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Right Hinge Removal

Prerequisite Only
This is a prerequisite-only guide! This guide is part of another procedure and isn’t meant to be used alone.

What you need

    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the right earpad: step 1, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the right earpad: step 1, image 2 of 2
      • The earpads are secured with magnets

      • Lift the right earpad (labeled R) straight up and remove it.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the right ear cup: step 2, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the right ear cup: step 2, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the right ear cup: step 2, image 3 of 3
      • Removing the ear cup isn’t required, but can make the repair easier. You can leave the cup attached and remove it later if needed.

      • Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a small, straightened paperclip into the hole on the top edge of the right ear cup (labeled R).

      • Push down with your tool and pull the headband connector straight out of its socket.

      • The headband connector should slide out easily. If you're having trouble, reposition the tool and try again—you may need to angle the bit slightly.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Set the right ear cup down: step 3, image 1 of 1
      • Set the right ear cup down on a soft, clean cloth to prevent scratches and help stabilize the cup during your repair.

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    2. Right Hinge Removal, Turn the housing screws to the open position: step 4, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Turn the housing screws to the open position: step 4, image 2 of 2
      • Turn these screws slowly and gently, stopping when you feel resistance—about 1/4 turn. If turned too far, the locking mechanism will break.

      • Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn (not remove) the four speaker housing screws to the unlocked position:

      • Turn the top left and bottom right screws counterclockwise.

      • Turn the top right and bottom left screws clockwise.

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    3. Right Hinge Removal, Soften the speaker housing adhesive: step 5, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Soften the speaker housing adhesive: step 5, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Soften the speaker housing adhesive: step 5, image 3 of 3
      Tool used on this step:
      iOpener
      $14.95
      Buy
      • The perimeter of the speaker housing is secured to the cup with adhesive. This step shows a few methods to soften the adhesive so you can pry up the housing. If one isn't working, try a different method.

      • Option 1: Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) in the gap around the perimeter of the speaker housing. Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

      • Option 2: Heat the speaker housing with an iOpener or hair dryer. Focus the heat around the perimeter, applying small amounts for short periods of time.

      • Don't heat the center of the speaker housing, or you'll damage the fragile mesh under the speaker cutouts and possibly the speaker.

      • For a detailed look at best practices for using a hair dryer, check out this guide.

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    4. Right Hinge Removal, Pry up the speaker housing: step 6, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Pry up the speaker housing: step 6, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Pry up the speaker housing: step 6, image 3 of 3
      Tool used on this step:
      iSesamo Opening Tool
      $10.99
      Buy
      • The gap between the speaker housing and ear cup is extremely small. You'll need a thin tool such as a metal opening pick, iSesamo, or iFlex to pry up the housing.

      • Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges—they're sharp and may cut you. Consider wearing gloves to protect yourself.

      • Insert the flat side of your opening tool into the gap between the left side of the speaker housing and the lip of the ear cup (opposite the R marking).

      • Pry up the speaker housing until you can grip it with your fingers, applying constant pressure to allow the adhesive to separate.

      • If the housing isn't coming up, repeat the previous step and try again. Don't try and force the housing out or you may damage it.

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    5. Right Hinge Removal: step 7, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 7, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 7, image 3 of 3
      • Don't try to fully remove the speaker housing yet—a delicate ribbon cable still connects it to the ear cup.

      • Lift the speaker housing out of the ear cup to fully separate the remaining adhesive.

      • Flip the housing over the side of the cup and prop it up so you can access the cable.

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    6. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker housing cable cover: step 8, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker housing cable cover: step 8, image 2 of 2
      Tool used on this step:
      FixMat
      $36.95
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      • Don’t let any screws snap onto the speaker driver diaphragm or they'll damage it. The screws will be drawn towards the center by the speaker's magnet.

      • Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm‑long screw securing the speaker housing cable cover.

      • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

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    7. Right Hinge Removal: step 9, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal: step 9, image 2 of 2
      • Use tweezers to remove the cover.

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    8. Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the speaker housing: step 10, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the speaker housing: step 10, image 2 of 2
      • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker housing press connector.

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    9. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker housing: step 11, image 1 of 1
      • Remove the speaker housing.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver screws: step 12, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver screws: step 12, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver screws: step 12, image 3 of 3
      • Grip the screws with tweezers while loosening and removing them. Don’t let the screws snap onto the diaphragm.

      • Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove three speaker driver screws:

      • Two 6.0 mm‑long screws

      • One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two

      • Remove the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using one of the two methods below:

      • Apply constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.

      • Option 1: Stick a small flathead screwdriver into one of the four notches on top of the screw and use it to slowly turn the screw.

      • Option 2: Use a Torq-Set 6 screwdriver to remove the screw, applying constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.

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    2. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver: step 13, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver: step 13, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the speaker driver: step 13, image 3 of 3
      • Lift the top edge of the speaker and remove it, being careful not to touch the diaphragm.

      • If you're having trouble, use the point of a spudger to start lifting the speaker.

      • Set the speaker aside in a place where it won't attract small metal objects.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery connector cover: step 14, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery connector cover: step 14, image 2 of 2
      • Remove the two connector cover screws:

      • One 7.0 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

      • You may need tweezers to remove this screw.

      • One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw

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    2. Right Hinge Removal: step 15, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 15, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 15, image 3 of 3
      • Two tabs slot into place and secure the cover.

      • Slide the cover out of the slots and remove it.

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    3. Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the battery: step 16, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the battery: step 16, image 2 of 2
      • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector (the smaller one, not the one that folds under the board).

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    4. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery screws: step 17, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery screws: step 17, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery screws: step 17, image 3 of 3
      Tool used on this step:
      Flexible Extension
      $6.99
      Buy
      • Use a Torx Plus 5IP screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the sides of the battery cells.

      • Depending on your screwdriver, you may need to use a flexible extension to get a proper fit in the screw.

      • If the screw isn't coming out once fully loosened, use tweezers to pull it out.

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    5. Right Hinge Removal: step 18, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 18, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal: step 18, image 3 of 3
      • Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cells:

      • Two 4.0 mm‑long screws

      • One 7.0 mm‑long screw

      • Make sure you remove the correct screw (which goes through the board), and not the one just to the left of it.

      • You may need to use tweezers to remove this screw.

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    6. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery: step 19, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery: step 19, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the battery: step 19, image 3 of 3
      • Slide the battery cells out of their recesses one at a time and remove them.

      • If either of the battery cells are swollen, take appropriate precautions.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board connector cover: step 20, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board connector cover: step 20, image 2 of 2
      • Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the two 1.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board connectors cover.

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    2. Right Hinge Removal: step 21, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal: step 21, image 2 of 2
      • Use tweezers to remove the cover.

      • The cover may be lightly secured with adhesive.

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    3. Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 22, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 22, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 22, image 3 of 3
      • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors on the power board.

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    4. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board screws: step 23, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board screws: step 23, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board screws: step 23, image 3 of 3
      • Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board.

      • Make sure not to lose the small rubber gasket on the screws.

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    5. Right Hinge Removal, Reposition the power board: step 24, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Reposition the power board: step 24, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Reposition the power board: step 24, image 3 of 3
      • Be careful not to grip any of the small, surface-mounted components on the power board.

      • Slowly pull the power board out of its recess and flip it over the side of the ear cup, giving you access to the connector on the underside.

      • Make sure the cables that connect to the board don't get snagged.

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    6. Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 25, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 25, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the power board: step 25, image 3 of 3
      • Disconnecting the power board cable is tricky and may take a few tries. Don't try to disconnect it by pulling on the cable, or you may cause damage.

      • Use the point of a spudger to press on alternating sides of the sliding connector tabs to "walk" it out of the socket.

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    7. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the power board: step 26, image 1 of 1
      • Remove the power board.

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    1. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the connector cover screws: step 27, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the connector cover screws: step 27, image 2 of 2
      • Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the two 1.7 mm‑long screws securing the connector cover.

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    2. Right Hinge Removal, Lift the connector cover: step 28, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Lift the connector cover: step 28, image 2 of 2
      • The other end of the cover is plastic-riveted into place. Unless you're comfortable soldering off the rivets, this requires you to bend the cover.

      • Use your finger to lift and bend the cover enough that you can access the smaller connector near the back of the cover.

      • Only bend the cover enough to reach the connector. The more you bend it, the harder it will be to push back into place during reassembly.

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    3. Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the hinge: step 29, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Disconnect the hinge: step 29, image 2 of 2
      • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the hinge press connector (the smaller one, whose cable runs back towards the hinge).

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    4. Right Hinge Removal, Unclip the hinge cable: step 30, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Unclip the hinge cable: step 30, image 2 of 2
      • Use your fingers to gently pull the copper hinge cable (in plastic tubing) out of its clip.

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    5. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the hinge screws: step 31, image 1 of 2 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the hinge screws: step 31, image 2 of 2
      • Use a Torx Plus 5IP screwdriver to remove the four 5.3 mm‑long screws securing the hinge.

      • You may need to use a flexible extension for these screws.

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    6. Right Hinge Removal, Remove the hinge: step 32, image 1 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the hinge: step 32, image 2 of 3 Right Hinge Removal, Remove the hinge: step 32, image 3 of 3
      • Slide the point of a spudger into one of the hinge's lower screw holes.

      • Use the spudger to rotate the bottom edge of the hinge upwards to free the hinge.

      • This is tricky, as the hinge fits tightly in its recess. If you're having trouble, gently wiggle the hinge while rotating it.

      • Remove the hinge.

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Finish Line

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Spencer Day

Member since: 09/14/22

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