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Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a cracked or damaged rear panel on the Nintendo Switch.

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Reply

    I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

    Joe -

    My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

    nin10doh - Reply

    I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

    Banjomanperson - Reply

    I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

    Pifase -

  3. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: step 4, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Reply

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Reply

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Reply

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Reply

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Reply

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee - Reply

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre - Reply

    PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

    Shawn Spivey - Reply

    One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

    Florian Kraupa - Reply

    Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

    Jason Lane - Reply

  4. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Reply

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Reply

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Reply

    One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

    Nick - Reply

  5. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Rear Panel Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Reply

    This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

    Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    David - Reply

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

58 other people completed this guide.

Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

25,337 Reputation

82 Guides authored

8 Comments

Excellent and concise guide.

The new panel doesn’t come with the sticky grille pieces x 2 on the bottom. Is it supposed to be a straight transfer between the old and the new?

fclbriat123 - Reply

Just did this replacement and there are a few things to keep in mind that this review does not mention. There are x2 square foam pieces that can be transferred to the new panel located at the bottom backside of the old. Also, the game cartridge shield hardware and the kickstand holder hardware have to be taken off the back of the old panel and transferred to the new panel. The kickstand has 2 Phillips #000 screws and the game cartridge shield has 1 Phillips #000 screw

Ryan Talbert - Reply

How do you transfer the foam pieces? Use some heat to loosen their adhesive and then remove them and transfer over the new backplate?

John - Reply

Is the casing the same between the HAC model and the HAD model? This guide doesn’t specify

Julian Webb - Reply

I am using iFixit Pro tool kit. What to do if one of the 000 screw’s cap appears to be stripped off? How to extract it if perchance?

Dr.Genuks - Reply

I had trouble removing the outermost screws, I think they’re actually Y00 as opposed to Y00. Not sure if I’m the only one who’s had an easier time with Y000, if they are I’ll update the wiki

Esme Xuan Lim - Reply

I can’t take out the back screws of my switch with y00 ?

V W - Reply

Detailed guides like this are so helpful!

Swapped the backplates in less than 20 minutes with no issues. I recommend that you press on the screw firmly and turn slowly. Do this and check as you turn and you shouldn't strip any screws.

Yakarot Sennin - Reply

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