside needs to be disconnected first.

  • Lift the motherboard up and away from the display, taking care not to put too much stress on the daughterboard ribbon cable.

Better to remove the antenna connector from daughter board and keep the connector on main board, as You will planning to remove it you will need to take from it anyway.

Gabriel Pinho - Reply

  • Disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable from the underside of the motherboard.

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  • Insert an opening pick underneath the battery and slide it across to break up the adhesive underneath.

  • Try your best not to deform the battery while prying. Soft-shell lithium-ion batteries can leak dangerous chemicals, catch fire, or even explode if damaged. Do not use excessive force or pry at the battery with metal tools.

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  • Twist the opening pick to fully dislodge the battery and remove it.

  • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

  • To install a new battery:

    • Remove any remaining adhesive from the phone, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.

    • Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the phone, not directly onto the battery. The adhesive should go around the perimeter of the battery compartment, but not in the rectangular cutout in the center (which is actually the back side of the display).

    • Press the battery firmly into place for 5-10 seconds.

Hi Sam, in conclusion and reassembling is the heat pad (used at the appropriate step in reverse) sufficient to re-adhere the panels or should new adhesive be applied. If new adhesive is required, can you recommend a satisfactory product please.

Cheers

Warren

Warren Redding - Reply

You should apply new adhesive when reinstalling your rear panel. You can use this 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape that we sell, or look around online for adhesive tape cut specifically for your phone.

Evan Noronha -

  • Remove the two 2.5mm Phillips #00 screws.

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  • Using the pointed end of spudger, pry up the small section of daughterboard secured with a light adhesive.

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  • Lift the daughterboard up and away from the body of the phone to remove it.

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  • Press the tip of a spudger in the gap in the display frame under the vibrator, to pry it off the adhesive.

  • Remove the vibrator from the display assembly.

  • Compare your replacement part to the display assembly that remains, you may need to transfer additional components such as the display frame or home button.

Forgot to mention removing the ear speaker.

Ralph G Harris - Reply

If your replacement part doesn’t come with an earpiece speaker, follow this earpiece speaker guide to remove it!

Sam Lionheart -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

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Sam Lionheart

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4 Comments

Would it be possible to point out which connectors are for the LCD/touch screen, as my screen is not broken but part of the my touch screen will not work and I would like to check the connector is applied properly. Also would it be possible to purchase that suction cup somewhere?

Nina Borseth - Reply

It does not seem as though steps #25, #26, and #27 are necessary for this specific project: Display Assembly Replacement. Otherwise an excellent guide!

Liam K - Reply

You are right! The guide has been re-organized to leave those steps out now.

Arthur Shi -

Does anybody know if there is actually any difference between the CDMA and GSM screens? I got a galaxy s6 edge with a broken screen, and the back said verizon, but when I opened it up, the charging port flex cable said, SM-G925A, which is the AT&T version right? I have a working screen I took off of a working verizon phone, but it doesn’t work on the ATT phone. I’m not sure if its that the motherboard is damaged, or if the Verizon screen won’t work on the AT&T phone.

Reed Deemer - Reply

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