Introduction
Follow this guide to learn how to replace the screen and the front plastic frame on your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge. This guide will show you how to remove all the components from the frame, which includes the digitizer, OLED display, display frame, and home button.
Use this guide if you are replacing the display assembly and front plastic frame together. If your replacement part does not come with a plastic frame, follow this guide instead.
This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.
Tools
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If your replacement part looks like the first image, follow the display assembly and frame replacement guide.
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If your replacement part looks like the second image, follow the display assembly replacement guide.
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Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.
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Press to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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Lay the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.
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Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.
are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?
There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.
the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure
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Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge of the glass.
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Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap.
If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.
I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.
Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!
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Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.
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Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.
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Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel
I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.
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Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.
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Remove the rear glass.
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Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from both the rear glass and the phone's chassis.
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Then, clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.
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Remove the thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the midframe.
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Press down on the back of the battery and lift up on the edges of the midframe to separate it from the rest of the phone.
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Using the flat end of the spudger, disconnect the battery ribbon cable from the motherboard.
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Disconnect the home button ribbon cable from the motherboard.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard.
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Disconnect the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of the spudger.
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Disconnect the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard.
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Grip the motherboard on both edges toward the top of the device.
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Lift the motherboard up and away from the display, taking care not to put too much stress on the daughterboard ribbon cable.
Better to remove the antenna connector from daughter board and keep the connector on main board, as You will planning to remove it you will need to take from it anyway.
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Disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable from the underside of the motherboard.
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Insert an opening pick underneath the battery and slide it across to break up the adhesive underneath.
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Twist the opening pick to fully dislodge the battery and remove it.
Hi Sam, in conclusion and reassembling is the heat pad (used at the appropriate step in reverse) sufficient to re-adhere the panels or should new adhesive be applied. If new adhesive is required, can you recommend a satisfactory product please.
Cheers
Warren
You should apply new adhesive when reinstalling your rear panel. You can use this 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape that we sell, or look around online for adhesive tape cut specifically for your phone.
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Remove the two 2.5mm Phillips #00 screws.
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Using the pointed end of spudger, pry up the small section of daughterboard secured with a light adhesive.
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Lift the daughterboard up and away from the body of the phone to remove it.
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Press the tip of a spudger in the gap in the display frame under the vibrator, to pry it off the adhesive.
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Remove the vibrator from the display assembly.
Forgot to mention removing the ear speaker.
If your replacement part doesn’t come with an earpiece speaker, follow this earpiece speaker guide to remove it!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.
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4 Comments
Would it be possible to point out which connectors are for the LCD/touch screen, as my screen is not broken but part of the my touch screen will not work and I would like to check the connector is applied properly. Also would it be possible to purchase that suction cup somewhere?
It does not seem as though steps #25, #26, and #27 are necessary for this specific project: Display Assembly Replacement. Otherwise an excellent guide!
You are right! The guide has been re-organized to leave those steps out now.
Does anybody know if there is actually any difference between the CDMA and GSM screens? I got a galaxy s6 edge with a broken screen, and the back said verizon, but when I opened it up, the charging port flex cable said, SM-G925A, which is the AT&T version right? I have a working screen I took off of a working verizon phone, but it doesn’t work on the ATT phone. I’m not sure if its that the motherboard is damaged, or if the Verizon screen won’t work on the AT&T phone.
