What you need
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a small, straightened paperclip into the hole on the top edge of the right ear cup (labeled R).
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Push down with your tool and pull the headband connector straight out of its socket.
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Set the right ear cup down on a soft, clean cloth to prevent scratches and help stabilize the cup during your repair.
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Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn (not remove) the four speaker housing screws to the unlocked position:
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Turn the top left and bottom right screws counterclockwise.
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Turn the top right and bottom left screws clockwise.
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Tool used on this step:iOpener$14.95
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Option 1: Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) in the gap around the perimeter of the speaker housing. Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.
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Option 2: Heat the speaker housing with an iOpener or hair dryer. Focus the heat around the perimeter, applying small amounts for short periods of time.
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Tool used on this step:iSesamo Opening Tool$10.99
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Insert the flat side of your opening tool into the gap between the left side of the speaker housing and the lip of the ear cup (opposite the R marking).
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Pry up the speaker housing until you can grip it with your fingers, applying constant pressure to allow the adhesive to separate.
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Tool used on this step:FixMat$36.95
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Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm‑long screw securing the speaker housing cable cover.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker housing press connector.
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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove three speaker driver screws:
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Two 6.0 mm‑long screws
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One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two
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Remove the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using one of the two methods below:
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Option 1: Stick a small flathead screwdriver into one of the four notches on top of the screw and use it to slowly turn the screw.
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Option 2: Use a Torq-Set 6 screwdriver to remove the screw, applying constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.
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Lift the top edge of the speaker and remove it, being careful not to touch the diaphragm.
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Remove the two connector cover screws:
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One 7.0 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw
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One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector (the smaller one, not the one that folds under the board).
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Tool used on this step:Flexible Extension$6.99
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Use a Torx Plus 5IP screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the sides of the battery cells.
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If the screw isn't coming out once fully loosened, use tweezers to pull it out.
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Slide the battery cells out of their recesses one at a time and remove them.
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Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the two 1.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board connectors cover.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors on the power board.
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Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board.
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Slowly pull the power board out of its recess and flip it over the side of the ear cup, giving you access to the connector on the underside.
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Use the point of a spudger to press on alternating sides of the sliding connector tabs to "walk" it out of the socket.
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Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the two 1.7 mm‑long screws securing the connector cover.
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The other end of the cover is plastic-riveted into place. Unless you're comfortable soldering off the rivets, this requires you to bend the cover.
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Use your finger to lift and bend the cover enough that you can access the smaller connector near the back of the cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the hinge press connector (the smaller one, whose cable runs back towards the hinge).
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Use your fingers to gently pull the copper hinge cable (in plastic tubing) out of its clip.
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Use a Torx Plus 5IP screwdriver to remove the four 5.3 mm‑long screws securing the hinge.
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Slide the point of a spudger into one of the hinge's lower screw holes.
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Use the spudger to rotate the bottom edge of the hinge upwards to free the hinge.
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Remove the hinge.
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